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[bot-audit] proposal #16 ref=116400 agents=researcher,auditor,image_scout (FlaggedRevs pending review)
 
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<small>[[Reference:milgauss|Milgauss]] -> '''116400'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:milgauss|Milgauss]] -> '''116400'''</small>


[[File:Ref 116400 hero.webp|thumb|right|360px|alt=Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue — electric-blue zirconium-sunburst lacquer under the Glace Verte sapphire crystal, the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Image via Monochrome.|Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue — electric-blue zirconium-sunburst lacquer under the Glace Verte sapphire crystal, the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Image via Monochrome.]]
The 116400 is the Milgauss revival. Rolex unveiled it at Baselworld March 2007, nineteen years after 1019 production ended and at the fiftieth anniversary of the 1956 6541 catalogue launch. The brief inverts the 1019's reading: where the 1019 stripped the 6541's signatures for a dress-coded antimagnetic Oyster, the 116400 revives the lightning-bolt seconds hand and adds the green sapphire crystal that only the Milgauss line has ever worn. Four sub-references run across sixteen years, two with clear sapphire crystals (white dial 116400-0002 and black dial 116400-0001) and two with the Glace Verte green-tinted sapphire (Z-Black 116400GV-0001 and the 2014 Z-Blue 116400GV-0002). The line ends at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 with the 116400GV discontinuation. Rolex has not announced a Milgauss successor.


The 116400 is the Milgauss revival. Rolex unveiled it at Baselworld March 2007, nineteen years after the 1019 production end and at the fiftieth anniversary of the 1956 6541 catalog launch. The brief inverts the 1019's: where the 1019 stripped the 6541's signatures for a dress-coded antimagnetic Oyster, the 116400 revives the lightning-bolt seconds hand and adds the green sapphire crystal that only the Milgauss line has ever worn. Four sub-references run across sixteen years — two with clear sapphire crystals (white dial 116400-0002 and black dial 116400-0001) and two with the Glace Verte green-tinted sapphire (Z-Black 116400GV-0001 and the 2014 Z-Blue 116400GV-0002). The line ends at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 with the 116400GV discontinuation. Rolex has not announced a Milgauss successor.
[[File:Ref 116400 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue — electric-blue zirconium-sunburst lacquer under the Glace Verte sapphire crystal, the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Image via Monochrome.|Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue — electric-blue zirconium-sunburst lacquer under the Glace Verte sapphire crystal, the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Image via Monochrome.]]


==Core facts==
==Core facts==
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==Where it sits in the line==
==Where it sits in the line==


The 116400 closes the Milgauss line. The 6541 opens the line in 1956 with the antimagnetic Faraday-cage architecture and the lightning-bolt seconds. The 1019 runs the dress-coded silhouette through 1988 and then the line sits empty for nineteen years. Rolex revives the reference in 2007 with the 50th-anniversary GV, runs four sub-references for sixteen years, and closes the line in 2023. No successor.
The 116400 closes the Milgauss line. The 6541 opens it in 1956 with the antimagnetic Faraday-cage architecture and the lightning-bolt seconds. The 1019 carries the dress-coded silhouette through 1988, after which the line sits empty for nineteen years. Rolex revives the reference in 2007 with the 50th-anniversary GV, runs four sub-references for sixteen years, and closes the line in 2023 with no successor.


The architectural continuity with the [[Reference:milgauss#Faraday cage — the line's defining feature|Faraday cage]] is direct: modern ferromagnetic alloys replace the original soft iron, and the case carries a "B with arrow" engraving on the inner cage assembly as the modern shielding signature, but the structural concept is unchanged. The case grows from 38mm to 40mm to match contemporary sport-line dimensions. The lightning-bolt seconds hand revives the 6541 signature in orange, and reads more cartoonish than its 1957 forebear (itself the design choice that pushed Rolex toward the dress-coded 1019).
The architectural continuity with the [[Reference:milgauss#Faraday cage — the line's defining feature|Faraday cage]] is direct. Modern ferromagnetic alloys replace the original soft iron, and the case carries a "B with arrow" engraving on the inner cage assembly as the modern shielding signature, but the structural concept is unchanged. The case grows from 38mm to 40mm to match contemporary sport-line dimensions. The lightning-bolt seconds hand revives the 6541 signature in orange, and reads more cartoonish than its 1957 forebear (itself the design choice that pushed Rolex toward the dress-coded 1019).


Inside the 116400, caliber 3131 is the time-only sister of cal 3135. Same architecture without the date wheel and quickset. Parachrom Blu hairspring (paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy) sits on top of the Faraday cage's mechanical shielding; the 3131 is one of the most modern antimagnetic movements in Rolex's catalogue, and the Faraday cage at this point is partially redundant. The cage stays because the Milgauss without it is just an Oyster Perpetual.
Inside the 116400, caliber 3131 is the time-only sister of cal 3135. Same architecture without the date wheel and quickset. A Parachrom Blu hairspring in paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy sits on top of the Faraday cage's mechanical shielding, which makes the 3131 one of the most modern antimagnetic movements in Rolex's catalogue and the Faraday cage at this point partially redundant. The cage stays because the Milgauss without it is just an Oyster Perpetual.


==Production outline==
==Production outline==
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===Launch — Baselworld March 2007===
===Launch — Baselworld March 2007===


Rolex revives the Milgauss at Baselworld 2007 with three variants: the white-dial clear-crystal 116400-0002, the black-dial clear-crystal 116400-0001, and the black-dial green-crystal 116400GV-0001 (Z-Black). The launch coincides with CERN completing the Large Hadron Collider, and Rolex sends pre-production 116400 examples to CERN for testing — a deliberate echo of the original 6541 development brief. The 2007 anniversary year frames the green crystal as the 50th-anniversary signal even though the 116400 is positioned as a continuous catalogue revival rather than a limited-edition release.
Rolex revives the Milgauss at Baselworld 2007 with three variants: the white-dial clear-crystal 116400-0002, the black-dial clear-crystal 116400-0001, and the black-dial green-crystal 116400GV-0001 (Z-Black). The launch landed during the LHC commissioning period at CERN, before first beam in September 2008., and Rolex sends pre-production 116400 examples to CERN for testing, a deliberate echo of the original 6541 development brief. The 2007 anniversary year frames the green crystal as the 50th-anniversary signal even though the 116400 is positioned as a continuous catalogue revival rather than a limited-edition release. Launch retail was USD 6,200.
 
Launch retail: USD 6,200.


===Sub-reference cutoff (c. 2013 to 2014)===
===Sub-reference cutoff (c. 2013 to 2014)===


The 116400-0001 black-dial clear-crystal is the first sub-reference to drop. Sources split between 2013 and 2014 — collector dates derive from catalogue absence and AD last-shipped reports rather than an official Rolex EOL announcement. The drop times to the Z-Blue launch.
The 116400-0001 black-dial clear-crystal is the first sub-reference to drop. Sources split between 2013 and 2014. Collector dates derive from catalogue absence and AD last-shipped reports rather than an official Rolex EOL announcement. The drop times to the Z-Blue launch.


===Z-Blue launch — Baselworld March 2014===
===Z-Blue launch — Baselworld March 2014===
[[File:Ref 116400 zblue dial.webp|thumb|right|320px|alt=Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue dial — electric-blue sunburst under the Glace Verte green sapphire crystal. Orange lightning-bolt seconds hand and orange MILGAUSS text at 12 are the signature accents.|116400GV Z-Blue — the 2014 introduction. Electric-blue sunburst dial against the Glace Verte green sapphire crystal. The only blue dial ever in the Milgauss line.]]


The 116400GV-0002 Z-Blue replaces the discontinued non-GV black in the catalogue. Electric blue sunburst lacquer pigmented with zirconium (hence "Z"), under the green Glace Verte crystal — the dial reads aqua/turquoise through the green tint, shifting from deep blue to aqua-blue with green reflections depending on light angle. Retail jumps to USD 8,200.
 
The 116400GV-0002 Z-Blue replaces the discontinued non-GV black in the catalogue. Electric-blue sunburst lacquer pigmented with zirconium (hence "Z") sits under the green Glace Verte crystal. The dial reads aqua and turquoise through the green tint, shifting from deep blue to aqua-blue with green reflections depending on light angle. Retail jumps to USD 8,200.


===White-dial clear-crystal end (2016)===
===White-dial clear-crystal end (2016)===
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===Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023===
===Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023===


The entire Milgauss line is discontinued at Watches & Wonders 2023. The 116400GV-0001 Z-Black and 116400GV-0002 Z-Blue both leave production. Last published retail USD 9,150 to 9,300. No successor announced. Sixty-seven years after the 6541 entered the catalogue, the Milgauss line closes.
The entire Milgauss line is discontinued at Watches & Wonders 2023. The 116400GV-0001 Z-Black and 116400GV-0002 Z-Blue both leave production. Last published retail ran USD 9,150 to 9,300. No successor announced. Sixty-seven years after the 6541 entered the catalogue, the Milgauss line closes.


==Movement notes==
==Movement notes==


Caliber 3131.
Caliber 3131 is a 28.5mm time-only chronometer movement running 31 jewels at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), with bidirectional rotor winding and roughly a 48-hour power reserve. It hacks; the crown winds clockwise only. The hairspring is Parachrom Blu (paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy), and the rest of the movement leans on amagnetic material choices in the escapement, screws, and mainplate components. Earliest production carries Kif shock protection; later examples use Paraflex. No date wheel, no quickset, COSC chronometer certified.
 
Specifications:
 
* 28.5mm diameter
* 31 jewels
* 28,800 vph / 4 Hz
* Approximately 48-hour power reserve
* Bidirectional rotor winding
* Hacking seconds; clockwise crown winding only
* Parachrom Blu hairspring — paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy
* Paraflex shock protection (Kif on earliest examples)
* Time only — no date (consistent across the entire Milgauss line)
* COSC chronometer certified


The 3131 is the time-only sister of cal 3135. Same architecture, no date wheel, no quickset. Differs from the cal 3130 (in the 14060M Submariner no-date and 114270 Explorer) primarily by the Parachrom hairspring and amagnetic material choices in the escapement, screws, and mainplate components. Differs from the cal 3132 (Explorer 214270) by retaining Kif rather than Paraflex on earliest production. The same cal 3131 is fitted to the 116900 Air-King between 2016 and 2019 before that watch moves to cal 3230.
The 3131 is the time-only sister of cal 3135. Same architecture, no date wheel, no quickset. It differs from the cal 3130 (in the 14060M Submariner no-date and 114270 Explorer) primarily through the Parachrom hairspring and amagnetic material choices, and from the cal 3132 (Explorer 214270) by retaining Kif rather than Paraflex on earliest production. The same cal. 3131 is fitted to the 116900 Air-King from 2016 until that reference is replaced by the 126900 with cal. 3230 in 2022.


One specification worth flagging: the 116400 never carried the post-2015 Superlative Chronometer ±2 seconds per day certification. It stays at the pre-2015 COSC ±4 / +6 standard across its entire production run.
Early 116400 production belongs to the COSC-era specification; later production should not be described as never carrying Rolex's post-2015 Superlative Chronometer ±2 seconds/day standard without a stronger Rolex-primary source.


==Sub-reference table==
==Sub-reference table==


Four sub-references. The split is crystal + dial colour.
Four sub-references. The split is crystal plus dial colour.


{| class="wikitable"
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The "116400V" vs "116400GV" cataloguing confusion is real but means nothing — early warranty cards print "116400V" while the tag and reference plate on the same watch print "116400GV." Same production, no design difference. The "V" is shorthand the AD network used in some markets and never made it onto Rolex's later documentation.
The "116400V" versus "116400GV" cataloguing confusion is real but means nothing. Early warranty cards print "116400V" while the tag and reference plate on the same watch print "116400GV." Same production, no design difference. The "V" is shorthand the AD network used in some markets and never made it onto Rolex's later documentation.


The 116400-0001 black-dial clear-crystal is technically the rarest production-volume sub-reference because of its short c. 2013/2014 cutoff. The Z-Blue is the rarer of the two GV variants in absolute numbers because of its shorter nine-year run versus the Z-Black's full sixteen.
The 116400-0001 black-dial clear-crystal is technically the rarest production-volume sub-reference because of its short c. 2013/2014 cutoff. The Z-Blue is the rarer of the two GV variants in absolute numbers because of its shorter nine-year run versus the Z-Black's full sixteen.
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[[File:Ref 116400 gv_dial.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=Rolex 116400GV dial under Glace Verte green sapphire crystal|Rolex 116400GV dial under the Glace Verte green sapphire crystal — the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced.]]
[[File:Ref 116400 gv_dial.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=Rolex 116400GV dial under Glace Verte green sapphire crystal|Rolex 116400GV dial under the Glace Verte green sapphire crystal — the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced.]]
The Glace Verte is the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Synthetic sapphire with the green tint integrated through the full thickness — not a surface coating, not an AR film tint. Rolex states the process takes weeks per piece and is one of the most difficult aesthetic operations the manufacture has attempted.
The Glace Verte is the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Synthetic sapphire with the green tint integrated through the full thickness, not a surface coating, not an AR film tint. Rolex states the process takes weeks per piece and is one of the most difficult aesthetic operations the manufacture has attempted.


Rolex deliberately did not patent the process. Its stated reasoning: the process is so difficult to reverse-engineer that publishing a patent would only help imitators. The AR coating sits on the inner surface only.
Rolex deliberately did not patent the process. Its stated reasoning: publishing a patent would only help imitators because the process is hard enough to reverse-engineer that documenting it is the larger risk. The AR coating sits on the inner surface only.


The color reads as faint lime / eucalyptus head-on, deepening at oblique angles, with a luminescent quality under directional light. Two niche notes from forum discussion:
The colour reads as faint lime or eucalyptus head-on, deepening at oblique angles, with a luminescent quality under directional light. Two niche notes circulate in forum discussion. Genuine GV crystals are reportedly more fragile than standard sapphire because of the kiln cycle used to develop the green tint, and documented chipping from countertop knocks turns up in long-term ownership threads. Replica makers cannot clone the through-material tint, so most fakes use an external green AR coating that scratches off and leaves a colourless crystal underneath; the scratch test is a known authentication tell.
 
* Fragility relative to standard sapphire. Genuine GV crystals are reportedly more fragile because of the kiln cycle used to develop the green tint. Documented chipping from countertop knocks exists in long-term ownership threads.
* Replica detection. Replica makers cannot clone the through-material tint. Most fakes use an external green AR coating that scratches off, leaving a colourless crystal underneath. The scratch test is a known authentication tell.


==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes==
==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes==
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===Case===
===Case===


40mm Oyster, 904L Oystersteel from launch (Rolex completed the sports-line 904L transition pre-2007). Lug width 20mm, thickness ~13mm with the Faraday cage adding height versus a comparable Submariner. 100m / 330ft water resistance — sealed but not a dive watch. The 100m rating is the lowest in the modern Rolex sport line and the design choice that signals the Milgauss as a lab-bench tool rather than a dive watch.
40mm Oyster, 904L Oystersteel from launch (Rolex completed the sports-line 904L transition pre-2007). Lug width 20mm, thickness around 13mm with the Faraday cage adding height versus a comparable Submariner. Water resistance is 100m / 330ft, sealed but not a dive watch. The 100m rating is the lowest in the modern Rolex sport line and the design choice that signals the Milgauss as a lab-bench tool rather than a dive watch.


The Faraday cage continues the 6541 and 1019 soft-iron shielding concept with modern ferromagnetic alloys. The cage carries a "B with arrow" engraving on the inner assembly — a manufacturing signature visible only when the caseback is removed for service. The 1,000-gauss antimagnetic rating that the 6541 set is preserved; modern movements with paramagnetic components would arguably hit the rating without the cage, but Rolex keeps it for both nameplate continuity and the additional safety margin in extreme magnetic environments.
The Faraday cage continues the 6541 and 1019 soft-iron shielding concept with modern ferromagnetic alloys. The cage carries a "B with arrow" engraving on the inner assembly, a manufacturing signature visible only when the caseback is removed for service. The 1,000-gauss antimagnetic rating that the 6541 set is preserved. Modern movements with paramagnetic components would arguably hit the rating without the cage, but Rolex keeps it for both nameplate continuity and the additional safety margin in extreme magnetic environments.


===Bezel===
===Bezel===


Smooth fixed polished steel. Continuation of the 1019. The 6541's rotating engraved bezel is not revived.
Smooth fixed polished steel, a continuation of the 1019. The 6541's rotating engraved bezel is not revived.


===Crown===
===Crown===


Triplock screw-down — three internal gaskets. Modern sport-line crown architecture, not the smaller Twinlock the vintage Milgauss line used.
Twinlock screw-down crown. The 116400 keeps the 100m Oyster-case water-resistance architecture rather than adopting the Triplock crown used on several other modern Professional models.


===Crystal — two variants===
===Crystal — two variants===


* 116400 standard sapphire: clear sapphire crystal, standard production hardness, modern AR coating on the inner surface.
The non-GV 116400 carries a clear sapphire crystal at standard production hardness, with a modern AR coating on the inner surface. The 116400GV Glace Verte uses synthetic sapphire with the green tint integrated through the full crystal thickness, detailed in the section above.
* 116400GV Glace Verte: synthetic sapphire with green tint integrated through the full crystal thickness. Detailed above.


==Bracelet==
==Bracelet==


Reference 78690 Oyster three-link. Brushed centre with polished bevels on later production; earliest 2007-2008 examples were fully brushed. Solid end links from launch. Oysterclasp with Easylink 5mm comfort extension, the toolless quick-extension that arrived across the modern Rolex sport line in the late 2000s.
Reference 78690 Oyster three-link. Brushed centre with polished bevels on later production; earliest 2007 and 2008 examples were fully brushed. Solid end links from launch. Oysterclasp with Easylink 5mm comfort extension, the toolless quick-extension that arrived across the modern Rolex sport line in the late 2000s.


20mm lug width matches the case. 15.5mm link width. The 78690 reference is shared with the contemporaneous 114270 Explorer — same part number, same construction. A 116400 wearer who shifts to a 114270 inherits a bracelet they already own.
20mm lug width matches the case. Link width is 15.5mm. The 78690 reference is shared with the contemporaneous 114270 Explorer (same part number, same construction), so a 116400 wearer who shifts to a 114270 inherits a bracelet they already own.


==Serial-era transition==
==Serial-era transition==
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The rehaut + random-serial transition lands during the 116400 production. The market sees pre-rehaut M / V / G-serial examples (marginally collectible to some buyers as the "older Milgauss" cohort) and post-2010 scrambled-serial examples in roughly equal supply for the GV variants. The 116400-specific cutover month within the broader Rolex 2010 transition is not surfaced in published research.
The rehaut and random-serial transition lands during the 116400 production. The market sees sequential M, V, and G-prefix examples before the random-serial transition, followed by scrambled-serial examples from around 2010 onward. (marginally collectible to some buyers as the "older Milgauss" cohort) and post-2010 scrambled-serial examples in roughly equal supply for the GV variants. The 116400-specific cutover month within the broader Rolex 2010 transition is not surfaced in published research.


==Market — 2025 to 2026 bands==
==Market — 2025 to 2026 bands==


Bands from aggregated dealer-market data and the live auction feed:
Bands from aggregated dealer-market data and the live auction record.


{| class="wikitable"
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The Z-Blue commands a USD 2,000 to 4,000 premium over the Z-Black at retail-comparable condition. The non-GV clear-crystal black is the rarest sub-reference (shortest production run) but trades below the GV variants — the clear crystal is the discount, not a premium, in the modern market. Recent indices: 116400 +11.7% YoY; 116400GV +10.9% over five years.
The Z-Blue commands a USD 2,000 to 4,000 premium over the Z-Black at retail-comparable condition. The non-GV clear-crystal black is the rarest sub-reference (shortest production run) but trades below the GV variants; the clear crystal is the discount, not a premium, in the modern market. Recent indices: 116400 +11.7% YoY, 116400GV +10.9% over five years.


===Recent auction lots===
===Recent auction lots===


Modern Milgauss does not appear in the Phillips / Sotheby's headline tiers — the vintage 6541 owns that space (one 6541 hit CHF 2,238,000 at Phillips Geneva May 2023, the reference's auction record). Modern 116400 lots track through specialist online sales:
Modern Milgauss does not appear in the Phillips / Sotheby's headline tiers. The vintage 6541 owns that space (one 6541 hit CHF 2,238,000 at Phillips Geneva May 2023, the reference's auction record). Modern 116400 lots track through specialist online sales. Phillips Bacs & Russo took a 116400GV Z-Blue at USD 15,240 in April 2026, and a 116400GV Z-Blue full set went for just under USD 16,000 at Phillips Geneva in 2024. Bezel Auctions placed two Z-Blue lots at USD 14,250 and USD 14,395 in March 2026. Grailzee April 2026 sat the Z-Blue band at USD 13,650 to 14,070 and the Z-Black band at USD 9,975 to 11,025. Monaco Legend Group sold a 116400 for USD 9,008 in April 2024, beating estimate by 41%.
 
* Phillips Bacs & Russo, April 2026 — 116400GV Z-Blue, USD 15,240
* Phillips Geneva, 2024 — 116400GV Z-Blue full set, just under USD 16,000
* Bezel Auctions, March 2026 — two Z-Blue lots, USD 14,250 and 14,395
* Grailzee, April 2026 — Z-Blue band USD 13,650 to 14,070; Z-Black band USD 9,975 to 11,025
* Monaco Legend Group, April 2024 — 116400, USD 9,008 (beat estimate by 41%)


==Collector debate==
==Collector debate==
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===Milgauss without the diving baggage===
===Milgauss without the diving baggage===


The dominant ownership reading treats the 116400 as a 40mm steel sport Oyster with everything that makes the Submariner heavy on the wrist removed — no helium valve, no diving-rotation bezel, no Cyclops, no maxi indices. The orange minute rail and lightning-bolt seconds give the watch its personality without leaning on the dive-watch language. Raman Kalra's 2023 Quill & Pad essay names 13mm thickness as the only real complaint and wishes Rolex had shaved a millimetre, given that modern movement amagnetism makes the Faraday cage partially redundant. The cage stays because the Milgauss without it is just an Oyster Perpetual.
The dominant ownership reading treats the 116400 as a 40mm steel sport Oyster with everything that makes the Submariner heavy on the wrist taken out: no helium valve, no diving-rotation bezel, no Cyclops, no maxi indices. The orange minute rail and lightning-bolt seconds give the watch its personality without leaning on the dive-watch language. Raman Kalra's 2023 Quill & Pad essay names 13mm thickness as the only real complaint and wishes Rolex had shaved a millimetre, given that modern movement amagnetism makes the Faraday cage partially redundant. The cage stays because the Milgauss without it is just an Oyster Perpetual.


===Z-Blue vs Z-Black===
===Z-Blue vs Z-Black===


The Z-Blue runs hotter on the dealer market post-discontinuation. Z-Black collectors argue the black-dial GV is the more enduring choice: it carries the same green crystal but without the polarising electric-blue lacquer that some owners report reads washed-out under overcast daylight. Z-Blue collectors respond that the colour-shift behaviour through the green crystal — deep blue to aqua to green reflections depending on angle — is what makes the watch interesting, and that the Z-Black reads as a standard black-dial sport Oyster from any angle that doesn't catch the crystal's tint.
The Z-Blue runs hotter on the dealer market post-discontinuation. Z-Black collectors argue the black-dial GV is the more enduring choice: it carries the same green crystal but without the polarising electric-blue lacquer that some owners report reads washed-out under overcast daylight. Z-Blue collectors respond that the colour-shift behaviour through the green crystal, deep blue to aqua to green reflections depending on angle, is what makes the watch interesting, and that the Z-Black reads as a standard black-dial sport Oyster from any angle that doesn't catch the crystal's tint.


===Discontinuation as a collector pivot===
===Discontinuation as a collector pivot===


Watches & Wonders 2023 closed the Milgauss line with no successor announced. The owner discussion splits between a "future classic" reading (production is fixed; demand is stable; pricing will follow Daytona and Submariner discontinuation patterns) and a sustained-correction reading (the 2021-22 peak is the high; the 2025-26 mid-teens band is the new normal). Aggregate market data — single-digit-percentage YoY declines on the indices, faster-than-median time to sell, fixed inventory — supports the second reading more than the first.
Watches & Wonders 2023 closed the Milgauss line with no successor announced. Owner discussion splits between a "future classic" reading (production is fixed, demand is stable, pricing will follow Daytona and Submariner discontinuation patterns) and a sustained-correction reading (the 2021 to 2022 peak is the high, the 2025 to 2026 mid-teens band is the new normal). Aggregate market data, single-digit-percentage YoY declines on the indices, faster-than-median time to sell, fixed inventory, supports the second reading more than the first.


==Sources==
==Sources==

Latest revision as of 05:14, 29 May 2026


Milgauss -> 116400

The 116400 is the Milgauss revival. Rolex unveiled it at Baselworld March 2007, nineteen years after 1019 production ended and at the fiftieth anniversary of the 1956 6541 catalogue launch. The brief inverts the 1019's reading: where the 1019 stripped the 6541's signatures for a dress-coded antimagnetic Oyster, the 116400 revives the lightning-bolt seconds hand and adds the green sapphire crystal that only the Milgauss line has ever worn. Four sub-references run across sixteen years, two with clear sapphire crystals (white dial 116400-0002 and black dial 116400-0001) and two with the Glace Verte green-tinted sapphire (Z-Black 116400GV-0001 and the 2014 Z-Blue 116400GV-0002). The line ends at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 with the 116400GV discontinuation. Rolex has not announced a Milgauss successor.

Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue — electric-blue zirconium-sunburst lacquer under the Glace Verte sapphire crystal, the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Image via Monochrome.
Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue — electric-blue zirconium-sunburst lacquer under the Glace Verte sapphire crystal, the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Image via Monochrome.

Core facts

detail value
reference 116400 / 116400GV
family Milgauss
production 2007 to 2023, sixteen years
movement caliber 3131, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48h power reserve, Parachrom Blu hairspring
case 40mm, 904L Oystersteel, soft-iron Faraday cage with "B-arrow" engraving
crystal clear sapphire (116400) or green-tinted Glace Verte sapphire (116400GV)
bezel smooth fixed steel — continuation of the 1019
antimagnetic rating 1,000 gauss
water resistance 100m / 330ft
sub-references 116400-0001 black/clear, 116400-0002 white/clear, 116400GV-0001 Z-Black, 116400GV-0002 Z-Blue
hands orange lightning-bolt seconds — revives the 6541 signature
bracelet 78690 Oyster three-link with Oysterclasp + Easylink 5mm extension
predecessor 1019
successor none — line discontinued Watches & Wonders April 2023

Where it sits in the line

The 116400 closes the Milgauss line. The 6541 opens it in 1956 with the antimagnetic Faraday-cage architecture and the lightning-bolt seconds. The 1019 carries the dress-coded silhouette through 1988, after which the line sits empty for nineteen years. Rolex revives the reference in 2007 with the 50th-anniversary GV, runs four sub-references for sixteen years, and closes the line in 2023 with no successor.

The architectural continuity with the Faraday cage is direct. Modern ferromagnetic alloys replace the original soft iron, and the case carries a "B with arrow" engraving on the inner cage assembly as the modern shielding signature, but the structural concept is unchanged. The case grows from 38mm to 40mm to match contemporary sport-line dimensions. The lightning-bolt seconds hand revives the 6541 signature in orange, and reads more cartoonish than its 1957 forebear (itself the design choice that pushed Rolex toward the dress-coded 1019).

Inside the 116400, caliber 3131 is the time-only sister of cal 3135. Same architecture without the date wheel and quickset. A Parachrom Blu hairspring in paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy sits on top of the Faraday cage's mechanical shielding, which makes the 3131 one of the most modern antimagnetic movements in Rolex's catalogue and the Faraday cage at this point partially redundant. The cage stays because the Milgauss without it is just an Oyster Perpetual.

Production outline

Launch — Baselworld March 2007

Rolex revives the Milgauss at Baselworld 2007 with three variants: the white-dial clear-crystal 116400-0002, the black-dial clear-crystal 116400-0001, and the black-dial green-crystal 116400GV-0001 (Z-Black). The launch landed during the LHC commissioning period at CERN, before first beam in September 2008., and Rolex sends pre-production 116400 examples to CERN for testing, a deliberate echo of the original 6541 development brief. The 2007 anniversary year frames the green crystal as the 50th-anniversary signal even though the 116400 is positioned as a continuous catalogue revival rather than a limited-edition release. Launch retail was USD 6,200.

Sub-reference cutoff (c. 2013 to 2014)

The 116400-0001 black-dial clear-crystal is the first sub-reference to drop. Sources split between 2013 and 2014. Collector dates derive from catalogue absence and AD last-shipped reports rather than an official Rolex EOL announcement. The drop times to the Z-Blue launch.

Z-Blue launch — Baselworld March 2014

Rolex Milgauss 116400GV Z-Blue dial — electric-blue sunburst under the Glace Verte green sapphire crystal. Orange lightning-bolt seconds hand and orange MILGAUSS text at 12 are the signature accents.
116400GV Z-Blue — the 2014 introduction. Electric-blue sunburst dial against the Glace Verte green sapphire crystal. The only blue dial ever in the Milgauss line.


The 116400GV-0002 Z-Blue replaces the discontinued non-GV black in the catalogue. Electric-blue sunburst lacquer pigmented with zirconium (hence "Z") sits under the green Glace Verte crystal. The dial reads aqua and turquoise through the green tint, shifting from deep blue to aqua-blue with green reflections depending on light angle. Retail jumps to USD 8,200.

White-dial clear-crystal end (2016)

The 116400-0002 white-dial clear-crystal is the last non-GV Milgauss to leave production, in 2016. Sources align on 2016 with reasonable confidence; no Rolex announcement.

Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023

The entire Milgauss line is discontinued at Watches & Wonders 2023. The 116400GV-0001 Z-Black and 116400GV-0002 Z-Blue both leave production. Last published retail ran USD 9,150 to 9,300. No successor announced. Sixty-seven years after the 6541 entered the catalogue, the Milgauss line closes.

Movement notes

Caliber 3131 is a 28.5mm time-only chronometer movement running 31 jewels at 28,800 vph (4 Hz), with bidirectional rotor winding and roughly a 48-hour power reserve. It hacks; the crown winds clockwise only. The hairspring is Parachrom Blu (paramagnetic niobium-zirconium alloy), and the rest of the movement leans on amagnetic material choices in the escapement, screws, and mainplate components. Earliest production carries Kif shock protection; later examples use Paraflex. No date wheel, no quickset, COSC chronometer certified.

The 3131 is the time-only sister of cal 3135. Same architecture, no date wheel, no quickset. It differs from the cal 3130 (in the 14060M Submariner no-date and 114270 Explorer) primarily through the Parachrom hairspring and amagnetic material choices, and from the cal 3132 (Explorer 214270) by retaining Kif rather than Paraflex on earliest production. The same cal. 3131 is fitted to the 116900 Air-King from 2016 until that reference is replaced by the 126900 with cal. 3230 in 2022.

Early 116400 production belongs to the COSC-era specification; later production should not be described as never carrying Rolex's post-2015 Superlative Chronometer ±2 seconds/day standard without a stronger Rolex-primary source.

Sub-reference table

Four sub-references. The split is crystal plus dial colour.

sub-reference nickname crystal dial production
116400-0001 black/clear (non-GV) clear sapphire black, orange minute track, orange lume plots at 3/6/9, white batons 2007 – c. 2013/2014
116400-0002 white/clear (non-GV) clear sapphire white, orange batons at all hours, orange minute track 2007 – 2016
116400GV-0001 GV / Glace Verte / Z-Black green-tinted Glace Verte sapphire black, orange + white batons, orange minute track 2007 – 2023
116400GV-0002 Z-Blue green-tinted Glace Verte sapphire electric-blue sunburst (zirconium pigment), reads aqua/turquoise through the green crystal March 2014 – 2023

The "116400V" versus "116400GV" cataloguing confusion is real but means nothing. Early warranty cards print "116400V" while the tag and reference plate on the same watch print "116400GV." Same production, no design difference. The "V" is shorthand the AD network used in some markets and never made it onto Rolex's later documentation.

The 116400-0001 black-dial clear-crystal is technically the rarest production-volume sub-reference because of its short c. 2013/2014 cutoff. The Z-Blue is the rarer of the two GV variants in absolute numbers because of its shorter nine-year run versus the Z-Black's full sixteen.

Dial / crystal — Glace Verte

Rolex 116400GV dial under Glace Verte green sapphire crystal
Rolex 116400GV dial under the Glace Verte green sapphire crystal — the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced.

The Glace Verte is the only colored crystal Rolex has ever produced. Synthetic sapphire with the green tint integrated through the full thickness, not a surface coating, not an AR film tint. Rolex states the process takes weeks per piece and is one of the most difficult aesthetic operations the manufacture has attempted.

Rolex deliberately did not patent the process. Its stated reasoning: publishing a patent would only help imitators because the process is hard enough to reverse-engineer that documenting it is the larger risk. The AR coating sits on the inner surface only.

The colour reads as faint lime or eucalyptus head-on, deepening at oblique angles, with a luminescent quality under directional light. Two niche notes circulate in forum discussion. Genuine GV crystals are reportedly more fragile than standard sapphire because of the kiln cycle used to develop the green tint, and documented chipping from countertop knocks turns up in long-term ownership threads. Replica makers cannot clone the through-material tint, so most fakes use an external green AR coating that scratches off and leaves a colourless crystal underneath; the scratch test is a known authentication tell.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes

Case

40mm Oyster, 904L Oystersteel from launch (Rolex completed the sports-line 904L transition pre-2007). Lug width 20mm, thickness around 13mm with the Faraday cage adding height versus a comparable Submariner. Water resistance is 100m / 330ft, sealed but not a dive watch. The 100m rating is the lowest in the modern Rolex sport line and the design choice that signals the Milgauss as a lab-bench tool rather than a dive watch.

The Faraday cage continues the 6541 and 1019 soft-iron shielding concept with modern ferromagnetic alloys. The cage carries a "B with arrow" engraving on the inner assembly, a manufacturing signature visible only when the caseback is removed for service. The 1,000-gauss antimagnetic rating that the 6541 set is preserved. Modern movements with paramagnetic components would arguably hit the rating without the cage, but Rolex keeps it for both nameplate continuity and the additional safety margin in extreme magnetic environments.

Bezel

Smooth fixed polished steel, a continuation of the 1019. The 6541's rotating engraved bezel is not revived.

Crown

Twinlock screw-down crown. The 116400 keeps the 100m Oyster-case water-resistance architecture rather than adopting the Triplock crown used on several other modern Professional models.

Crystal — two variants

The non-GV 116400 carries a clear sapphire crystal at standard production hardness, with a modern AR coating on the inner surface. The 116400GV Glace Verte uses synthetic sapphire with the green tint integrated through the full crystal thickness, detailed in the section above.

Bracelet

Reference 78690 Oyster three-link. Brushed centre with polished bevels on later production; earliest 2007 and 2008 examples were fully brushed. Solid end links from launch. Oysterclasp with Easylink 5mm comfort extension, the toolless quick-extension that arrived across the modern Rolex sport line in the late 2000s.

20mm lug width matches the case. Link width is 15.5mm. The 78690 reference is shared with the contemporaneous 114270 Explorer (same part number, same construction), so a 116400 wearer who shifts to a 114270 inherits a bracelet they already own.

Serial-era transition

The 116400 production straddles Rolex's 2010-era serial-system transition.

prefix years engraving location
M 2007 – 2008 6 o'clock between lugs
V 2008 – 2009 6 o'clock between lugs
G c. 2010 – 2011 6 o'clock between lugs (last sequential prefix run)
random scrambled c. 2010 onward rehaut (inner crystal ring) — lug-side serial discontinued

The rehaut and random-serial transition lands during the 116400 production. The market sees sequential M, V, and G-prefix examples before the random-serial transition, followed by scrambled-serial examples from around 2010 onward. (marginally collectible to some buyers as the "older Milgauss" cohort) and post-2010 scrambled-serial examples in roughly equal supply for the GV variants. The 116400-specific cutover month within the broader Rolex 2010 transition is not surfaced in published research.

Market — 2025 to 2026 bands

Bands from aggregated dealer-market data and the live auction record.

sub-reference recent band
116400-0002 white / clear (non-GV) USD 7,500 to 11,000
116400-0001 black / clear (non-GV) USD 6,000 to 9,500
116400GV-0001 Z-Black USD 9,000 to 14,000
116400GV-0002 Z-Blue USD 11,000 to 15,000

The Z-Blue commands a USD 2,000 to 4,000 premium over the Z-Black at retail-comparable condition. The non-GV clear-crystal black is the rarest sub-reference (shortest production run) but trades below the GV variants; the clear crystal is the discount, not a premium, in the modern market. Recent indices: 116400 +11.7% YoY, 116400GV +10.9% over five years.

Recent auction lots

Modern Milgauss does not appear in the Phillips / Sotheby's headline tiers. The vintage 6541 owns that space (one 6541 hit CHF 2,238,000 at Phillips Geneva May 2023, the reference's auction record). Modern 116400 lots track through specialist online sales. Phillips Bacs & Russo took a 116400GV Z-Blue at USD 15,240 in April 2026, and a 116400GV Z-Blue full set went for just under USD 16,000 at Phillips Geneva in 2024. Bezel Auctions placed two Z-Blue lots at USD 14,250 and USD 14,395 in March 2026. Grailzee April 2026 sat the Z-Blue band at USD 13,650 to 14,070 and the Z-Black band at USD 9,975 to 11,025. Monaco Legend Group sold a 116400 for USD 9,008 in April 2024, beating estimate by 41%.

Collector debate

Milgauss without the diving baggage

The dominant ownership reading treats the 116400 as a 40mm steel sport Oyster with everything that makes the Submariner heavy on the wrist taken out: no helium valve, no diving-rotation bezel, no Cyclops, no maxi indices. The orange minute rail and lightning-bolt seconds give the watch its personality without leaning on the dive-watch language. Raman Kalra's 2023 Quill & Pad essay names 13mm thickness as the only real complaint and wishes Rolex had shaved a millimetre, given that modern movement amagnetism makes the Faraday cage partially redundant. The cage stays because the Milgauss without it is just an Oyster Perpetual.

Z-Blue vs Z-Black

The Z-Blue runs hotter on the dealer market post-discontinuation. Z-Black collectors argue the black-dial GV is the more enduring choice: it carries the same green crystal but without the polarising electric-blue lacquer that some owners report reads washed-out under overcast daylight. Z-Blue collectors respond that the colour-shift behaviour through the green crystal, deep blue to aqua to green reflections depending on angle, is what makes the watch interesting, and that the Z-Black reads as a standard black-dial sport Oyster from any angle that doesn't catch the crystal's tint.

Discontinuation as a collector pivot

Watches & Wonders 2023 closed the Milgauss line with no successor announced. Owner discussion splits between a "future classic" reading (production is fixed, demand is stable, pricing will follow Daytona and Submariner discontinuation patterns) and a sustained-correction reading (the 2021 to 2022 peak is the high, the 2025 to 2026 mid-teens band is the new normal). Aggregate market data, single-digit-percentage YoY declines on the indices, faster-than-median time to sell, fixed inventory, supports the second reading more than the first.

Sources

Primary and specialist

Editorial and market

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