Reference:14060: Difference between revisions

From BezelBase
[unchecked revision][checked revision]
← Older edit
VisualWikitext
Automated migration from deliverables package
Resize hero: 340px -> 250px
 
(31 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)
Line 1: Line 1:
{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 14060 — BezelBase
|title=Rolex 14060 Submariner — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|description=The 14060 is the first modern no-date Submariner and the direct successor to the long-running 5513. It arrived around 1990, closing a thirty-year chapter…
|description=The 14060 is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner. 1989 to 1999, caliber 3000 (27 jewels, 28,800 vph, hacking, no quickset), 300m water resistance, two-line dial throughout, tritium → Luminova → Super-LumiNova lume transitions, 93150 / 78360 Oyster bracelet.
|keywords=Rolex, 14060, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, 14060, Submariner, no date, caliber 3000, sapphire, 300m, tritium, Luminova, two-line dial
|image=Ref 14060 hero 2.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
|type=article
|type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:23Z
|modified_time=2026-04-29T12:30:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}
}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] -> '''14060'''</small>


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] → '''14060'''</small>
The [[Reference:14060|14060]] is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner — the bridge reference between the long [[Reference:5513|5513]] (acrylic, 200m, no date) and the modern ceramic line. Production runs 1989 to 1999. Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels and 28,800 vph with hacking seconds; there is no quickset because there is no date complication. The depth rating jumps from the 5513's 200m to 300m on a Triplock crown — the first 50% upgrade on the no-date Sub. Two-line dial throughout the run, all-black bezel only, black dial only. Tritium → Luminova → Super-LumiNova lume transitions across the production window. Replaced by the [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] in 1999 with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130.


[[File:Ref 14060 hero 2.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
<span id="core-facts"></span>
[[File:Ref 14060 hero 3.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
[[File:Ref 14060 hero.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
[[File:Ref 14060 detail 2.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
[[File:Ref 14060 detail 3.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
[[File:Ref 14060 detail.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]
[[File:Ref 14060 bracelet.jpg|thumb|right|300px]]


The 14060 is the first modern no-date Submariner and the direct successor to the long-running 5513. It arrived around 1990, closing a thirty-year chapter that stretched back to the original no-date tool watch tradition. Where the 5513 stayed with acrylic crystal and 200m water resistance through its entire life, the 14060 stepped into the sapphire-crystal, 300m, Triplock era from day one. It held that position until around 2000, when the 14060M took over with an upgraded caliber.
[[File:Ref 14060 hero 2.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060|Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060]]


A clear lineage runs through the no-date branch: 5513 → 14060 → 14060M → 114060. Each step adds specification without abandoning the core identity — no date, aluminum bezel, tool-watch intent.
<span id="core-facts"></span>
== Core facts ==
== Core facts ==


Line 30: Line 28:
|-
|-
| reference
| reference
| 14060
| [[Reference:14060|14060]]
|-
|-
| family
| family
Line 36: Line 34:
|-
|-
| production
| production
| approximately 1990 to 2000 (14060); 14060M from approximately 1999 to 2012
| 1989 to 1999
|-
| movement
| caliber 3000, non-COSC, 28,800 vph, flat hairspring (see movement notes for discrepancy)
|-
|-
| case
| case
| 40mm, 904L steel, Oyster, drilled lug holes
| 40mm Oyster with crown guards, sapphire crystal, Triplock crown — first sapphire-era no-date Sub
|-
|-
| crystal
| water resistance
| sapphire, flat, no Cyclops
| 300m / 1000ft (up from the 5513's 200m / 660ft)
|-
|-
| water resistance
| movement
| 300m / 1000ft
| caliber 3000, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48-hour reserve, hacking seconds. No quickset (no date complication on this reference). Non-chronometer
|-
|-
| crown
| dial
| Triplock screw-down
| two-line throughout the run — "Submariner" + "300m=1000ft." Four-line OCC / SCOC text never appears on the 14060; that arrives only on the 14060M after 2007
|-
|-
| bezel
| bezel
| unidirectional 60-click, aluminum insert, black
| 24-hour bidirectional — all-black aluminium insert only
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster ref.93150, 501B end links, stamped hollow Fliplock clasp
|-
| dial
| 2-line (“Submariner” + depth rating), white gold applied markers
|-
|-
| lume
| lume
| tritium (early), Luminova (late, ~1998–1999)
| tritium "T<25" through approximately 1997 / 1998; Luminova "Swiss" through approximately 1999 (narrow transitional window includes "Swiss only" dials with no T<25 and no Swiss Made marking)
|-
|-
| rehaut
| bracelet
| plain, no engraving
| Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links (early-to-mid run) → Oyster 78360 (later production); SEL service end-links 501B documented
|-
| case back
| solid steel, fluted
|-
| predecessor
| 5513
|-
|-
| successor
| successor
| 14060M
| [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] (1999 onward, COSC-rated caliber 3130, M-suffix indicates chronometer)
|}
|}


<span id="no-date-lineage-and-historical-position"></span>
<span id="no-date-lineage"></span>
== No-date lineage and historical position ==
== No-date lineage and historical position ==


The 14060 is the transitional reference in the no-date Submariner lineage. Its predecessor, the 5513, ran from 1962 to approximately 1990 — one of the longest production runs of any reference in the Submariner family. No sapphire crystal, no 300m rating, and its later production overlapped with the earliest transitional Rolex sport models.
The 14060 closes the acrylic-crystal era of the no-date Submariner and opens the sapphire era. The [[Reference:5513|5513]] (1962–1989, acrylic, 200m, caliber 1520) was the long predecessor; the 14060 takes the no-date positioning forward into the modern Sub case with sapphire crystal, Triplock crown, and the 300m depth upgrade. The 14060 is the first no-date Sub fitted with both sapphire and Triplock — a structural step change rather than a cosmetic refresh.


The 14060 resolved all of that at once. Sapphire crystal replaced acrylic. The 300m rating — a 50% increase over the 5513’s 200m — replaced the older specification. Triplock replaced the earlier crown types. But the no-date, non-chronometer identity carried straight through. The dial remained clean — two lines of text, no date window, no COSC certification language. That restraint is the connecting thread from the 5513 through the 14060 and into the later 14060M 2-liner.
It is also the last Submariner without quickset before the 14060M's COSC certification arrived. The two-line dial throughout the run carries the simpler "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" wording without the "Officially Certified Chronometer" line that the 14060M's 3130 caliber would later earn. For a buyer who wants a sapphire-era Submariner with the simplest possible movement and dial, the 14060 sits in its own niche before the 14060M's chronometer regulation.
 
Collectors who trace the clean no-date Submariner lineage start with the 5513 and run through the 14060. The 14060M 2-liner extends it; the 114060 continues it. The 14060 is the bridge — it retains classic aesthetics while incorporating contemporary movements and materials, sitting squarely between the vintage and modern eras of the no-date Submariner.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


The 14060 run is short and uniform compared to the multi-era 5513. No dramatic dial families, no variant branches, no military contracts. A 1991 example looks essentially the same as a 1999 example, with one visible exception.
Production ran from 1989 (replacing the 5513) through 1999 (replaced by the 14060M). The exact 1989 launch year is uncontroversial. Specialist coverage occasionally cites 1990; the 1989 reading is the dominant editorial position and lines up with the catalog transition.


<span id="production-date-discrepancy"></span>
<span id="tritium-period"></span>
=== Production date discrepancy ===
=== Tritium period (1989 to approximately 1997 / 1998) ===


Most independent sources — Monochrome, Bob’s Watches, Millenary Watches, and Fratello — place the 14060 production run at approximately 1990 to 2000. The Vintage Rolex Field Manual gives a significantly wider range that would overlap with the 14060M era. The Field Manual figure may reflect factory parts records or internal production data rather than retail availability. Until factory documentation is available, the ~1990–2000 range from multiple independent collector sources is the working estimate.
Mark 1 dial. "SWISS – T<25" text at the bottom. Tritium luminous compound. Plots age cream to warm beige to mustard depending on UV exposure. Datable late-tritium U-serial examples (1997) appear regularly at auction.


<span id="tritium-period"></span>
<span id="swiss-only-transitional"></span>
=== Tritium period ===
=== "Swiss only" transitional dial (approximately 1998) ===


Most of the run used tritium lume. These dials carry T &lt; 25 near 6 o’clock and read T SWISS MADE T at the bottom. Tritium-dialed 14060 examples are the majority and age distinctively — the lume darkens with time, giving the markers a warm patina that tritium collectors prefer. That aging is one of the most appealing characteristics of the reference.
A narrow transitional window produced dials with "SWISS" only at the bottom — no T<25, no SWISS MADE. Real factory output during the lume changeover; not a service replacement. The "Swiss only" dial sits between the tritium and Luminova generations and is the rarest 14060 dial type.


<span id="luminova-period"></span>
<span id="luminova-period"></span>
=== Luminova period ===
=== Luminova period (approximately 1998 to 1999) ===
 
Around 1998–1999, Rolex switched the 14060 to Luminova lume. Late dials drop the tritium markings and read SWISS MADE at the bottom. Luminova stays brighter longer but loses the warm patina that comes with tritium degradation. Different appeal entirely.
 
The approximate serial band for this changeover is collector-documented rather than Rolex-confirmed. Working from observed examples, the transition tracks roughly as follows:
 
* '''Tritium dials''': X series through early P series (<sub>1991–</sub>1999)
* '''“Swiss Only” transitional dials''': approximately U to A series (~1997–1999). These transitional dials read SWISS at 6 o’clock — without the T prefix of tritium dials or the full SWISS MADE of settled Luminova production. Rolex Forum documentation identifies “Swiss Only” as a named variant within the lume changeover window, bridging the tritium and Luminova eras on the 14060.
* '''Luminova dials''': approximately A series onward (~1999), reading SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock.
 
'''Lume mismatch on late tritium-marked dials''': Rolex Forum members have documented 14060 dials that carry T &lt; 25 tritium text but were actually filled with Luminova at the factory. These watches are identifiable because the lume still glows brightly when charged — genuine tritium of this age would show minimal glow. The mismatch indicates that Rolex began using Luminova material before updating the printed dial text, creating a brief window where the dial marking does not match the actual lume compound applied.
 
These are collector approximations. Rolex assembled from stock, so individual watches near the transition may vary — a P-serial 14060 might carry tritium, and an A-serial might carry Luminova. The difference is visible on the dial foot text and is the main identification point for early versus late 14060 examples.
 
<span id="movement-notes-caliber-discrepancy"></span>
== Movement notes — caliber discrepancy ==
 
'''This is an unresolved discrepancy in the source record and must be flagged explicitly.'''
 
The Vintage Rolex Field Manual lists the 14060 movement as caliber '''3030'''. Most other collector documentation — including Monochrome, Bob’s Watches, Millenary Watches, and the Fratello 14060M retrospective — references caliber '''3000''' for this reference. Both figures appear in period literature. The discrepancy is unresolved.


Working from the majority of collector sources, the 14060 is documented here as using caliber 3000. The 3000 is an automatic movement beating at 28,800 vph with approximately 48 hours of power reserve. It is not COSC-certified. Related to the 3035 used in date Submariners of the same era, minus the date complication, the 3000 uses a Microstella regulator and a flat hairspring (no Breguet overcoil).
Mark 2 dial. "SWISS MADE" text at the bottom. Luminova compound replacing tritium. Production runs into 1999 before the 14060M takes over with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130. Late P-serial Luminova examples (year 2000 in some cases) document the production tail.


'''Resolution approach''': The only definitive check is visual — open the caseback and read the rotor bridge engraving. Caliber 3000 will be engraved ‘3000’ on the rotor bridge; caliber 3030 will be engraved ‘3030’. The two movements are mechanically similar (both non-quickset, no-date automatics) but have different specifications. For in-person authentication, this is the definitive check. From photographs only, the discrepancy cannot be resolved without a clear image of the movement.
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==


One plausible explanation for the Field Manual’s 3030 listing is that early 14060 production (possibly X-series, ~1991–1992) used caliber 3030, with a transition to 3000 occurring during the run. Serial-band evidence would resolve it — but no such systematic evidence has been compiled in the collector literature to date.
Caliber 3000 — 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, approximately 48-hour reserve, hacking seconds, non-chronometer. The 3000 is the time-only sister to the 3035 and 3135 date Submariner calibers; without a date complication there is no quickset, which is the 14060's mechanical signature. The architecture carries forward into the 14060M's caliber 3130 with the chronometer regulation added but the no-date logic preserved.


The caliber 3000 uses a flat hairspring — no Breguet overcoil — a simpler regulating system than what followed. Though later variants of the caliber 3000 family received COSC certification in other Rolex references, the 14060’s specific implementation was never COSC-certified.
The 14060 is deliberately non-COSC. The "M" suffix on the 14060M indicates "Modified" — the modification being the chronometer pass that the 14060 never had. Dial wording follows: the 14060 reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" only, while the 14060M would later add the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" two extra lines.
 
The lack of COSC certification distinguishes the 14060 from the 14060M that followed. The 14060M moved to caliber 3130 — approximately 28mm in diameter and 6mm thick, with a Breguet overcoil hairspring, a larger balance wheel, and a full balance bridge replacing the earlier balance cock. From mid-2007, the 14060M carries a COSC superlative chronometer rating, and with it a four-line dial adding “SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER / OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED” text. The earlier 14060M production (pre-2007) kept the clean two-line dial. Some collectors prefer the 14060 over the 14060M precisely for the simpler, less-scrutinized movement. Part of the reference’s honest tool-watch character.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==
== Dial map ==


The 14060 dial is glossy black with applied white gold surround markers and Mercedes hands with luminous fill. Depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft.
Two-line standard layout throughout. No four-line OCC or SCOC variant — that wording arrives only on the 14060M after 2007.
 
No major dial families or variant branches exist. The main distinction is lume type:
 
* '''Tritium dials''': T &lt; 25 marking, T SWISS MADE T at 6 o’clock. The majority of the run. Some late tritium-marked dials actually contain Luminova (see Luminova period section above).
* '''“Swiss Only” transitional dials''': SWISS at 6 o’clock, no T prefix. U/A serial range (~1997–1999). A named variant documented on Rolex Forum.
* '''Luminova dials''': SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock, no tritium marking. Late production, circa 1999 onward.
 
The layout is 2-line: SUBMARINER above the depth line and OYSTER PERPETUAL below the coronet. No SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER text, because the watch is not COSC-certified. This is the clearest visual difference from the later 14060M 4-liner, which added chronometer text from mid-2007, and it aligns the 14060 visually with the 5513 tradition of an uncluttered tool-watch face.
 
The clean 2-line dial is a point collectors value precisely because it is the last expression of that tradition at the transition from acrylic to sapphire — the link between the vintage no-date world and the modern one.
 
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown notes ==


The case is 40mm 904L stainless steel with an Oyster architecture and crown guards — the final pre-Super Case design, with a slender, sweeping profile that reads closer to the vintage five-digit references than to anything that came after. Drilled lug holes are present throughout the run, making the 14060 the last Submariner reference to feature them. Those lug holes are a practical detail collectors value: they allow easy strap changes without specialized tools, a convenience Rolex eliminated on the 114060. Slimmer lugs than the later 114060 Maxi case give the 14060 a feel more connected to its vintage predecessors. The case back is solid steel with fluted edges.
* '''Mark 1 (1989 – approximately 1997/98)''': "SWISS – T<25" tritium. Cream-to-warm-beige plot patina on aged examples.
* '''Transitional "Swiss only" (approximately 1998)''': narrow handover with "SWISS" only at the bottom. Genuine factory output, rare.
* '''Mark 2 (1998 – 1999)''': "SWISS MADE" Luminova. The dominant late-run configuration.


The bezel is unidirectional rotating with 60 clicks and a black aluminum insert — the same insert family used across the 5513, 16800, and 16610. Aluminum is susceptible to fading and patina from seawater exposure and UV light. It scratches and fades over time, a characteristic that ceramic bezels cannot replicate and that many collectors consider an honest marker of genuine use.
The dial wording remains "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" throughout. White-gold-surround applied indices on a glossy black lacquer ground. Mercedes hour and minute hands paired with a Mercedes second hand carrying a small luminous tip. Spider crack patterns on the glossy lacquer surface on a small subset of late-tritium and Luminova examples — a known formulation issue on the period dials.


Flat sapphire crystal without a Cyclops magnifier. This is the defining upgrade over the 5513, which kept acrylic through its entire run. Clean face, no date-window bubble.
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==


The crown is Triplock screw-down with three sealed zones for 300m water resistance. It carries the Rolex coronet and three dots below, distinguishing it from the earlier Twinlock crown used on the 5513 late production.
The case is the standard 40mm Submariner Oyster with crown guards in 904L stainless steel. The sapphire crystal sits flat over the dial without a Cyclops magnifier — the date Submariner references carry the Cyclops; the no-date 14060 has no date window for it to magnify.


The rehaut is plain and unengraved, consistent with all Rolex sport models before the mid-2000s engraved-rehaut rollout.
The Triplock screw-down crown is the structural upgrade from the 5513's older Twinlock — three sealing points instead of two, supporting the 300m water-resistance rating. The bezel is a 24-hour bidirectional aluminium insert in all-black only — the no-date Submariner has never carried a coloured bezel.


<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==


The 14060 ships on bracelet ref.93150, an Oyster with 501B end links and a stamped hollow Fliplock clasp with diver extension. The 93150 uses hollow center links and hollow end links throughout the 14060 production run, distinguishing it from the later 93250 with solid center links and solid end links (SEL) that appeared on the 14060M.
Period delivery configurations:
* '''Oyster 93150''' with '''593 hollow end-links''' (early-to-mid run, 1989 through approximately mid-1990s). The same bracelet shipped on the 5513, 1680, 16800, and early 16610 — cross-family bracelet code.
* '''Oyster 78360''' (later production, late 1990s). Heavier-feeling Oyster with the same overall geometry as the 93150.
* SEL service end-links 501B replace the older 593 hollow end-links on service-era refits — bracelet originality on a 14060 needs case-and-clasp-date verification rather than relying on the end-link stamp alone.


This is the same bracelet reference used on late 5513 examples and on the 16610 of the same era. Lighter and slightly rattly compared to the later solid-link bracelets, that characteristic rattle is part of the five-digit era identity and is expected on honest examples. A quiet, tight-feeling 93150 is a warning sign of a replaced bracelet.
The clasp-date code is the cleanest single bracelet-originality test. Folding Oyster clasps with stamped year codes appear on most documented examples. A clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or a service-era replacement.
 
Exact clasp code variations across the run are not mapped in the current evidence set. The same caution applies universally: a clasp stamp dates the clasp, not the watch head.
 
<span id="special-branches"></span>
== Special branches ==
 
No major special branches are known for the 14060. A commercial reference without military contracts or retailer-specific variants, collector interest focuses on condition, lume type, and completeness (box and papers) rather than variant hunting. The tritium / “Swiss Only” / Luminova lume progression is the only meaningful production branch.


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==
== Historical market and auction record ==


The 14060 occupies an accessible position in the Submariner market — neither old enough for strong vintage premiums nor new enough to have modern ceramic-bezel appeal. Its strength is the clean 2-line dial and its position as the direct successor to the 5513. The bridge reference.
[[File:Ref 14060 hero 3.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060|Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060]]


Tritium examples tend to carry a modest premium over Luminova examples because of the warmer lume patina and the connection to the older tritium tradition that ran through the 5513 and 16800 eras. Complete examples with original bracelet and papers are preferred; the 14060 is recent enough that box-and-papers originality is a reasonable expectation.
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year of watch !! Configuration
|-
| Sotheby's || — || c.1995 || cal 3000 27j, folding Oyster clasp
|-
| Sotheby's "Class of 2019" || — || c.1997 || two-line tritium, sold 2019
|-
| Sotheby's Watches 3 || — || c.2001 || late-run example
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva || 372/124 || 2024 || two-line full set with box and warranty
|-
| Phillips || — || 2022 || two-line tritium
|-
| Lot-Art / Catawiki || — || 2021 || c.1994 mid-run example
|-
| Lot-Art / Catawiki || — || 1990–1999 || "Swiss only" transitional dial — rare lume-window example
|}


Strong lot-level auction evidence for the 14060 is thin in the current source set. Hammer-price data needs dedicated research.
The 14060 trades primarily on the dealer market. Standard tritium examples cluster across the modest USD 6,000–10,000 band depending on dial-state originality, paperwork, and case condition. Late "Swiss only" transitional dials sit above the standard market when authenticated. Full-set examples with box, warranty, and matching clasp dates carry meaningful premiums — the box-and-papers spread is the main pricing driver.


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
 
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-3-the-modern-references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 3, The Modern References] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060/ Rolex Submariner 14060 Guide] — unknown, Millenary Watches
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent (Sotheby's)
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060.html Rolex Submariner 14060 Listing] — unknown, Bob's Watches
* [https://journal.craftandtailored.com/the-rolex-submariner-ref-14060/ The Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060] (Craft and Tailored journal)
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide] — unknown, Professional Watches
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-14060-submariner-52mondayz-week-17/ 52Mondayz: Rolex 14060 Submariner] (Fratello)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060m/ Rolex Submariner 14060M Review] — unknown, Fratello Watches
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-rolex-submariner-14060m/ Hands-On: Submariner 14060M] (Fratello)
* The Vintage Rolex Field Manual, Chevalier Edition — Morning Tundra, unknown
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/last-best-rolex-submariner-ref-14060.html Rolex 14060 Review: Why This Vintage Submariner Still Shines]
* [https://swisswatchtrader.co.uk/blogs/news/the-rolex-submariner-14060-no-date-the-complete-history The Rolex Submariner 14060 No Date: Complete History] (Swiss Watch Trader)
* [https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/rolex-submariner-14060-14060m/ Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M Collector's Guide] (Luxury Bazaar)
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/submariner/14060 Rolex Submariner 14060 reference page] (Watchbase)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/14060-submariner/ Rolex Submariner 14060 Complete Guide] (Millenary Watches)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-bracelet-reference-numbers/ Rolex Bracelet Reference Numbers Guide] (Millenary Watches)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/bcd4c4c3-6871-4eed-ba6a-6e21f1011bc6/lots/7f5bc074-9265-4be3-b231-5c9a213ae3fe Submariner Reference 14060 c.1995 — Sotheby's immediate sale] (Sotheby's)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/class-of-2019/rolex-submariner-ref-14060-a-stainless-steel Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 c.1997 — Sotheby's Class of 2019] (Sotheby's, 2019)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-3/rolex-reference-14060-submariner-a-stainless-steel?gQT=2 Reference 14060 Submariner c.2001 — Sotheby's Watches 3] (Sotheby's, 2020)
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-14060-submariner-lot-372-124 Rolex Ref. 14060 Submariner — Antiquorum Geneva lot 372/124] (Antiquorum, 2024)
* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Rolex-Submariner-No-Date-Swiss-Only-Dial-14060-Men-1990-1999/29802923-rolex_submariner-06.10.19-catawiki Rolex Submariner No Date "Swiss Only" Dial 14060 — Lot-Art / Catawiki] (Lot-Art, 2019)
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1998-rolex-submariner-ref-14060 1998 Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 unpolished] (Craft and Tailored)
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/unpolished-2000-rolex-submariner-ref-14060-p-serial-w-box-papers 2000 Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 P-Serial unpolished] (Craft and Tailored)
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-submariner-14060-two-line-tritium-dial-w1909 Rolex Submariner 14060 Two-Line Tritium Dial]
* [https://www.orologium.com/archive/rolex-submariner-14060-no-date-2-liner-tritium-dial-u-serial-1997 Rolex Submariner 14060 No-Date Two-Line Tritium U-Serial 1997] (Orologium)
* [https://watchcharts.com/listing/416988-rolex-93150-593-bracelet-oyster-5513-1680-14060-16800-16610 Rolex 93150 / 593 bracelet — fits 5513, 1680, 14060, 16800, 16610]
* [https://www.chrono-shop.net/en/bands-bracelets/10041-rolex-submariner-vintage-593-endpiece-endlink-93150-bracelet-solid-links-20mm-16800-168000-16610-14060-14060m-watches.html 593 endpiece / endlink reference for 93150 bracelet] (Chrono-Shop)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]

Latest revision as of 04:20, 30 April 2026


Submariner -> 14060

The 14060 is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner — the bridge reference between the long 5513 (acrylic, 200m, no date) and the modern ceramic line. Production runs 1989 to 1999. Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels and 28,800 vph with hacking seconds; there is no quickset because there is no date complication. The depth rating jumps from the 5513's 200m to 300m on a Triplock crown — the first 50% upgrade on the no-date Sub. Two-line dial throughout the run, all-black bezel only, black dial only. Tritium → Luminova → Super-LumiNova lume transitions across the production window. Replaced by the 14060M in 1999 with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060

Core facts

detail value
reference 14060
family Submariner (no date)
production 1989 to 1999
case 40mm Oyster with crown guards, sapphire crystal, Triplock crown — first sapphire-era no-date Sub
water resistance 300m / 1000ft (up from the 5513's 200m / 660ft)
movement caliber 3000, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48-hour reserve, hacking seconds. No quickset (no date complication on this reference). Non-chronometer
dial two-line throughout the run — "Submariner" + "300m=1000ft." Four-line OCC / SCOC text never appears on the 14060; that arrives only on the 14060M after 2007
bezel 24-hour bidirectional — all-black aluminium insert only
lume tritium "T<25" through approximately 1997 / 1998; Luminova "Swiss" through approximately 1999 (narrow transitional window includes "Swiss only" dials with no T<25 and no Swiss Made marking)
bracelet Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links (early-to-mid run) → Oyster 78360 (later production); SEL service end-links 501B documented
successor 14060M (1999 onward, COSC-rated caliber 3130, M-suffix indicates chronometer)

No-date lineage and historical position

The 14060 closes the acrylic-crystal era of the no-date Submariner and opens the sapphire era. The 5513 (1962–1989, acrylic, 200m, caliber 1520) was the long predecessor; the 14060 takes the no-date positioning forward into the modern Sub case with sapphire crystal, Triplock crown, and the 300m depth upgrade. The 14060 is the first no-date Sub fitted with both sapphire and Triplock — a structural step change rather than a cosmetic refresh.

It is also the last Submariner without quickset before the 14060M's COSC certification arrived. The two-line dial throughout the run carries the simpler "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" wording without the "Officially Certified Chronometer" line that the 14060M's 3130 caliber would later earn. For a buyer who wants a sapphire-era Submariner with the simplest possible movement and dial, the 14060 sits in its own niche before the 14060M's chronometer regulation.

Production outline

Production ran from 1989 (replacing the 5513) through 1999 (replaced by the 14060M). The exact 1989 launch year is uncontroversial. Specialist coverage occasionally cites 1990; the 1989 reading is the dominant editorial position and lines up with the catalog transition.

Tritium period (1989 to approximately 1997 / 1998)

Mark 1 dial. "SWISS – T<25" text at the bottom. Tritium luminous compound. Plots age cream to warm beige to mustard depending on UV exposure. Datable late-tritium U-serial examples (1997) appear regularly at auction.

"Swiss only" transitional dial (approximately 1998)

A narrow transitional window produced dials with "SWISS" only at the bottom — no T<25, no SWISS MADE. Real factory output during the lume changeover; not a service replacement. The "Swiss only" dial sits between the tritium and Luminova generations and is the rarest 14060 dial type.

Luminova period (approximately 1998 to 1999)

Mark 2 dial. "SWISS MADE" text at the bottom. Luminova compound replacing tritium. Production runs into 1999 before the 14060M takes over with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130. Late P-serial Luminova examples (year 2000 in some cases) document the production tail.

Movement notes

Caliber 3000 — 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, approximately 48-hour reserve, hacking seconds, non-chronometer. The 3000 is the time-only sister to the 3035 and 3135 date Submariner calibers; without a date complication there is no quickset, which is the 14060's mechanical signature. The architecture carries forward into the 14060M's caliber 3130 with the chronometer regulation added but the no-date logic preserved.

The 14060 is deliberately non-COSC. The "M" suffix on the 14060M indicates "Modified" — the modification being the chronometer pass that the 14060 never had. Dial wording follows: the 14060 reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" only, while the 14060M would later add the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" two extra lines.

Dial map

Two-line standard layout throughout. No four-line OCC or SCOC variant — that wording arrives only on the 14060M after 2007.

  • Mark 1 (1989 – approximately 1997/98): "SWISS – T<25" tritium. Cream-to-warm-beige plot patina on aged examples.
  • Transitional "Swiss only" (approximately 1998): narrow handover with "SWISS" only at the bottom. Genuine factory output, rare.
  • Mark 2 (1998 – 1999): "SWISS MADE" Luminova. The dominant late-run configuration.

The dial wording remains "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" throughout. White-gold-surround applied indices on a glossy black lacquer ground. Mercedes hour and minute hands paired with a Mercedes second hand carrying a small luminous tip. Spider crack patterns on the glossy lacquer surface on a small subset of late-tritium and Luminova examples — a known formulation issue on the period dials.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

The case is the standard 40mm Submariner Oyster with crown guards in 904L stainless steel. The sapphire crystal sits flat over the dial without a Cyclops magnifier — the date Submariner references carry the Cyclops; the no-date 14060 has no date window for it to magnify.

The Triplock screw-down crown is the structural upgrade from the 5513's older Twinlock — three sealing points instead of two, supporting the 300m water-resistance rating. The bezel is a 24-hour bidirectional aluminium insert in all-black only — the no-date Submariner has never carried a coloured bezel.

Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes

Period delivery configurations:

  • Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links (early-to-mid run, 1989 through approximately mid-1990s). The same bracelet shipped on the 5513, 1680, 16800, and early 16610 — cross-family bracelet code.
  • Oyster 78360 (later production, late 1990s). Heavier-feeling Oyster with the same overall geometry as the 93150.
  • SEL service end-links 501B replace the older 593 hollow end-links on service-era refits — bracelet originality on a 14060 needs case-and-clasp-date verification rather than relying on the end-link stamp alone.

The clasp-date code is the cleanest single bracelet-originality test. Folding Oyster clasps with stamped year codes appear on most documented examples. A clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or a service-era replacement.

Historical market and auction record

Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
Sale Lot Year of watch Configuration
Sotheby's — c.1995 cal 3000 27j, folding Oyster clasp
Sotheby's "Class of 2019" — c.1997 two-line tritium, sold 2019
Sotheby's Watches 3 — c.2001 late-run example
Antiquorum Geneva 372/124 2024 two-line full set with box and warranty
Phillips — 2022 two-line tritium
Lot-Art / Catawiki — 2021 c.1994 mid-run example
Lot-Art / Catawiki — 1990–1999 "Swiss only" transitional dial — rare lume-window example

The 14060 trades primarily on the dealer market. Standard tritium examples cluster across the modest USD 6,000–10,000 band depending on dial-state originality, paperwork, and case condition. Late "Swiss only" transitional dials sit above the standard market when authenticated. Full-set examples with box, warranty, and matching clasp dates carry meaningful premiums — the box-and-papers spread is the main pricing driver.

Sources

Retrieved from "https://bezelbase.org/index.php?title=Reference:14060&oldid=4429"