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{{#seo:
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Submariner 14060 — BezelBase
|title=Rolex 14060 Submariner — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|description=The 14060 is the first modern no-date Submariner and the direct successor to the long-running 5513. It arrived around 1990, closing a thirty-year chapter…
|description=The 14060 is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner. 1989 to 1999, caliber 3000 (27 jewels, 28,800 vph, hacking, no quickset), 300m water resistance, two-line dial throughout, tritium → Luminova → Super-LumiNova lume transitions, 93150 / 78360 Oyster bracelet.
|keywords=Rolex, 14060, Submariner, specifications, reference guide
|keywords=Rolex, 14060, Submariner, no date, caliber 3000, sapphire, 300m, tritium, Luminova, two-line dial
|image=Ref 14060 hero 2.jpg
|image=Ref 14060 hero 2.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
|image_alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
|type=article
|type=article
|og_type=article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:15Z
|published_time=2026-04-14T16:13:23Z
|modified_time=2026-04-27T04:45:58Z
|modified_time=2026-04-29T12:30:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
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}}


<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] → '''14060'''</small>
<small>[[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] -> '''14060'''</small>


The 14060 is the first modern no-date Submariner and the direct successor to the 5513. It arrived around 1990 and ran until roughly 2000, when the 14060M took over with an upgraded caliber. The 5513 had stayed with acrylic crystal and 200m water resistance through its entire run; the 14060 came out of the gate with sapphire crystal, a 300m rating, and a Triplock crown.
The [[Reference:14060|14060]] is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner — the bridge reference between the long [[Reference:5513|5513]] (acrylic, 200m, no date) and the modern ceramic line. Production runs 1989 to 1999. Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels and 28,800 vph with hacking seconds; there is no quickset because there is no date complication. The depth rating jumps from the 5513's 200m to 300m on a Triplock crown — the first 50% upgrade on the no-date Sub. Two-line dial throughout the run, all-black bezel only, black dial only. Tritium → Luminova → Super-LumiNova lume transitions across the production window. Replaced by the [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] in 1999 with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130.
 
The no-date lineage runs 5513 → 14060 → 14060M → 114060. Each step added specification while keeping the same core: no date, aluminum bezel, tool-watch intent.


<span id="core-facts"></span>
<span id="core-facts"></span>


[[File:Ref 14060 hero 2.jpg|thumb|right|340px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060|Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060]]
[[File:Ref 14060 hero 2.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060|Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060]]


== Core facts ==
== Core facts ==
Line 30: Line 28:
|-
|-
| reference
| reference
| 14060
| [[Reference:14060|14060]]
|-
|-
| family
| family
Line 36: Line 34:
|-
|-
| production
| production
| approximately 1990 to 2000 (14060); 14060M from approximately 1999 to 2012
| 1989 to 1999
|-
| movement
| caliber 3000, non-COSC, 28,800 vph, flat hairspring (see movement notes for discrepancy)
|-
|-
| case
| case
| 40mm, 904L steel, Oyster, drilled lug holes
| 40mm Oyster with crown guards, sapphire crystal, Triplock crown — first sapphire-era no-date Sub
|-
|-
| crystal
| water resistance
| sapphire, flat, no Cyclops
| 300m / 1000ft (up from the 5513's 200m / 660ft)
|-
|-
| water resistance
| movement
| 300m / 1000ft
| caliber 3000, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48-hour reserve, hacking seconds. No quickset (no date complication on this reference). Non-chronometer
|-
|-
| crown
| dial
| Triplock screw-down
| two-line throughout the run — "Submariner" + "300m=1000ft." Four-line OCC / SCOC text never appears on the 14060; that arrives only on the 14060M after 2007
|-
|-
| bezel
| bezel
| unidirectional 60-click, aluminum insert, black
| 24-hour bidirectional — all-black aluminium insert only
|-
| bracelet
| Oyster ref.93150, 501B end links, stamped hollow Fliplock clasp
|-
| dial
| 2-line (“Submariner” + depth rating), white gold applied markers
|-
|-
| lume
| lume
| tritium (early), Luminova (late, ~1998–1999)
| tritium "T<25" through approximately 1997 / 1998; Luminova "Swiss" through approximately 1999 (narrow transitional window includes "Swiss only" dials with no T<25 and no Swiss Made marking)
|-
|-
| rehaut
| bracelet
| plain, no engraving
| Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links (early-to-mid run) → Oyster 78360 (later production); SEL service end-links 501B documented
|-
| case back
| solid steel, fluted
|-
| predecessor
| 5513
|-
|-
| successor
| successor
| 14060M
| [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] (1999 onward, COSC-rated caliber 3130, M-suffix indicates chronometer)
|}
|}


<span id="no-date-lineage-and-historical-position"></span>
<span id="no-date-lineage"></span>
== No-date lineage and historical position ==
== No-date lineage and historical position ==


The 14060 is the transitional reference in the no-date Submariner lineage. Its predecessor, the 5513, ran from 1962 to approximately 1990, one of the longest production runs of any reference in the Submariner family. The 5513 never gained a sapphire crystal or a 300m rating; both arrived with the 14060.
The 14060 closes the acrylic-crystal era of the no-date Submariner and opens the sapphire era. The [[Reference:5513|5513]] (1962–1989, acrylic, 200m, caliber 1520) was the long predecessor; the 14060 takes the no-date positioning forward into the modern Sub case with sapphire crystal, Triplock crown, and the 300m depth upgrade. The 14060 is the first no-date Sub fitted with both sapphire and Triplock — a structural step change rather than a cosmetic refresh.


Sapphire crystal replaced acrylic, the 300m rating (a 50% jump over the 5513’s 200m) replaced the older spec, and the Triplock crown replaced the earlier Twinlock. The no-date, non-chronometer identity carried straight through. Two lines of text, no date window, no COSC language. The same restrained dial reappears on the early 14060M 2-liner.
It is also the last Submariner without quickset before the 14060M's COSC certification arrived. The two-line dial throughout the run carries the simpler "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" wording without the "Officially Certified Chronometer" line that the 14060M's 3130 caliber would later earn. For a buyer who wants a sapphire-era Submariner with the simplest possible movement and dial, the 14060 sits in its own niche before the 14060M's chronometer regulation.
 
Collectors tracing the clean no-date line start with the 5513 and run through the 14060. The 14060M 2-liner extends it; the 114060 continues it. The 14060 is where the no-date Submariner crossed from acrylic-and-Twinlock construction into sapphire-and-Triplock construction without yet picking up COSC text or a Maxi case.


<span id="production-outline"></span>
<span id="production-outline"></span>
== Production outline ==
== Production outline ==


The 14060 run is short and uniform compared to the multi-era 5513. No dial families to speak of, no variant branches, no military contracts. A 1991 example looks much the same as a 1999 example apart from the lume change covered below.
Production ran from 1989 (replacing the 5513) through 1999 (replaced by the 14060M). The exact 1989 launch year is uncontroversial. Specialist coverage occasionally cites 1990; the 1989 reading is the dominant editorial position and lines up with the catalog transition.


<span id="production-date-discrepancy"></span>
<span id="tritium-period"></span>
=== Production date discrepancy ===
=== Tritium period (1989 to approximately 1997 / 1998) ===


Most independent sources place 14060 production at roughly 1990 to 2000. ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' gives a wider range that overlaps the 14060M era. The 1990–2000 window is the working estimate, with the broader Field Manual range likely reflecting parts availability rather than retail sales.
Mark 1 dial. "SWISS – T<25" text at the bottom. Tritium luminous compound. Plots age cream to warm beige to mustard depending on UV exposure. Datable late-tritium U-serial examples (1997) appear regularly at auction.


<span id="tritium-period"></span>
<span id="swiss-only-transitional"></span>
=== Tritium period ===
=== "Swiss only" transitional dial (approximately 1998) ===


Most of the run used tritium lume. These dials carry T &lt; 25 near 6 o’clock and read T SWISS MADE T at the bottom. The tritium darkens with age, leaving the markers with a warm patina that the brighter Luminova compound never develops. For many collectors that aging is the main draw of the early 14060.
A narrow transitional window produced dials with "SWISS" only at the bottom — no T<25, no SWISS MADE. Real factory output during the lume changeover; not a service replacement. The "Swiss only" dial sits between the tritium and Luminova generations and is the rarest 14060 dial type.


<span id="luminova-period"></span>
<span id="luminova-period"></span>
=== Luminova period ===
=== Luminova period (approximately 1998 to 1999) ===
 
Around 1998–1999, Rolex switched the 14060 to Luminova lume. Late dials drop the tritium markings and read SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock. Luminova holds its brightness for decades and does not yellow, so a late 14060 reads visually closer to a modern Submariner than to its tritium-era siblings.
 
The serial bands for this changeover are collector-documented rather than Rolex-confirmed, but the observed pattern is fairly consistent. Tritium dials run from the X series through early P series (roughly 1991–1999). A short transitional run known on Rolex Forum as “Swiss Only” appears in the U to A serials (roughly 1997–1999), reading SWISS at 6 o’clock without the T prefix of tritium dials or the full SWISS MADE of settled Luminova production. Luminova dials take over from approximately the A series onward (around 1999), with SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock.
 
Rolex Forum members have documented 14060 dials that carry T &lt; 25 tritium text but were factory-filled with Luminova. The tell is a bright charge: genuine tritium of this age barely glows. Rolex appears to have switched the lume compound before updating the printed dial text, leaving a short window where the dial marking does not match what is actually painted on the markers.


These are collector approximations. Rolex assembled from stock, so a P-serial example might still carry tritium and an A-serial might carry Luminova. The dial foot text is the practical tell for early versus late.
Mark 2 dial. "SWISS MADE" text at the bottom. Luminova compound replacing tritium. Production runs into 1999 before the 14060M takes over with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130. Late P-serial Luminova examples (year 2000 in some cases) document the production tail.


<span id="movement-notes-caliber-discrepancy"></span>
<span id="movement-notes"></span>
== Movement notes ==
== Movement notes ==


Sources split on the 14060 movement. ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' lists caliber 3030. Most other collector sources list caliber 3000. The 3000 is the dominant reading in the published literature and the working position here, with an early 3030 branch plausible but not mapped well enough to treat as settled. On any specific watch the bridge engraving under the caseback is the only definitive answer.
Caliber 3000 — 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, approximately 48-hour reserve, hacking seconds, non-chronometer. The 3000 is the time-only sister to the 3035 and 3135 date Submariner calibers; without a date complication there is no quickset, which is the 14060's mechanical signature. The architecture carries forward into the 14060M's caliber 3130 with the chronometer regulation added but the no-date logic preserved.


The succession is cleaner. The 14060M moved to caliber 3130 and later added the four-line COSC dial. The 14060 kept the non-COSC two-line format throughout.
The 14060 is deliberately non-COSC. The "M" suffix on the 14060M indicates "Modified" — the modification being the chronometer pass that the 14060 never had. Dial wording follows: the 14060 reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" only, while the 14060M would later add the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" two extra lines.


<span id="dial-map"></span>
<span id="dial-map"></span>
== Dial map ==
== Dial map ==


The 14060 dial is glossy black with applied white gold surround markers and Mercedes hands with luminous fill. Depth rating reads 300m / 1000ft.
Two-line standard layout throughout. No four-line OCC or SCOC variant — that wording arrives only on the 14060M after 2007.


No major dial families or variant branches exist; the single meaningful split is lume. Tritium dials carry T < 25 markings and read T SWISS MADE T at 6 o’clock; they cover the majority of the run, with some late examples factory-filled with Luminova behind tritium printing. The “Swiss Only” transitional dials drop the T prefix and read plain SWISS at 6 o’clock, sitting in the U and A serial range from roughly 1997 to 1999. Luminova dials read SWISS MADE at 6 o’clock with no tritium marking and cover late production from approximately 1999 onward.
* '''Mark 1 (1989 – approximately 1997/98)''': "SWISS – T<25" tritium. Cream-to-warm-beige plot patina on aged examples.
* '''Transitional "Swiss only" (approximately 1998)''': narrow handover with "SWISS" only at the bottom. Genuine factory output, rare.
* '''Mark 2 (1998 – 1999)''': "SWISS MADE" Luminova. The dominant late-run configuration.


The layout is two lines: SUBMARINER above the depth rating, OYSTER PERPETUAL below the coronet. No SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER text, because the watch is not COSC-certified. The 14060M 4-liner added that chronometer text from mid-2007, which is the cleanest visual cut between the two references and the reason the 14060 still reads as a continuation of the uncluttered 5513 face.
The dial wording remains "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" throughout. White-gold-surround applied indices on a glossy black lacquer ground. Mercedes hour and minute hands paired with a Mercedes second hand carrying a small luminous tip. Spider crack patterns on the glossy lacquer surface on a small subset of late-tritium and Luminova examples — a known formulation issue on the period dials.


<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown-notes"></span>
<span id="case-bezel-crystal-and-crown"></span>
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==
== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==


The case is 40mm 904L stainless steel in the classic Oyster architecture with crown guards. This is the final pre-Super Case design, slender and sweeping enough to read closer to the vintage five-digit references than to anything that followed. Drilled lug holes run through the entire 14060 production, making this the last Submariner to carry them; the detail allows strap changes with a simple pin pusher, where the 114060 requires specialized tools. The case back is solid steel with fluted edges.
The case is the standard 40mm Submariner Oyster with crown guards in 904L stainless steel. The sapphire crystal sits flat over the dial without a Cyclops magnifier — the date Submariner references carry the Cyclops; the no-date 14060 has no date window for it to magnify.


The bezel is unidirectional with 60 clicks and a black aluminum insert, the same insert family used across the 5513, 16800, and 16610. Aluminum scratches, fades, and takes on patina from seawater and UV in a way the later Cerachrom bezels cannot, and many collectors read that wear as an honest marker of use.
The Triplock screw-down crown is the structural upgrade from the 5513's older Twinlock — three sealing points instead of two, supporting the 300m water-resistance rating. The bezel is a 24-hour bidirectional aluminium insert in all-black only — the no-date Submariner has never carried a coloured bezel.


The crystal is flat sapphire with no Cyclops, and the sapphire itself is the defining upgrade over the 5513, which kept acrylic through its entire run. With no date window, there is no Cyclops lens to break up the face.
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging"></span>
 
The crown is Triplock screw-down with three sealed zones, rated for the 300m depth. The crown face carries the coronet over three dots, distinguishing it from the Twinlock (coronet over a single bar or two dots) used on late 5513 production.
 
The rehaut is plain and unengraved, consistent with all Rolex sport models before the mid-2000s engraved-rehaut rollout.
 
<span id="bracelets-end-links-clasps-and-packaging-notes"></span>
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==
== Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes ==


The 14060 ships on bracelet ref.93150, an Oyster with 501B end links and a stamped hollow Fliplock clasp with diver extension. The 93150 uses hollow center links and hollow end links throughout the 14060 production run, distinguishing it from the later 93250 with solid center links and solid end links (SEL) that appeared on the 14060M.
Period delivery configurations:
 
* '''Oyster 93150''' with '''593 hollow end-links''' (early-to-mid run, 1989 through approximately mid-1990s). The same bracelet shipped on the 5513, 1680, 16800, and early 16610 — cross-family bracelet code.
This is the same bracelet reference used on late 5513 examples and on the 16610 of the same era. The hollow construction makes it lighter and slightly rattly next to the later solid-link bracelets; that rattle is part of the five-digit era identity and expected on honest examples. A quiet, tight-feeling 93150 is a warning sign of a replaced bracelet.
* '''Oyster 78360''' (later production, late 1990s). Heavier-feeling Oyster with the same overall geometry as the 93150.
 
* SEL service end-links 501B replace the older 593 hollow end-links on service-era refits — bracelet originality on a 14060 needs case-and-clasp-date verification rather than relying on the end-link stamp alone.
Exact clasp code variations across the 14060 run have not been mapped in the published collector literature. The standard caveat holds: a clasp stamp dates the clasp, not the watch head.


<span id="special-branches"></span>
The clasp-date code is the cleanest single bracelet-originality test. Folding Oyster clasps with stamped year codes appear on most documented examples. A clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or a service-era replacement.
== Special branches ==
[[File:Ref 14060 hero 3.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060|Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060]]
 
No special branches exist for the 14060. The reference shipped as a straightforward commercial Submariner with no military contract and no retailer-specific variants, so collector interest runs on condition, lume type, and completeness rather than variant hunting.


<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
<span id="historical-market-and-auction-record"></span>
== Historical market and auction record ==
== Historical market and auction record ==


The 14060 sits in an accessible part of the Submariner market, too recent for strong vintage premiums and too old for the ceramic-bezel appeal of current production. Its draw is the clean two-line dial and the direct-succession line from the 5513.
[[File:Ref 14060 hero 3.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060|Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060]]


Tritium examples tend to carry a modest premium over Luminova examples thanks to the warmer lume patina and the line back through the 5513 and 16800 tritium eras. Complete sets with original bracelet and papers are preferred; the 14060 is recent enough that full box-and-papers originality is a reasonable expectation rather than a rarity.
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year of watch !! Configuration
|-
| Sotheby's || — || c.1995 || cal 3000 27j, folding Oyster clasp
|-
| Sotheby's "Class of 2019" || — || c.1997 || two-line tritium, sold 2019
|-
| Sotheby's Watches 3 || — || c.2001 || late-run example
|-
| Antiquorum Geneva || 372/124 || 2024 || two-line full set with box and warranty
|-
| Phillips || — || 2022 || two-line tritium
|-
| Lot-Art / Catawiki || — || 2021 || c.1994 mid-run example
|-
| Lot-Art / Catawiki || — || 1990–1999 || "Swiss only" transitional dial — rare lume-window example
|}


Strong lot-level auction evidence for the 14060 is still thin.
The 14060 trades primarily on the dealer market. Standard tritium examples cluster across the modest USD 6,000–10,000 band depending on dial-state originality, paperwork, and case condition. Late "Swiss only" transitional dials sit above the standard market when authenticated. Full-set examples with box, warranty, and matching clasp dates carry meaningful premiums — the box-and-papers spread is the main pricing driver.


== Sources ==
== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ History of the Rolex Submariner - Part 2, The 55XX References and 1680 Date] — Tom Mulraney, Monochrome
 
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent, Sotheby's
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-3-the-modern-references/ History of the Rolex Submariner — Part 3, The Modern References] — Tom Mulraney (Monochrome)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060/ Rolex Submariner 14060 Guide] — unknown, Millenary Watches
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/how-to-start-collecting-the-rolex-submariner The Rolex Submariner: A Complete Collector's Guide] — Stephen Pulvirent (Sotheby's)
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060.html Rolex Submariner 14060 Listing] — Bob's Watches editorial staff, Bob's Watches
* [https://journal.craftandtailored.com/the-rolex-submariner-ref-14060/ The Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060] (Craft and Tailored journal)
* [https://professionalwatches.com/rolex-submariner-reference-guide/ Rolex Submariner Reference Guide] — Professional Watches editorial, Professional Watches
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-14060-submariner-52mondayz-week-17/ 52Mondayz: Rolex 14060 Submariner] (Fratello)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060m/ Rolex Submariner 14060M Review] — Fratello Watches editorial, Fratello Watches
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/hands-on-rolex-submariner-14060m/ Hands-On: Submariner 14060M] (Fratello)
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/rolex-info/last-best-rolex-submariner-ref-14060.html Rolex 14060 Review: Why This Vintage Submariner Still Shines]
* [https://swisswatchtrader.co.uk/blogs/news/the-rolex-submariner-14060-no-date-the-complete-history The Rolex Submariner 14060 No Date: Complete History] (Swiss Watch Trader)
* [https://www.luxurybazaar.com/grey-market/rolex-submariner-14060-14060m/ Rolex Submariner 14060 and 14060M Collector's Guide] (Luxury Bazaar)
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/submariner/14060 Rolex Submariner 14060 reference page] (Watchbase)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/14060-submariner/ Rolex Submariner 14060 Complete Guide] (Millenary Watches)
* [https://millenarywatches.com/rolex-bracelet-reference-numbers/ Rolex Bracelet Reference Numbers Guide] (Millenary Watches)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/bcd4c4c3-6871-4eed-ba6a-6e21f1011bc6/lots/7f5bc074-9265-4be3-b231-5c9a213ae3fe Submariner Reference 14060 c.1995 — Sotheby's immediate sale] (Sotheby's)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2019/class-of-2019/rolex-submariner-ref-14060-a-stainless-steel Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 c.1997 — Sotheby's Class of 2019] (Sotheby's, 2019)
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-3/rolex-reference-14060-submariner-a-stainless-steel?gQT=2 Reference 14060 Submariner c.2001 — Sotheby's Watches 3] (Sotheby's, 2020)
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-14060-submariner-lot-372-124 Rolex Ref. 14060 Submariner — Antiquorum Geneva lot 372/124] (Antiquorum, 2024)
* [https://www.lot-art.com/auction-lots/Rolex-Submariner-No-Date-Swiss-Only-Dial-14060-Men-1990-1999/29802923-rolex_submariner-06.10.19-catawiki Rolex Submariner No Date "Swiss Only" Dial 14060 — Lot-Art / Catawiki] (Lot-Art, 2019)
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1998-rolex-submariner-ref-14060 1998 Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 unpolished] (Craft and Tailored)
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/unpolished-2000-rolex-submariner-ref-14060-p-serial-w-box-papers 2000 Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 P-Serial unpolished] (Craft and Tailored)
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-submariner-14060-two-line-tritium-dial-w1909 Rolex Submariner 14060 Two-Line Tritium Dial]
* [https://www.orologium.com/archive/rolex-submariner-14060-no-date-2-liner-tritium-dial-u-serial-1997 Rolex Submariner 14060 No-Date Two-Line Tritium U-Serial 1997] (Orologium)
* [https://watchcharts.com/listing/416988-rolex-93150-593-bracelet-oyster-5513-1680-14060-16800-16610 Rolex 93150 / 593 bracelet — fits 5513, 1680, 14060, 16800, 16610]
* [https://www.chrono-shop.net/en/bands-bracelets/10041-rolex-submariner-vintage-593-endpiece-endlink-93150-bracelet-solid-links-20mm-16800-168000-16610-14060-14060m-watches.html 593 endpiece / endlink reference for 93150 bracelet] (Chrono-Shop)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra


[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Submariner]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]
[[Category:Working Draft]]

Latest revision as of 04:20, 30 April 2026


Submariner -> 14060

The 14060 is the first sapphire-era no-date Submariner — the bridge reference between the long 5513 (acrylic, 200m, no date) and the modern ceramic line. Production runs 1989 to 1999. Caliber 3000 carries 27 jewels and 28,800 vph with hacking seconds; there is no quickset because there is no date complication. The depth rating jumps from the 5513's 200m to 300m on a Triplock crown — the first 50% upgrade on the no-date Sub. Two-line dial throughout the run, all-black bezel only, black dial only. Tritium → Luminova → Super-LumiNova lume transitions across the production window. Replaced by the 14060M in 1999 with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130.

Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060

Core facts

detail value
reference 14060
family Submariner (no date)
production 1989 to 1999
case 40mm Oyster with crown guards, sapphire crystal, Triplock crown — first sapphire-era no-date Sub
water resistance 300m / 1000ft (up from the 5513's 200m / 660ft)
movement caliber 3000, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, ~48-hour reserve, hacking seconds. No quickset (no date complication on this reference). Non-chronometer
dial two-line throughout the run — "Submariner" + "300m=1000ft." Four-line OCC / SCOC text never appears on the 14060; that arrives only on the 14060M after 2007
bezel 24-hour bidirectional — all-black aluminium insert only
lume tritium "T<25" through approximately 1997 / 1998; Luminova "Swiss" through approximately 1999 (narrow transitional window includes "Swiss only" dials with no T<25 and no Swiss Made marking)
bracelet Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links (early-to-mid run) → Oyster 78360 (later production); SEL service end-links 501B documented
successor 14060M (1999 onward, COSC-rated caliber 3130, M-suffix indicates chronometer)

No-date lineage and historical position

The 14060 closes the acrylic-crystal era of the no-date Submariner and opens the sapphire era. The 5513 (1962–1989, acrylic, 200m, caliber 1520) was the long predecessor; the 14060 takes the no-date positioning forward into the modern Sub case with sapphire crystal, Triplock crown, and the 300m depth upgrade. The 14060 is the first no-date Sub fitted with both sapphire and Triplock — a structural step change rather than a cosmetic refresh.

It is also the last Submariner without quickset before the 14060M's COSC certification arrived. The two-line dial throughout the run carries the simpler "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" wording without the "Officially Certified Chronometer" line that the 14060M's 3130 caliber would later earn. For a buyer who wants a sapphire-era Submariner with the simplest possible movement and dial, the 14060 sits in its own niche before the 14060M's chronometer regulation.

Production outline

Production ran from 1989 (replacing the 5513) through 1999 (replaced by the 14060M). The exact 1989 launch year is uncontroversial. Specialist coverage occasionally cites 1990; the 1989 reading is the dominant editorial position and lines up with the catalog transition.

Tritium period (1989 to approximately 1997 / 1998)

Mark 1 dial. "SWISS – T<25" text at the bottom. Tritium luminous compound. Plots age cream to warm beige to mustard depending on UV exposure. Datable late-tritium U-serial examples (1997) appear regularly at auction.

"Swiss only" transitional dial (approximately 1998)

A narrow transitional window produced dials with "SWISS" only at the bottom — no T<25, no SWISS MADE. Real factory output during the lume changeover; not a service replacement. The "Swiss only" dial sits between the tritium and Luminova generations and is the rarest 14060 dial type.

Luminova period (approximately 1998 to 1999)

Mark 2 dial. "SWISS MADE" text at the bottom. Luminova compound replacing tritium. Production runs into 1999 before the 14060M takes over with the chronometer-rated caliber 3130. Late P-serial Luminova examples (year 2000 in some cases) document the production tail.

Movement notes

Caliber 3000 — 27 jewels, 28,800 vph, approximately 48-hour reserve, hacking seconds, non-chronometer. The 3000 is the time-only sister to the 3035 and 3135 date Submariner calibers; without a date complication there is no quickset, which is the 14060's mechanical signature. The architecture carries forward into the 14060M's caliber 3130 with the chronometer regulation added but the no-date logic preserved.

The 14060 is deliberately non-COSC. The "M" suffix on the 14060M indicates "Modified" — the modification being the chronometer pass that the 14060 never had. Dial wording follows: the 14060 reads "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" only, while the 14060M would later add the "Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified" two extra lines.

Dial map

Two-line standard layout throughout. No four-line OCC or SCOC variant — that wording arrives only on the 14060M after 2007.

  • Mark 1 (1989 – approximately 1997/98): "SWISS – T<25" tritium. Cream-to-warm-beige plot patina on aged examples.
  • Transitional "Swiss only" (approximately 1998): narrow handover with "SWISS" only at the bottom. Genuine factory output, rare.
  • Mark 2 (1998 – 1999): "SWISS MADE" Luminova. The dominant late-run configuration.

The dial wording remains "Submariner / 300m=1000ft" throughout. White-gold-surround applied indices on a glossy black lacquer ground. Mercedes hour and minute hands paired with a Mercedes second hand carrying a small luminous tip. Spider crack patterns on the glossy lacquer surface on a small subset of late-tritium and Luminova examples — a known formulation issue on the period dials.

Case, bezel, crystal, and crown

The case is the standard 40mm Submariner Oyster with crown guards in 904L stainless steel. The sapphire crystal sits flat over the dial without a Cyclops magnifier — the date Submariner references carry the Cyclops; the no-date 14060 has no date window for it to magnify.

The Triplock screw-down crown is the structural upgrade from the 5513's older Twinlock — three sealing points instead of two, supporting the 300m water-resistance rating. The bezel is a 24-hour bidirectional aluminium insert in all-black only — the no-date Submariner has never carried a coloured bezel.

Bracelets, end links, clasps, and packaging notes

Period delivery configurations:

  • Oyster 93150 with 593 hollow end-links (early-to-mid run, 1989 through approximately mid-1990s). The same bracelet shipped on the 5513, 1680, 16800, and early 16610 — cross-family bracelet code.
  • Oyster 78360 (later production, late 1990s). Heavier-feeling Oyster with the same overall geometry as the 93150.
  • SEL service end-links 501B replace the older 593 hollow end-links on service-era refits — bracelet originality on a 14060 needs case-and-clasp-date verification rather than relying on the end-link stamp alone.

The clasp-date code is the cleanest single bracelet-originality test. Folding Oyster clasps with stamped year codes appear on most documented examples. A clasp dating later than the case head implies a swap or a service-era replacement.

Historical market and auction record

Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060
Sale Lot Year of watch Configuration
Sotheby's — c.1995 cal 3000 27j, folding Oyster clasp
Sotheby's "Class of 2019" — c.1997 two-line tritium, sold 2019
Sotheby's Watches 3 — c.2001 late-run example
Antiquorum Geneva 372/124 2024 two-line full set with box and warranty
Phillips — 2022 two-line tritium
Lot-Art / Catawiki — 2021 c.1994 mid-run example
Lot-Art / Catawiki — 1990–1999 "Swiss only" transitional dial — rare lume-window example

The 14060 trades primarily on the dealer market. Standard tritium examples cluster across the modest USD 6,000–10,000 band depending on dial-state originality, paperwork, and case condition. Late "Swiss only" transitional dials sit above the standard market when authenticated. Full-set examples with box, warranty, and matching clasp dates carry meaningful premiums — the box-and-papers spread is the main pricing driver.

Sources

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