Reference:3009: Difference between revisions

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Fact correction: Boettcher's Prima ladder (myrolexpage.php) runs 15/18 jewels, so the 3009's 17-jewel grade does not sit on it; his enamel lettering test (blogenameldials.php) covers names added in paint, not the fired numerals and tracks; drop unsourced third-wheel-pivot warning found on no cited Boettcher page; restore Hodinkee (Forster 2021) quotation punctuation
Correct 3009 winding contradiction, Cal. 700 attribution, and auction record
 
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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 3009 Oyster Chronometre Scientific}}
{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 3009 Oyster Chronometre Scientific}}
The 3009 is a manual-wind Oyster from the middle 1930s, built around a white vitreous enamel dial divided into three concentric tracks: hours on the inner ring, minutes outside them, and an outer scale graduated to fifths of a second, swept by a bright red centre seconds hand. The layout exists to be read quickly and read exactly. Nothing else on the dial competes with it.


It is also one of the most frequently miscatalogued references in early Rolex. The 3009 appears on the community reference lists that circulate as the canonical Bubbleback roster, and Sotheby's has filed one under a "Bubbleback 'Flatback'" heading. The watch is neither. Every documented example is manual-wind, and the caseback is flat because there is no rotor to clear. Hodinkee's own Bubbleback survey shows a 3009 and says so directly, calling it "a 'flatback' with manual-wind movement" while noting that only a few examples have ever appeared for sale publicly.
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009 — Enamel Dial & Auction Record | BezelBase
|description=Rolex reference 3009: manual-wind Oyster evidence, white enamel Scientific dials, movement attribution, case dates, and auction records.
|image=Ref 3009 hero.webp
|type=article
}}


[[File:Ref 3009 hero.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific ref 3009 in 9K gold with a white enamel three-track dial|Rolex Oyster Chronometre "Scientific" 3009 in 9K gold, case 39218, on the GEMEX bracelet it carried at Antiquorum Hong Kong in April 2019.]]
<small>Oyster → '''3009'''</small>
 
The best-known ref. 3009 has a white vitreous-enamel dial divided into hour, minute and
fifths-of-a-second tracks, with a red centre seconds hand. The same case reference also appears
with champagne, silvered, 24-hour and California layouts, including one subsidiary-seconds watch.
 
Most auction descriptions identify manual movements. Sotheby's has used a “Bubbleback Flatback”
heading, and Antiquorum has used Bubbleback and Oyster Perpetual headings while describing manual
winding in the lot text. Two Lacy Scott & Knight entries instead say automatic, using identical
catalogue copy; no published caliber identification or clear movement assessment resolves that
discrepancy. Hodinkee describes the ref. 3009 it illustrates as a manual-wind flatback.
 
[[File:Ref 3009 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|alt=Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific ref 3009 in 9K gold with a white enamel three-track dial|Rolex Oyster Chronometre “Scientific” 3009 in 9K gold, Antiquorum Hong Kong 2019]]


==Core facts==
==Core facts==
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|-
|-
| production
| production
| mid-1930s to mid-1940s; the only firm date anchor is a Glasgow import mark for 1937
| no documented range; Glasgow import mark for 1937 and a presentation inscription dated 1947 are the firm dated observations
|-
|-
| case diameter
| case diameter
| 31mm across ten of twelve measured lots; single outliers at 30mm and 33mm
| 30–33mm in catalogues, most often 31mm
|-
|-
| case thickness
| observed dimensions
| 10mm
| 10mm thick on several catalogue records; 17mm lug width and 27.3g on one LSK example
|-
| lug width
| 17mm
|-
|-
| case shape
| case shape
Line 35: Line 48:
|-
|-
| case construction
| case construction
| two-piece Oyster, screw-down back and crown
| catalogued as two- or three-body; screw-down back and crown
|-
|-
| case materials
| case materials
| 9ct gold, 14K yellow gold, 18K yellow gold, 18K pink gold
| 9ct gold, 14K yellow gold, 14K pink gold, 18K yellow gold, 18K pink gold
|-
|-
| crystal
| crystal
| acrylic
| material not established across the cited catalogues
|-
|-
| movement
| movement
| 10½-ligne Aegler "Hunter", identified as Rolex calibre 700
| manual 10½-ligne movements documented; Aegler Hunter / Cal. 700 is a probable family attribution, not a visible caliber marking
|-
|-
| jewels
| jewels
| 17 or 18, tracking movement grade
| 17 or 18
|-
|-
| adjustment
| adjustment
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|-
|-
| seconds
| seconds
| indirect centre seconds, driven off an extended third-wheel arbor
| centre seconds on most catalogued watches; subsidiary seconds on the Observatory example
|-
|-
| dial
| signature dial
| two-piece white vitreous enamel, three tracks, fifths-of-a-second outer scale
| two-piece white vitreous enamel, three tracks, fifths-of-a-second outer scale
|-
| weight
| 27.3g in 9ct gold
|}
|}


==Where it sits in the line==
==Where it sits in the line==


Reading the 3009 requires unlearning a modern habit. Today a Rolex reference number implies a model: 116500LN means Daytona. In the 1930s a reference number named a case, and the name on the dial was a separate marketing decision applied to it. Antiquorum stated the principle plainly when it catalogued the Mondani Collection in 2006, noting that reference 3116 "was marketed as the Royal, Viceroy, Imperial, Imperial Chronometer and Observatory Chronometer." Add the Asprey-retailed "Imperial Chronometre Scientific" 3116 that Bonhams later sold and one case reference carries six marketing names.
Early Oyster case references could carry several marketed names. Antiquorum notes that ref. 3116
appeared as Royal, Viceroy and Imperial, plus chronometer-labelled Imperial and Observatory variants.


The 3009 behaves the same way. Across the auction record it appears as the Chronometre Scientific with its white enamel sector dial, as an Oyster Royal and Observatory with a champagne dial, as a plain two-tone silvered centre-seconds Oyster, and once with a California dial. Heritage catalogued a pink-gold example under a Speedking Precision heading while its own movement note read "Chronometer." So "Scientific" describes a dial, not a model line and not a movement grade.
Ref. 3009 follows the same pattern. Auction catalogues use Chronometre Scientific, Oyster Royal,
Observatory, Oyster Chronometer and Speedking Precision. “Scientific” appears on the white enamel
dial, but it does not identify a single case material, movement grade or seconds layout.


Movement grade ran on a third axis entirely, and Rolex marked it on the movement rather than the dial. David Boettcher, working from surviving examples, sets out the ladder: Prima applied to 15-jewel movements timed in six positions, Extra Prima to 18-jewel movements carrying three additional jewels, and Ultra Prima also to 18-jewel movements, with the distinction between the top two grades unresolved. Above all of them sat observatory certification, and above that the Kew A certificate, which Bonhams records only 136 Rolex watches ever attained. Nothing about a Scientific dial guarantees where on that ladder any individual 3009 sits.
David Boettcher describes Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima as movement grades rather than
calibers. The documented 3009 jewel counts and adjustment descriptions do not map cleanly onto
that broader ladder, so the dial wording should not be used to infer a grade.


[[File:Ref 3009 Glasgow 1937.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009 in 9K gold carrying a Glasgow import hallmark for 1937|Case 37845, the example whose Glasgow import mark for 1937 is the only compulsory-dated anchor in the reference's record.]]
[[File:Ref 3009 Glasgow 1937.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009 in 9K gold carrying a Glasgow import hallmark for 1937|Case 37845, the example whose Glasgow import mark for 1937 is the only compulsory-dated anchor in the reference's record.]]
Line 76: Line 91:
Dating this reference honestly means admitting how little is fixed. Auction houses have assigned examples to circa 1930, circa 1935, circa 1937 and circa 1944, and those estimates do not reconcile against case numbers. The one hard anchor in the whole documented record is the Glasgow import mark for 1937 on case 37845, sold through Bonhams. British assay and import marks carry a compulsory date letter, which makes them the reliable dating instrument for pre-1948 Rolex in a way that catalogue estimates are not.
Dating this reference honestly means admitting how little is fixed. Auction houses have assigned examples to circa 1930, circa 1935, circa 1937 and circa 1944, and those estimates do not reconcile against case numbers. The one hard anchor in the whole documented record is the Glasgow import mark for 1937 on case 37845, sold through Bonhams. British assay and import marks carry a compulsory date letter, which makes them the reliable dating instrument for pre-1948 Rolex in a way that catalogue estimates are not.


The case numbers that have surfaced cluster loosely: 5378/39218, 12818, 37791, 37840, 37845, 39069, 39250, 39251, 56568 and 278072. Movement numbers 10927, 10936 and 15204 run on their own sequence and cannot be mapped onto the case series. Two movements nine numbers apart sit in cases more than a thousand apart, so the temptation to read production volume from three data points is best resisted.
The observed case numbers include 12818, 37791, 37840, 37845, 39218, 39250, 39251, 46704,
56568 and 474700. The last belongs to the watch Antiquorum dated circa 1959 and titled Oyster
Perpetual despite describing manual winding. Its outer caseback has a presentation inscription
dated 1947, which also conflicts with the catalogue date. Neither date establishes the production run.


One pairing in that list is worth pausing on. Lacy Scott & Knight sold case 39251 in May 2025 and case 39250 four weeks later in June, both 9ct gold, both carrying a later engraved caseback monogram. Consecutive case numbers, matching later engraving and the same provincial English saleroom a month apart point to two watches delivered together, kept together for decades, and separated only at consignment.
Lacy Scott & Knight sold consecutive cases 39251 and 39250 four weeks apart in 2025. Both are
9ct-gold watches with later monograms. The records suggest a relationship but do not prove shared
delivery or continuous paired ownership.


==Movement notes==
==Movement notes==
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[[File:Ref 3009 movement.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Movement of a Rolex 3009 with bridges engraved Timed 6 Positions, 18 Rubies and Patented Superbalance|The 10½-ligne calibre in a 14K case, bridges engraved TIMED 6 POSITIONS and 18 RUBIES over the Patented Superbalance.]]
[[File:Ref 3009 movement.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Movement of a Rolex 3009 with bridges engraved Timed 6 Positions, 18 Rubies and Patented Superbalance|The 10½-ligne calibre in a 14K case, bridges engraved TIMED 6 POSITIONS and 18 RUBIES over the Patented Superbalance.]]


The catalogues say "cal. 10½′′′" and stop there, which identifies a size rather than a movement. The bridge to an actual designation comes from two independent directions. Boettcher names it the Rolex calibre 700, describing an Aegler design that succeeded the earlier Rebberg movements and was known as the 10½-ligne Hunter. Bonhams reached the same identification from the other end, describing the Kew A reference 6210 as using "a 10-1/2 ligne 700 calibre base movement" recalibrated into the calibre 720. An independent researcher and an auction house arriving at the same identity from different evidence is about as firm as attribution gets for a movement Rolex never publicly named.
The 3009 catalogues say 10½ lignes but do not show a Cal. 700 marking. Boettcher identifies the
10½-ligne Aegler Hunter family as Rolex Cal. 700, and Bonhams describes ref. 6210 as using a
10½-ligne Cal. 700 base modified into Cal. 720. Those sources make Cal. 700 plausible for ref.
3009, but neither is a direct caliber identification of a 3009 movement.


That base was not exclusive to Rolex. Aegler supplied it to Gruen as the calibres 825, 826 and 827, and Boettcher documents a Gruen 826 with indirect centre seconds. The same architecture and the same centre-seconds option sold under a different name on another continent.
That base was not exclusive to Rolex. Aegler supplied it to Gruen as the calibres 825, 826 and 827, and Boettcher documents a Gruen 826 with indirect centre seconds. The same architecture and the same centre-seconds option sold under a different name on another continent.


The 17-jewel and 18-jewel counts scattered across 3009 lots are two grades of one calibre, but they do not sit neatly on Boettcher's ladder, which runs 15 jewels for Prima and 18 for both Extra Prima and Ultra Prima. The 17-jewel examples are the ones described with Superbalance and seven adjustments; the 18-jewel examples are the enamel Scientific dials. No documented source places a 17-jewel grade in the Prima sequence. The adjustment wording varies by house rather than by watch, and "timed to 6 positions", "adjusted to seven positions" and "adjusted in eight ways" should be read as cataloguing convention as much as specification. Boettcher also notes that "Timed 6 positions" and "For all climates" were later additions to bridge engraving, which makes the phrasing itself a rough dating aid.
Catalogues record both 17- and 18-jewel movements, with varying adjustment language. No source
explains the split, and the records do not map cleanly onto Boettcher's general grade hierarchy.
Bridge wording such as “Timed 6 Positions” documents one movement's finish, not a production date.


What those gradings bought was labour. Adjusting for poise and isochronism meant measuring a rate against a regulator over hours, and Boettcher records that in the 1920s and 1930s a minimum of four hours was needed to reveal a small difference, with observatory-standard adjustment running to weeks. The premium on a chronometer-grade movement of this era was mostly the cost of someone's time.
What those gradings bought was labour. Adjusting for poise and isochronism meant measuring a rate against a regulator over hours, and Boettcher records that in the 1920s and 1930s a minimum of four hours was needed to reveal a small difference, with observatory-standard adjustment running to weeks. The premium on a chronometer-grade movement of this era was mostly the cost of someone's time.
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===Indirect centre seconds===
===Indirect centre seconds===


The red seconds hand at the dial's centre is not driven from the going train. An extra wheel rides on an extended third-wheel arbor and drives the centre seconds pinion, an arrangement called indirect centre seconds. Taking the drive from the fourth wheel would give a cleaner 1:1 ratio and is the obvious engineering choice, but as Boettcher explains, it would also run the hand anticlockwise. Watchmakers on the NAWCC board confirm the constraint from practice, one stating flatly that a fourth-wheel arrangement "simply would not work."
Boettcher describes this Aegler family's centre-seconds option as indirect: an extra wheel on an
extended third-wheel arbor drives the centre pinion. This mechanism applies to the centre-seconds
3009 configurations, not the subsidiary-seconds Observatory watch.


Because the seconds pinion sits outside the power flow, it flutters. Backlash lets it kick back and forth with every impulse from the third wheel. The fix is a friction spring that damps the movement, and the fix has a cost. Jack Forster, writing in Hodinkee, puts it most sharply: the tension spring "adds a frictional load to the gear train and if it's not adjusted exactly correctly, you get reduced balance amplitude and therefore, a loss in precision, which is ironic since a center seconds is supposed to be an aid to reading off the seconds more precisely in the first place."
Because the seconds pinion sits outside the power flow, it flutters. Backlash lets it kick back and forth with every impulse from the third wheel. The fix is a friction spring that damps the movement, and the fix has a cost. Jack Forster, writing in Hodinkee, puts it most sharply: the tension spring "adds a frictional load to the gear train and if it's not adjusted exactly correctly, you get reduced balance amplitude and therefore, a loss in precision, which is ironic since a center seconds is supposed to be an aid to reading off the seconds more precisely in the first place."


The 3009 puts the seconds hand where it can be read against a fifths scale at a glance, and pays for the privilege in amplitude.
The friction spring can reduce balance amplitude if adjusted poorly.


==Dial map==
==Dial map==
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[[File:Ref 3009 enamel dial.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=Close view of the white vitreous enamel Scientific dial on a Rolex 3009 showing three concentric tracks and a red centre seconds hand|The Scientific dial at close range: hours on the inner ring, minutes outside them, an outer scale to fifths of a second, and the red centre seconds hand. Hairlines run through the enamel and the word SCIENTIFIC has begun to lose paint.]]
[[File:Ref 3009 enamel dial.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=Close view of the white vitreous enamel Scientific dial on a Rolex 3009 showing three concentric tracks and a red centre seconds hand|The Scientific dial at close range: hours on the inner ring, minutes outside them, an outer scale to fifths of a second, and the red centre seconds hand. Hairlines run through the enamel and the word SCIENTIFIC has begun to lose paint.]]


Five distinct dial configurations appear on the 3009 in the documented record.
Six distinct dial configurations appear on the 3009 in the documented record.


The white enamel Scientific dial is the reference's signature and the reason it is collected. Antiquorum's Hong Kong catalogue gives the clearest description: "white enamel dial with inner Arabic numerals, tracks for hours and separate minutes, outer track calibrated for 5ths of a second, blued steel hour and minute hands, red central seconds hand." Auction houses consistently describe the dial as two-piece. A dealer account claiming the inner disc is fixed to the movement is unsupported elsewhere and contradicted by other descriptions, so the two-piece construction is documented while its mounting is not.
The white enamel Scientific dial is the reference's signature and the reason it is collected. Antiquorum's Hong Kong catalogue gives the clearest description: "white enamel dial with inner Arabic numerals, tracks for hours and separate minutes, outer track calibrated for 5ths of a second, blued steel hour and minute hands, red central seconds hand." Auction houses consistently describe the dial as two-piece. A dealer account claiming the inner disc is fixed to the movement is unsupported elsewhere and contradicted by other descriptions, so the two-piece construction is documented while its mounting is not.
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[[File:Ref 3009 California dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 3009 in 14K yellow gold with a copper-coloured California dial mixing Arabic and Roman numerals|The California dial, case 12818: painted luminous Arabic and Roman numerals with baton indexes. One documented lot, not a production configuration on this evidence.]]
[[File:Ref 3009 California dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 3009 in 14K yellow gold with a copper-coloured California dial mixing Arabic and Roman numerals|The California dial, case 12818: painted luminous Arabic and Roman numerals with baton indexes. One documented lot, not a production configuration on this evidence.]]


The remaining four are conventional by comparison: a champagne dial catalogued as Oyster Royal and Observatory, a restored two-tone silvered centre-seconds dial, a copper-coloured California dial with painted luminous Arabic and Roman numerals and baton indexes, and a silvered baton dial in pink gold. The California example is the outlier of the group, and a single lot does not establish it as a production configuration.
The remaining five are conventional by comparison: a champagne dial catalogued as Oyster Royal and Observatory, a restored two-tone silvered centre-seconds dial, a 24-hour dial with the 13 to 24 numerals printed in red inside the luminous Arabic hours, a copper-coloured California dial with painted luminous Arabic and Roman numerals and baton indexes, and a silvered baton dial in pink gold. The California example is the outlier of the group, and a single lot does not establish it as a production configuration.


===How the enamel dial is made===
===How the enamel dial is made===


[[File:Ref 3009 enamel lettering.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Macro of a Rolex 3009 enamel dial showing worn CHRONOMETRE and SCIENTIFIC lettering and hairline cracks|The authentication test in one frame: the lettering is enamel paint applied over the fired dial, so it thins and breaks up with age, while the hairlines running through the enamel record a dial that has been off the movement.]]
[[File:Ref 3009 enamel lettering.webp|thumb|right|280px|alt=Macro of a Rolex 3009 enamel dial showing worn CHRONOMETRE and SCIENTIFIC lettering and hairline cracks|Paint loss in the model wording and hairline cracks through the enamel on the Christie's example]]


The dials are vitreous enamel, not porcelain. Boettcher describes the process: a copper sheet cut to shape, coated in finely powdered glass, fired at around 800°C, and the process repeated several times, with numerals and tracks added in vitreous painting enamel and fired again. Once fired, vitreous enamel is, in his words, "invulnerable to ageing or fading." Period catalogue copy for these watches made the same claim in period language, describing a dial not susceptible to the normal deterioration caused by atmospheric conditions and time. For once the marketing was technically sound.
The dials are vitreous enamel rather than porcelain. Boettcher describes powdered glass fired onto
a copper base, with numerals and tracks added in vitreous painting enamel. The fired substrate
resists fading, while impacts, flexing and later painted text can still leave visible damage.


Cracks are a handling artefact, not a certificate of originality. A market argument circulates that hairlines prove an untouched watch. Boettcher's account points the other way: vitreous enamel cracks when the dial plate is flexed, typically by levering the dial off without fully releasing the dial screws, or by over-tightening the dial feet. The Christie's pink-gold example carries five separate cracks between 1 and 2, near 3, between 4 and 5, between 7 and 8, and between 10 and 11 o'clock. That is a service history, not a provenance.
Hairline cracks do not prove originality. Boettcher identifies flexing during removal or tightening
as common causes, although the photographs cannot establish when each crack occurred. Christie's
records five separate cracks on its pink-gold example.


Painted lettering, by contrast, should show wear. Boettcher separates the numerals and tracks, which go on in vitreous painting enamel and are fired into the dial, from names applied afterwards in enamel paint, which sticks poorly to the glassy fired surface and often wears badly or vanishes altogether. His authentication test follows from that: a painted name showing no ageing, chipping or flaking was probably added recently. On the 3009 the model words behave like paint rather than fired enamel. Christie's condition report records "a small loss of paint on the words 'chronometre' and 'scientific'," and Lacy Scott & Knight noted red enamel loss on a seconds hand. A Scientific dial whose two key words look crisp and perfect is the one to question.
Boettcher separates fired numerals and tracks from names painted onto the finished enamel surface.
He treats unnaturally fresh painted wording as a warning, not proof of later work. Christie's
records paint loss on “chronometre” and “scientific,and Lacy Scott & Knight records red loss
from a seconds hand.


==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
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[[File:Ref 3009 caseback 18k.webp|thumb|right|260px|alt=Inner caseback of an 18K Rolex 3009 showing the coronet, the 0.750-18K fineness mark and the reference number|The same case in 18K, marked 0.750-18K under the coronet with the reference number below.]]
[[File:Ref 3009 caseback 18k.webp|thumb|right|260px|alt=Inner caseback of an 18K Rolex 3009 showing the coronet, the 0.750-18K fineness mark and the reference number|The same case in 18K, marked 0.750-18K under the coronet with the reference number below.]]


The case is a two-piece tonneau Oyster with a screw-down back and screw-down crown, the waterproof construction Rolex had been building since 1926, here in precious metal rather than steel. No steel 3009 has surfaced in the documented lots; the record runs 9ct, 14K yellow, 18K yellow and 18K pink gold.
The catalogued tonneau cases have screw-down backs and crowns. Auction descriptions vary between
two- and three-body construction. No steel example appears in the sourced record; documented
materials include 9ct, 14K and 18K yellow or pink gold.


[[File:Ref 3009 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009 in 18K pink gold with a white enamel dial|The 18K pink gold example, catalogued at 33mm and the only one in the record above 31mm.]]
[[File:Ref 3009 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009 in 18K pink gold with a white enamel dial|The 18K pink gold example, catalogued at 33mm and the only one in the record above 31mm.]]


The reported diameters look inconsistent and mostly are not. Ten of twelve measured lots give 31mm, with one at 30mm and one at 33mm. A tonneau case has no single honest diameter: measured across the bezel, across the case band, or including the crown, the figure moves by a millimetre or two, which covers the entire spread. The clearest illustration comes from the sibling reference 2942, where one description gives 30.5mm without the crown and 32mm with it, in the same sentence. 31mm is the working figure. The 33mm Christie's example is the only one above 31 and is also the only 18K pink gold case in the group, so a genuinely larger variant cannot be ruled out on one lot, but neither can it be asserted.
Catalogued diameters range from 30 to 33mm and most are 31mm. The records do not establish whether
the spread comes from measurement method or a larger case variant.


==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==


Nothing on the 3009 is original below the case. The Antiquorum Hong Kong example arrived on a GEMEX integrated bracelet with a deployant clasp; another wore a 9ct Rolex riveted expandable bracelet stamped 4.67, dating the bracelet to 1967 and saying nothing about a watch head from the 1930s; a third came on a later leather strap. Eighty years of straps and bracelets have cycled through these watches, and a clasp code dates the bracelet alone.
No original-delivery bracelet is established. The Antiquorum Hong Kong example had a GEMEX
integrated bracelet; another wore a 9ct Rolex expandable bracelet stamped 4.67, which dates the
bracelet rather than the watch head. Other examples appear on leather straps.


One example retains something better than a bracelet. The 18ct gold indirect-centre-seconds watch sold at Dreweatts, case 37791, came with its original Manchester retailer's presentation box.
One example retains something better than a bracelet. The 18ct gold indirect-centre-seconds watch sold at Dreweatts, case 37791, came with its original Manchester retailer's presentation box.
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==Retailer and provenance branches==
==Retailer and provenance branches==


Documented provenance on the 3009 is thin but not empty. One pink-gold example sold at Antiquorum in 2006 carries a caseback presentation engraving reading "Officers of the 107th Cavalry to Col. Woods King, Nov. 29. 1943." Woods King commanded the 107th Cavalry of the Ohio National Guard, which makes this the only 3009 in the record with named period ownership. The engraving records a presentation, not military issue.
One pink-gold example sold by Antiquorum in 2006 has a caseback engraving reading “Officers of
the 107th Cavalry to Col. Woods King, Nov. 29, 1943.The engraving documents a presentation;
it does not establish military issue.


Retailer signatures appear on the wider Scientific family more than on the 3009 itself. The Asprey-retailed Imperial Chronometre Scientific is a reference 3116, not a 3009. Among 3009s, only the Manchester box and, on the sibling 2942, an unnamed English retailer's dial signature have surfaced.
Retailer signatures appear on the wider Scientific family more than on the 3009 itself. The Asprey-retailed Imperial Chronometre Scientific is a reference 3116, not a 3009. Among documented 3009s the Manchester box is the only retailer artefact to have surfaced, alongside an unnamed English retailer's dial signature on the sibling 2942.


==Auction record==
==Auction record==


Twelve lots with recoverable results or outcomes, across six houses.
Fourteen sourced auction appearances across seven houses.


{| class="wikitable"
{| class="wikitable"
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| 37791
| 37791
| est. GBP 4,000–6,000
| est. GBP 4,000–6,000
|-
| Heritage, sale 5309
| 24 Oct 2017
| 14K pink gold, silvered baton, 17j, Speedking Precision heading
| 56568
| result not published
|-
|-
| Christie's, Swiss Icons
| Christie's, Swiss Icons
Line 213: Line 260:
|-
|-
| Bonhams, London 25397
| Bonhams, London 25397
| 10 Sep 2019
| 19 Sep 2019
| 9K, enamel, Glasgow import mark 1937
| 9K, enamel, Glasgow import mark 1937
| 37845
| 37845
| withdrawn
| withdrawn
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong 351
| 29 May 2022
| 18K yellow gold, silvered, centre seconds, catalogued Oyster Perpetual
| 474700
| est. HKD 30,000–40,000
|-
| Antiquorum, Hong Kong 361
| 13 Jun 2023
| 14K yellow gold, 24-hour dial, centre seconds, catalogued Bubbleback
| 46704
| est. HKD 35,000–50,000
|-
|-
| Lacy Scott & Knight
| Lacy Scott & Knight
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| 39250
| 39250
| GBP 4,000
| GBP 4,000
|-
| Sotheby's, Important Watches
| 15 Jun 2026
| 18K yellow gold, enamel sector, circa 1937
| 39069
| est. USD 7,000–14,000
|}
|}


The white enamel Scientific dial commands a clear premium over the champagne and silvered configurations. The two Lacy Scott & Knight results, GBP 5,200 and GBP 4,000 for near-identical 9ct examples a month apart, are the cleanest read available on where the enamel dial sits in a general saleroom.
Lacy Scott & Knight sold the two consecutive-numbered 9ct enamel examples for GBP 5,200 and
GBP 4,000. The broader record mixes case metals, dial conditions and currencies, so it does not
isolate an enamel-dial premium reliably.


A caution on the record: two Lacy Scott & Knight entries describe an "automatic 18-jewel movement." The same entries also describe a seconds hand "powered indirectly from the movement with an extra train of wheels," which is an indirect-centre-seconds construction and incompatible with the automatic claim. It is one cataloguer's copy-paste across two sibling lots. No automatic 3009 exists in the record, and six houses describe the movement as manual.
Two Lacy Scott & Knight entries describe an “automatic 18-jewel movement,” using the same
catalogue paragraph. Indirect centre seconds does not contradict automatic winding, so that line
cannot be dismissed on mechanical grounds alone. The wider auction record describes manual
movements, including Antiquorum's lots titled Bubbleback and Oyster Perpetual. Without a clear
movement identification for the LSK watches, the repeated automatic wording remains a catalogue
discrepancy rather than a confirmed variant or a disproved claim.


== Related references ==
== Related references ==
Line 247: Line 307:
* [[Reference:6541|Milgauss 6541]] — the later anti-magnetic answer to the same professional market
* [[Reference:6541|Milgauss 6541]] — the later anti-magnetic answer to the same professional market


See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].
See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|early Oyster and Bubbleback index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
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* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-swiss-icons/rolex-18k-oyster-chronometer-scientific-enamel-dial-ref-3009-174/56374 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: Swiss Icons, Lot 174 — Rolex 18K Oyster Chronometer Scientific with enamel dial, ref. 3009", Christie's, 2018-05-08]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/christies-watches-online-swiss-icons/rolex-18k-oyster-chronometer-scientific-enamel-dial-ref-3009-174/56374 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: Swiss Icons, Lot 174 — Rolex 18K Oyster Chronometer Scientific with enamel dial, ref. 3009", Christie's, 2018-05-08]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3009-scientific-lot-320-469 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong, Lot 320 — Rolex ref. 3009, 9K Oyster Chronometer Scientific with enamel dial, mechanical", Antiquorum, 2019-04-28]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3009-scientific-lot-320-469 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong, Lot 320 — Rolex ref. 3009, 9K Oyster Chronometer Scientific with enamel dial, mechanical", Antiquorum, 2019-04-28]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3009-flat-bubbleback-lot-361-48 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong, Lot 361-48 — Rolex ref. 3009, 14K yellow gold, 24-hour dial, case 46704, movement E12593", Antiquorum, 2023-06-13]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-3009-oyster-perpetual-lot-351-250 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong, Lot 351-250 — Rolex ref. 3009, 18K yellow gold, catalogued Oyster Perpetual, case 474700, movement E34204, circa 1959", Antiquorum, 2022-05-29]
* [https://jewelry.ha.com/itm/timepieces/wristwatch/rolex-ref-3009-pink-gold-oyster-speedking-precision-circa-1935/a/5309-54137.s Heritage Auctions, "Heritage sale 5309, Lot 54137 — Rolex ref. 3009 Pink Gold Oyster Speedking Precision, circa 1935, case 56568, movement 15204", Heritage Auctions, 2017-10-24]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25397/lot/41/rolex-a-9k-gold-manual-wind-chronometer-wristwatch-oyster-ref-3009-glasgow-import-mark-for-1937/ Bonhams, "Bonhams sale 25397, Lot 41 — Rolex 9K gold manual wind chronometer wristwatch, Oyster ref. 3009, Glasgow import mark for 1937", Bonhams, 2019-09-10]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25397/lot/41/rolex-a-9k-gold-manual-wind-chronometer-wristwatch-oyster-ref-3009-glasgow-import-mark-for-1937/ Bonhams, "Bonhams sale 25397, Lot 41 — Rolex 9K gold manual wind chronometer wristwatch, Oyster ref. 3009, Glasgow import mark for 1937", Bonhams, 2019-09-10]
* [https://www.lskauctioncentre.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2595---a-rolex-9ct-gold-oyster-chronometer-scientific/?lot=607957&au=878&g=1 Lacy Scott & Knight, "Lacy Scott & Knight, Lot 2595 — Rolex 9ct gold Oyster Chronometer Scientific, ref. 3009, case 39251", Lacy Scott & Knight, 2025-05-20]
* [https://www.lskauctioncentre.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2595---a-rolex-9ct-gold-oyster-chronometer-scientific/?lot=607957&au=878&g=1 Lacy Scott & Knight, "Lacy Scott & Knight, Lot 2595 — Rolex 9ct gold Oyster Chronometer Scientific, ref. 3009, case 39251", Lacy Scott & Knight, 2025-05-20]
* [https://www.lskauctioncentre.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2150---a-rolex-9ct-gold-oyster-chronometer-scientific/?lot=614051&au=886&g=1 Lacy Scott & Knight, "Lacy Scott & Knight, Lot 2150 — Rolex 9ct gold Oyster Chronometer Scientific, ref. 3009, case 39250", Lacy Scott & Knight, 2025-06-14]
* [https://www.lskauctioncentre.co.uk/auction/lot/lot-2150---a-rolex-9ct-gold-oyster-chronometer-scientific/?lot=614051&au=886&g=1 Lacy Scott & Knight, "Lacy Scott & Knight, Lot 2150 — Rolex 9ct gold Oyster Chronometer Scientific, ref. 3009, case 39250", Lacy Scott & Knight, 2025-06-14]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-7 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection, Lot 108 — Rolex ref. 3116", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14]
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster/ref-rolex-3009/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster reference 3009 auction index", Collector Square]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-7 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection, Lot 7 — Rolex ref. 3116 'Royal', case 148000, made 1940", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29155/lot/19/rolex-an-extremely-rare-18k-gold-kew-a-manual-wind-wristwatch-rolex-oyster-observatory-chronometer-ref-6210-circa-1955/ Bonhams, "Bonhams sale 29155, Lot 19 — Rolex 18K gold Kew A manual wind wristwatch, Oyster Observatory Chronometer, ref. 6210, circa 1955", Bonhams, 2021-01-01]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29155/lot/19/rolex-an-extremely-rare-18k-gold-kew-a-manual-wind-wristwatch-rolex-oyster-observatory-chronometer-ref-6210-circa-1955/ Bonhams, "Bonhams sale 29155, Lot 19 — Rolex 18K gold Kew A manual wind wristwatch, Oyster Observatory Chronometer, ref. 6210, circa 1955", Bonhams, 2021-01-01]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/aegler.php David Boettcher, "Aegler, Fabrique Rebberg — vintagewatchstraps.com", vintagewatchstraps.com, 2026-03-31]
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/aegler.php David Boettcher, "Aegler, Fabrique Rebberg — vintagewatchstraps.com", vintagewatchstraps.com, 2026-03-31]
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* [https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/indirect-centre-seconds-why-drive-off-the-third-wheel.96472/ NAWCC members including doug sinclair, "Indirect centre seconds — why drive off the third wheel? (NAWCC Message Board)", NAWCC, 2020-01-01]
* [https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/indirect-centre-seconds-why-drive-off-the-third-wheel.96472/ NAWCC members including doug sinclair, "Indirect centre seconds — why drive off the third wheel? (NAWCC Message Board)", NAWCC, 2020-01-01]
* [https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/30s-rolex-oyster-questions.50364/ NAWCC members, "1930s Rolex Oyster questions (NAWCC Message Board)", NAWCC, 2015-01-01]
* [https://mb.nawcc.org/threads/30s-rolex-oyster-questions.50364/ NAWCC members, "1930s Rolex Oyster questions (NAWCC Message Board)", NAWCC, 2015-01-01]
[[Category:Oyster]]
[[Category:Oyster]]

Latest revision as of 23:30, 23 August 2026


Oyster → 3009

The best-known ref. 3009 has a white vitreous-enamel dial divided into hour, minute and fifths-of-a-second tracks, with a red centre seconds hand. The same case reference also appears with champagne, silvered, 24-hour and California layouts, including one subsidiary-seconds watch.

Most auction descriptions identify manual movements. Sotheby's has used a “Bubbleback Flatback” heading, and Antiquorum has used Bubbleback and Oyster Perpetual headings while describing manual winding in the lot text. Two Lacy Scott & Knight entries instead say automatic, using identical catalogue copy; no published caliber identification or clear movement assessment resolves that discrepancy. Hodinkee describes the ref. 3009 it illustrates as a manual-wind flatback.

Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific ref 3009 in 9K gold with a white enamel three-track dial
Rolex Oyster Chronometre “Scientific” 3009 in 9K gold, Antiquorum Hong Kong 2019

Core facts

detail value
reference 3009
model designations Oyster Chronometre "Scientific"; also catalogued as Oyster Royal, Observatory, and Oyster Chronometer
production no documented range; Glasgow import mark for 1937 and a presentation inscription dated 1947 are the firm dated observations
case diameter 30–33mm in catalogues, most often 31mm
observed dimensions 10mm thick on several catalogue records; 17mm lug width and 27.3g on one LSK example
case shape tonneau / barrel
case construction catalogued as two- or three-body; screw-down back and crown
case materials 9ct gold, 14K yellow gold, 14K pink gold, 18K yellow gold, 18K pink gold
crystal material not established across the cited catalogues
movement manual 10½-ligne movements documented; Aegler Hunter / Cal. 700 is a probable family attribution, not a visible caliber marking
jewels 17 or 18
adjustment variously "timed to 6 positions", "adjusted to seven positions", "adjusted in eight ways"
seconds centre seconds on most catalogued watches; subsidiary seconds on the Observatory example
signature dial two-piece white vitreous enamel, three tracks, fifths-of-a-second outer scale

Where it sits in the line

Early Oyster case references could carry several marketed names. Antiquorum notes that ref. 3116 appeared as Royal, Viceroy and Imperial, plus chronometer-labelled Imperial and Observatory variants.

Ref. 3009 follows the same pattern. Auction catalogues use Chronometre Scientific, Oyster Royal, Observatory, Oyster Chronometer and Speedking Precision. “Scientific” appears on the white enamel dial, but it does not identify a single case material, movement grade or seconds layout.

David Boettcher describes Prima, Extra Prima and Ultra Prima as movement grades rather than calibers. The documented 3009 jewel counts and adjustment descriptions do not map cleanly onto that broader ladder, so the dial wording should not be used to infer a grade.

Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009 in 9K gold carrying a Glasgow import hallmark for 1937
Case 37845, the example whose Glasgow import mark for 1937 is the only compulsory-dated anchor in the reference's record.

Production outline

Dating this reference honestly means admitting how little is fixed. Auction houses have assigned examples to circa 1930, circa 1935, circa 1937 and circa 1944, and those estimates do not reconcile against case numbers. The one hard anchor in the whole documented record is the Glasgow import mark for 1937 on case 37845, sold through Bonhams. British assay and import marks carry a compulsory date letter, which makes them the reliable dating instrument for pre-1948 Rolex in a way that catalogue estimates are not.

The observed case numbers include 12818, 37791, 37840, 37845, 39218, 39250, 39251, 46704, 56568 and 474700. The last belongs to the watch Antiquorum dated circa 1959 and titled Oyster Perpetual despite describing manual winding. Its outer caseback has a presentation inscription dated 1947, which also conflicts with the catalogue date. Neither date establishes the production run.

Lacy Scott & Knight sold consecutive cases 39251 and 39250 four weeks apart in 2025. Both are 9ct-gold watches with later monograms. The records suggest a relationship but do not prove shared delivery or continuous paired ownership.

Movement notes

Movement of a Rolex 3009 with bridges engraved Timed 6 Positions, 18 Rubies and Patented Superbalance
The 10½-ligne calibre in a 14K case, bridges engraved TIMED 6 POSITIONS and 18 RUBIES over the Patented Superbalance.

The 3009 catalogues say 10½ lignes but do not show a Cal. 700 marking. Boettcher identifies the 10½-ligne Aegler Hunter family as Rolex Cal. 700, and Bonhams describes ref. 6210 as using a 10½-ligne Cal. 700 base modified into Cal. 720. Those sources make Cal. 700 plausible for ref. 3009, but neither is a direct caliber identification of a 3009 movement.

That base was not exclusive to Rolex. Aegler supplied it to Gruen as the calibres 825, 826 and 827, and Boettcher documents a Gruen 826 with indirect centre seconds. The same architecture and the same centre-seconds option sold under a different name on another continent.

Catalogues record both 17- and 18-jewel movements, with varying adjustment language. No source explains the split, and the records do not map cleanly onto Boettcher's general grade hierarchy. Bridge wording such as “Timed 6 Positions” documents one movement's finish, not a production date.

What those gradings bought was labour. Adjusting for poise and isochronism meant measuring a rate against a regulator over hours, and Boettcher records that in the 1920s and 1930s a minimum of four hours was needed to reveal a small difference, with observatory-standard adjustment running to weeks. The premium on a chronometer-grade movement of this era was mostly the cost of someone's time.

Indirect centre seconds

Boettcher describes this Aegler family's centre-seconds option as indirect: an extra wheel on an extended third-wheel arbor drives the centre pinion. This mechanism applies to the centre-seconds 3009 configurations, not the subsidiary-seconds Observatory watch.

Because the seconds pinion sits outside the power flow, it flutters. Backlash lets it kick back and forth with every impulse from the third wheel. The fix is a friction spring that damps the movement, and the fix has a cost. Jack Forster, writing in Hodinkee, puts it most sharply: the tension spring "adds a frictional load to the gear train and if it's not adjusted exactly correctly, you get reduced balance amplitude and therefore, a loss in precision, which is ironic since a center seconds is supposed to be an aid to reading off the seconds more precisely in the first place."

The friction spring can reduce balance amplitude if adjusted poorly.

Dial map

Close view of the white vitreous enamel Scientific dial on a Rolex 3009 showing three concentric tracks and a red centre seconds hand
The Scientific dial at close range: hours on the inner ring, minutes outside them, an outer scale to fifths of a second, and the red centre seconds hand. Hairlines run through the enamel and the word SCIENTIFIC has begun to lose paint.

Six distinct dial configurations appear on the 3009 in the documented record.

The white enamel Scientific dial is the reference's signature and the reason it is collected. Antiquorum's Hong Kong catalogue gives the clearest description: "white enamel dial with inner Arabic numerals, tracks for hours and separate minutes, outer track calibrated for 5ths of a second, blued steel hour and minute hands, red central seconds hand." Auction houses consistently describe the dial as two-piece. A dealer account claiming the inner disc is fixed to the movement is unsupported elsewhere and contradicted by other descriptions, so the two-piece construction is documented while its mounting is not.

Rolex Oyster Chronometre 3009 in 18K yellow gold with a silvered dial, applied gold Arabic numerals and centre seconds
The plain silvered configuration in 18K yellow gold, applied gold Arabic numerals and a blued centre seconds hand, catalogued simply as an Oyster Chronomètre.
Rolex 3009 in 14K yellow gold with a 24-hour dial carrying inner red numerals 13 to 24
A 24-hour dial on the same case reference: luminous Arabic hours with the 13 to 24 numerals printed in red inside them, case 46704.
Rolex Oyster Royal Observatory 3009 in 9K gold with a champagne dial and subsidiary seconds
The champagne dial signed ROLEX OYSTER ROYAL over OBSERVATORY, case 37840, here with subsidiary seconds at 6 rather than the centre seconds of the Scientific.
Rolex 3009 in 14K yellow gold with a copper-coloured California dial mixing Arabic and Roman numerals
The California dial, case 12818: painted luminous Arabic and Roman numerals with baton indexes. One documented lot, not a production configuration on this evidence.

The remaining five are conventional by comparison: a champagne dial catalogued as Oyster Royal and Observatory, a restored two-tone silvered centre-seconds dial, a 24-hour dial with the 13 to 24 numerals printed in red inside the luminous Arabic hours, a copper-coloured California dial with painted luminous Arabic and Roman numerals and baton indexes, and a silvered baton dial in pink gold. The California example is the outlier of the group, and a single lot does not establish it as a production configuration.

How the enamel dial is made

Macro of a Rolex 3009 enamel dial showing worn CHRONOMETRE and SCIENTIFIC lettering and hairline cracks
Paint loss in the model wording and hairline cracks through the enamel on the Christie's example

The dials are vitreous enamel rather than porcelain. Boettcher describes powdered glass fired onto a copper base, with numerals and tracks added in vitreous painting enamel. The fired substrate resists fading, while impacts, flexing and later painted text can still leave visible damage.

Hairline cracks do not prove originality. Boettcher identifies flexing during removal or tightening as common causes, although the photographs cannot establish when each crack occurred. Christie's records five separate cracks on its pink-gold example.

Boettcher separates fired numerals and tracks from names painted onto the finished enamel surface. He treats unnaturally fresh painted wording as a warning, not proof of later work. Christie's records paint loss on “chronometre” and “scientific,” and Lacy Scott & Knight records red loss from a seconds hand.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

Inner caseback of a 14K Rolex 3009 stamped Rolex 31 Victoires de Haute Precision with the RWC Ltd sponsor mark and 0.585-14K fineness mark
Inner caseback of a 14K example: the 31 Victoires legend, the R.W.C. LTD sponsor's mark in its oval, the 0.585-14K fineness mark, and the reference number stamped down the left edge.
Inner caseback of an 18K Rolex 3009 showing the coronet, the 0.750-18K fineness mark and the reference number
The same case in 18K, marked 0.750-18K under the coronet with the reference number below.

The catalogued tonneau cases have screw-down backs and crowns. Auction descriptions vary between two- and three-body construction. No steel example appears in the sourced record; documented materials include 9ct, 14K and 18K yellow or pink gold.

Rolex Oyster Chronometre Scientific 3009 in 18K pink gold with a white enamel dial
The 18K pink gold example, catalogued at 33mm and the only one in the record above 31mm.

Catalogued diameters range from 30 to 33mm and most are 31mm. The records do not establish whether the spread comes from measurement method or a larger case variant.

Bracelets, end links, and clasps

No original-delivery bracelet is established. The Antiquorum Hong Kong example had a GEMEX integrated bracelet; another wore a 9ct Rolex expandable bracelet stamped 4.67, which dates the bracelet rather than the watch head. Other examples appear on leather straps.

One example retains something better than a bracelet. The 18ct gold indirect-centre-seconds watch sold at Dreweatts, case 37791, came with its original Manchester retailer's presentation box.

Retailer and provenance branches

One pink-gold example sold by Antiquorum in 2006 has a caseback engraving reading “Officers of the 107th Cavalry to Col. Woods King, Nov. 29, 1943.” The engraving documents a presentation; it does not establish military issue.

Retailer signatures appear on the wider Scientific family more than on the 3009 itself. The Asprey-retailed Imperial Chronometre Scientific is a reference 3116, not a 3009. Among documented 3009s the Manchester box is the only retailer artefact to have surfaced, alongside an unnamed English retailer's dial signature on the sibling 2942.

Auction record

Fourteen sourced auction appearances across seven houses.

Sale Date Configuration Case Result
Sotheby's, Hong Kong HK0206 27 Apr 2004 pink gold, centre seconds not sold
Antiquorum, New York 151 7 Dec 2006 pink gold, brown dial, 17j; Woods King presentation USD 3,776
Bonhams, New York 15422 6 Dec 2007 9ct, restored two-tone silvered, 18j, 30mm USD 1,080
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 252 25 Jun 2011 9ct, champagne, Oyster Royal / Observatory, 17j 37840 HKD 35,000
Antiquorum, New York 271 10 Apr 2013 14K yellow gold, California dial, 17j 12818 USD 2,500
Dreweatts, Donnington Priory 26 Mar 2015 18ct, enamel, indirect centre seconds, retailer box 37791 est. GBP 4,000–6,000
Heritage, sale 5309 24 Oct 2017 14K pink gold, silvered baton, 17j, Speedking Precision heading 56568 result not published
Christie's, Swiss Icons 8 May 2018 18K pink gold, white enamel, 33mm est. USD 4,000–6,000
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 28 Apr 2019 9K, white enamel Scientific, 31mm 39218 HKD 42,500
Bonhams, London 25397 19 Sep 2019 9K, enamel, Glasgow import mark 1937 37845 withdrawn
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 351 29 May 2022 18K yellow gold, silvered, centre seconds, catalogued Oyster Perpetual 474700 est. HKD 30,000–40,000
Antiquorum, Hong Kong 361 13 Jun 2023 14K yellow gold, 24-hour dial, centre seconds, catalogued Bubbleback 46704 est. HKD 35,000–50,000
Lacy Scott & Knight 20 May 2025 9ct, white enamel Scientific, 31mm 39251 GBP 5,200
Lacy Scott & Knight 14 Jun 2025 9ct, white enamel Scientific 39250 GBP 4,000

Lacy Scott & Knight sold the two consecutive-numbered 9ct enamel examples for GBP 5,200 and GBP 4,000. The broader record mixes case metals, dial conditions and currencies, so it does not isolate an enamel-dial premium reliably.

Two Lacy Scott & Knight entries describe an “automatic 18-jewel movement,” using the same catalogue paragraph. Indirect centre seconds does not contradict automatic winding, so that line cannot be dismissed on mechanical grounds alone. The wider auction record describes manual movements, including Antiquorum's lots titled Bubbleback and Oyster Perpetual. Without a clear movement identification for the LSK watches, the repeated automatic wording remains a catalogue discrepancy rather than a confirmed variant or a disproved claim.

Related references

See also the early Oyster and Bubbleback index, movement reference, bracelet & clasp guide, and serial numbers by year.

Sources