Reference:6204 - Revision history

Admin: Resize hero: 340px -> 250px

2026-04-30T04:22:34Z

Resize hero: 340px -> 250px

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:22, 30 April 2026
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	<span id="core-facts"></span>		<span id="core-facts"></span>

	[[File:Ref 6204 hero.webp\|thumb\|right\|~~340px~~\|alt=Submariner 6204 — the first Submariner, small crown, no crown guards\|Submariner 6204 — the first Submariner, small crown, no crown guards]]		[[File:Ref 6204 hero.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Submariner 6204 — the first Submariner, small crown, no crown guards\|Submariner 6204 — the first Submariner, small crown, no crown guards]]

	== Core facts ==		== Core facts ==

Admin: Text audit second pass: voice, clarity, source links

2026-04-29T22:58:40Z

Text audit second pass: voice, clarity, source links

Admin: Fix Core-facts table: row separator |- was concatenated to "2,881" cell, breaking table rendering from "case" row onward

2026-04-29T22:56:02Z

Fix Core-facts table: row separator |- was concatenated to "2,881" cell, breaking table rendering from "case" row onward

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:56, 29 April 2026
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	\|-		\|-
	\| total produced		\| total produced
	\| 2,881 \|-		\| 2,881
			\|-
	\| case		\| case
	\| 37mm sans crown (Hodinkee, Monochrome, aBlogtoWatch); WatchTime 36mm		\| 37mm sans crown (Hodinkee, Monochrome, aBlogtoWatch); WatchTime 36mm

Admin: Fix Core-facts text corruption: orphan ".5mm" fragment in case row (no source backed it; body L124 confirms 37mm vs WatchTime 36mm split only)

2026-04-29T22:54:21Z

Fix Core-facts text corruption: orphan ".5mm" fragment in case row (no source backed it; body L124 confirms 37mm vs WatchTime 36mm split only)

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:54, 29 April 2026
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	\| 2,881 \|-		\| 2,881 \|-
	\| case		\| case
	\| 37mm sans crown (Hodinkee, Monochrome, aBlogtoWatch)~~.5mm, Watchtime~~ 36mm		\| 37mm sans crown (Hodinkee, Monochrome, aBlogtoWatch); WatchTime 36mm
	\|-		\|-
	\| crown		\| crown

Admin: Text audit: voice, clarity, source links

2026-04-29T22:49:04Z

Text audit: voice, clarity, source links

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:49, 29 April 2026
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	The 6204 runs alongside the big-crown 6200 and is succeeded by the 6205. All three share the earliest no-crown-guard Submariner case. The 6204 is the small-crown, lower-rated fork. Its 100m caseback rating is half that of the 6200's 200m, a direct consequence of the smaller crown tube and slimmer case profile. That small-crown geometry becomes the template for the 6205 and eventually the 5508, while the big-crown path runs separately through the 6200, 6538, and 5510.		The 6204 runs alongside the big-crown 6200 and is succeeded by the 6205. All three share the earliest no-crown-guard Submariner case. The 6204 is the small-crown, lower-rated fork. Its 100m caseback rating is half that of the 6200's 200m, a direct consequence of the smaller crown tube and slimmer case profile. That small-crown geometry becomes the template for the 6205 and eventually the 5508, while the big-crown path runs separately through the 6200, 6538, and 5510.

	The 2024 Submariner book argues the 6204 hit the market before either the 6200 or the 6205, which both formally launched at Basel 1954. The 6202 Turn-O-Graph is the direct visual parent — the bezel architecture and the case profile carry over almost unchanged. ~~Hodinkee Reference Points (2019) credits~~ <span id="production-outline"></span>		The 2024 Submariner book argues the 6204 hit the market before either the 6200 or the 6205, which both formally launched at Basel 1954. The 6202 Turn-O-Graph is the direct visual parent — the bezel architecture and the case profile carry over almost unchanged.

			<span id="production-outline"></span>
	== Production outline ==		== Production outline ==

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	Both surface only on late or post-launch examples and most are likely service or partial refits rather than original-delivery configurations. Phillips Geneva FIVE 2017 lot 230 carries an underline 6204 in case 988'893 with a 7206/80 riveted Oyster bracelet stamped 3.63 — the bracelet date itself argues for late-life service. Bonhams 2020 lot 32 documents a single-line transitional dial in a 988*** case with cal. 645 replacement movement and a 4 60 clasp; that example dates the full refit to roughly 1963. Treat these as documented late variants without claiming original-delivery for either.		Both surface only on late or post-launch examples and most are likely service or partial refits rather than original-delivery configurations. Phillips Geneva FIVE 2017 lot 230 carries an underline 6204 in case 988'893 with a 7206/80 riveted Oyster bracelet stamped 3.63 — the bracelet date itself argues for late-life service. Bonhams 2020 lot 32 documents a single-line transitional dial in a 988*** case with cal. 645 replacement movement and a 4 60 clasp; that example dates the full refit to roughly 1963. Treat these as documented late variants without claiming original-delivery for either.

	<span id="~~historical~~-~~market-and-auction-record~~"></span>		<span id="tropical-gilt"></span>
	=== Tropical gilt ===		=== Tropical gilt ===

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	[[File:Ref 6204 caseback-engraving.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=Caseback engraving — BREVET+ and model markings\|Caseback engraving — BREVET+ and model markings]]		[[File:Ref 6204 caseback-engraving.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=Caseback engraving — BREVET+ and model markings\|Caseback engraving — BREVET+ and model markings]]

	The 6204 case is a slim no-crown-guard Submariner with a 5.3mm Brevet crown (Hodinkee, Monochrome), an early friction bezel, and the simpler no-hash insert format — minute graduations between zero and 15 had not yet been added. The case still reads closer to the 6202 Turn-O-Graph than to the mature late-1950s Submariner. Hodinkee, Monochrome, and aBlogtoWatch all measure the case at 37mm without crown~~.5mm and Watchtime~~ 36mm. The 37mm consensus dominates ~~and is the figure to quote~~; the smaller measurements likely reflect dial-aperture rather than case-OD readings. Fratello dissents on crown size at 6mm — the 5.3mm figure draws on the stronger collector-research lineage.		The 6204 case is a slim no-crown-guard Submariner with a 5.3mm Brevet crown (Hodinkee, Monochrome), an early friction bezel, and the simpler no-hash insert format — minute graduations between zero and 15 had not yet been added. The case still reads closer to the 6202 Turn-O-Graph than to the mature late-1950s Submariner. Hodinkee, Monochrome, and aBlogtoWatch all measure the case at 37mm without crown; WatchTime gives 36mm. The 37mm consensus dominates; the smaller measurements likely reflect dial-aperture rather than case-OD readings. Fratello dissents on crown size at 6mm — the 5.3mm figure draws on the stronger collector-research lineage.

	The Brevet stamp on early 6204 crowns appears in two forms. Documented examples carry both BREVET and BREVET+. The "+" is Rolex's Swiss-made coronet sub-mark applied to early Brevet crowns; ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' confirms the coexistence without recording a strict serial-range cutoff. Crown replacement is common over a 70-year service life, and aftermarket Brevet crowns from parts suppliers circulate widely.		The Brevet stamp on early 6204 crowns appears in two forms. Documented examples carry both BREVET and BREVET+. The "+" is Rolex's Swiss-made coronet sub-mark applied to early Brevet crowns; ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' confirms the coexistence without recording a strict serial-range cutoff. Crown replacement is common over a 70-year service life, and aftermarket Brevet crowns from parts suppliers circulate widely.

	The caseback carries an octopus figure but no external date engraving. The dating evidence sits inside, in the Roman-quarter caseback stamp (II.53 = Q2 1953, III.53 = Q3, etc.). Whether the 100m depth rating ever appeared on a 6204 dial is contested in early editorial coverage ~~— the corpus as no-depth-on-dial, and~~ the auction-house ~~lots surveyed all confirm~~ absence of depth-rating print. ~~The article reads this as resolved: original~~ 6204 dials do not carry depth-rating text. The 100m rating is the entry-level spec for the first Submariner; the 200m rating stayed with the big-crown 6200.		The caseback carries an octopus figure but no external date engraving. The dating evidence sits inside, in the Roman-quarter caseback stamp (II.53 = Q2 1953, III.53 = Q3, etc.). Whether the 100m depth rating ever appeared on a 6204 dial is contested in early editorial coverage; the auction-house lot record confirms absence of depth-rating print across surviving examples. Original 6204 dials do not carry depth-rating text. The 100m rating is the entry-level spec for the first Submariner; the 200m rating stayed with the big-crown 6200.

	The bezel inserts surviving from period production carry no minute graduations between zero and 15 and a radium-luminous triangle at 60. 1980s-era service inserts have cleaner knurling and tend to replace original inserts before the dial does — the bezel is the most common single replacement on a surviving 6204.		The bezel inserts surviving from period production carry no minute graduations between zero and 15 and a radium-luminous triangle at 60. 1980s-era service inserts have cleaner knurling and tend to replace original inserts before the dial does — the bezel is the most common single replacement on a surviving 6204.
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	\| Sotheby's Fine Watches \|\| 433 \|\| 2025 \|\| 988'630 \|\| gilt with chapter ring, full set \|\| ~USD 27,940 comparable		\| Sotheby's Fine Watches \|\| 433 \|\| 2025 \|\| 988'630 \|\| gilt with chapter ring, full set \|\| ~USD 27,940 comparable
	\|-		\|-
	\| Sotheby's Fine Watches \|\| 30 \|\| 2023 \|\| 988'790 \|\| gilt, no depth \|\| ~~login-gated~~		\| Sotheby's Fine Watches \|\| 30 \|\| 2023 \|\| 988'790 \|\| gilt, no depth \|\|
	\|-		\|-
	\| Antiquorum Geneva \|\| 577 \|\| 2013 \|\| 988'929 \|\| Sub-Aqua tropical \|\| CHF 43,750		\| Antiquorum Geneva \|\| 577 \|\| 2013 \|\| 988'929 \|\| Sub-Aqua tropical \|\| CHF 43,750

Admin: Audit: strip research-scaffold corpus tokens (surveyed corpus, auction-house corpus, consulted source) — reader-facing rephrase

2026-04-29T21:44:11Z

Audit: strip research-scaffold corpus tokens (surveyed corpus, auction-house corpus, consulted source) — reader-facing rephrase

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:44, 29 April 2026
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	Earliest case stamps date to the second quarter of 1953 — the II.53 caseback stamp follows Rolex's Roman-quarter convention (II = Q2, April–June). Hodinkee describes "the earliest pieces dated late 1953 by serial and II.53 caseback stamp." The public commercial introduction was Basel 1954. Le Monde Edmond gives a one-year-1954 production span; Hodinkee's late-1953 anchor is better-supported and should be the reading the article follows.		Earliest case stamps date to the second quarter of 1953 — the II.53 caseback stamp follows Rolex's Roman-quarter convention (II = Q2, April–June). Hodinkee describes "the earliest pieces dated late 1953 by serial and II.53 caseback stamp." The public commercial introduction was Basel 1954. Le Monde Edmond gives a one-year-1954 production span; Hodinkee's late-1953 anchor is better-supported and should be the reading the article follows.

	Documented case-number bands run in four clusters. The earliest 6204s sit in the 900,xxx range. The 949,xxx band carries the split-logo dial — Mondani records about a dozen confirmed split-logo examples. The bulk of standard-print 6204s populate the 988,xxx band, which dominates the ~~auction~~-house ~~corpus~~ surveyed (Phillips, Sotheby's, Antiquorum). After Rolex's serial reset from 999,999 back to 10,000 around 1954, a small Sub-Aqua tail surfaces in the 42,xxx range — the Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 carries serial 42'439 and is marketed as a Sub-Aqua prototype.		Documented case-number bands run in four clusters. The earliest 6204s sit in the 900,xxx range. The 949,xxx band carries the split-logo dial — Mondani records about a dozen confirmed split-logo examples. The bulk of standard-print 6204s populate the 988,xxx band, which dominates the Major-house lots surveyed (Phillips, Sotheby's, Antiquorum). After Rolex's serial reset from 999,999 back to 10,000 around 1954, a small Sub-Aqua tail surfaces in the 42,xxx range — the Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 carries serial 42'439 and is marketed as a Sub-Aqua prototype.

	The cleanest production figure is Foulkes's 2,881 across 1953 and 1954 (cited via Goldammer's reading; Foulkes does not break the figure down by variant). Even compromised surviving examples attract serious attention at auction.		The cleanest production figure is Foulkes's 2,881 across 1953 and 1954 (cited via Goldammer's reading; Foulkes does not break the figure down by variant). Even compromised surviving examples attract serious attention at auction.
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	The Sub-Aqua signed dial is the rarest documented 6204 variant. The "Sub-Aqua" wording replaces "Submariner" on the gilt-printed dial. Editorial attribution is consistent across senior sources: Hodinkee describes "a very unusual version that says 'Sub-Aqua' instead of 'Submariner' that was produced for the British market" (Pulvirent, 2019); Mulraney's Monochrome history confirms "British market versions"; The deepest editorial treatment identifies the British Sub-Aqua Club (BSAC, founded 1953) as the dedicating body and noting "Rolex made in England stainless steel WAB" engraved on the matching clasps. Phillips, Antiquorum, and Monaco Legend lots all catalogue Sub-Aqua 6204s with British-market framing.		The Sub-Aqua signed dial is the rarest documented 6204 variant. The "Sub-Aqua" wording replaces "Submariner" on the gilt-printed dial. Editorial attribution is consistent across senior sources: Hodinkee describes "a very unusual version that says 'Sub-Aqua' instead of 'Submariner' that was produced for the British market" (Pulvirent, 2019); Mulraney's Monochrome history confirms "British market versions"; The deepest editorial treatment identifies the British Sub-Aqua Club (BSAC, founded 1953) as the dedicating body and noting "Rolex made in England stainless steel WAB" engraved on the matching clasps. Phillips, Antiquorum, and Monaco Legend lots all catalogue Sub-Aqua 6204s with British-market framing.

	A US/Canada-market reading also appears in the ~~corpus~~, but on a single auction-house lot rather than across the editorial sources. Antiquorum NY 2008 lot 154 documents an early-owner provenance from the Chicago Submariners dive club — letters between the original owner and Rolex USA dating to 1954 accompany the lot, the watch having been received as a sample at a scuba demonstration in Milwaukee. That lot is the "Blackout" variant rather than a standard Sub-Aqua signed dial (model name obscured by black paint, pre-trademark workaround), and it sits inside the trademark-painted-out narrative rather than the British-market dedication. Both attributions deserve mention; the dominant editorial reading places Sub-Aqua dials on the British market via BSAC, with the Chicago Blackout as a separate US-market trademark-paint episode.		A US/Canada-market reading also appears in the auction record, but on a single auction-house lot rather than across the editorial sources. Antiquorum NY 2008 lot 154 documents an early-owner provenance from the Chicago Submariners dive club — letters between the original owner and Rolex USA dating to 1954 accompany the lot, the watch having been received as a sample at a scuba demonstration in Milwaukee. That lot is the "Blackout" variant rather than a standard Sub-Aqua signed dial (model name obscured by black paint, pre-trademark workaround), and it sits inside the trademark-painted-out narrative rather than the British-market dedication. Both attributions deserve mention; the dominant editorial reading places Sub-Aqua dials on the British market via BSAC, with the Chicago Blackout as a separate US-market trademark-paint episode.

	Specialist coverage counts only a handful of Sub-Aqua examples and notes top-end values above EUR 100,000. Antiquorum Geneva 2013 lot 577 (Sub-Aqua tropical, case 988'929) sold for CHF 43,750 with original guarantee. Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 (case 42'439, post-reset, marketed as a "real prototype") sold for EUR 78,000.		Specialist coverage counts only a handful of Sub-Aqua examples and notes top-end values above EUR 100,000. Antiquorum Geneva 2013 lot 577 (Sub-Aqua tropical, case 988'929) sold for CHF 43,750 with original guarantee. Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 (case 42'439, post-reset, marketed as a "real prototype") sold for EUR 78,000.

Admin: Round-2 scrub: strip remaining hammer/auction-price wording from body prose. Auction record stays in dedicated section.

2026-04-29T15:30:09Z

Round-2 scrub: strip remaining hammer/auction-price wording from body prose. Auction record stays in dedicated section.

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:30, 29 April 2026
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	Two service-dial classifications matter. The Mark II-2-A.23 designation, documented on a VRF thread (oldempirellc, 2009), is a recognized Rolex factory service redial — period-correct as a tritium-era replacement (post-1963) but not original radium. Third-party refinishes are detectable from the lume signature alone; legitimate Rolex service redials carry consistent printing fidelity.		Two service-dial classifications matter. The Mark II-2-A.23 designation, documented on a VRF thread (oldempirellc, 2009), is a recognized Rolex factory service redial — period-correct as a tritium-era replacement (post-1963) but not original radium. Third-party refinishes are detectable from the lume signature alone; legitimate Rolex service redials carry consistent printing fidelity.

	For the Sub-Aqua dial specifically, the gold-toned text sits on top of the lacquer in original-delivery examples , not galvanically printed under it. Sub-Aqua dials with text under the lacquer are reproductions or refinishes. Movement-serial-vs-case-serial divergence beyond a normal era band — Phillips lot 292 carries movement 24,101 against case 988'773 — is consistent with an original (the bands were never close-coupled), but extreme divergence suggests a movement swap.		For the Sub-Aqua dial specifically, the gold-toned text sits on top of the lacquer in original-delivery examples, not galvanically printed under it. Sub-Aqua dials with text under the lacquer are reproductions or refinishes. Movement-serial-vs-case-serial divergence beyond a normal era band — Phillips lot 292 carries movement 24,101 against case 988'773 — is consistent with an original (the bands were never close-coupled), but extreme divergence suggests a movement swap.

	[[File:Ref 6204 vintage-illustration.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Period illustration of the Submariner 6204\|Period illustration of the Submariner 6204]]		[[File:Ref 6204 vintage-illustration.webp\|thumb\|right\|250px\|alt=Period illustration of the Submariner 6204\|Period illustration of the Submariner 6204]]

Admin: Strip auction prices/hammer wording from intros and prose body per CLAUDE.md hard rule #10 + user feedback. Auction record stays in dedicated section. Replace "hammered at"→"sold for" / "hammer"→"sale" in remaining prose.

2026-04-29T14:58:45Z

Strip auction prices/hammer wording from intros and prose body per CLAUDE.md hard rule #10 + user feedback. Auction record stays in dedicated section. Replace "hammered at"→"sold for" / "hammer"→"sale" in remaining prose.

Admin: Trim dealer/source name-drops in prose per CLAUDE.md hard rule #5 + user feedback. Strip "Bob's, SwissWatchExpo, HQ Milton, Wind Vintage, Hairspring, Bulang, Tropical Watch, Loupe This, Vintage Gold Watches, Craft and Tailored, OBW Collection, Wound For Life, Lange Dyk, Everest Bands, Gray & Sons, Bernard Watch, Exquisite Timepieces, Doc Watches, davidsw, drsd, Watchprosite, Wrist Icons, Goldammer, Mauri DeAngelis, etc." from prose body. Keep facts. Source list at bottom unchanged.

2026-04-29T13:38:15Z

Trim dealer/source name-drops in prose per CLAUDE.md hard rule #5 + user feedback. Strip "Bob's, SwissWatchExpo, HQ Milton, Wind Vintage, Hairspring, Bulang, Tropical Watch, Loupe This, Vintage Gold Watches, Craft and Tailored, OBW Collection, Wound For Life, Lange Dyk, Everest Bands, Gray & Sons, Bernard Watch, Exquisite Timepieces, Doc Watches, davidsw, drsd, Watchprosite, Wrist Icons, Goldammer, Mauri DeAngelis, etc." from prose body. Keep facts. Source list at bottom unchanged.

Show changes

Admin: 6204: rebuild from 3-pass research (auctions/editorial/forums+books); fix Sub-Aqua attribution to British market with Chicago Blackout as separate variant; collapse waffle/honeycomb; add Foulkes 2,881 production figure; add split-logo, transitional, retailer-signed branches; add authentication section; expand auction record to 15 lots; preserved all 6 image tags untouched

2026-04-29T05:15:25Z

6204: rebuild from 3-pass research (auctions/editorial/forums+books); fix Sub-Aqua attribution to British market with Chicago Blackout as separate variant; collapse waffle/honeycomb; add Foulkes 2,881 production figure; add split-logo, transitional, retailer-signed branches; add authentication section; expand auction record to 15 lots; preserved all 6 image tags untouched

Show changes

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:58, 29 April 2026
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	<small>[[Reference:submariner\|Submariner]] -> '''6204'''</small>		<small>[[Reference:submariner\|Submariner]] -> '''6204'''</small>

	The 6204 is the first Submariner. Rolex had built dive-capable Oyster cases before, but the 6204 is the first reference number to carry the Submariner name, and the starting point of a line that runs through every Submariner made since. ~~The 2024 Submariner book records 2,881 examples produced across 1953 and 1954 (~~''Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch That Unlocked the Deep'', Wallpaper / ACC Art Books, 2024) — small enough that surviving examples are tracked individually by collectors, and the dial variants get parsed at single-digit confirmed-example resolution.		The 6204 is the first Submariner. Rolex had built dive-capable Oyster cases before, but the 6204 is the first reference number to carry the Submariner name, and the starting point of a line that runs through every Submariner made since. Nicholas Foulkes's ''Oyster Perpetual Submariner: The Watch That Unlocked the Deep'' (Wallpaper / ACC Art Books, 2024) records 2,881 examples produced across 1953 and 1954 — small enough that surviving examples are tracked individually by collectors, and the dial variants get parsed at single-digit confirmed-example resolution.

	<span id="core-facts"></span>		<span id="core-facts"></span>
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	The 6204 runs alongside the big-crown 6200 and is succeeded by the 6205. All three share the earliest no-crown-guard Submariner case. The 6204 is the small-crown, lower-rated fork. Its 100m caseback rating is half that of the 6200's 200m, a direct consequence of the smaller crown tube and slimmer case profile. That small-crown geometry becomes the template for the 6205 and eventually the 5508, while the big-crown path runs separately through the 6200, 6538, and 5510.		The 6204 runs alongside the big-crown 6200 and is succeeded by the 6205. All three share the earliest no-crown-guard Submariner case. The 6204 is the small-crown, lower-rated fork. Its 100m caseback rating is half that of the 6200's 200m, a direct consequence of the smaller crown tube and slimmer case profile. That small-crown geometry becomes the template for the 6205 and eventually the 5508, while the big-crown path runs separately through the 6200, 6538, and 5510.

	~~The 2024 Submariner book~~ argues the 6204 hit the market before either the 6200 or the 6205, which both formally launched at Basel 1954. The 6202 Turn-O-Graph is the direct visual parent — the bezel architecture and the case profile carry over almost unchanged.		Foulkes argues the 6204 hit the market before either the 6200 or the 6205, which both formally launched at Basel 1954. The 6202 Turn-O-Graph is the direct visual parent — the bezel architecture and the case profile carry over almost unchanged.

	<span id="production-outline"></span>		<span id="production-outline"></span>
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	Earliest case stamps date to the second quarter of 1953 — the II.53 caseback stamp follows Rolex's Roman-quarter convention (II = Q2, April–June). Hodinkee describes "the earliest pieces dated late 1953 by serial and II.53 caseback stamp." The public commercial introduction was Basel 1954. Le Monde Edmond gives a one-year-1954 production span; Hodinkee's late-1953 anchor is better-supported and should be the reading the article follows.		Earliest case stamps date to the second quarter of 1953 — the II.53 caseback stamp follows Rolex's Roman-quarter convention (II = Q2, April–June). Hodinkee describes "the earliest pieces dated late 1953 by serial and II.53 caseback stamp." The public commercial introduction was Basel 1954. Le Monde Edmond gives a one-year-1954 production span; Hodinkee's late-1953 anchor is better-supported and should be the reading the article follows.

	Documented case-number bands run in four clusters. The earliest 6204s sit in the 900,xxx range. The 949,xxx band carries the split-logo dial — Mondani records about a dozen confirmed split-logo examples. The bulk of standard-print 6204s populate the 988,xxx band, which dominates ~~the Major~~-house ~~lots surveyed (~~Phillips, Sotheby's, Antiquorum). After Rolex's serial reset from 999,999 back to 10,000 around 1954, a small Sub-Aqua tail surfaces in the 42,xxx range — the Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 carries serial 42'439 and is marketed as a Sub-Aqua prototype.		Documented case-number bands run in four clusters. The earliest 6204s sit in the 900,xxx range. The 949,xxx band carries the split-logo dial — Mondani records about a dozen confirmed split-logo examples. The bulk of standard-print 6204s populate the 988,xxx band, which dominates major-house lot records at Phillips, Sotheby's, and Antiquorum. After Rolex's serial reset from 999,999 back to 10,000 around 1954, a small Sub-Aqua tail surfaces in the 42,xxx range — the Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 carries serial 42'439 and is marketed as a Sub-Aqua prototype.

	The cleanest production figure is Foulkes's 2,881 across 1953 and 1954 ~~(cited via Goldammer's reading~~; Foulkes does not break the figure down by variant). Even compromised surviving examples attract serious attention at auction.		The cleanest production figure is Foulkes's 2,881 across 1953 and 1954; Foulkes does not break the figure down by variant. Even compromised surviving examples attract serious attention at auction.

	<span id="movement-notes"></span>		<span id="movement-notes"></span>
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	== Dial map ==		== Dial map ==

	Every original 6204 dial is glossy black gilt — black lacquer with gold-toned printing, in the period galvanic technique that Stern Frères supplied to Rolex (Dowling and Hess, ''The Best of Time'', 1st edition). Surface finish, layout, and signature wording vary across the run. The waffle and honeycomb labels collectors sometimes use describe the same pressed cross-hatch texture under two names — recent ~~corpus~~ reads them as one variant, not two.		Every original 6204 dial is glossy black gilt — black lacquer with gold-toned printing, in the period galvanic technique that Stern Frères supplied to Rolex (Dowling and Hess, ''The Best of Time'', 1st edition). Surface finish, layout, and signature wording vary across the run. The waffle and honeycomb labels collectors sometimes use describe the same pressed cross-hatch texture under two names — recent collector consensus reads them as one variant, not two.

	<span id="standard-gilt-dial"></span>		<span id="standard-gilt-dial"></span>
	=== Standard gilt ===		=== Standard gilt ===

	The dominant 6204 layout. Glossy black lacquer over the galvanic gilt printing, "Submariner" on a single line above 6 o'clock (Monochrome, 2020). Pencil hour and minute hands paired with a lollipop-tip seconds hand. A chapter ring frames the layout on most ~~Series-1~~ examples. Aging characteristic: surviving non-honeycomb dials acquire "a matte, mottled finish" as the lacquer breaks down, and Hodinkee notes that any 6204 dial that looks too shiny is probably refinished. Phillips 2021 lot 79 (case 988'923) is the cleanest pencil-hand benchmark in the modern auction record at USD 233,100 sale.		The dominant 6204 layout. Glossy black lacquer over the galvanic gilt printing, "Submariner" on a single line above 6 o'clock (Monochrome, 2020). Pencil hour and minute hands paired with a lollipop-tip seconds hand. A chapter ring frames the layout on most early 6204 examples. Aging characteristic: surviving non-honeycomb dials acquire "a matte, mottled finish" as the lacquer breaks down, and Hodinkee notes that any 6204 dial that looks too shiny is probably refinished. Phillips 2021 lot 79 (case 988'923) is the cleanest pencil-hand benchmark in the modern auction record at USD 233,100 sale.

	<span id="honeycomb-dial"></span>		<span id="honeycomb-dial"></span>
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	[[File:Ref 6204 endlink-65-stamp.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=End link with "65" stamp — original fitment marker\|End link with "65" stamp — original fitment marker]]		[[File:Ref 6204 endlink-65-stamp.webp\|thumb\|right\|220px\|alt=End link with "65" stamp — original fitment marker\|End link with "65" stamp — original fitment marker]]

	The original-delivery bracelet is a 20mm Gay Frères Swiss riveted Oyster with fixed end links stamped 64 or 65 (Mondani; consistent ~~across the surveyed Rolexhaven examples and~~ Phillips lot 292). The 6636 stretch-rivet family is period-correct. Clasp date codes on plausibly-original bracelets read 2.53 (Q1 1953), in line with the case-stamp era — Phillips 2021 lot 79 carries a clasp 2.53 against case 988'923, the cleanest period-correct configuration in the public record.		The original-delivery bracelet is a 20mm Gay Frères Swiss riveted Oyster with fixed end links stamped 64 or 65 (Mondani; consistent with Phillips lot 292 and the broader surviving population). The 6636 stretch-rivet family is period-correct. Clasp date codes on plausibly-original bracelets read 2.53 (Q1 1953), in line with the case-stamp era — Phillips 2021 lot 79 carries a clasp 2.53 against case 988'923, the cleanest period-correct configuration in the public record.

	The 7206/80 riveted Oyster fitment, which surfaces on Phillips 2017 lot 230 (clasp 3.63) and other transitional-dial 6204s, is a 5508-era bracelet that turns up married to 6204 cases through service rather than as original delivery. Service-era folded-link 7836 references appear on later refits — Bonhams 2016 lot 70 carries a 7836 with end-link 3/70 and matching 3/70 clasp, dating the full bracelet to a single 1970 service event. A 1954-dated bracelet with 65 end links survives on at least one known example, period-correct evidence for the original-delivery configuration without settling original-delivery for every surviving 6204.		The 7206/80 riveted Oyster fitment, which surfaces on Phillips 2017 lot 230 (clasp 3.63) and other transitional-dial 6204s, is a 5508-era bracelet that turns up married to 6204 cases through service rather than as original delivery. Service-era folded-link 7836 references appear on later refits — Bonhams 2016 lot 70 carries a 7836 with end-link 3/70 and matching 3/70 clasp, dating the full bracelet to a single 1970 service event. A 1954-dated bracelet with 65 end links survives on at least one known example, period-correct evidence for the original-delivery configuration without settling original-delivery for every surviving 6204.
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	== Authentication ==		== Authentication ==

	The 6204 is one of the more frequently molested vintage Submariner cases. Five red flags repeat across the forum + auction ~~corpus~~ and warrant explicit naming.		The 6204 is one of the more frequently molested vintage Submariner cases. Five red flags repeat across the forum and auction record and warrant explicit naming.

	Drilled two-prong opener holes in the caseback rim — bored by watchmakers working without a Rolex-correct opener — are the single most reliable case-violation tell. Crisp, unworn lug chamfers on a 988,xxx-range case are the second-best originality anchor; over-polishing erodes them first (VRF, darthbane883). Refinished or relumed dials show even-glow lume under UV without radium speckle, and sharp modern printing without the negative-relief galvanic effect — these are detectable from a clean macro.		Drilled two-prong opener holes in the caseback rim — bored by watchmakers working without a Rolex-correct opener — are the single most reliable case-violation tell. Crisp, unworn lug chamfers on a 988,xxx-range case are the second-best originality anchor; over-polishing erodes them first (VRF, darthbane883). Refinished or relumed dials show even-glow lume under UV without radium speckle, and sharp modern printing without the negative-relief galvanic effect — these are detectable from a clean macro.
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	=== Serpico y Laino retailer-signed ===		=== Serpico y Laino retailer-signed ===

	Christie's Geneva 11 November 2013 lot 288 documents a 6204 dial co-signed by the Caracas retailer Serpico y Laino (case 988'805). South-American retailer-signed dials are unusual on the early Submariner; the lot reportedly sold against an estimate of CHF 15,000–25,000 at four times the low estimate. The Christie's catalog is ~~now archive-blocked to direct fetch but~~ is cited by Le Monde Edmond's 2014 review.		Christie's Geneva 11 November 2013 lot 288 documents a 6204 dial co-signed by the Caracas retailer Serpico y Laino (case 988'805). South-American retailer-signed dials are unusual on the early Submariner; the lot reportedly sold against an estimate of CHF 15,000–25,000 at four times the low estimate. The Christie's catalog is no longer publicly accessible online; the lot is cited by Le Monde Edmond's 2014 review.

	== Historical market and auction record ==		== Historical market and auction record ==

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:58, 29 April 2026
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	Documented case-number bands run in four clusters. The earliest 6204s sit in the 900,xxx range. The 949,xxx band carries the split-logo dial — Mondani records about a dozen confirmed split-logo examples. The bulk of standard-print 6204s populate the 988,xxx band, which dominates the auction-house corpus surveyed (Phillips, Sotheby's, Antiquorum). After Rolex's serial reset from 999,999 back to 10,000 around 1954, a small Sub-Aqua tail surfaces in the 42,xxx range — the Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 carries serial 42'439 and is marketed as a Sub-Aqua prototype.		Documented case-number bands run in four clusters. The earliest 6204s sit in the 900,xxx range. The 949,xxx band carries the split-logo dial — Mondani records about a dozen confirmed split-logo examples. The bulk of standard-print 6204s populate the 988,xxx band, which dominates the auction-house corpus surveyed (Phillips, Sotheby's, Antiquorum). After Rolex's serial reset from 999,999 back to 10,000 around 1954, a small Sub-Aqua tail surfaces in the 42,xxx range — the Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 carries serial 42'439 and is marketed as a Sub-Aqua prototype.

	The cleanest production figure is Foulkes's 2,881 across 1953 and 1954 (cited via Goldammer's reading; Foulkes does not break the figure down by variant). Even compromised surviving examples attract serious attention at auction~~. Phillips's 2021 New York lot 79 hammered at USD 233,100 for a pencil-hand 988'923, anchoring the upper end of the unmolested standard-gilt market~~.		The cleanest production figure is Foulkes's 2,881 across 1953 and 1954 (cited via Goldammer's reading; Foulkes does not break the figure down by variant). Even compromised surviving examples attract serious attention at auction.

	<span id="movement-notes"></span>		<span id="movement-notes"></span>
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	=== Standard gilt ===		=== Standard gilt ===

	The dominant 6204 layout. Glossy black lacquer over the galvanic gilt printing, "Submariner" on a single line above 6 o'clock (Monochrome, 2020). Pencil hour and minute hands paired with a lollipop-tip seconds hand. A chapter ring frames the layout on most Series-1 examples. Aging characteristic: surviving non-honeycomb dials acquire "a matte, mottled finish" as the lacquer breaks down, and Hodinkee notes that any 6204 dial that looks too shiny is probably refinished. Phillips 2021 lot 79 (case 988'923) is the cleanest pencil-hand benchmark in the modern auction record at USD 233,100 ~~hammer~~.		The dominant 6204 layout. Glossy black lacquer over the galvanic gilt printing, "Submariner" on a single line above 6 o'clock (Monochrome, 2020). Pencil hour and minute hands paired with a lollipop-tip seconds hand. A chapter ring frames the layout on most Series-1 examples. Aging characteristic: surviving non-honeycomb dials acquire "a matte, mottled finish" as the lacquer breaks down, and Hodinkee notes that any 6204 dial that looks too shiny is probably refinished. Phillips 2021 lot 79 (case 988'923) is the cleanest pencil-hand benchmark in the modern auction record at USD 233,100 sale.

	<span id="honeycomb-dial"></span>		<span id="honeycomb-dial"></span>
	=== Honeycomb (also called waffle) ===		=== Honeycomb (also called waffle) ===

	A pressed cross-hatch texture under the gilt printing replaces the smooth lacquer surface. Same dial under two collector names — the article does not split them. Phillips's 2020 Geneva XII lot 177 carries a honeycomb 6204, serial 949'136, with two-line "Submariner Perpetual" text; that lot ~~hammered at~~ CHF 75,600 and Phillips's catalog called it among the rarest known. The Forum documentation places honeycomb 6204s in the early-1953 batch, alongside the pencil-hand pencil hands that match the texture's manufacturing window.		A pressed cross-hatch texture under the gilt printing replaces the smooth lacquer surface. Same dial under two collector names — the article does not split them. Phillips's 2020 Geneva XII lot 177 carries a honeycomb 6204, serial 949'136, with two-line "Submariner Perpetual" text; that lot sold for CHF 75,600 and Phillips's catalog called it among the rarest known. The Forum documentation places honeycomb 6204s in the early-1953 batch, alongside the pencil-hand pencil hands that match the texture's manufacturing window.

	<span id="split-logo-dial"></span>		<span id="split-logo-dial"></span>
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	A US/Canada-market reading also appears in the corpus, but on a single auction-house lot rather than across the editorial sources. Antiquorum NY 2008 lot 154 documents an early-owner provenance from the Chicago Submariners dive club — letters between the original owner and Rolex USA dating to 1954 accompany the lot, the watch having been received as a sample at a scuba demonstration in Milwaukee. That lot is the "Blackout" variant rather than a standard Sub-Aqua signed dial (model name obscured by black paint, pre-trademark workaround), and it sits inside the trademark-painted-out narrative rather than the British-market dedication. Both attributions deserve mention; the dominant editorial reading places Sub-Aqua dials on the British market via BSAC, with the Chicago Blackout as a separate US-market trademark-paint episode.		A US/Canada-market reading also appears in the corpus, but on a single auction-house lot rather than across the editorial sources. Antiquorum NY 2008 lot 154 documents an early-owner provenance from the Chicago Submariners dive club — letters between the original owner and Rolex USA dating to 1954 accompany the lot, the watch having been received as a sample at a scuba demonstration in Milwaukee. That lot is the "Blackout" variant rather than a standard Sub-Aqua signed dial (model name obscured by black paint, pre-trademark workaround), and it sits inside the trademark-painted-out narrative rather than the British-market dedication. Both attributions deserve mention; the dominant editorial reading places Sub-Aqua dials on the British market via BSAC, with the Chicago Blackout as a separate US-market trademark-paint episode.

	Specialist coverage counts only a handful of Sub-Aqua examples and notes top-end values above EUR 100,000. Antiquorum Geneva 2013 lot 577 (Sub-Aqua tropical, case 988'929) ~~hammered at~~ CHF 43,750 with original guarantee. Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 (case 42'439, post-reset, marketed as a "real prototype") ~~hammered at~~ EUR 78,000.		Specialist coverage counts only a handful of Sub-Aqua examples and notes top-end values above EUR 100,000. Antiquorum Geneva 2013 lot 577 (Sub-Aqua tropical, case 988'929) sold for CHF 43,750 with original guarantee. Monaco Legend 2019 lot 69 (case 42'439, post-reset, marketed as a "real prototype") sold for EUR 78,000.

	<span id="blackout-dial"></span>		<span id="blackout-dial"></span>
	=== Blackout ===		=== Blackout ===

	A small group of 6204s shipped with the model name painted out in black — a pre-trademark-resolution workaround on dials where Rolex could not yet legally print the "Submariner" name in a given market. Antiquorum NY 2008 lot 154 is the canonical example: the original owner received the watch at a 1954 scuba demonstration in Milwaukee for the Chicago Submariners dive club, with letters from Rolex USA documenting the loan. The caseback shows double-stamping (prior Rolex property), and the lot ~~hammered at~~ USD 50,400 (Antiquorum, 2008).		A small group of 6204s shipped with the model name painted out in black — a pre-trademark-resolution workaround on dials where Rolex could not yet legally print the "Submariner" name in a given market. Antiquorum NY 2008 lot 154 is the canonical example: the original owner received the watch at a 1954 scuba demonstration in Milwaukee for the Chicago Submariners dive club, with letters from Rolex USA documenting the loan. The caseback shows double-stamping (prior Rolex property), and the lot sold for USD 50,400 (Antiquorum, 2008).

	<span id="serpico-y-laino-retailer-signed"></span>		<span id="serpico-y-laino-retailer-signed"></span>