Reference:explorer-ii
Rolex Explorer II
The Explorer II launched in 1971 as the sister reference to the Explorer I. Where the Explorer I was a simple three-hand time-only watch built for mountain expeditions, the Explorer II added a fixed 24-hour bezel and an orange 24-hour hand for speleologists, polar expeditioners, and anyone operating in conditions where ambient light could not be trusted to tell day from night. The 24-hour complication is what separates the line from its Explorer I sibling, and every Explorer II from 1971 to the present has retained it.
The line runs across five references in total. The 1655 Freccione is the original, with a linked-hand caliber 1575 that reads the 24-hour function as a day-night indicator. The 16550 introduced a true independent-hour GMT function on caliber 3085 in 1985. The 16570 took that architecture through a twenty-one-year run from 1989 to 2010. The 42mm 216570 arrived in 2011 and reintroduced the orange 24-hour hand of the 1655 on a modern ceramic-free case. The current 226570 replaced it in 2021.
The first Explorer II (1971–1984)
| Reference | Production | Movement | Case | Key distinction |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1655 | 1971–1984 | Cal. 1575 GMT | 40mm SS, acrylic | Freccione orange straight/lollipop hand; 5 Mark dials + 2 service dials; linked-hand 24-hour; fixed engraved steel bezel |
The transitional reference (1985–1989)
| Reference | Production | Movement | Case | Key distinction |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16550 | 1985–1989 | Cal. 3085 | 40mm SS, sapphire | First sapphire; first independent-hour GMT; black or Polar white dial; cream/rail dial paint-defect variant |
The long-run modern reference (1989–2010)
| Reference | Production | Movement | Case | Key distinction |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 16570 | 1989–2010 | Cal. 3185, then 3186 late | 40mm SS, sapphire | Four internal versions: V1 tritium, V2 Swiss-only, V3 Super-LumiNova, V4 no-holes case plus cal 3186; black or Polar white; SRR military limited edition 2007 |
Current-production successors
The 42mm ceramic-era successors continue the line beyond the vintage and neo-vintage generations.
- 216570 (2011–2021) — 42mm case, cal. 3187, reintroduced orange 24-hour hand
- 226570 (2021–present) — cal. 3285, current production
Movement progression
| Caliber | Frequency | Power reserve | 24-hour function | Used in | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1575 GMT | 19,800 vph | ~48 hr | linked to hour hand | 1655 | Shared with GMT-Master 1675; 24-hour hand advances with hour hand, functions as day-night indicator |
| 3085 | 28,800 vph | 48 hr (disputed: some sources say 42 hr) | independent-hour | 16550 | First Explorer II with true GMT; shared with GMT-Master II 16760 "Fat Lady"; 6.3mm thick |
| 3185 | 28,800 vph | ~50 hr | independent-hour | 16570 | Successor to 3085 with minor revisions; ran through most of the 16570 |
| 3186 | 28,800 vph | ~50 hr | independent-hour | 16570 (late 2006+) | Added blue Parachrom hairspring; fixed the 3185 GMT-hand wobble |
Dial variant highlights
The Explorer II has a dense per-reference variant taxonomy that is worth scanning in aggregate:
- 1655 Mark dials — Mk1 (large crown), Mk2 (Frog Foot), Mk3 (Rail Dial), Mk4 (taller crown, T SWISS <25 T serif), Mk5 (sans-serif). Two Beyeler service dials also exist.
- 16550 cream / rail dial — a subset of Polar white dials aged to cream through a factory paint defect Rolex later corrected. Rail-dial sub-variant has the C of CHRONOMETER aligned vertically over the C of CERTIFIED.
- 16570 Swiss-only — approximately 5 percent of production, covering the 1998–1999 window when the dial carried Luminova lume but kept the older SWISS (not SWISS MADE) printing.
Cross-references
The Explorer II is the sibling of the Explorer I line and shares caliber and architectural DNA with the GMT-Master line. The caliber 1575 on the 1655 is identical to the caliber 1575 on the GMT-Master 1675, configured differently (linked-hand vs independent-hour). The caliber 3085 on the 16550 is identical to the caliber 3085 on the GMT-Master II 16760.
Sources
- In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Explorer II, The Ultimate Adventure Watch — Monochrome
- Tooled Up: The Rolex Explorer II Reference 1655 — Ross Povey, Revolution
- Mr Rolex Orange Hand, Reinhold Messner and Sir Edmund Hillary's Original Vintage Explorer II ref 1655 — Philipp Stahl, Rolex Passion Report
- Spelunking Into the Details: The Rolex Explorer II Reference 16550 — Tony Traina, European Watch Co.
- Buyer's Guide: Explorer II Ref. 16570, All Variations — Jorg Weppelink, Fratello
- The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655: A Complete Guide — Andrea David, Italian Watch Spotter
- Rolex Explorer II 16550 vs 16570 — Alessandro Metelli, Italian Watch Spotter
- Exceptional Movements In History: Rolex Caliber 1575 — Quill & Pad
- Rolex Caliber 3085 Complete Guide — Millenary Watches
- Collector Guide: The Rolex Explorer II — All References in Detail — Beyond The Dial
- The Vintage Rolex Field Manual — Morning Tundra