Reference:submariner
Rolex Submariner
The Submariner is Rolex's core dive watch and the reference that set the basic template for the category. Rolex introduced the first Submariner, the 6204, in 1953, and the line has stayed in continuous production ever since. The fast map is simple: early no-crown-guard watches in the 1950s, the long acrylic crown-guard era led by the 5512 and 5513, sapphire five-digit references from 1979, and ceramic six-digit references from 2010.
Early Submariner (1953–1959)
The experimental years before Rolex settled on what the Submariner would become. Crown sizes changed, depth ratings jumped from 100m to 200m, the hands shifted from pencil to Mercedes, and the dial moved between a clean face and an Explorer-style 3-6-9 layout.
| Reference | Production | Movement | Depth | Case | Key distinction |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 6204 | 1953–1954 | A260 | 100m | 36mm SS | First Submariner |
| 6205 | 1953–1954 | A296 | 100m | 36mm SS | Parallel early production; minor case/dial variations |
| 6200 | 1953–1954 | A296 | 200m | 36mm SS | "King Sub" — oversized 8mm crown, Explorer dial option |
| 6536 | 1954–1958 | A296/1030 | 100m | 36mm SS | Transitional; smaller crown, Mercedes hands |
| 6538 | 1957–1960 | 1030 | 200m | 38mm SS | James Bond Sub (Connery); large crown, no crown guards |
Crown-guard era (1958–1990)
The Submariner finds its lasting form. Crown guards arrive on the 5512 in 1959, and the era settles the chronometer and non-chronometer split while introducing the date complication on the 1680.
| Reference | Production | Movement | Type | Case | Key distinction |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| No-date | |||||
| 5508 | 1958–1962 | 1530 | No-date | 38mm SS | Last pre-crown-guard no-date |
| 5510 | 1958–1960 | 1530 | No-date | 38mm SS | Rare transitional; crown guard + no crown guard variants |
| 5512 | 1959–1980 | 1530/1560/1570 | No-date | 40mm SS | Chronometer; crown guards; gilt and matte eras; 17,338 units |
| 5513 | ~1962–1989 | 1520/1530 | No-date | 40mm SS | 27-year run; non-chronometer; gilt, matte, Bart Simpson variants |
| 5514 | 1960–1978 | 1520 | No-date | 40mm SS | COMEX; helium escape valve |
| 5517 | 1972–1979 | 1520 | No-date | 40mm SS | British Military; MOD markings, fixed spring bars |
| Date | |||||
| 1680 | 1969–1979 | 1575 | Date | 40mm SS | First date Sub; Red Sub (6 marks) and White Sub eras |
Five-digit era (1979–2010)
Sapphire crystal replaces acrylic, the movement line advances from 3035 to 3135, and the Submariner expands into two-tone and full-gold variants alongside the steel benchmark.
| Reference | Production | Movement | Type | Case | Key distinction |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| No-date (steel) | |||||
| 14060 | 1990–2000 | 3000 | No-date | 40mm SS | Sapphire crystal, caliber 3000 |
| 14060M | 2000–2012 | 3130 | No-date | 40mm SS | Superlative Chronometer certification |
| Date (steel) | |||||
| 16800 | 1979–1986 | 3035 | Date | 40mm SS | Transitional; first sapphire crystal Sub Date |
| 16610 | 1987–2010 | 3135 | Date | 40mm SS | 23-year benchmark; solid end links, Parachrom late |
| 16610LV | 2003–2010 | 3135 | Date | 40mm SS | "Kermit" — first green bezel, 50th anniversary |
| Date (precious metal) | |||||
| 16803 | 1984–1988 | 3035 | Date | 40mm SS/YG | Two-tone; blue or black dial |
| 16808 | 1984–1988 | 3035 | Date | 40mm YG | Full 18k yellow gold |
| 16613 | 1988–2010 | 3135 | Date | 40mm SS/YG | Two-tone successor to 16803 |
| 16618 | 1988–2010 | 3135 | Date | 40mm YG | Full gold successor to 16808 |
Six-digit era (2010–2020)
Cerachrom ceramic bezels, Glidelock micro-adjust bracelets, and, for the 126 series, the move from 40mm to 41mm. This is the Submariner at its most technically refined, though collectors still argue the five-digit era wears better.
| Reference | Production | Movement | Type | Case | Key distinction |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| No-date | |||||
| 114060 | 2012–2020 | 3130 | No-date | 40mm SS | "Last small Sub" — ceramic bezel, maxi dial |
| Date (steel) | |||||
| 116610LN | 2010–2020 | 3135 | Date | 40mm SS | Cerachrom bezel, Glidelock bracelet |
| 116610LV | 2010–2020 | 3135 | Date | 40mm SS | "Hulk" — green dial + green ceramic bezel |
| Date (precious metal) | |||||
| 116613 | 2010–2020 | 3135 | Date | 40mm SS/YG | Two-tone, Cerachrom |
| 116618 | 2010–2020 | 3135 | Date | 40mm YG | Full gold, Cerachrom |
| 116619LB | 2010–2020 | 3135 | Date | 40mm WG | "Smurf" — white gold, blue bezel |
Movement progression
| Caliber | Frequency | Power reserve | Used in | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A260/A296 | — | — | 6204, 6205, 6200, 6536 | Pre-1530 era |
| 1030 | — | — | 6536 (late), 6538 | Crown-guard transition |
| 1520 | 19,800 vph | — | 5513, 5514, 5517 | Non-chronometer path |
| 1530 | 18,000 vph | — | 5508, 5510, 5512 (early) | First crown-guard movements |
| 1560/1570 | 18,000/19,800 vph | — | 5512 | Chronometer path; hacking 1972 |
| 1575 | 19,800 vph | — | 1680 | Date complication |
| 3000 | 28,800 vph | 48 hr | 14060 | First modern no-date movement |
| 3035 | 28,800 vph | 48 hr | 16800, 16803, 16808 | First sapphire-crystal era date |
| 3130 | 28,800 vph | 48 hr | 14060M, 114060 | Parachrom; Superlative Chronometer |
| 3135 | 28,800 vph | 48 hr | 16610–116619LB | The 3135 era; 23+ years |
Sources
- History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 1 — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
- History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2 — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
- History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 4 — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
- Submariner Collector's Guide — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
- Reference Points: The Rolex Submariner — Stephen Pulvirent, Hodinkee