Reference:submariner

Rolex Submariner

The most recognized dive watch ever made. First introduced in 1953 as the reference 6204, the Submariner has been in continuous production for over seventy years across more than three dozen distinct reference numbers. It defined what a sport watch looks like: rotating bezel, luminous dial, water resistance. Every dive watch made since exists in its shadow.

Vintage Rolex Submariner advertising — the watch that defined the dive watch category

Early Submariner (1953–1959)

The experimental years before Rolex settled on what the Submariner would become. Crown sizes changed, depth ratings jumped, hands moved from pencil to Mercedes style, and dial layouts shifted between clean faces and Explorer-style 3-6-9 numerals.

Reference	Production	Movement	Depth	Case	Key distinction
6204	1953–1954	A260	100m	36mm SS	First Submariner
6205	1953–1954	A296	100m	36mm SS	Parallel early production; minor case/dial variations
6200	1953–1954	A296	200m	36mm SS	"King Sub" — oversized 8mm crown, Explorer dial option
6536	1954–1958	A296/1030	100m	36mm SS	Transitional; smaller crown, Mercedes hands
6538	1957–1960	1030	200m	38mm SS	James Bond Sub (Connery); large crown, no crown guards

Crown-guard era (1958–1990)

The Submariner finds its lasting form. Crown guards appear on the 5512 in 1959, and the era establishes the chronometer/non-chronometer split and introduces the date complication.

Reference	Production	Movement	Type	Case	Key distinction
No-date
5508	1958–1962	1530	No-date	38mm SS	Last pre-crown-guard no-date
5510	1958–1960	1530	No-date	38mm SS	Rare transitional; crown guard + no crown guard variants
5512	1959–1980	1530/1560/1570	No-date	40mm SS	Chronometer; crown guards; gilt and matte eras; 17,338 units
5513	~1962–1989	1520/1530	No-date	40mm SS	27-year run; non-chronometer; gilt, matte, Bart Simpson variants
5514	1960–1978	1520	No-date	40mm SS	COMEX; helium escape valve
5517	1972–1979	1520	No-date	40mm SS	British Military; MOD markings, fixed spring bars
Date
1680	1969–1979	1575	Date	40mm SS	First date Sub; Red Sub (6 marks) and White Sub eras

Five-digit era (1979–2010)

Sapphire crystal replaces acrylic, movements advance to caliber 3135, and the line expands into precious metals.

Reference	Production	Movement	Type	Case	Key distinction
No-date (steel)
14060	1990–2000	3000	No-date	40mm SS	Sapphire crystal, caliber 3000
14060M	2000–2012	3130	No-date	40mm SS	Superlative Chronometer certification
Date (steel)
16800	1979–1986	3035	Date	40mm SS	Transitional; first sapphire crystal Sub Date
16610	1987–2010	3135	Date	40mm SS	23-year benchmark; solid end links, Parachrom late
16610LV	2003–2010	3135	Date	40mm SS	"Kermit" — first green bezel, 50th anniversary
Date (precious metal)
16803	1984–1988	3035	Date	40mm SS/YG	Two-tone; blue or black dial
16808	1984–1988	3035	Date	40mm YG	Full 18k yellow gold
16613	1988–2010	3135	Date	40mm SS/YG	Two-tone successor to 16803
16618	1988–2010	3135	Date	40mm YG	Full gold successor to 16808

Six-digit era (2010–2020)

Cerachrom ceramic bezels, Glidelock bracelets, and the move from 40mm to 41mm. The current generation at its most technically refined.

Reference	Production	Movement	Type	Case	Key distinction
No-date
114060	2012–2020	3130	No-date	40mm SS	"Last small Sub" — ceramic bezel, maxi dial
Date (steel)
116610LN	2010–2020	3135	Date	40mm SS	Cerachrom bezel, Glidelock bracelet
116610LV	2010–2020	3135	Date	40mm SS	"Hulk" — green dial + green ceramic bezel
Date (precious metal)
116613	2010–2020	3135	Date	40mm SS/YG	Two-tone, Cerachrom
116618	2010–2020	3135	Date	40mm YG	Full gold, Cerachrom
116619LB	2010–2020	3135	Date	40mm WG	"Smurf" — white gold, blue bezel

Movement progression

Caliber	Frequency	Power reserve	Used in	Notes
A260/A296	—	—	6204, 6205, 6200, 6536	Pre-1530 era
1030	—	—	6536 (late), 6538	Crown-guard transition
1520	19,800 vph	—	5513, 5514, 5517	Non-chronometer path
1530	18,000 vph	—	5508, 5510, 5512 (early)	First crown-guard movements
1560/1570	18,000/19,800 vph	—	5512	Chronometer path; hacking 1972
1575	19,800 vph	—	1680	Date complication
3000	28,800 vph	48 hr	14060	First modern no-date movement
3035	28,800 vph	48 hr	16800, 16803, 16808	First sapphire-crystal era date
3130	28,800 vph	48 hr	14060M, 114060	Parachrom; Superlative Chronometer
3135	28,800 vph	48 hr	16610–116619LB	The 3135 era; 23+ years

Sources

• History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 1 — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
• History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2 — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
• History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 4 — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
• Submariner Collector's Guide — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
• Reference Points: The Rolex Submariner — Stephen Pulvirent, Hodinkee