Reference:submariner-5xxx-family: Difference between revisions

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The 5xxx Submariner family is the core no-date vintage Submariner story. This is where the Submariner becomes the watch most collectors picture in their heads.
The 5xxx Submariner family is the core no-date vintage Submariner story. It starts with the last no-crown-guard watches, runs through the transitional big-crown [[Reference:5510|5510]], and settles into the crown-guard commercial core of the [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]]. From there it breaks into special-issue branches: the COMEX [[Reference:5514|5514]] and the British military [[Reference:5517|5517]].
 
It begins with the last no-crown-guard watches, runs through the transitional big-crown [[Reference:5510|5510]], then settles into the crown-guard commercial core of [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]]. From there it breaks into special-issue branches like the COMEX [[Reference:5514|5514]] and military [[Reference:5517|5517]].


<span id="core-map"></span>
<span id="core-map"></span>
== Core map ==
== Core map ==


The family runs across six references. The [[Reference:5508|5508]] is the small-crown, no-crown-guard watch, the last of that mainstream branch. The [[Reference:5510|5510]] is the big-crown transitional bridge to the later family. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the chronometer crown-guard no-date Submariner and the [[Reference:5513|5513]] is its non-chronometer counterpart. The [[Reference:5514|5514]] is the COMEX-only branch with a helium escape valve, and the [[Reference:5517|5517]] is the military-only fixed-bar branch.
Six references make up the family. The [[Reference:5508|5508]] is the small-crown, no-crown-guard watch, the last of its branch. The [[Reference:5510|5510]] is the big-crown transitional bridge. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the chronometer crown-guard no-date Submariner; the [[Reference:5513|5513]] is its non-chronometer counterpart. The [[Reference:5514|5514]] is the COMEX-only branch with a helium escape valve (HEV), and the [[Reference:5517|5517]] is the fixed-bar military branch.


Small-crown and big-crown mean exactly what they sound like: the size of the winding crown on the early no-crown-guard watches. HEV means helium escape valve.
Small crown and big crown refer to the size of the winding crown on the pre-crown-guard watches. Those terms carry their full meaning in the references themselves.


<span id="where-the-family-changes"></span>
<span id="where-the-family-changes"></span>
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=== Crown and case architecture ===
=== Crown and case architecture ===


The family starts without crown guards and ends with them fully baked into the model. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the structural pivot. It makes crown guards permanent.
The family starts without crown guards and ends with them permanent. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the structural pivot — it locks crown guards into the Submariner.


The working sequence runs from the [[Reference:5508|5508]] with a small crown and no crown guards, through the [[Reference:5510|5510]] with a big crown and no crown guards, into the earliest [[Reference:5512|5512]] with square crown guards and then eagle-beak and pointed refinements, and finally into the later [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] with the mature rounded crown-guard commercial form.
The working sequence runs from the [[Reference:5508|5508]] (small crown, no crown guards) through the [[Reference:5510|5510]] (big crown, no crown guards), into the earliest [[Reference:5512|5512]] with square crown guards, then eagle-beak and pointed Cornino refinements, and finally into the later [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] with the mature rounded crown-guard form. Cornino is Italian for "little horn" and describes the sharp, pointed tip of the second-generation crown guard.
 
That chart now lives in research/evidence/submariner/5xxx-family/crown-evolution.yaml. It is a working map, not a final serial table.


<span id="commercial-split"></span>
<span id="commercial-split"></span>
=== Commercial split ===
=== Commercial split ===


The [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] overlap for years, but they hold different positions in the market. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the chronometer no-date watch. The [[Reference:5513|5513]] is the cheaper non-chronometer no-date watch. The distinction matters.
The [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] overlap for years but hold different market positions. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the chronometer no-date watch, certified to COSC and priced accordingly. The [[Reference:5513|5513]] is the non-chronometer no-date watch, produced in far higher volume and sold at a lower retail price. That split drives much of the modern collecting split as well.


<span id="special-issue-branches"></span>
<span id="special-issue-branches"></span>
=== Special-issue branches ===
=== Special-issue branches ===


The [[Reference:5514|5514]] and [[Reference:5517|5517]] should not be treated as normal retail peers to the [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]]. They are branch watches tied to specific professional distribution paths.
The [[Reference:5514|5514]] and [[Reference:5517|5517]] are not retail peers to the [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]]. They are branch watches tied to specific professional distribution paths: COMEX for the 5514 (French commercial saturation diving) and the British Royal Navy for the 5517.


<span id="reference-by-reference"></span>
<span id="reference-by-reference"></span>
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=== 5508 ===
=== 5508 ===


The [[Reference:5508|5508]] is the last mainstream Submariner without crown guards. It still lives in the small-crown world and marks the end of the earlier case language before the [[Reference:5512|5512]] changes the line. The package now has a tropical 1959 archive watch, a service-dial lot, and a 1962 exclamation-dot example, so the reference no longer rests on one thin source.
The [[Reference:5508|5508]] is the last mainstream Submariner without crown guards. It sits in the small-crown world and closes the earlier case chapter before the [[Reference:5512|5512]] changes the line. Archive examples now include a tropical 1959 watch, a service-dial example, and a 1962 exclamation-dot late example.


<span id="section-1"></span>
<span id="section-1"></span>
=== 5510 ===
=== 5510 ===


The [[Reference:5510|5510]] is the last big-crown transitional watch. It still looks back to the [[Reference:6538|6538]] world, but the movement picture has moved forward. The package now has stronger documented examples, which makes the reference feel a lot less speculative than it did before.
The [[Reference:5510|5510]] is the short-run big-crown transitional watch. Case and crown still look back to the [[Reference:6538|6538]], but the movement is already caliber 1530, the same caliber that powers the early [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]]. That dual identity is its whole point.


<span id="section-2"></span>
<span id="section-2"></span>
=== 5512 ===
=== 5512 ===


The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the premium no-date Submariner. It is the first where crown guards become a lasting part of the model's identity. It carries the chronometer story.
The [[Reference:5512|5512]] is the premium no-date Submariner and the first reference where crown guards become a lasting part of the model. It carries the chronometer story across a twenty-year run and four documented crown-guard generations.


<span id="section-3"></span>
<span id="section-3"></span>
=== 5513 ===
=== 5513 ===


The [[Reference:5513|5513]] is the long-run commercial core. It absorbs the broadest dial evolution, from gilt through matte to late gloss, and becomes the most familiar no-date Submariner in the vintage market. No other reference covers as much ground.
The [[Reference:5513|5513]] is the long-run commercial core. Twenty-seven years of production, 151,449 pieces, dial eras from gilt through matte to late gloss. No other Submariner reference covers as much ground.


<span id="section-4"></span>
<span id="section-4"></span>
=== 5514 ===
=== 5514 ===


The [[Reference:5514|5514]] is the COMEX-specific branch. It shows how the family adapts to professional saturation-diving needs rather than ordinary retail demand. The package is still thinner here than on the commercial references, but it now includes a real sold archive example instead of only article-level branch coverage.
The [[Reference:5514|5514]] is the COMEX-specific branch. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises) was a French commercial diving firm that pioneered saturation diving. The 5514 is a 5513 case with an HEV, issued directly to COMEX divers and never sold through any retailer. A sold 1976 archive example with box, service papers, and documented diver provenance anchors the reference.


<span id="section-5"></span>
<span id="section-5"></span>
=== 5517 ===
=== 5517 ===


The [[Reference:5517|5517]] is the dedicated military branch. Fixed bars, full-minute bezel markings, and military hand and dial traits put it in a different lane from the standard commercial references. The package now includes two direct Sotheby's [[Reference:5517|5517]] lot pages, a photographed 1977 example from Hodinkee's Mike Wood report, and a sold military [[Reference:5513|5513]] archive example. The military branch finally has real observed footing.
The [[Reference:5517|5517]] is the British military Submariner, known universally as the MilSub. Fixed bars, a 60-minute bezel, T SWISS T tritium dial, and military caseback markings put it in a different lane from the commercial references. The footing is concrete: two Sotheby's 5517 lots, a photographed 1977 example from Hodinkee's Mike Wood report, and a sold military 5513 archive example for context.


<span id="dial-and-movement-logic-across-the-family"></span>
<span id="dial-and-movement-logic-across-the-family"></span>
== Dial and movement logic across the family ==
== Dial and movement logic across the family ==


The family is not one dial story. Early 5xxx watches still sit in the glossy gilt world, with glossy black dials and gilt-colored printing rather than the later matte style. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] then split into different long-run dial arcs. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] movement path runs through 1530, 1560, and 1570, while the [[Reference:5513|5513]] movement path settles into 1530 and 1520.
The 5xxx family is not one dial story. Early watches live in the glossy gilt world glossy black lacquer with gilt-colored printing rather than the later matte finish. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] then split into different long-run dial arcs. The [[Reference:5512|5512]] movement path runs through caliber 1530, 1560, and 1570 (the 1560 and 1570 being the chronometer-grade movements that define its premium identity). The [[Reference:5513|5513]] movement path settles into caliber 1530 and then the long-run non-chronometer 1520.


This is where lazy summaries get people into trouble. The 5xxx family rewards reference-specific thinking.
Lazy summaries get collectors into trouble here. The 5xxx family rewards reference-specific thinking.


<span id="bracelet-and-packaging-logic"></span>
<span id="bracelet-and-packaging-logic"></span>
== Bracelet and packaging logic ==
== Bracelet and packaging logic ==


Even inside this one family, bracelet fitment is easier to support than original delivery.
Bracelet fitment is easier to document than original delivery. Across the [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] the book-backed fitment picture overlaps heavily: the 7206/80 rivet bracelet on early production, the 9315 folded-link Oyster with 280 or 380 end links in the middle, and the 93150 solid-link Oyster with 580 end links on late production. Those combinations were not all original-delivery defaults across the run. The same caution applies to boxes and papers.
 
The current book-backed fitment picture already overlaps heavily across [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]], with the 7206/80, the 9315/280 (or 380), and the 93150/580 all documented. Those combinations were not all original-delivery defaults across the run. The same caution applies to boxes and papers.
 
The family bracelet fitment matrix and packaging map now live under research/evidence/submariner/5xxx-family/. They are working comparison tools, not final buyer-checklist tables.


<span id="historical-market-view"></span>
<span id="historical-market-view"></span>
== Historical market view ==
== Historical market view ==


The [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] do not occupy the same market depth. Production figures from the Rolex-commissioned Submariner book put the gap in sharp relief: 17,338 pieces for the [[Reference:5512|5512]] against 151,449 for the [[Reference:5513|5513]].
The [[Reference:5512|5512]] and [[Reference:5513|5513]] do not occupy the same market depth. The Rolex-commissioned Submariner book by Nicholas Foulkes puts the gap in sharp relief: 17,338 pieces for the [[Reference:5512|5512]] against 151,449 for the [[Reference:5513|5513]]. Roughly one 5512 for every eleven 5513s.
 
That gap does not make every [[Reference:5512|5512]] automatically better. It does explain why the [[Reference:5512|5512]] feels scarcer and why special-branch 5xxx watches move into a different price tier fast.


The special branches now have more than abstract rarity language. A sold 1976 [[Reference:5514|5514]] COMEX archive example with box, service papers, and diver provenance is in the local package, while Sotheby's direct [[Reference:5517|5517]] lots from 2018 and 2023 give the military branch real auction footing with six-figure CHF estimates and explicit military-spec component notes.
That ratio does not make every [[Reference:5512|5512]] automatically better, but it does explain why the 5512 feels scarcer in the market and why special-branch 5xxx watches move into a different price tier quickly. A sold 1976 [[Reference:5514|5514]] COMEX archive with box, service papers, and diver provenance, and two Sotheby's [[Reference:5517|5517]] lots from 2018 and 2023, make the branch market concrete rather than abstract.


== Sources ==
== Sources ==

Revision as of 17:31, 18 April 2026


The 5xxx Submariner family is the core no-date vintage Submariner story. It starts with the last no-crown-guard watches, runs through the transitional big-crown 5510, and settles into the crown-guard commercial core of the 5512 and 5513. From there it breaks into special-issue branches: the COMEX 5514 and the British military 5517.

Core map

Six references make up the family. The 5508 is the small-crown, no-crown-guard watch, the last of its branch. The 5510 is the big-crown transitional bridge. The 5512 is the chronometer crown-guard no-date Submariner; the 5513 is its non-chronometer counterpart. The 5514 is the COMEX-only branch with a helium escape valve (HEV), and the 5517 is the fixed-bar military branch.

Small crown and big crown refer to the size of the winding crown on the pre-crown-guard watches. Those terms carry their full meaning in the references themselves.

Where the family changes

Crown and case architecture

The family starts without crown guards and ends with them permanent. The 5512 is the structural pivot — it locks crown guards into the Submariner.

The working sequence runs from the 5508 (small crown, no crown guards) through the 5510 (big crown, no crown guards), into the earliest 5512 with square crown guards, then eagle-beak and pointed Cornino refinements, and finally into the later 5512 and 5513 with the mature rounded crown-guard form. Cornino is Italian for "little horn" and describes the sharp, pointed tip of the second-generation crown guard.

Commercial split

The 5512 and 5513 overlap for years but hold different market positions. The 5512 is the chronometer no-date watch, certified to COSC and priced accordingly. The 5513 is the non-chronometer no-date watch, produced in far higher volume and sold at a lower retail price. That split drives much of the modern collecting split as well.

Special-issue branches

The 5514 and 5517 are not retail peers to the 5512 and 5513. They are branch watches tied to specific professional distribution paths: COMEX for the 5514 (French commercial saturation diving) and the British Royal Navy for the 5517.

Reference by reference

5508

The 5508 is the last mainstream Submariner without crown guards. It sits in the small-crown world and closes the earlier case chapter before the 5512 changes the line. Archive examples now include a tropical 1959 watch, a service-dial example, and a 1962 exclamation-dot late example.

5510

The 5510 is the short-run big-crown transitional watch. Case and crown still look back to the 6538, but the movement is already caliber 1530, the same caliber that powers the early 5512 and 5513. That dual identity is its whole point.

5512

The 5512 is the premium no-date Submariner and the first reference where crown guards become a lasting part of the model. It carries the chronometer story across a twenty-year run and four documented crown-guard generations.

5513

The 5513 is the long-run commercial core. Twenty-seven years of production, 151,449 pieces, dial eras from gilt through matte to late gloss. No other Submariner reference covers as much ground.

5514

The 5514 is the COMEX-specific branch. COMEX (Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises) was a French commercial diving firm that pioneered saturation diving. The 5514 is a 5513 case with an HEV, issued directly to COMEX divers and never sold through any retailer. A sold 1976 archive example with box, service papers, and documented diver provenance anchors the reference.

5517

The 5517 is the British military Submariner, known universally as the MilSub. Fixed bars, a 60-minute bezel, T SWISS T tritium dial, and military caseback markings put it in a different lane from the commercial references. The footing is concrete: two Sotheby's 5517 lots, a photographed 1977 example from Hodinkee's Mike Wood report, and a sold military 5513 archive example for context.

Dial and movement logic across the family

The 5xxx family is not one dial story. Early watches live in the glossy gilt world — glossy black lacquer with gilt-colored printing rather than the later matte finish. The 5512 and 5513 then split into different long-run dial arcs. The 5512 movement path runs through caliber 1530, 1560, and 1570 (the 1560 and 1570 being the chronometer-grade movements that define its premium identity). The 5513 movement path settles into caliber 1530 and then the long-run non-chronometer 1520.

Lazy summaries get collectors into trouble here. The 5xxx family rewards reference-specific thinking.

Bracelet and packaging logic

Bracelet fitment is easier to document than original delivery. Across the 5512 and 5513 the book-backed fitment picture overlaps heavily: the 7206/80 rivet bracelet on early production, the 9315 folded-link Oyster with 280 or 380 end links in the middle, and the 93150 solid-link Oyster with 580 end links on late production. Those combinations were not all original-delivery defaults across the run. The same caution applies to boxes and papers.

Historical market view

The 5512 and 5513 do not occupy the same market depth. The Rolex-commissioned Submariner book by Nicholas Foulkes puts the gap in sharp relief: 17,338 pieces for the 5512 against 151,449 for the 5513. Roughly one 5512 for every eleven 5513s.

That ratio does not make every 5512 automatically better, but it does explain why the 5512 feels scarcer in the market and why special-branch 5xxx watches move into a different price tier quickly. A sold 1976 5514 COMEX archive with box, service papers, and diver provenance, and two Sotheby's 5517 lots from 2018 and 2023, make the branch market concrete rather than abstract.

Sources