Reference:5512

Submariner → 5512

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Rolex Submariner Ref. 5512

The 5512 is the chronometer no-date Submariner and the watch that locks crown guards into the Submariner line. It overlaps with the 5513 for almost two decades but sits above it in the range, and it ends up being the scarcer watch by a wide margin. The Rolex-commissioned Submariner book by Nicholas Foulkes puts total 5512 production at 17,338 units.

Core facts

detail	value
reference	5512
family	Submariner (no date, chronometer)
production	approximately 1959 to 1978/1979
total production	17,338 units
movement	caliber 1530 (early), 1560 (mid), 1570 (late)
case	39.5–40mm, first Submariner with crown guards
crystal	acrylic
dial path	chronometer (COSC four-line) and early non-chronometer two-line

Where it sits in the line

The 5512 is the premium no-date Submariner — COSC-certified (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, the Swiss chronometer testing authority), sitting above the non-chronometer 5513 in the same no-date slot. That was the commercial split then, and in broad terms it is still the collecting split now. The 5512 is the scarcer, higher-specification watch at every point in the production overlap.

Production outline

Against the 5512's 17,338 units, the non-chronometer 5513 produced 151,449. Roughly one 5512 for every 11.4 5513s. Period retail pricing reflects the chronometer premium: in 1966–1968, a 5512 cost $210–$235 versus $160–$175 for the 5513.

The easiest way to read the 5512 is as a long run with four distinct generations, each defined by crown guard shape, dial type, and movement caliber. The generations are not clean factory transitions — they overlap at the edges — but they are stable enough to use as a navigation framework.

Crown guard generations

Square crown guards (1959)

Eagle beak crown guards

Pointed Cornino crown guards

Round crown guards (1964+)

Four production generations are documented for the 5512. The table below maps the key variables for each.

Generation	Period	Crown guards	Dial	Movement
1	1959	Square	Gloss gilt, Chapter Ring	Cal. 1570
2	~1960–1963	Pointed (Cornino)	Gloss gilt, Chapter Ring; 2-line and 4-line	Cal. 1530 or 1560
3	Mid-1960s	Pointed (Cornino)	Gloss gilt, 4-line only	Cal. 1560
4	Late 1960s	Rounded	Matte, white print	Cal. 1560

Serial band ranges are collector approximations based on caseback production stamps and known examples, not Rolex factory records. Rolex does not confirm vintage production dates. Individual watches near any transition point may not conform to the expected specifications.

Generation 1 — Square crown guards, 1959

Only approximately 12 known examples survive, arguably the rarest 5512 configuration in any form. The square profile is immediately recognizable: guards are blunt and straight rather than angled or pointed, a shape Rolex abandoned quickly after the first production run. Serial numbers for square guards start at 478 0xx (1959), with eagle-beak guards starting at serial 478 1xx. Combined square and eagle-beak production is estimated at no more than 300 total. The movement is caliber 1570, the dial is gloss black with gilt printing and a chapter ring (a gold-tone connected minute track that runs around the dial periphery). One square-crown-guard 5512 sold at Christie's in December 2013 for CHF 190,000. That sale price has not been beaten in public auction since, which gives some sense of where the ceiling sits when one of these appears.

Gilt-gloss dial construction: the gilt text on 5512 dials is not painted onto the dial surface. The gold-colored text is the brass dial plate visible through precision cutouts, sitting below the surface. Black glossy paint is applied over the brass plate, then a clear lacquer coat goes on top. Silver text (when present, such as SCOC lines) is applied over the final clear lacquer. Luminous material goes on last. That layered construction explains why gilt dials age differently from later printed matte dials — research documented by Beaumont Miller II on 5513mattedial.com.

Rolex Forum collectors note that three distinct crown-guard shapes are concentrated within 1959 alone: the square guards, an early transitional form, and the beginning of the pointed Cornino profile. Rolex was iterating fast.

Generation 2 — Pointed "Cornino" crown guards, ~1960–1963

The transition from square to pointed guards happened sometime in 1960, not as a clean break but with transitional examples. "Cornino" is Italian for "little horn" and describes the sharply pointed tip that gives this generation its personality. The term "eagle beak" is also used for this guard shape, with approximately 200 examples estimated for this configuration. Serial 870xxx (approximately 1962) is a solid Generation 2 example. Both two-line and four-line dials appear in this generation, which matters: the "5512 = four-line chronometer" shorthand breaks down here. Two-line dials carry no COSC certification text. Movement is caliber 1530 or 1560 depending on exact production timing.

Generation 3 — Pointed "Cornino" crown guards, mid-1960s

Still Cornino guards, but by this stage only four-line dials appear. This is where the 5512 starts to fully express its chronometer identity. Movement is caliber 1560. Dial is still gloss gilt.

Generation 4 — Rounded crown guards, late 1960s

The transition from pointed to rounded guards happens mid-to-late 1960s. Dial printing shifts from gilt to matte white around the same period; the exact boundary overlaps with the 5513's own matte transition. This generation bridges into the long matte phase that runs to the end of the reference.

Early crown-guard and gilt years

1966 Bart Simpson coronet

1963 Classic coronet

1961-62 Tulip coronet

1961-62 longer spikes coronet

1961-62 MK1 Old Font coronet

1959-60 four-line gilt dial

1959-60 two-line gilt dial

The 5512 starts in the glossy gilt dial era — a glossy black dial with gilt-colored printing, in contrast to the later matte style. Early gilt 5512 watches with square or pointed crown guards are where the reference reaches its highest values.

Matte years

The matte era follows and carries most of the long middle and late production. This is where meters-first and feet-first language starts to matter; those terms simply describe whether the dial prints 200m before 660ft, or the other way around. Late in the run, Maxi dials appear — collector shorthand for matte dials with noticeably larger lume plots.

Movement notes

The 5512 runs through three calibers across its production span: caliber 1530 early, caliber 1560 in the middle, and caliber 1570 late. Rolex Forum research adds a specific part number for authentication and parts sourcing: the caliber 1560 balance assembly carries part number 7980.

The earliest dial and movement picture is less tidy than the "5512 = chronometer" summary suggests. Early two-line 5512 dials exist without COSC certification text, and the movement progression from 1530 to 1560 to 1570 tracks the reference's long development rather than representing a clean single-caliber identity.

The 1530 is the transitional movement shared with the 5510 and early 5513. The 1560 and 1570 are the mature chronometer-grade movements that define the 5512's premium identity. Stephen Pulvirent's Hodinkee Reference Points piece on the Submariner confirms the shared caliber: "The early generations of 5513s use the caliber 1530, the same caliber that you'd find in the non-chronometer 5512s." Only the COSC-certified 5512s used the higher-spec 1570 and 1560-family calibers. Non-COSC 5512s share the 1530 with the 5513, which is why the two references' movement histories are not as divergent as the four-line/two-line shorthand suggests.

Luminous material transition: the 5512 spans the radium-to-tritium handover. 1950s and very early 1960s examples used radium, which tends toward a darker, more orange-toned patina over time. From the early 1960s onward, tritium replaced radium; aged tritium plots lean lighter and more golden. The color difference is partly attributed to how the brass dial plate reacted with different anti-corrosion chemicals during manufacturing. The dial text at the bottom reflects the transition directly: pre-1964 dials read "SWISS" only; from 1964 onward, "SWISS T<25" denotes tritium use.

One complication worth flagging: the Generation 1 (1959, square-crown-guard) 5512 is documented as carrying caliber 1570, which runs counter to the usual early-equals-1530 sequence. Whether this reflects pre-production or very early inventory use of the 1570 before a brief return to 1530 and 1560, or a documentation quirk, is not yet settled. Treat the Generation 1 / caliber 1570 pairing as documented but not fully explained.

Dial map

Chapter ring four-line tropical dial

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Dial detail

Dial Variant Eagle Beak

Dial Variant Matte Feet First

Dial Variant Matte Meters First

Dial Variant Pointed Cg

Dial Variant Square Cg Gilt

The 5512 dial taxonomy is organized by generation rather than by named dial variants. That differs from the 5513, which collectors classify by named types (Underline, Bart Simpson, Maxi). The two systems reflect different collecting priorities for each reference.

Early two-line and gilt

Two-line gilt dial with pointed crown guards

Early 5512 examples can be two-line, not yet settled into the later four-line chronometer layout. These non-COSC two-line dials exist in the earliest production and stop the reference from being flattened into a pure four-line chronometer watch. Two-line gilt examples with square or pointed crown guards are exceptionally rare.

The two-line configuration carries the depth rating and "SUBMARINER" only, with no chronometer certification text. The four-line configuration adds "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER" and "OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED" (the SCOC text). A rare OCC variant exists from the very earliest production: "OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED / CHRONOMETER" instead of the standard SCOC layout, analogous to the OCC 1675 GMT.

Text color patterns evolved across the gilt production run. In 1959–1960, mixed silver and gold text combinations appear: depth rating in silver, "SUBMARINER" in gold, with SCOC text (when present) in silver. From 1961–1962 with the MK1 Old Font coronet, two-line dials have both lines in silver. With the newer coronet types from 1961–1962, two-line dials show both lines in gold, while four-line dials have the first two lines in gold and the SCOC lines in silver. From 1963 onward, the standard pattern is the first two lines in gilt with SCOC text in silver.

Four-line gilt

Four-line gilt dial close-up — SCOC text, Swiss T<25

Four-line gilt examples are the cleaner chronometer-era expression of the reference and one of the main reasons collectors chase the 5512 over the 5513. The four-line layout adds COSC chronometer certification text below the depth rating, and the gilt finish adds the warmth and character of the early production era.

Matte white-letter dials

5512 with matte dial on wrist

After approximately 1967, the 5512 transitions from gilt to matte dials with white lettering, the same broad transition that affects the entire Submariner line. Matte 5512 dials include meters-first, feet-first, and late Maxi examples. The exact subtype map is still messier than the current package can claim to settle.

Rolex Forum collectors identify a "Meters First Neat Fonts" variant as a named sub-type within the matte meters-first category, distinguished by a particularly clean, precisely spaced typeface in the dial printing. A serif dial variant is also documented from approximately 1971–1972, where the dial text uses a serif typeface that differs from both the earlier and later non-serif matte printing. These named variants track the same typographic progression documented in the 5513 dial genre timeline.

Gilt to matte transition

The transition from gilt to matte dials happens around 1967, but the exact boundary is fuzzy. Some late-gilt and early-matte examples overlap in the serial number range. Treat the transition as a zone rather than a clean line.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

The 5512 is the case-development watch. It is the first Submariner with crown guards, and it represents a significant case size increase from the 38mm of the preceding 6536/1. Some sources measure the case at 39.5mm; most round to 40mm. Either way, that diameter becomes standard for the entire line through the modern era. That is the 5512's lasting contribution.

Crown guard evolution from square to pointed to rounded is the most important physical change across the production run. Collectors call the earliest guard shapes "square crown guards" and the second generation "eagle beaks" or "Cornino." Those names are useful collector field language rather than a neat factory taxonomy.

The crystal is a super dome plexi (model 19 or Tropic 39), giving early examples a pronounced domed profile. The watch keeps the usual no-date Submariner format and rotating bezel, with early Long 5 inserts — inserts whose "5" has a long tail — still appearing often enough to matter.

Early gilt dials show an exclamation dot below the 6 o'clock lume plot, a small round marker that likely functioned as a radium warning indicator. The radium-to-tritium transition occurred in the mid-1960s, with dial printing shifting from "SWISS" to "SWISS T<25" to denote the change in luminous material.

Chapter ring timing: gilt 5512 dials from 1959 through 1962 feature a characteristic gold-tone connected minute track (the chapter ring) spanning the dial periphery. From 1963 onward the chapter ring is absent, unless the dial is a carryover from an earlier production year. A chapter ring combined with an underline is very rare; when found, casebacks are typically dated to Q4 1962.

Bezel authentication: Fat Font Mark 1 and the "Kissing 40"

The earliest 5512 bezels are Fat Font Mark 1, identifiable by two things working together: thick, bold numerals, and the "kissing 40" at the 40-minute position where the 4 and 0 are nearly touching. The gap between them is almost nothing. Once recognized, it is unmistakable, and a service bezel walks right past unnoticed without that knowledge.

The Mark 2 bezel was likely introduced with Generation 3 in the mid-1960s, though the exact transition point is not cleanly documented. Service bezels use thin-font numerals and no kissing 40, both flags that a bezel has been swapped. A genuine Fat Font Mark 1 bezel on an early gilt 5512 is a meaningful authenticity and value indicator; a service bezel on the same case represents a significant collector downgrade.

Dial authentication: the gilt fraud vector

5512 gilt dials, especially chapter-ring dials, are one of the more active fraud vectors in vintage Submariner collecting. The premium on an original gilt 5512 dial is large enough to make refinishing and dial swapping commercially attractive. A genuine 5512 gilt dial should show a gilt chapter ring with the correct hash-mark style for its production period, a Rolex coronet in the shape appropriate for that era, and print characteristics (font weight, letter spacing, depth-rating format) consistent with the serial band.

Late gilt 5512 examples from approximately 1966 can show what collectors call "Bart Simpson" coronets, where the deep yellow of the galvanic gilt process produces a coronet whose color and proportions draw the cartoon comparison. Less common on the 5512 than on the 5513, but the term does appear in auction catalogues. A bright yellow coronet on a late gilt 5512 warrants verifying the serial range before assuming it is genuine.

Coronet evolution across the gilt era: The 5512 gilt production used at least seven identifiable coronet shapes, which serve as dating and authentication aids:

1. MK1 / "Old Font" coronet (1959–1962): The last spike on the right side of the coronet extends further down than the other four spikes, reminiscent of coronets on the preceding big-crown Submariners (6538). Term attributed to collector Marcello Pisani.
2. Longer spikes coronet (1961–1962): Coronet with noticeably longer spikes than the Old Font.
3. Shorter spikes / rounder coronet (1961–1962): More round at the bottom with shorter spikes.
4. Tulip coronet (1961–1962): Distinctively shaped, named for its tulip-like appearance.
5. Elongated spikes coronet (1963): Broad base with very long spikes. Seldom seen; a rare variant.
6. Classic coronet (1963–1966): More broad and wide at the bottom than predecessors. Became the most common coronet for the remainder of gilt-gloss production.
7. Bart Simpson coronet (1966): Produced at the very end of gilt-gloss production. Named because the coronet resembles the outline of Bart Simpson's head.

Matching the correct coronet shape to the serial range is one of the primary authentication tools for gilt 5512 dials. An incorrect coronet for the period is a strong indicator of a replacement or refinished dial.

Movement authentication: butterfly rotor

Rolex Forum collectors flag the butterfly rotor as an authentication checkpoint for the 5512. The butterfly rotor, named for its shape, is the correct rotor type for certain production periods within the reference's long run. A 5512 presented with an incorrect rotor type for its serial range is a red flag for movement replacement or parts mixing. This is a quick visual check performed with the caseback removed and is especially useful when evaluating early examples where the movement premium is highest.

Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes

Book-backed fitment notes run early to late: the 7206/80 rivet bracelet on early production, the 9315 folded-link Oyster (end links 280 or 380) in the middle, and the 93150 solid-link Oyster (end link 580) late in the run. That is a fitment map, not a delivery chart.

The observed examples back up the caution. Early documented watches wear rivet bracelets, while a late Maxi example is on 93150/580 with a clasp dated later than the watch. Useful for understanding survival patterns, not for claiming what left the retailer on a specific day.

Packaging needs the same caution. One early high-end example is stated as box and paper, but that is still one example, not a policy.

Special branches

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Historical Example

Square crown guards

The most obvious early branch, and one of the main reasons the 5512 matters beyond the dial text. Square-crown-guard 5512 examples from 1959 are among the rarest and most valuable vintage Submariners, and they represent the very first expression of what becomes the standard Submariner case shape.

Pointed "Cornino" crown guards

The second-generation crown guards form a distinct collecting branch. Less rare than square guards but still early production that predates the rounded guards most collectors know.

Early two-line dials

These matter because they show the 5512 before it settled into its four-line chronometer identity. A two-line gilt 5512 with early crown guards is a fundamentally different watch from a late four-line matte 5512.

Historical market and auction record

Vintage Rolex Oyster advertisement

Period Rolex chronometer advertising

Bureaux Suisses chronometer certification, dated 1961

The Rolex-commissioned Submariner book by Nicholas Foulkes puts total 5512 production at 17,338 watches. That number helps explain why the reference feels scarcer than the 5513 in the market and why prices have consistently run higher.

The early high-end branch sits in a different universe from later commercial examples. A sold 1960 tropical gilt tulip 5512 with stated box and paper traded at $75,000, and a sold 1965 four-line gilt example at $32,500. At the other end, a sold 1979 late-run Maxi 5512 traded at about $18,495. The spread tells the story.

One Sotheby's lot in the package documents a 1967 5512 with caliber 1570 movement and inner caseback marked 5513, but the public page is sloppy enough to call it a watch with date while plainly showing a no-date Submariner. Treat it as documented but not clean enough for a benchmark.

Crown guard type has an enormous effect on value. Square-crown-guard examples from 1959 trade in a completely different tier from rounded-crown-guard examples from the mid-1960s onward, even when both carry gilt dials. The crown guard is not just a cosmetic detail. It is a date marker and a rarity indicator.

Sources

• RolexHaven.com — serial-level Small Crown Submariner documentation
• The Vintage Rolex Field Manual — Morning Tundra
• History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
• Collector's Guide: What To Know About The Rolex Submariner Reference 5512 — Charlie Dunne, Wind Vintage
• Reference Points: Understanding The Rolex Submariner — Stephen Pulvirent, Hodinkee
• 1960 Rolex 5512 Tropical Gilt Tulip Submariner W/Box & Paper — Grey and Patina, Grey and Patina
• 1965 Rolex 5512 Gilt Submariner — Grey and Patina, Grey and Patina
• Vintage Rolex Submariner 5512 — Bob's Watches editorial staff, Bob's Watches
• Rolex Reference 5512 Submariner, A Stainless Steel Automatic Wristwatch With Bracelet, Circa 1967 — Sotheby's, Sotheby's
• The Rolex Square Crown Guard Submariner Reference 5512 — Revolution Watch editorial, Revolution Watch
• In depth-review Rolex 5512 Submariner — Edmond Saran, Le Monde Edmond

• 5513 Matte Dial and Gilt-Gloss 5512 Submariner — Comprehensive Reviews — Beaumont Miller II, 5513mattedial.com

Named contributors: Gilt-gloss dial research by Beaumont Miller II (5513mattedial.com), with acknowledged contributions from Marcello Pisani (originator of the "Old Font" coronet terminology).