BezelBase - User contributions [en]

Main Page

2026-08-15T05:30:04Z

Admin: Refresh featured watch (weekly rotation) + recently-updated (from RecentChanges)

__NOTOC__
<div style="display:none;">{{DISPLAYTITLE:BezelBase}}</div>
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Reference Encyclopedia {{!}} BezelBase
|description=Encyclopedic reference for Rolex watches. Vintage and discontinued Rolex references documented — specs, dial variants, serial ranges, production history.
|keywords=watch reference, Rolex, Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, Rolex Explorer, Rolex GMT-Master, Rolex Day-Date, President, Rolex Bubbleback, Rolex Prince, Brancard, Oyster, Ovettone, vintage Rolex, collector guide, watch history, production history, dial variants
|image=Bezelbase_main_poster.webp
|image_alt=BezelBase — vintage Rolex reference encyclopedia
|image_width=1280
|image_height=1280
|og_type=website
}}

<div style="max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1em;">

<div style="margin: 0.5em 0 1.5em 0;">
Rolex changed what a wristwatch could do. The Oyster case (1926) made watches waterproof, the Perpetual rotor (1931) made them self-winding, the Prince (1928) built them to chronometer grade. Watchmakers and collectors have spent the decades since cataloguing what changed across each reference. BezelBase tries to store this information in a single place.

Each article documents one Rolex reference: production years, movement, dial variants, case and bracelet details, auction record, and the things to check when authenticating one. Coverage spans the main Rolex lines so the history reads as one connected archive.

Inside one reference, the watch can change a lot. A 5512 from 1962 is not the 5512 from 1978. A pointed-crown-guard 1675 is not the late matte 1675. Generation matters first. [[BezelBase:About|About →]]
</div>


== From the archive: Submariner 5513 ==

<div style="display:flex; gap:18px; padding:16px; margin:0 0 2em 0; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555;">
<div style="flex:0 0 240px; align-self:flex-start;">
[[File:Ref 5513 hero.webp|frameless|240px|link=Reference:5513]]
</div>
<div style="flex:1; min-width:0;">
The [[Reference:5513|5513]] ran for 27 continuous years, the longest of any Submariner. A no-date diver that started gilt and glossy in 1962 and ended matte and modern in 1989, it carries more meaningful dial, bezel, and hand variants than any other reference in the family. Generation matters here more than almost anywhere in vintage Rolex.

'''[[Reference:5513|Read the full 5513 article →]]'''
</div>
</div>



== Recently updated ==
* '''14 August 2026''' — [[Reference:1003|1003]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1005|1005]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1002|1002]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:6429|6429]] (Explorer)
* '''13 August 2026''' — [[Reference:1802|1802]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:118209|118209]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:118139|118139]] (Day-Date)
* '''11 August 2026''' — [[Reference:2136|2136]] (Oyster) · [[Reference:6075|6075]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6031|6031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5031|5031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5030|5030]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:114200|114200]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:1007|1007]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:5504|5504]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:14000|14000]] (Air-King)
* '''10 August 2026''' — [[Reference:6262|6262]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:116515LN|116515LN]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:19018|19018]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:1018|1018]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:6298|6298]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:5506|5506]] (Air-King)


== Submariner ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-five-digit 1953–90
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6204|6204]] · [[Reference:6205|6205]] · [[Reference:6200|6200]] · [[Reference:6536|6536]] · [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] · [[Reference:6538|6538]] · [[Reference:5508|5508]] · [[Reference:5510|5510]] · [[Reference:5512|5512]] · [[Reference:5513|5513]] · [[Reference:5514|5514]] · [[Reference:5517|5517]] · [[Reference:1680|1680]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Five-digit 1979–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14060|14060]] · [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] · [[Reference:16800|16800]] · [[Reference:16610|16610]] · [[Reference:16610LV|16610LV]] · [[Reference:16803|16803]] · [[Reference:16808|16808]] · [[Reference:16613|16613]] · [[Reference:16618|16618]]
|}

'''[[Reference:submariner|→ Full Submariner index]]'''

== Daytona ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Manual-wind chronograph 1962–1988
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6238|6238]] · [[Reference:6239|6239]] · [[Reference:6240|6240]] · [[Reference:6241|6241]] · [[Reference:6262|6262]] · [[Reference:6263|6263]] · [[Reference:6264|6264]] · [[Reference:6265|6265]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Zenith automatic 1988–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16520|16520]] · [[Reference:16518|16518]] · [[Reference:16519|16519]] · [[Reference:16523|16523]] · [[Reference:16528|16528]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | In-house cal 4130 2000–2016
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116520|116520]] · [[Reference:116523|116523]] · [[Reference:116528|116528]]
|}

'''[[Reference:daytona|→ Full Daytona index]]'''

== Explorer ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1952–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6150|6150]] · [[Reference:6350|6350]] · [[Reference:6610|6610]] · [[Reference:1016|1016]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 1989–2021
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14270|14270]] · [[Reference:114270|114270]] · [[Reference:214270|214270]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer|→ Full Explorer index]]'''

== Explorer II ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage Freccione 1971–1984
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1655|1655]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Transitional 1985–1989
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16550|16550]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 40mm 1989–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16570|16570]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer-ii|→ Full Explorer II index]]'''

== GMT-Master ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1955–99
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6542|6542]] · [[Reference:1675|1675]] · [[Reference:16750|16750]] · [[Reference:16753|16753]] · [[Reference:16758|16758]] · [[Reference:16700|16700]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | GMT-Master II 1983–2007
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16760|16760]] · [[Reference:16710|16710]] · [[Reference:16713|16713]] · [[Reference:16718|16718]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 5-digit 2005–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116718LN|116718LN]] · [[Reference:116713LN|116713LN]] · [[Reference:116710LN|116710LN]] · [[Reference:116710BLNR|116710BLNR]] · [[Reference:116719BLRO|116719BLRO]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 6-digit 2018–present
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:126710BLRO|126710BLRO]] · [[Reference:126711CHNR|126711CHNR]] · [[Reference:126715CHNR|126715CHNR]] · [[Reference:126710BLNR|126710BLNR]] · [[Reference:126720VTNR|126720VTNR]] · [[Reference:126713GRNR|126713GRNR]] · [[Reference:126718GRNR|126718GRNR]] · [[Reference:126710GRNR|126710GRNR]]
|}

'''[[Reference:gmt-master|→ Full GMT-Master index]]'''

== Oyster & Bubbleback ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-Oyster & Oyster 1922–37
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:3666|3666]] · [[Reference:2136|2136]] · [[Reference:3003|3003]] · [[Reference:3004|3004]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Bubbleback era 1933–45
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1858|1858]] · [[Reference:3131|3131]] · [[Reference:3372|3372]] · [[Reference:3525|3525]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Datejust / Padellone / Super Oyster 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4467|4467]] · [[Reference:5030|5030]] · [[Reference:5031|5031]] · [[Reference:6031|6031]] · [[Reference:6075|6075]] · [[Reference:6105|6105]] · [[Reference:8171|8171]] · [[Reference:6098|6098]]
|}

'''[[Reference:bubbleback|→ Full Bubbleback index]]'''

== Day-Date ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Originals 1956–59
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6510|6510]] · [[Reference:6511|6511]] · [[Reference:6611|6611]] · [[Reference:6612|6612]] · [[Reference:6612B|6612B]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 4-digit President 1959–78
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1803|1803]] · [[Reference:1804|1804]] · [[Reference:1806|1806]] · [[Reference:1807|1807]] · [[Reference:1811|1811]] · [[Reference:1831|1831]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 5-digit 1977–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:18038|18038]] · [[Reference:18028|18028]] · [[Reference:18048|18048]] · [[Reference:18078|18078]] · [[Reference:18238|18238]] · [[Reference:18248|18248]] · [[Reference:18348|18348]] · [[Reference:18208|18208]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 6-digit Day-Date 36 2000–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:118238|118238]] · [[Reference:118208|118208]] · [[Reference:118235|118235]] · [[Reference:118138|118138]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Day-Date II 41mm 2008–15
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:218238|218238]] · [[Reference:218206|218206]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Oysterquartz 1977–2001
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:19018|19018]]
|}

'''[[Reference:day-date|→ Full Day-Date index]]'''

== Air-King ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Battle of Britain origin 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4925|4925]] · [[Reference:4365|4365]] · [[Reference:4499|4499]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | First automatic 1953–57
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6552|6552]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Long-run mainstay 1957–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:5500|5500]] · [[Reference:5501|5501]] · [[Reference:5502|5502]] · [[Reference:5504|5504]] · [[Reference:5506|5506]] · [[Reference:5520|5520]] · [[Reference:5700|5700]] · [[Reference:5701|5701]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Sapphire era 1989–2014
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14000|14000]] · [[Reference:14000M|14000M]] · [[Reference:114200|114200]]
|}

'''[[Reference:air-king|→ Full Air-King index]]'''

== Prince ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Brancard era 1928–mid-1940s
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1343|1343]] · [[Reference:971|971]] · [[Reference:1490|1490]] · [[Reference:1491|1491]] · [[Reference:1527|1527]] · [[Reference:1862|1862]] · [[Reference:3361|3361]] · [[Reference:3937|3937]]
|}

'''[[Reference:prince|→ Full Prince index]]'''

== Reference guides ==

Three pages cover material that applies across every Rolex line documented here. '''[[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelets]]''' catalogs bracelet refs, end links, clasps, and link types alongside the clasp date-code key. '''[[Reference:Movements|Movements]]''' lists every caliber spanning the manual-wind chronograph, Zenith-driven, and in-house generations. '''[[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]]''' decodes the three Rolex serial systems — numeric pre-1987, letter 1987–2010, and random alphanumeric 2010+.

</div>

[[Category:BezelBase]]

Reference:1003

2026-08-14T21:29:11Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 3 verified Antiquorum auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1003 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 — Engine-Turned Bezel & Coca-Cola Dials | BezelBase
|description=The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the late 1970s, in steel, 14k and 18k gold and British 9-carat cases. Its auction record is dominated by Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service dials, and the strongest steel result is the Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse' Air-King.
|keywords=Rolex 1003, Oyster Perpetual, engine-turned bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Minnie Mouse Air-King, 9K gold Glasgow import, 1003/1005
|image=Ref 1003 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 in steel with an engine-turned bezel and a spotted cream dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:00Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:46Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1003'''

The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, and the one the catalogues struggle to describe. Rolex's own term for the bezel is engine-turned; Sotheby's has called it milled, Bonhams has called it milled and ridged in the same decade, and Antiquorum, on the examples that matter most, calls it a graduated engine-turned bezel with hour divisions. Underneath the argument is the same watch as the smooth [[Reference:1002|1002]]: 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal, chronometer-rated no-date automatic, caliber 1560 and then caliber 1570.

Its documented population splits along an unusual line. Steel 1003s are ordinary and trade like ordinary vintage Rolex. The gold ones are mostly not catalogue watches at all: they are twenty-five-year service awards, and Coca-Cola commissioned enough of them that the reference's auction record is dominated by a single corporate gift programme. The best 1003 result on file is a Coca-Cola dial that went for roughly five times its high estimate.

[[File:Ref 1003 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1003, circa 1975, with the engine-turned bezel and a heavily spotted cream dial]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1003
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the late 1970s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 9k and 9ct gold for the British market
|-
| bezel
| engine-turned, graduated with hour divisions on documented gold examples
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| rivet Oyster, later folded Oyster, gold fold-over bracelets, leather
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1003/1002 and 1003/1005
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Four reference numbers in this family carry engine-turned bezels, and the published literature does not draw a clean line between the 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008. What separates them in practice is the number engraved between the lugs, not a feature anyone can call from a photograph. The 1003 is the most frequently catalogued of the four and the one that turns up in gold most often.

Against the rest of the group the position is straightforward. The [[Reference:1002|1002]] is the same watch with a plain surround and sold in far greater numbers; the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the gold fluted bezel; the [[Reference:1007|1007]] is the closest sibling of all and the one with the widest documented dial spread. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] scales the same design up to 36mm on 20mm lugs. The 1003 belongs to a middle tier of the line: dressier than the plain 1002, less formal than the fluted 1005, and available in steel or gold at either end of the range.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959 and gives the practical start of the run. The earliest documented 1003s sit right on it: case number 512,833, catalogued circa 1960, and case number 573,835, whose chronometer certificate is dated 22 December 1960. A Glasgow import mark for 1961 dates a 9K gold example, and a 9ct gold watch with its original 1966 receipt dates itself.

The run continues through case number 531,734 in 1966, 1,197,501 in 1964, 3,044,042 in 1972, 3,960,865 around 1975 and 5,426,177 in 1977. The Antiquorum lot that closes the record describes a watch produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, which is the latest documented delivery. That places the reference's end alongside the rest of the 4-digit no-date group rather than with the [[Reference:1002|1002]], which carried on into the 1980s.

No production figure has been published, and the shape of the surviving population is uneven: steel examples appear regularly in general watch sales, while gold examples concentrate in the service-award group.

==Movement notes==

Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel caliber 1530, movement number 98643, in a 1003 accompanied by a chronometer certificate dated December 1960; the same house recorded a 1530 in a [[Reference:1002|1002]] bought in 1962. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance lists the 1530 only against the 5500 family and gives the 1003 to calibers 1560 and 1570, so the earliest movement in this reference is documented by catalogue text rather than by the published table.

Caliber 1560 runs from the start to about 1965. It is a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with an overcoil hairspring, a shock-protected free-sprung balance and Microstella regulating screws; the earliest examples carry the butterfly rotor, which Bonhams noted explicitly on a 1960 gold watch. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 at 19,800 vph, and Antiquorum's description of a 1972 example records the oeil-de-perdrix decoration and the self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964]]

Silvered is the default and covers most of the record: sunburst and satiné finishes on steel and gold alike, with applied baton or dart markers, luminous five-minute dots and a printed chronometer line. A cream or beige tone appears on aged gold examples, and Artcurial's 1966 gold watch is described as patinated cream. Sotheby's 2021 steel example photographs as a heavily spotted cream dial with rose-toned markers, the kind of tropical change that reads as condition rather than as a factory variant.

Beyond the silvered default the record splits three ways. The corporate service dials are the largest branch and are covered below. Air-King dials turn up in 1003 cases, in silver and in blue, which follows from the case-middle sharing with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] and is why Antiquorum catalogued one steel watch as ref 1003/1002 with an Air-King dial. British-market gold examples carry silvered dials with applied gilt dart markers and Arabic numerals at the quarters, a configuration Bonhams documented on both the 1961 Glasgow watch and the 1960 New York one.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1003 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|9K gold British-market 1003 with a Glasgow import mark for 1961, silvered dial with gilt dart markers and Arabic quarters]]

The case is the shared 34mm three-body Oyster, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal. Antiquorum's two most detailed lots give the case as 34mm across and 12mm thick, which is the measurement to trust; house figures elsewhere range from 33mm to 35mm on the same case.

The bezel is the reference's identity and the thing catalogue text handles worst. Antiquorum's descriptions are the most useful, because they specify what the milling does: an engine-turned bezel with hour divisions, described on one lot as graduated. That is a bezel whose cut segments are indexed to the hours rather than a continuous decorative knurl, and it is the detail that separates a 1003 from a generic milled surround. Bonhams has called the same bezel milled, and Artcurial described a 1966 example as semi engine-turned, which suggests the pattern was not uniform across the run.

Case material spreads wider than the steel-and-gold summary implies. Stainless steel is the volume production and 14k and 18k yellow gold both appear. The British market took 9-carat cases, and Bonhams has catalogued 1003s described as 9K and as 9ct gold in three separate sales, one of them hallmarked with a Glasgow import mark for 1961. As on the rest of the family, the reference between the lugs names the bezel and the stamp inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling, which is why the paired forms 1003/1002 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery follows the family pattern: riveted Oyster bracelets through the 1960s, folded links afterwards. Antiquorum's 1964 Air-King-dial example came on a steel riveted Rolex bracelet, which is period-correct for the case number. Gold watches went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle, and one British 9ct example is documented on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet with a locking clasp. Later examples come to auction on leather more often than on their original metal, and several catalogued 1003s carry associated straps and buckles rather than factory fitments.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Coca-Cola service awards===
[[File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|thumb|right|250px|The 25 Years of Service Coca-Cola dial on a yellow gold ref 1003/1005, circa 1977]]

Coca-Cola marked twenty-five years of employee service with a gold Oyster Perpetual, and the 1003 is the reference the programme used most visibly. The configuration is consistent: a gold case under the paired designation 1003/1005 or 1003/1002, a satiné or matte silver dial carrying the Coca-Cola script logo and a 25 Years Service dedication, applied gold baton indexes with tritium dots, and gold baton hands. Antiquorum sold an 18k example from the Mondani collection in 2006, case number 5,426,177, made in 1977; Sotheby's Geneva sold the same watch in 2014. A second, case number 3,044,042, made in 1972, passed through Antiquorum in 2007. A third, produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, came up in New York in 2004.

The programme was not confined to this reference. Christie's Dubai and Sotheby's Geneva both catalogued a 14k gold [[Reference:1002|1002]] on the same award, Artcurial sold a 14k [[Reference:1005|1005]] with the caseback engraved for its recipient, and Heritage catalogued a 14k 1005 with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription. What distinguishes the 1003 group is the strength of the results, which sit an order of magnitude above ordinary examples of the reference.

===The Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse'===
[[File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|thumb|right|250px|The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text]]

Sotheby's sold a steel watch in New York in October 2020 catalogued as "Reference 1003 Air-King 'Minnie Mouse'". The dial is silvered, carries Air-King and PRECISION text, and has a printed Minnie Mouse figure standing between the centre and six o'clock. Case number 3,011,703 dates it to about 1972; the inner caseback is stamped 1002 and the movement is caliber 1570. Character dials were made for the Air-King line rather than for the chronometer references, so what the lot documents is a character-dial Air-King in a 1003-engraved case rather than a factory 1003 variant. It is the strongest steel result on the reference, above its high estimate.

===The Diesel Power Company dial===

Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold 1003 in Monte-Carlo in July 2011, case number 531,734, circa 1966, with a patinated cream dial carrying a Diesel Power Company service logo. The configuration parallels the Coca-Cola awards without belonging to them, and it establishes that Rolex supplied service dials on this reference to more than one corporate client.

===British-market gold cases===

Bonhams has catalogued three 1003s in 9-carat gold, a case material Rolex used for the British market where import duty made 18-carat cases expensive. One carries a Glasgow import mark for 1961 with caliber 1560; another, case number 512,833, is a 1960 New York lot with the butterfly rotor; a third is a 1966 watch on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet, sold with its original receipt. Hallmarks on these cases date the import rather than the movement, and the assay office letter is the practical dating tool where the case number has worn away.

==Auction record==

Steel 1003s trade in the low four figures, and the gold ones split sharply by dial. An unmarked gold 1003 sits in the same band as a good steel example; a Coca-Cola service dial multiplies it. Sotheby's Geneva sold one for roughly five times its high estimate in 2014, and the same watch had made a strong result at Antiquorum eight years earlier from the Mondani collection, so the premium is not a one-sale accident. The Minnie Mouse Air-King is the strongest steel result and reflects the character-dial market rather than the reference.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| May 2014
| Sotheby's Geneva, Important Watches, lot 216
| yellow gold, "25 Years of Service Coca-Cola" dial, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, c.1977
| CHF 37,500 (est. CHF 6,000–8,000)
|-
| Oct 2007
| Antiquorum Geneva, Important Collectors' Watches, lot 486
| yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 3,044,042, made 1972
| CHF 12,980 (est. CHF 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2006
| Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection, lot 111
| 18k yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, made 1977
| CHF 11,800 (est. CHF 8,000–10,000)
|-
| Oct 2020
| Sotheby's New York, Watches, lot 97
| steel Air-King 'Minnie Mouse', cal 1570, case 3,011,703, c.1972
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 4,000–6,000)
|-
| Jul 2011
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Fine Watches, lot 406
| 14k yellow gold, Diesel Power Company service dial, case 531,734, c.1966
| EUR 4,335 (est. EUR 3,000–3,500)
|-
| Jun 2021
| Sotheby's Geneva, Fine Watches, lot 42
| steel, spotted cream dial, cal 1570, case 3,960,865, c.1975
| CHF 2,142 (est. CHF 1,000–3,000)
|-
| Nov 2017
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 121
| 9K gold, Glasgow import mark for 1961, cal 1560, silvered dial with Arabic quarters
| GBP 2,000
|-
| Nov 2016
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 38
| steel with Air-King dial, ref 1003/1002, case 1,197,501, made 1964, rivet bracelet
| CHF 1,875 (est. CHF 1,000–2,000)
|-
| Dec 2007
| Bonhams New York, Fine Watches and Wristwatches, lot 125
| 9k gold, cal 1560 with butterfly rotor, case 512,833, c.1960
| USD 1,440
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Montres, lot 84
| steel, cal 1530, case 573,835, chronometer certificate dated December 1960
| GBP 960
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 216 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years of Service", Sotheby's, 2014-05-14
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-108-111 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva The Mondani Collection Lot 111 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-171-486 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Collectors' Watches Lot 486 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 1972", Antiquorum, 2007-10-14]
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Collector's Wristwatches Lot 118 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2004-03-24
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-5/rolex-reference-1003-air-king-minnie-mouse-a Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Lot 97 — Rolex ref 1003 Air-King "Minnie Mouse" circa 1972", Sotheby's, 2020-10-29]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1003-1002-lot-302-38 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 38 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 with Air-King dial", Antiquorum, 2016-11-13]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-3/oyster-perpetual-ref-1003-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Fine Watches Lot 42 — Rolex ref 1003 steel milled bezel circa 1975", Sotheby's, 2021-06-24]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Montres Lot 84 — Rolex ref 1003 caliber 1530, chronometer certificate 1960", Bonhams, 2024-09-19
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24234/lot/121/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 121 — Rolex ref 1003 9K gold, Glasgow import 1961", Bonhams, 2017-11-21]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Fine Watches and Wristwatches Lot 125 — Rolex ref 1003 9k gold circa 1960", Bonhams, 2007-12-06
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Knightsbridge Clocks, Watches & Barometers Lot 162 — Rolex ref 1003 9ct gold 1966", Bonhams, 2003-10-07
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Fine Watches Lot 406 — Rolex ref 1003 14k gold with Diesel Power service dial", Artcurial, 2011-07-26
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01]
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1003 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1005

2026-08-14T21:29:10Z

Admin: Recover real URL for verified Antiquorum auction citation

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1005 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 — Fluted Gold Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the early 1980s. The fluting is always cast in gold, over gold, pink gold, two-tone and steel cases alike. Pink gold is the strongest branch and champagne the signature dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1005, Oyster Perpetual, fluted bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, 18k pink gold, two-tone Rolesor, Gay Freres bracelet, 1005/1035, Coca-Cola service award
|image=Ref 1005 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 in 18K gold with a fluted gold bezel and pale champagne dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:03Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:49Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1005'''

The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, the dress end of a line whose other members wear a plain or milled surround. The case is the same 34mm three-body Oyster as the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the [[Reference:1007|1007]], with 19mm lugs, a screw-down back and Twinlock crown, an acrylic crystal and a chronometer-rated no-date automatic. The bezel is the whole difference, and it is always gold. Yellow on the gold watches, and on the steel and two-tone examples a gold fluted bezel over a steel case, because Rolex never cut the fluting into steel on this reference.

What that does to the reference's population is unusual for the family. The 1005 is the one 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual whose auction record is dominated by precious metal: 14k and 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, two-tone, and only occasionally a steel case wearing a gold bezel. It reads as a Datejust without the date, which is close to what it was for.

[[File:Ref 1005 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|18K gold 1005 with the gold fluted bezel and a pale champagne dial, London import mark for 1973]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1005
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the early 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; steel with a gold fluted bezel; steel and gold two-tone
|-
| bezel
| fluted, always cast in gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570; one lot catalogued as caliber 1550
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| gold and two-tone Oyster, riveted then folded; gold fold-over; leather with a signed buckle
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1005 with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel, and the 1005 takes the most formal one. Nothing behind the bezel changes: the case, the calibers, the crown, the crystal and the chronometer rating are shared with the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the engine-turned references. The fluting is what buyers were paying for, and it moved the watch out of the tool-watch tier and into the same visual register as the Datejust, which by the 1960s had made the fluted bezel a Rolex signature.

That positioning explains the case-material spread. Where the [[Reference:1002|1002]] is overwhelmingly steel, the 1005 turns up in 14k gold, 18k gold, 18k pink gold and two-tone far more often than in plain steel, and the gold bezel is present in every configuration. The 1005 also lends its number to other references in the family: gold cases across the group carry a 1005 stamp inside the caseback, which is why paired forms like 1002/1005 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text on watches whose engraved reference is something else entirely.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 sets the practical start at 1959, and the earliest documented 1005s follow within three years. Case number 826,301 is dated to 1962 by Sotheby's and to circa 1963 by Bonhams, which sold the same pink-gold watch a decade later. Case number 903,017 is catalogued circa 1962 and case number 926,416 circa 1963. Case number 1,050,796 sits at circa 1964, and case number 1,176,167 carries a caseback stamped II.65, the cleanest quarter-code anchor on the reference.

The middle of the run runs through case number 1,177,843 in about 1966, 1,586,108 in 1971 with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971, 1,801,509 in 1968, and 3,021,909 in about 1971. A London import mark for 1973 dates an 18K example whose case number is 3,367,203, and case number 3,921,444 is catalogued circa 1974.

The end is less firmly drawn than the beginning. Sotheby's catalogued a steel-cased example with a gold fluted bezel, case number 7,126,615, as circa 1995, a date the case number contradicts by more than a decade; a serial in that band belongs to the early 1980s, which is where the rest of the record puts the close of the reference. No production figure has been published.

==Movement notes==

Caliber 1560 powers the reference from the start of the run to about 1965: a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965, lifting the rate to 19,800 vph and the power reserve to around 48 hours on the same architecture, and hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972.

One lot sits outside that pair. Artcurial catalogued an 18K rose gold 1005 sold with its box and guarantee as carrying caliber 1550, the non-chronometer sibling of the 1560. The dial on that watch is described as chronometer-certified, which does not sit comfortably with a 1550, and no second example has surfaced to support the attribution. Treat it as a catalogue reading rather than a documented movement variant. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the caliber lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]]

Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts.

Gilt and gold-toned dials sit alongside champagne on the 14k and 18k gold cases, usually with dauphine hands on the early examples and baton hands later. Silvered dials appear across the run, and on the pink-gold watches the markers and hands are matched to the case: Artcurial's 1966 rose-gold example has applied rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands.

Two colour branches break the pattern. Gloss black is documented on 18K gold by Christie's, on a 1964 watch with luminous hands and sweep centre seconds, and again on a gold-and-steel example whose Artcurial condition report records the dial as refinished. That second entry is the useful one: black dials on this reference are worth a hard look, because a refinished black dial is a common way to make an ordinary champagne watch more interesting. White with black Roman numerals appears on the two-tone watches, alongside applied luminous-tipped gilt batons, on a configuration that reads much closer to a Datejust than the rest of the reference does.

Diamond-set markers turn up on gold examples, and Christie's sold a 1973 yellow-gold 1005 with a gold dial and diamond-set hour markers. Factory gem-setting on this reference is not documented in Rolex material, and aftermarket diamond dials on 34mm Oysters are common, so the setting on any given example is worth establishing before paying for it.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]]

The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record.

The bezel is cast in gold in every documented configuration. On gold watches it matches the case, yellow on yellow and pink on pink. On steel and two-tone watches the fluted bezel is gold over a steel case, which Sotheby's states directly on a steel Oyster with an 18k yellow gold fluted bezel, and Bonhams confirms on a two-tone example whose fluted gold bezel sits over a steel middle on a steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet. The published family survey makes the same point for the whole line, noting that fluted bezels in this group are always cast in gold, yellow on the gold watches and white on the steel ones. White-gold fluted bezels on steel 1005 cases are recorded in that survey rather than in any lot located here, so the yellow-over-steel combination is the one with photographic backing.

Two lots show what happens when the bezel and the reference disagree. Heritage catalogued an 18k gold 1005 with a smooth bezel, and Artcurial catalogued a 14k Coca-Cola award example whose bezel photographs as plain polished. Neither is a documented variant. Both are more likely a bezel swapped at service or a reference read from the caseback stamp rather than from the engraving between the lugs, and on this reference the caseback stamp is the least reliable of the two numbers, because gold cases across the whole family carry a 1005 mark.

Case material spans 14k yellow gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, steel with a gold bezel, and steel-and-gold two-tone. Gross weights give a sense of the difference: a 14k gold watch on a strap runs around 40 to 49 grams, an 18k rose gold one about 52 grams, and a two-tone watch on its bracelet about 71 grams.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]]

Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather.

Mixed-carat deliveries are documented rather than assumed: Bonhams sold a 14K gold 1005 fitted with an 18K gold bracelet in September 2024. One 18K watch, catalogued under the paired designation 1005/1035, wears an integrated textured-gold bracelet rather than an Oyster at all. A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===Pink and rose gold===
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]]

The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference.

===The two-tone 1005===
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]]

Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

The Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service programme, which is best documented on the [[Reference:1003|1003]], reached the 1005 as well. Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold example delivered to the American market, case number 3,921,444, circa 1974, with the caseback engraved "Th. Rummens 25 years service Coca-Cola" on the outside and "RWC LTD" for Rolex Watch Company Limited on the inside. Heritage catalogued a separate 14k example with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription on a silver dial. Between them the two lots show the award appearing as a caseback engraving on one watch and as dial printing on another, which matches the pattern across the family.

==Auction record==

Gold cases keep the 1005 in a higher band than its plain-bezel siblings, and results cluster in the low-to-mid four figures across yellow gold, two-tone and steel-with-gold-bezel examples. Pink gold is the exception and roughly doubles it. The strongest documented result is an 18k pink-gold watch with a champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet, which has now traded twice at major houses two years apart. Complete sets carry a premium here as elsewhere, and two of the reference's more interesting lots, the Coca-Cola award and an early yellow-gold example, both failed to sell on estimates that sat above where the market has been settling.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 940
| 18k pink gold, champagne dial, cal 1560, case 826,301, c.1963
| HKD 63,750
|-
| Nov 2022
| Christie's, Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, lot 256
| yellow gold, gold dial with diamond-set hour markers, c.1973
| CHF 7,560 (est. CHF 4,000–8,000)
|-
| Sep 2022
| Bonhams London, lot 70
| 18K gold, ref 1005/1035, cal 1570, integrated textured-gold bracelet
| GBP 7,012
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 58
| 14K gold head on an 18K gold bracelet, cal 1560, champagne dial
| GBP 4,864
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 33
| 14k yellow gold, gilt dial, cal 1560, case 903,017, c.1962
| EUR 4,723 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Feb 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 74
| 18K gold, London import mark for 1973, pale champagne dial, case 3,367,203
| GBP 4,480
|-
| May 2022
| Bonhams Paris, Montres de Prestige, lot 117
| steel and gold, white Roman-numeral dial, fluted gold bezel, case 3,021,909, c.1971
| EUR 2,805
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 32
| gold and steel, refinished black dial, caseback stamped 1005 and II.65, case 1,176,167
| EUR 2,624
|-
| Jul 2023
| Artcurial Monaco, Vente Horlogerie de collection, lot 286
| 14k yellow gold Coca-Cola award, caseback engraved for its recipient, case 3,921,444, c.1974
| not sold (est. EUR 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2024
| Christie's, Watches Online, lot 315
| yellow gold, champagne dial, case 926,416, c.1963
| not sold (est. CHF 3,000–5,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27738/lot/940/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 940 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1963", Bonhams, 2022-12-01]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 263 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1962", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Fine Watches Lot 119 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold with box and papers", Artcurial, 2016-01-18
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20941.256&LotNumber=256 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Geneva Edit Lot 256 — Rolex yellow gold and diamond-set ref 1005", Christie's, 2022-11-01]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=23040.315&LotNumber=315 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: Geneva Edit Lot 315 — Rolex yellow gold ref 1005 circa 1963", Christie's, 2024-05-07]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028338 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 23 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold with black dial", Christie's, 2016-11-14]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29150/lot/74/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 74 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold, London import 1973", Bonhams, 2024-02-21]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29153/lot/58/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 58 — Rolex ref 1005 14K gold on 18K bracelet", Bonhams, 2024-09-11]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Montres et montres-bracelets Lot 70 — Rolex ref 1005/1035 18K gold on integrated gold bracelet", Bonhams, 2022-09-14
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27810/lot/117/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Montres de Prestige Lot 117 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and gold, Roman-numeral dial", Bonhams, 2022-05-24]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Fine Timepieces Online Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 steel case with 18k gold fluted bezel", Sotheby's, 2018-03-02
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 33 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold circa 1962", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 32 — Rolex ref 1005 gold and steel, refinished black dial", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1005-oyster-perpetual-lot-313-140 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold 1968", Antiquorum, 2018-05-13]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-new-york-22/reference-1005-oyster-perpetual-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Weekly Lot 553 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and yellow gold circa 1971", Sotheby's, 2020-10-20]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25394/lot/65/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 65 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold", Bonhams, 2019-02-19]
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54187 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold catalogued with a smooth bezel", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1005/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1002

2026-08-14T21:29:10Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 2 verified Antiquorum auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1002 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 — Smooth Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1002 is the smooth-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1530 then 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the 1980s. Steel, 14k and 18k gold, 18k pink gold and British 9-carat cases, plus the Al-Sabah signed dial, Coca-Cola service awards and the American Heritage corporate dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1002, Oyster Perpetual, smooth bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, cal 1530, 34mm, 7205 rivet Oyster, 78350, Air-King 5500 case, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Al-Sabah dial
|image=Ref 1002 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 in steel with a smooth polished bezel, silvered dial and Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:51:57Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:42Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1002'''

The 1002 is the plain-bezel member of the 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual line and the reference the rest of the group is measured against. It shares its 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal and chronometer-rated automatic with the engine-turned [[Reference:1007|1007]] and the fluted [[Reference:1005|1005]]. What it does differently is nothing at all. The surround is a polished band with no milling and no flutes, and Rolex sold it that way from around 1959 into the 1980s, which makes it the longest-running and the most common of the four.

Its number does more work than its bezel. Rolex stamped 1002 inside the casebacks of steel cases across the family, the Air-King [[Reference:5500|5500]] included, so the mark turns up on watches whose dials and bezels have nothing to do with this reference. Houses have catalogued 1002-cased watches as Air-Kings, as Explorers, and once, on a caliber 620 pink-gold watch that cannot be a 1002 at all, as a Bubbleback. Reading a 1002 starts with understanding that the number identifies a case rather than a watch.

[[File:Ref 1002 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1002 with the plain polished bezel that defines the reference, silvered dial, caliber 1570, circa 1970]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1002
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; 9k gold for the British market, catalogued 1002/8; steel with a gold bezel
|-
| bezel
| smooth polished, fixed
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| 7205 rivet Oyster on 57 end links, 78350 folded Oyster on 557 end links, Jubilee; gold and two-tone equivalents
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold, with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| sibling references
| 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel. The 1002 takes the smooth polished surround. The 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008 take engine-turned bezels of varying patterns, and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the fluted bezel, which in this family is always cast in gold. Everything behind the bezel is common property: the 34mm three-body case, the drilled 19mm lugs, the Twinlock crown, the acrylic crystal, the chronometer-rated no-date automatic.

Two neighbours matter more than the siblings. The [[Reference:5500|5500]] Air-King is the same 34mm case fitted with a non-chronometer caliber and Air-King dial text, sold at a lower price; the case-middle tooling is shared, which is why 5500 casebacks from the late 1960s onward carry a 1002 stamp. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] is the 36mm version of the same idea, and its case is the one the Explorer [[Reference:1016|1016]] is built on. The 1002 sits at the volume end of that spread. It was the ordinary Rolex, the one bought as a first good watch and worn for thirty years, and the survival rate reflects it.

==Production outline==

Rolex published no production figure for the 1002 and no dated catalogue page fixes its introduction. Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959, which sets the practical start of the run, and the earliest documented case number sits right on it: 487,864, a pink-gold example Artcurial has catalogued twice, dating it circa 1966 in 2016 and circa 1976 in 2021. Neither date agrees with the serial, and the serial is the better guide.

The middle of the run is densely documented. Bonhams catalogued a caliber 1530 example bought on 3 September 1962 with its receipt, guarantee card and swing tag intact. Case number 1,047,802 is dated by Christie's to circa 1964 and case number 1,354,811 to circa 1966. Case number 1,678,569 came with a Bureaux Suisses chronometer certificate dated 9 February 1968, the tightest date anchor on the reference. Case numbers around 2,190,000 reach 1970, 2,818,213 carries a caseback stamped III.71 inside, and 2,981,934 is catalogued circa 1972.

The end of the run is where the sources part company. Case number 4,710,813 is catalogued circa 1976 and case number 5,218,806 as 1977 to 1978. Artcurial dated case number 8,024,591 to circa 1983. Sotheby's Hong Kong went further and catalogued an L-prefix example, case number L962520, as circa 1989, which would put it years after caliber 1570 left production and after every other account closes the reference. The L-serial watch is the outlier in the record and no second late example has surfaced to support it.

==Movement notes==

Three calibers appear in documented 1002s. Caliber 1530 turns up on the earliest examples: Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel 1530, movement number D675858, in a 1002 sold in September 1962, and a matching 1530 in a [[Reference:1003|1003]] carrying a chronometer certificate dated December 1960. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance does not list the 1002 against the 1530, giving it only to the 5500 family, so the two Bonhams lots stand against the published table rather than beside it.

Caliber 1560 is the movement of the reference's first decade, a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels beating at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. The earliest examples run the butterfly rotor. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 and lifts the rate to 19,800 vph with a power reserve near 48 hours; the architecture is otherwise unchanged. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972, which splits late 1002s from everything before. Chronometer certification is the reason the dial carries the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified line, and it is what separates the 1002 from the Air-King running on the same case. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] holds the full lineage.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black gloss dial with applied brushed gilt batons on an 18k gold 1002, circa 1968, on its 7205 gold rivet bracelet]]
[[File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands in a 34mm case catalogued as a 1002; unsold at Bonhams in 2020 and again in 2021]]

No 4-digit Oyster Perpetual carries as many documented dials as the 1002, which follows from the length of the run and the number of markets it was sold into. The pattern across the record is straightforward: steel cases take silvered, white, grey and blue dials, gold cases take champagne, gilt and gloss black, and the special dials are corporate, retailer or regional commissions rather than factory catalogue options.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! dial
! case
! documented example
|-
| sunburst silvered, gilt baton markers
| steel
| Bonhams March 2024 lot 27, caliber 1530, purchased September 1962
|-
| sunburst silvered, applied gilt batons
| steel
| Bonhams New York July 2021 lot 87, case 1,750,342, c.1967
|-
| sunburst grey, applied polished batons
| steel
| Bonhams London September 2019 lot 164, c.1964
|-
| silvered, applied hour markers
| steel
| Sotheby's New York June 2020 lot 213, case 1,678,569, c.1968
|-
| silvered "sigma", applied white-gold indexes
| steel
| Tajan Paris July 2020 lot 60, case 2,981,934, c.1972
|-
| blue
| steel
| Antiquorum New York April 2015 lot 213, case 2,668,283, made 1970
|-
| white, applied batons
| steel
| Sotheby's Hong Kong November 2020 lot 114, case L962520
|-
| white, painted Roman numerals
| steel
| Aguttes Paris November 2014 lot 146, case 7,459,438, c.1970; Artcurial Paris December 2014 lot 577, case 8,024,591, c.1983
|-
| black, 3-6-9 markers and Mercedes hands
| steel
| Bonhams London February 2021 lot 41, caseback stamped II.62
|-
| black gloss, applied brushed gilt batons
| 18k yellow gold
| Bonhams Paris November 2021 lot 27, case 2,044,863, c.1968
|-
| champagne
| 18k yellow gold
| Sotheby's Geneva June 2020 lot 262, retailed by Astrua, c.1969
|-
| gilt, applied baton indexes
| 18k pink gold
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo May 2021 lot 79, case 487,864
|-
| blue
| 14k yellow gold
| Antiquorum Hong Kong October 2019 lot 318, ref 1002/1005, c.1977–78
|-
| silvered, Arabic owner's signature
| steel
| Christie's Dubai October 2021 lot 62, c.1967
|-
| silvered, Coca-Cola 25 Years Service
| 14k yellow gold
| Christie's Dubai December 2019 lot 6, ref 1002/1005, c.1966
|}

Two entries deserve a caution. The black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands is an Explorer configuration in a 34mm case, and Bonhams offered the watch twice, in November 2020 and February 2021, without selling it either time; a genuine factory Explorer-dial 1002 has not been established, and one unsold lot is a lead rather than a variant. The Antiquorum sale of a loose so-called Zephyr dial catalogued for ref 1002/1008 shows the dial existed for this case group, but no complete Zephyr-dial 1002 has appeared at a major house.

Refinishing is the default assumption on anything unusual. Custom-coloured dials circulate on the whole 100x group, and a colour that appears on no other documented example is more likely a repaint than a discovery.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet]]

The case is a three-body Oyster in a tonneau profile, brushed and polished, 34mm across the bezel and around 12mm thick, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock screw-down crown and drilled 19mm lugs. Catalogue measurements wander: houses have given the same case as 33mm, 33.5mm, 34mm, 35mm and, in one Antiquorum lot, 35.5mm. The 34mm figure is the one that agrees with the bulk of the record and with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] that shares the tooling.

The bezel is a plain polished band, fixed, with no timing scale and no engine-turning. On gold and two-tone examples it is gold and slightly wider in appearance, and Gros Delettrez catalogued a steel 1002 with a gold bezel in 1966, so the two-tone configuration is documented despite the reference being usually described as steel-only. Case material otherwise spreads further than the group's reputation suggests: stainless steel is the volume production, 14k and 18k yellow gold are both common, 18k pink gold appears from 1959, and the British market took 9-carat cases that Bonhams catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8.

Two numbers identify the watch and they do not have to match. The reference engraved between the lugs names the bezel variant; the number stamped inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling. Across the documented lots, steel cases carry 1002 inside and gold cases carry 1005, which is why Sotheby's found a 1005 stamp inside a 14k gold watch it catalogued as a 1002 and why Rolex's own paired designations read 1002/1005, 1002/1008, 1003/1002 and 1005/1035. A Roman-quarter date code sits alongside the stamp and should agree with the serial band.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery through the 1960s was the 7205 rivet Oyster in 19mm with 57 end links and a signed folding clasp. From the late 1960s the folded-link 78350 on 557 end links takes over, and Christie's documented the changeover on one watch directly: a 1967 example that left the factory on a 7205, came to auction on a 78350 stamped 19, and carried a Rolex invoice dated 28 March 1989 recording the bracelet replacement and an overhaul. Jubilee bracelets are original on plenty of examples, in steel and in gold, and gold watches also went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and nothing else. Sixty years of servicing has separated most 1002 heads from what they left on, and a later clasp stamp under an earlier case is ordinary wear history. One Bonhams lot carries a caseback stamped II.62 under a clasp stamped 1 64, which is exactly the kind of small mismatch that is normal rather than suspicious. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Al-Sabah dial===
[[File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|thumb|right|300px|The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line]]

Christie's sold a steel 1002 in Dubai in October 2021 carrying the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed in black across the lower dial, under the applied markers and above the chronometer line. The watch dates to about 1967, runs caliber 1570 and came with product literature, its certificate of guarantee, the COSC certificate for its original movement, the presentation box, a hang tag and the 1989 Rolex service invoice. It is the strongest 1002 result located and the clearest documented example of the Gulf-market personalised dials that Rolex supplied through the 1960s. Antiquorum sold a second Arabic-dial steel 1002, case number 1,678,614, in Hong Kong in 2017.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

Coca-Cola gave gold Oyster Perpetuals to employees marking twenty-five years of service, and the programme ran across the whole 100x group rather than one reference. On the 1002 the configuration is a 14k yellow gold case under the paired designation 1002/1005, a silvered dial printed with the Coca-Cola script and the 25 Years Service line, and a caseback engraved with the recipient's name. Christie's Dubai sold one in December 2019 engraved "L. Penasse, April 21, 1966" with its guarantee, a bulletin de marche dated 30 June 1966 and its box; Sotheby's Geneva had sold the same watch, case number 1,354,811, five years earlier. The [[Reference:1003|1003]] and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] carry their own versions of the same award.

===American Heritage===

Christie's catalogued a steel 1002, case number 2,818,213, circa 1971, with a silvered brushed dial carrying an American Heritage logo and a "$3000" designation, the caseback stamped III.71 inside. The dollar figure is a sales-award threshold rather than a price, and the watch is the clearest documented corporate-award 1002 outside the Coca-Cola group.

===Retailer signatures===

Astrua, the Turin retailer, signed a champagne-dial 18k gold 1002 that Sotheby's sold in Geneva in June 2020 with its Rolex guarantee and COSC certificate. Retailer-signed 100x dials are more often found on the gold [[Reference:1007|1007]], where Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino examples are documented, and the 1002's retailer branch is thinner than its production volume would suggest.

===Air-King dials in 1002 cases===
[[File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|thumb|right|250px|An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976]]

Bonhams catalogued a 1976 steel watch as "Model: Air-King, Reference: 1002", silvered dial, Jubilee bracelet, and sold it for more than most chronometer-dial 1002s of the same year. These are Air-King watches in the shared case rather than 1002s with the wrong dial, and the [[Reference:5500|5500]] entry covers the case-sharing in full. The practical consequence for a buyer is that a 1002 stamp inside a caseback proves nothing about what is on the dial.

==Auction record==

The 1002 trades in the low thousands as a rule, often without reserve and usually in general watch sales rather than dedicated vintage Rolex auctions. Condition and completeness move the number more than metal does: a steel example with its box, guarantee and chronometer certificate beats a bare gold one often enough to be a pattern. Above that band sit the dials that carry a story. The Al-Sabah watch, the Coca-Cola awards and the gold blue-dial examples reach five figures, and the two strongest results on record are both dials rather than cases.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Oct 2021
| Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 62
| steel, silver dial signed by Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah, cal 1570, c.1967
| USD 17,500 (est. USD 10,000–15,000)
|-
| Oct 2019
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 318
| 14k yellow gold, blue dial, ref 1002/1005, case 5,218,806, c.1977–78
| HKD 68,750 (est. HKD 45,000–65,000)
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 939
| 9k yellow gold, ref 1002/8, case 1,124,624, c.1965
| HKD 51,000
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's New York, Fine Watches, lot 137
| 14k yellow gold, silvered dial, gold Jubilee, case 736,275, c.1961
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 5,000–7,000)
|-
| Nov 2021
| Bonhams Paris, lot 27
| 18k gold, black gloss dial, 7205 gold rivet bracelet, case 2,044,863, c.1968
| EUR 6,375
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's Hong Kong, Fine Watches, lot 8044
| steel, silvered dial, cal 1570, case 2,190,998, c.1970
| HKD 27,720 (est. HKD 20,000–40,000)
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Watches, lot 2013
| steel, Air-King dial, Jubilee bracelet, case 4,710,813, c.1976
| USD 3,328
|-
| May 2021
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 79
| 18k pink gold, gilt dial, cal 1560 butterfly rotor, case 487,864
| EUR 3,900 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Mar 2024
| Bonhams, Watches Online, lot 27
| steel, cal 1530, sunburst silvered dial, full set, purchased September 1962
| USD 2,816
|-
| Jul 2021
| Bonhams New York, Watches Online, lot 87
| steel, sunburst silvered dial, cal 1570, case 1,750,342, c.1967
| USD 1,785
|-
| Feb 2021
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 41
| steel, black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands, caseback II.62
| not sold (est. EUR 4,000–6,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20177.62&LotNumber=62 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Dubai Edit Lot 62 — Rolex ref 1002 with the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah", Christie's, 2021-10-27]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993056 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 266 — Rolex ref 1002 made for American Heritage", Christie's, 2016-05-16]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 127 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola", Sotheby's, 2014-11-11
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-2/reference-1002-oyster-perpetual-a-yellow Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Fine Watches Lot 137 — Rolex ref 1002 yellow gold circa 1961", Sotheby's, 2021-03-19]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Fine Watches Lot 8044 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1970", Sotheby's, 2021-03-04]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online-3/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-automatic Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Important Watches Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1968", Sotheby's, 2020-06-24]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-geneva-5/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1002-retailed-by-astrua Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 262 — Rolex ref 1002 retailed by Astrua", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-hong-kong-26/rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1002-a-stainless Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Watches Weekly Lot 114 — Rolex ref 1002 steel white dial", Sotheby's, 2020-11-18]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1002-1005-oyster-perpetual-superlative-chronometer-officially-certified-lot-323-318 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 318 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1002-1008-lot-323-293 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Lot 293 — Rolex "Zephir" dial for ref 1002/1008", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1002-lot-306-86 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 86 — Rolex ref 1002 Arabic dial", Antiquorum, 2017-03-18]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1002-lot-290-213 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2015-04-15]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 939 — Rolex ref 1002/8 9k yellow gold circa 1965", Bonhams, 2022-12-01
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27376/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Bijoux, Montres & Maroquinerie Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold black gloss dial", Bonhams, 2021-11-25]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29501/lot/2013/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Watches Lot 2013 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Air-King, circa 1976", Bonhams, 2024-09-13]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26682/lot/41/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 41 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Explorer", Bonhams, 2021-02-23]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25397/lot/164/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 164 — Rolex ref 1002 sunburst grey dial", Bonhams, 2019-09-19]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 79 — Rolex ref 1002 pink gold", Artcurial, 2021-05-20
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Jewellery & Watches Lot 133 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold, case 487864", Artcurial, 2016-04-12
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Fine Watches Lot 577 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial circa 1983", Artcurial, 2014-12-10
* Tajan, "Tajan Paris Watches Lot 60 — Rolex ref 1002 sigma dial circa 1972", Tajan, 2020-07-22
* Gros Delettrez, "Gros Delettrez Paris Montres & Horlogerie Lot 13 — Rolex ref 1002 steel with gold bezel", Gros Delettrez, 2015-11-13
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26924/lot/87/ Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Watches Online Lot 87 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1967", Bonhams, 2021-07-28]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6146224 Christie's, "Christie's Hong Kong Important Watches and Private Collections Lot 2204 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1964", Christie's, 2018-05-28]
* Aguttes, "Aguttes Paris Horlogerie Lot 146 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial", Aguttes, 2014-11-07
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1002/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1002 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1002

2026-08-14T21:26:58Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 2 verified Antiquorum auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1002 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 — Smooth Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1002 is the smooth-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1530 then 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the 1980s. Steel, 14k and 18k gold, 18k pink gold and British 9-carat cases, plus the Al-Sabah signed dial, Coca-Cola service awards and the American Heritage corporate dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1002, Oyster Perpetual, smooth bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, cal 1530, 34mm, 7205 rivet Oyster, 78350, Air-King 5500 case, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Al-Sabah dial
|image=Ref 1002 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 in steel with a smooth polished bezel, silvered dial and Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:51:57Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:42Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1002'''

The 1002 is the plain-bezel member of the 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual line and the reference the rest of the group is measured against. It shares its 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal and chronometer-rated automatic with the engine-turned [[Reference:1007|1007]] and the fluted [[Reference:1005|1005]]. What it does differently is nothing at all. The surround is a polished band with no milling and no flutes, and Rolex sold it that way from around 1959 into the 1980s, which makes it the longest-running and the most common of the four.

Its number does more work than its bezel. Rolex stamped 1002 inside the casebacks of steel cases across the family, the Air-King [[Reference:5500|5500]] included, so the mark turns up on watches whose dials and bezels have nothing to do with this reference. Houses have catalogued 1002-cased watches as Air-Kings, as Explorers, and once, on a caliber 620 pink-gold watch that cannot be a 1002 at all, as a Bubbleback. Reading a 1002 starts with understanding that the number identifies a case rather than a watch.

[[File:Ref 1002 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1002 with the plain polished bezel that defines the reference, silvered dial, caliber 1570, circa 1970]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1002
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; 9k gold for the British market, catalogued 1002/8; steel with a gold bezel
|-
| bezel
| smooth polished, fixed
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| 7205 rivet Oyster on 57 end links, 78350 folded Oyster on 557 end links, Jubilee; gold and two-tone equivalents
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold, with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| sibling references
| 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel. The 1002 takes the smooth polished surround. The 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008 take engine-turned bezels of varying patterns, and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the fluted bezel, which in this family is always cast in gold. Everything behind the bezel is common property: the 34mm three-body case, the drilled 19mm lugs, the Twinlock crown, the acrylic crystal, the chronometer-rated no-date automatic.

Two neighbours matter more than the siblings. The [[Reference:5500|5500]] Air-King is the same 34mm case fitted with a non-chronometer caliber and Air-King dial text, sold at a lower price; the case-middle tooling is shared, which is why 5500 casebacks from the late 1960s onward carry a 1002 stamp. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] is the 36mm version of the same idea, and its case is the one the Explorer [[Reference:1016|1016]] is built on. The 1002 sits at the volume end of that spread. It was the ordinary Rolex, the one bought as a first good watch and worn for thirty years, and the survival rate reflects it.

==Production outline==

Rolex published no production figure for the 1002 and no dated catalogue page fixes its introduction. Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959, which sets the practical start of the run, and the earliest documented case number sits right on it: 487,864, a pink-gold example Artcurial has catalogued twice, dating it circa 1966 in 2016 and circa 1976 in 2021. Neither date agrees with the serial, and the serial is the better guide.

The middle of the run is densely documented. Bonhams catalogued a caliber 1530 example bought on 3 September 1962 with its receipt, guarantee card and swing tag intact. Case number 1,047,802 is dated by Christie's to circa 1964 and case number 1,354,811 to circa 1966. Case number 1,678,569 came with a Bureaux Suisses chronometer certificate dated 9 February 1968, the tightest date anchor on the reference. Case numbers around 2,190,000 reach 1970, 2,818,213 carries a caseback stamped III.71 inside, and 2,981,934 is catalogued circa 1972.

The end of the run is where the sources part company. Case number 4,710,813 is catalogued circa 1976 and case number 5,218,806 as 1977 to 1978. Artcurial dated case number 8,024,591 to circa 1983. Sotheby's Hong Kong went further and catalogued an L-prefix example, case number L962520, as circa 1989, which would put it years after caliber 1570 left production and after every other account closes the reference. The L-serial watch is the outlier in the record and no second late example has surfaced to support it.

==Movement notes==

Three calibers appear in documented 1002s. Caliber 1530 turns up on the earliest examples: Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel 1530, movement number D675858, in a 1002 sold in September 1962, and a matching 1530 in a [[Reference:1003|1003]] carrying a chronometer certificate dated December 1960. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance does not list the 1002 against the 1530, giving it only to the 5500 family, so the two Bonhams lots stand against the published table rather than beside it.

Caliber 1560 is the movement of the reference's first decade, a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels beating at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. The earliest examples run the butterfly rotor. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 and lifts the rate to 19,800 vph with a power reserve near 48 hours; the architecture is otherwise unchanged. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972, which splits late 1002s from everything before. Chronometer certification is the reason the dial carries the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified line, and it is what separates the 1002 from the Air-King running on the same case. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] holds the full lineage.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black gloss dial with applied brushed gilt batons on an 18k gold 1002, circa 1968, on its 7205 gold rivet bracelet]]
[[File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands in a 34mm case catalogued as a 1002; unsold at Bonhams in 2020 and again in 2021]]

No 4-digit Oyster Perpetual carries as many documented dials as the 1002, which follows from the length of the run and the number of markets it was sold into. The pattern across the record is straightforward: steel cases take silvered, white, grey and blue dials, gold cases take champagne, gilt and gloss black, and the special dials are corporate, retailer or regional commissions rather than factory catalogue options.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! dial
! case
! documented example
|-
| sunburst silvered, gilt baton markers
| steel
| Bonhams March 2024 lot 27, caliber 1530, purchased September 1962
|-
| sunburst silvered, applied gilt batons
| steel
| Bonhams New York July 2021 lot 87, case 1,750,342, c.1967
|-
| sunburst grey, applied polished batons
| steel
| Bonhams London September 2019 lot 164, c.1964
|-
| silvered, applied hour markers
| steel
| Sotheby's New York June 2020 lot 213, case 1,678,569, c.1968
|-
| silvered "sigma", applied white-gold indexes
| steel
| Tajan Paris July 2020 lot 60, case 2,981,934, c.1972
|-
| blue
| steel
| Antiquorum New York April 2015 lot 213, case 2,668,283, made 1970
|-
| white, applied batons
| steel
| Sotheby's Hong Kong November 2020 lot 114, case L962520
|-
| white, painted Roman numerals
| steel
| Aguttes Paris November 2014 lot 146, case 7,459,438, c.1970; Artcurial Paris December 2014 lot 577, case 8,024,591, c.1983
|-
| black, 3-6-9 markers and Mercedes hands
| steel
| Bonhams London February 2021 lot 41, caseback stamped II.62
|-
| black gloss, applied brushed gilt batons
| 18k yellow gold
| Bonhams Paris November 2021 lot 27, case 2,044,863, c.1968
|-
| champagne
| 18k yellow gold
| Sotheby's Geneva June 2020 lot 262, retailed by Astrua, c.1969
|-
| gilt, applied baton indexes
| 18k pink gold
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo May 2021 lot 79, case 487,864
|-
| blue
| 14k yellow gold
| Antiquorum Hong Kong October 2019 lot 318, ref 1002/1005, c.1977–78
|-
| silvered, Arabic owner's signature
| steel
| Christie's Dubai October 2021 lot 62, c.1967
|-
| silvered, Coca-Cola 25 Years Service
| 14k yellow gold
| Christie's Dubai December 2019 lot 6, ref 1002/1005, c.1966
|}

Two entries deserve a caution. The black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands is an Explorer configuration in a 34mm case, and Bonhams offered the watch twice, in November 2020 and February 2021, without selling it either time; a genuine factory Explorer-dial 1002 has not been established, and one unsold lot is a lead rather than a variant. The Antiquorum sale of a loose so-called Zephyr dial catalogued for ref 1002/1008 shows the dial existed for this case group, but no complete Zephyr-dial 1002 has appeared at a major house.

Refinishing is the default assumption on anything unusual. Custom-coloured dials circulate on the whole 100x group, and a colour that appears on no other documented example is more likely a repaint than a discovery.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet]]

The case is a three-body Oyster in a tonneau profile, brushed and polished, 34mm across the bezel and around 12mm thick, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock screw-down crown and drilled 19mm lugs. Catalogue measurements wander: houses have given the same case as 33mm, 33.5mm, 34mm, 35mm and, in one Antiquorum lot, 35.5mm. The 34mm figure is the one that agrees with the bulk of the record and with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] that shares the tooling.

The bezel is a plain polished band, fixed, with no timing scale and no engine-turning. On gold and two-tone examples it is gold and slightly wider in appearance, and Gros Delettrez catalogued a steel 1002 with a gold bezel in 1966, so the two-tone configuration is documented despite the reference being usually described as steel-only. Case material otherwise spreads further than the group's reputation suggests: stainless steel is the volume production, 14k and 18k yellow gold are both common, 18k pink gold appears from 1959, and the British market took 9-carat cases that Bonhams catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8.

Two numbers identify the watch and they do not have to match. The reference engraved between the lugs names the bezel variant; the number stamped inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling. Across the documented lots, steel cases carry 1002 inside and gold cases carry 1005, which is why Sotheby's found a 1005 stamp inside a 14k gold watch it catalogued as a 1002 and why Rolex's own paired designations read 1002/1005, 1002/1008, 1003/1002 and 1005/1035. A Roman-quarter date code sits alongside the stamp and should agree with the serial band.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery through the 1960s was the 7205 rivet Oyster in 19mm with 57 end links and a signed folding clasp. From the late 1960s the folded-link 78350 on 557 end links takes over, and Christie's documented the changeover on one watch directly: a 1967 example that left the factory on a 7205, came to auction on a 78350 stamped 19, and carried a Rolex invoice dated 28 March 1989 recording the bracelet replacement and an overhaul. Jubilee bracelets are original on plenty of examples, in steel and in gold, and gold watches also went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and nothing else. Sixty years of servicing has separated most 1002 heads from what they left on, and a later clasp stamp under an earlier case is ordinary wear history. One Bonhams lot carries a caseback stamped II.62 under a clasp stamped 1 64, which is exactly the kind of small mismatch that is normal rather than suspicious. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Al-Sabah dial===
[[File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|thumb|right|300px|The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line]]

Christie's sold a steel 1002 in Dubai in October 2021 carrying the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed in black across the lower dial, under the applied markers and above the chronometer line. The watch dates to about 1967, runs caliber 1570 and came with product literature, its certificate of guarantee, the COSC certificate for its original movement, the presentation box, a hang tag and the 1989 Rolex service invoice. It is the strongest 1002 result located and the clearest documented example of the Gulf-market personalised dials that Rolex supplied through the 1960s. Antiquorum sold a second Arabic-dial steel 1002, case number 1,678,614, in Hong Kong in 2017.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

Coca-Cola gave gold Oyster Perpetuals to employees marking twenty-five years of service, and the programme ran across the whole 100x group rather than one reference. On the 1002 the configuration is a 14k yellow gold case under the paired designation 1002/1005, a silvered dial printed with the Coca-Cola script and the 25 Years Service line, and a caseback engraved with the recipient's name. Christie's Dubai sold one in December 2019 engraved "L. Penasse, April 21, 1966" with its guarantee, a bulletin de marche dated 30 June 1966 and its box; Sotheby's Geneva had sold the same watch, case number 1,354,811, five years earlier. The [[Reference:1003|1003]] and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] carry their own versions of the same award.

===American Heritage===

Christie's catalogued a steel 1002, case number 2,818,213, circa 1971, with a silvered brushed dial carrying an American Heritage logo and a "$3000" designation, the caseback stamped III.71 inside. The dollar figure is a sales-award threshold rather than a price, and the watch is the clearest documented corporate-award 1002 outside the Coca-Cola group.

===Retailer signatures===

Astrua, the Turin retailer, signed a champagne-dial 18k gold 1002 that Sotheby's sold in Geneva in June 2020 with its Rolex guarantee and COSC certificate. Retailer-signed 100x dials are more often found on the gold [[Reference:1007|1007]], where Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino examples are documented, and the 1002's retailer branch is thinner than its production volume would suggest.

===Air-King dials in 1002 cases===
[[File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|thumb|right|250px|An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976]]

Bonhams catalogued a 1976 steel watch as "Model: Air-King, Reference: 1002", silvered dial, Jubilee bracelet, and sold it for more than most chronometer-dial 1002s of the same year. These are Air-King watches in the shared case rather than 1002s with the wrong dial, and the [[Reference:5500|5500]] entry covers the case-sharing in full. The practical consequence for a buyer is that a 1002 stamp inside a caseback proves nothing about what is on the dial.

==Auction record==

The 1002 trades in the low thousands as a rule, often without reserve and usually in general watch sales rather than dedicated vintage Rolex auctions. Condition and completeness move the number more than metal does: a steel example with its box, guarantee and chronometer certificate beats a bare gold one often enough to be a pattern. Above that band sit the dials that carry a story. The Al-Sabah watch, the Coca-Cola awards and the gold blue-dial examples reach five figures, and the two strongest results on record are both dials rather than cases.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Oct 2021
| Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 62
| steel, silver dial signed by Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah, cal 1570, c.1967
| USD 17,500 (est. USD 10,000–15,000)
|-
| Oct 2019
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 318
| 14k yellow gold, blue dial, ref 1002/1005, case 5,218,806, c.1977–78
| HKD 68,750 (est. HKD 45,000–65,000)
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 939
| 9k yellow gold, ref 1002/8, case 1,124,624, c.1965
| HKD 51,000
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's New York, Fine Watches, lot 137
| 14k yellow gold, silvered dial, gold Jubilee, case 736,275, c.1961
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 5,000–7,000)
|-
| Nov 2021
| Bonhams Paris, lot 27
| 18k gold, black gloss dial, 7205 gold rivet bracelet, case 2,044,863, c.1968
| EUR 6,375
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's Hong Kong, Fine Watches, lot 8044
| steel, silvered dial, cal 1570, case 2,190,998, c.1970
| HKD 27,720 (est. HKD 20,000–40,000)
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Watches, lot 2013
| steel, Air-King dial, Jubilee bracelet, case 4,710,813, c.1976
| USD 3,328
|-
| May 2021
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 79
| 18k pink gold, gilt dial, cal 1560 butterfly rotor, case 487,864
| EUR 3,900 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Mar 2024
| Bonhams, Watches Online, lot 27
| steel, cal 1530, sunburst silvered dial, full set, purchased September 1962
| USD 2,816
|-
| Jul 2021
| Bonhams New York, Watches Online, lot 87
| steel, sunburst silvered dial, cal 1570, case 1,750,342, c.1967
| USD 1,785
|-
| Feb 2021
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 41
| steel, black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands, caseback II.62
| not sold (est. EUR 4,000–6,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20177.62&LotNumber=62 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Dubai Edit Lot 62 — Rolex ref 1002 with the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah", Christie's, 2021-10-27]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993056 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 266 — Rolex ref 1002 made for American Heritage", Christie's, 2016-05-16]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 127 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola", Sotheby's, 2014-11-11
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-2/reference-1002-oyster-perpetual-a-yellow Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Fine Watches Lot 137 — Rolex ref 1002 yellow gold circa 1961", Sotheby's, 2021-03-19]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Fine Watches Lot 8044 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1970", Sotheby's, 2021-03-04]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online-3/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-automatic Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Important Watches Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1968", Sotheby's, 2020-06-24]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-geneva-5/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1002-retailed-by-astrua Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 262 — Rolex ref 1002 retailed by Astrua", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-hong-kong-26/rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1002-a-stainless Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Watches Weekly Lot 114 — Rolex ref 1002 steel white dial", Sotheby's, 2020-11-18]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1002-1005-oyster-perpetual-superlative-chronometer-officially-certified-lot-323-318 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 318 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27]
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-ref-1002-1008-lot-323-293 Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Lot 293 — Rolex "Zephir" dial for ref 1002/1008", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27]
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 86 — Rolex ref 1002 Arabic dial", Antiquorum, 2017-03-18
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2015-04-15
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 939 — Rolex ref 1002/8 9k yellow gold circa 1965", Bonhams, 2022-12-01
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27376/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Bijoux, Montres & Maroquinerie Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold black gloss dial", Bonhams, 2021-11-25]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29501/lot/2013/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Watches Lot 2013 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Air-King, circa 1976", Bonhams, 2024-09-13]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26682/lot/41/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 41 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Explorer", Bonhams, 2021-02-23]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25397/lot/164/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 164 — Rolex ref 1002 sunburst grey dial", Bonhams, 2019-09-19]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 79 — Rolex ref 1002 pink gold", Artcurial, 2021-05-20
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Jewellery & Watches Lot 133 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold, case 487864", Artcurial, 2016-04-12
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Fine Watches Lot 577 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial circa 1983", Artcurial, 2014-12-10
* Tajan, "Tajan Paris Watches Lot 60 — Rolex ref 1002 sigma dial circa 1972", Tajan, 2020-07-22
* Gros Delettrez, "Gros Delettrez Paris Montres & Horlogerie Lot 13 — Rolex ref 1002 steel with gold bezel", Gros Delettrez, 2015-11-13
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26924/lot/87/ Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Watches Online Lot 87 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1967", Bonhams, 2021-07-28]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6146224 Christie's, "Christie's Hong Kong Important Watches and Private Collections Lot 2204 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1964", Christie's, 2018-05-28]
* Aguttes, "Aguttes Paris Horlogerie Lot 146 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial", Aguttes, 2014-11-07
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1002/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1002 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1005

2026-08-14T15:02:31Z

Admin: Recover real URL for verified Christie's auction citation

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1005 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 — Fluted Gold Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the early 1980s. The fluting is always cast in gold, over gold, pink gold, two-tone and steel cases alike. Pink gold is the strongest branch and champagne the signature dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1005, Oyster Perpetual, fluted bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, 18k pink gold, two-tone Rolesor, Gay Freres bracelet, 1005/1035, Coca-Cola service award
|image=Ref 1005 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 in 18K gold with a fluted gold bezel and pale champagne dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:03Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:49Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1005'''

The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, the dress end of a line whose other members wear a plain or milled surround. The case is the same 34mm three-body Oyster as the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the [[Reference:1007|1007]], with 19mm lugs, a screw-down back and Twinlock crown, an acrylic crystal and a chronometer-rated no-date automatic. The bezel is the whole difference, and it is always gold. Yellow on the gold watches, and on the steel and two-tone examples a gold fluted bezel over a steel case, because Rolex never cut the fluting into steel on this reference.

What that does to the reference's population is unusual for the family. The 1005 is the one 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual whose auction record is dominated by precious metal: 14k and 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, two-tone, and only occasionally a steel case wearing a gold bezel. It reads as a Datejust without the date, which is close to what it was for.

[[File:Ref 1005 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|18K gold 1005 with the gold fluted bezel and a pale champagne dial, London import mark for 1973]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1005
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the early 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; steel with a gold fluted bezel; steel and gold two-tone
|-
| bezel
| fluted, always cast in gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570; one lot catalogued as caliber 1550
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| gold and two-tone Oyster, riveted then folded; gold fold-over; leather with a signed buckle
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1005 with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel, and the 1005 takes the most formal one. Nothing behind the bezel changes: the case, the calibers, the crown, the crystal and the chronometer rating are shared with the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the engine-turned references. The fluting is what buyers were paying for, and it moved the watch out of the tool-watch tier and into the same visual register as the Datejust, which by the 1960s had made the fluted bezel a Rolex signature.

That positioning explains the case-material spread. Where the [[Reference:1002|1002]] is overwhelmingly steel, the 1005 turns up in 14k gold, 18k gold, 18k pink gold and two-tone far more often than in plain steel, and the gold bezel is present in every configuration. The 1005 also lends its number to other references in the family: gold cases across the group carry a 1005 stamp inside the caseback, which is why paired forms like 1002/1005 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text on watches whose engraved reference is something else entirely.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 sets the practical start at 1959, and the earliest documented 1005s follow within three years. Case number 826,301 is dated to 1962 by Sotheby's and to circa 1963 by Bonhams, which sold the same pink-gold watch a decade later. Case number 903,017 is catalogued circa 1962 and case number 926,416 circa 1963. Case number 1,050,796 sits at circa 1964, and case number 1,176,167 carries a caseback stamped II.65, the cleanest quarter-code anchor on the reference.

The middle of the run runs through case number 1,177,843 in about 1966, 1,586,108 in 1971 with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971, 1,801,509 in 1968, and 3,021,909 in about 1971. A London import mark for 1973 dates an 18K example whose case number is 3,367,203, and case number 3,921,444 is catalogued circa 1974.

The end is less firmly drawn than the beginning. Sotheby's catalogued a steel-cased example with a gold fluted bezel, case number 7,126,615, as circa 1995, a date the case number contradicts by more than a decade; a serial in that band belongs to the early 1980s, which is where the rest of the record puts the close of the reference. No production figure has been published.

==Movement notes==

Caliber 1560 powers the reference from the start of the run to about 1965: a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965, lifting the rate to 19,800 vph and the power reserve to around 48 hours on the same architecture, and hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972.

One lot sits outside that pair. Artcurial catalogued an 18K rose gold 1005 sold with its box and guarantee as carrying caliber 1550, the non-chronometer sibling of the 1560. The dial on that watch is described as chronometer-certified, which does not sit comfortably with a 1550, and no second example has surfaced to support the attribution. Treat it as a catalogue reading rather than a documented movement variant. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the caliber lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]]

Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts.

Gilt and gold-toned dials sit alongside champagne on the 14k and 18k gold cases, usually with dauphine hands on the early examples and baton hands later. Silvered dials appear across the run, and on the pink-gold watches the markers and hands are matched to the case: Artcurial's 1966 rose-gold example has applied rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands.

Two colour branches break the pattern. Gloss black is documented on 18K gold by Christie's, on a 1964 watch with luminous hands and sweep centre seconds, and again on a gold-and-steel example whose Artcurial condition report records the dial as refinished. That second entry is the useful one: black dials on this reference are worth a hard look, because a refinished black dial is a common way to make an ordinary champagne watch more interesting. White with black Roman numerals appears on the two-tone watches, alongside applied luminous-tipped gilt batons, on a configuration that reads much closer to a Datejust than the rest of the reference does.

Diamond-set markers turn up on gold examples, and Christie's sold a 1973 yellow-gold 1005 with a gold dial and diamond-set hour markers. Factory gem-setting on this reference is not documented in Rolex material, and aftermarket diamond dials on 34mm Oysters are common, so the setting on any given example is worth establishing before paying for it.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]]

The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record.

The bezel is cast in gold in every documented configuration. On gold watches it matches the case, yellow on yellow and pink on pink. On steel and two-tone watches the fluted bezel is gold over a steel case, which Sotheby's states directly on a steel Oyster with an 18k yellow gold fluted bezel, and Bonhams confirms on a two-tone example whose fluted gold bezel sits over a steel middle on a steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet. The published family survey makes the same point for the whole line, noting that fluted bezels in this group are always cast in gold, yellow on the gold watches and white on the steel ones. White-gold fluted bezels on steel 1005 cases are recorded in that survey rather than in any lot located here, so the yellow-over-steel combination is the one with photographic backing.

Two lots show what happens when the bezel and the reference disagree. Heritage catalogued an 18k gold 1005 with a smooth bezel, and Artcurial catalogued a 14k Coca-Cola award example whose bezel photographs as plain polished. Neither is a documented variant. Both are more likely a bezel swapped at service or a reference read from the caseback stamp rather than from the engraving between the lugs, and on this reference the caseback stamp is the least reliable of the two numbers, because gold cases across the whole family carry a 1005 mark.

Case material spans 14k yellow gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, steel with a gold bezel, and steel-and-gold two-tone. Gross weights give a sense of the difference: a 14k gold watch on a strap runs around 40 to 49 grams, an 18k rose gold one about 52 grams, and a two-tone watch on its bracelet about 71 grams.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]]

Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather.

Mixed-carat deliveries are documented rather than assumed: Bonhams sold a 14K gold 1005 fitted with an 18K gold bracelet in September 2024. One 18K watch, catalogued under the paired designation 1005/1035, wears an integrated textured-gold bracelet rather than an Oyster at all. A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===Pink and rose gold===
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]]

The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference.

===The two-tone 1005===
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]]

Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

The Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service programme, which is best documented on the [[Reference:1003|1003]], reached the 1005 as well. Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold example delivered to the American market, case number 3,921,444, circa 1974, with the caseback engraved "Th. Rummens 25 years service Coca-Cola" on the outside and "RWC LTD" for Rolex Watch Company Limited on the inside. Heritage catalogued a separate 14k example with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription on a silver dial. Between them the two lots show the award appearing as a caseback engraving on one watch and as dial printing on another, which matches the pattern across the family.

==Auction record==

Gold cases keep the 1005 in a higher band than its plain-bezel siblings, and results cluster in the low-to-mid four figures across yellow gold, two-tone and steel-with-gold-bezel examples. Pink gold is the exception and roughly doubles it. The strongest documented result is an 18k pink-gold watch with a champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet, which has now traded twice at major houses two years apart. Complete sets carry a premium here as elsewhere, and two of the reference's more interesting lots, the Coca-Cola award and an early yellow-gold example, both failed to sell on estimates that sat above where the market has been settling.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 940
| 18k pink gold, champagne dial, cal 1560, case 826,301, c.1963
| HKD 63,750
|-
| Nov 2022
| Christie's, Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, lot 256
| yellow gold, gold dial with diamond-set hour markers, c.1973
| CHF 7,560 (est. CHF 4,000–8,000)
|-
| Sep 2022
| Bonhams London, lot 70
| 18K gold, ref 1005/1035, cal 1570, integrated textured-gold bracelet
| GBP 7,012
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 58
| 14K gold head on an 18K gold bracelet, cal 1560, champagne dial
| GBP 4,864
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 33
| 14k yellow gold, gilt dial, cal 1560, case 903,017, c.1962
| EUR 4,723 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Feb 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 74
| 18K gold, London import mark for 1973, pale champagne dial, case 3,367,203
| GBP 4,480
|-
| May 2022
| Bonhams Paris, Montres de Prestige, lot 117
| steel and gold, white Roman-numeral dial, fluted gold bezel, case 3,021,909, c.1971
| EUR 2,805
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 32
| gold and steel, refinished black dial, caseback stamped 1005 and II.65, case 1,176,167
| EUR 2,624
|-
| Jul 2023
| Artcurial Monaco, Vente Horlogerie de collection, lot 286
| 14k yellow gold Coca-Cola award, caseback engraved for its recipient, case 3,921,444, c.1974
| not sold (est. EUR 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2024
| Christie's, Watches Online, lot 315
| yellow gold, champagne dial, case 926,416, c.1963
| not sold (est. CHF 3,000–5,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27738/lot/940/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 940 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1963", Bonhams, 2022-12-01]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 263 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1962", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Fine Watches Lot 119 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold with box and papers", Artcurial, 2016-01-18
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20941.256&LotNumber=256 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Geneva Edit Lot 256 — Rolex yellow gold and diamond-set ref 1005", Christie's, 2022-11-01]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=23040.315&LotNumber=315 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: Geneva Edit Lot 315 — Rolex yellow gold ref 1005 circa 1963", Christie's, 2024-05-07]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028338 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 23 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold with black dial", Christie's, 2016-11-14]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29150/lot/74/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 74 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold, London import 1973", Bonhams, 2024-02-21]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29153/lot/58/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 58 — Rolex ref 1005 14K gold on 18K bracelet", Bonhams, 2024-09-11]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Montres et montres-bracelets Lot 70 — Rolex ref 1005/1035 18K gold on integrated gold bracelet", Bonhams, 2022-09-14
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27810/lot/117/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Montres de Prestige Lot 117 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and gold, Roman-numeral dial", Bonhams, 2022-05-24]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Fine Timepieces Online Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 steel case with 18k gold fluted bezel", Sotheby's, 2018-03-02
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 33 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold circa 1962", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 32 — Rolex ref 1005 gold and steel, refinished black dial", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold 1968", Antiquorum, 2018-05-13
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-new-york-22/reference-1005-oyster-perpetual-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Weekly Lot 553 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and yellow gold circa 1971", Sotheby's, 2020-10-20]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25394/lot/65/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 65 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold", Bonhams, 2019-02-19]
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54187 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold catalogued with a smooth bezel", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1005/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1005

2026-08-14T14:10:04Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 2 verified Christie's auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1005 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 — Fluted Gold Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the early 1980s. The fluting is always cast in gold, over gold, pink gold, two-tone and steel cases alike. Pink gold is the strongest branch and champagne the signature dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1005, Oyster Perpetual, fluted bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, 18k pink gold, two-tone Rolesor, Gay Freres bracelet, 1005/1035, Coca-Cola service award
|image=Ref 1005 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 in 18K gold with a fluted gold bezel and pale champagne dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:03Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:49Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1005'''

The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, the dress end of a line whose other members wear a plain or milled surround. The case is the same 34mm three-body Oyster as the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the [[Reference:1007|1007]], with 19mm lugs, a screw-down back and Twinlock crown, an acrylic crystal and a chronometer-rated no-date automatic. The bezel is the whole difference, and it is always gold. Yellow on the gold watches, and on the steel and two-tone examples a gold fluted bezel over a steel case, because Rolex never cut the fluting into steel on this reference.

What that does to the reference's population is unusual for the family. The 1005 is the one 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual whose auction record is dominated by precious metal: 14k and 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, two-tone, and only occasionally a steel case wearing a gold bezel. It reads as a Datejust without the date, which is close to what it was for.

[[File:Ref 1005 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|18K gold 1005 with the gold fluted bezel and a pale champagne dial, London import mark for 1973]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1005
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the early 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; steel with a gold fluted bezel; steel and gold two-tone
|-
| bezel
| fluted, always cast in gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570; one lot catalogued as caliber 1550
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| gold and two-tone Oyster, riveted then folded; gold fold-over; leather with a signed buckle
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1005 with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel, and the 1005 takes the most formal one. Nothing behind the bezel changes: the case, the calibers, the crown, the crystal and the chronometer rating are shared with the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the engine-turned references. The fluting is what buyers were paying for, and it moved the watch out of the tool-watch tier and into the same visual register as the Datejust, which by the 1960s had made the fluted bezel a Rolex signature.

That positioning explains the case-material spread. Where the [[Reference:1002|1002]] is overwhelmingly steel, the 1005 turns up in 14k gold, 18k gold, 18k pink gold and two-tone far more often than in plain steel, and the gold bezel is present in every configuration. The 1005 also lends its number to other references in the family: gold cases across the group carry a 1005 stamp inside the caseback, which is why paired forms like 1002/1005 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text on watches whose engraved reference is something else entirely.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 sets the practical start at 1959, and the earliest documented 1005s follow within three years. Case number 826,301 is dated to 1962 by Sotheby's and to circa 1963 by Bonhams, which sold the same pink-gold watch a decade later. Case number 903,017 is catalogued circa 1962 and case number 926,416 circa 1963. Case number 1,050,796 sits at circa 1964, and case number 1,176,167 carries a caseback stamped II.65, the cleanest quarter-code anchor on the reference.

The middle of the run runs through case number 1,177,843 in about 1966, 1,586,108 in 1971 with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971, 1,801,509 in 1968, and 3,021,909 in about 1971. A London import mark for 1973 dates an 18K example whose case number is 3,367,203, and case number 3,921,444 is catalogued circa 1974.

The end is less firmly drawn than the beginning. Sotheby's catalogued a steel-cased example with a gold fluted bezel, case number 7,126,615, as circa 1995, a date the case number contradicts by more than a decade; a serial in that band belongs to the early 1980s, which is where the rest of the record puts the close of the reference. No production figure has been published.

==Movement notes==

Caliber 1560 powers the reference from the start of the run to about 1965: a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965, lifting the rate to 19,800 vph and the power reserve to around 48 hours on the same architecture, and hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972.

One lot sits outside that pair. Artcurial catalogued an 18K rose gold 1005 sold with its box and guarantee as carrying caliber 1550, the non-chronometer sibling of the 1560. The dial on that watch is described as chronometer-certified, which does not sit comfortably with a 1550, and no second example has surfaced to support the attribution. Treat it as a catalogue reading rather than a documented movement variant. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the caliber lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]]

Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts.

Gilt and gold-toned dials sit alongside champagne on the 14k and 18k gold cases, usually with dauphine hands on the early examples and baton hands later. Silvered dials appear across the run, and on the pink-gold watches the markers and hands are matched to the case: Artcurial's 1966 rose-gold example has applied rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands.

Two colour branches break the pattern. Gloss black is documented on 18K gold by Christie's, on a 1964 watch with luminous hands and sweep centre seconds, and again on a gold-and-steel example whose Artcurial condition report records the dial as refinished. That second entry is the useful one: black dials on this reference are worth a hard look, because a refinished black dial is a common way to make an ordinary champagne watch more interesting. White with black Roman numerals appears on the two-tone watches, alongside applied luminous-tipped gilt batons, on a configuration that reads much closer to a Datejust than the rest of the reference does.

Diamond-set markers turn up on gold examples, and Christie's sold a 1973 yellow-gold 1005 with a gold dial and diamond-set hour markers. Factory gem-setting on this reference is not documented in Rolex material, and aftermarket diamond dials on 34mm Oysters are common, so the setting on any given example is worth establishing before paying for it.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]]

The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record.

The bezel is cast in gold in every documented configuration. On gold watches it matches the case, yellow on yellow and pink on pink. On steel and two-tone watches the fluted bezel is gold over a steel case, which Sotheby's states directly on a steel Oyster with an 18k yellow gold fluted bezel, and Bonhams confirms on a two-tone example whose fluted gold bezel sits over a steel middle on a steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet. The published family survey makes the same point for the whole line, noting that fluted bezels in this group are always cast in gold, yellow on the gold watches and white on the steel ones. White-gold fluted bezels on steel 1005 cases are recorded in that survey rather than in any lot located here, so the yellow-over-steel combination is the one with photographic backing.

Two lots show what happens when the bezel and the reference disagree. Heritage catalogued an 18k gold 1005 with a smooth bezel, and Artcurial catalogued a 14k Coca-Cola award example whose bezel photographs as plain polished. Neither is a documented variant. Both are more likely a bezel swapped at service or a reference read from the caseback stamp rather than from the engraving between the lugs, and on this reference the caseback stamp is the least reliable of the two numbers, because gold cases across the whole family carry a 1005 mark.

Case material spans 14k yellow gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, steel with a gold bezel, and steel-and-gold two-tone. Gross weights give a sense of the difference: a 14k gold watch on a strap runs around 40 to 49 grams, an 18k rose gold one about 52 grams, and a two-tone watch on its bracelet about 71 grams.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]]

Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather.

Mixed-carat deliveries are documented rather than assumed: Bonhams sold a 14K gold 1005 fitted with an 18K gold bracelet in September 2024. One 18K watch, catalogued under the paired designation 1005/1035, wears an integrated textured-gold bracelet rather than an Oyster at all. A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===Pink and rose gold===
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]]

The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference.

===The two-tone 1005===
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]]

Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

The Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service programme, which is best documented on the [[Reference:1003|1003]], reached the 1005 as well. Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold example delivered to the American market, case number 3,921,444, circa 1974, with the caseback engraved "Th. Rummens 25 years service Coca-Cola" on the outside and "RWC LTD" for Rolex Watch Company Limited on the inside. Heritage catalogued a separate 14k example with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription on a silver dial. Between them the two lots show the award appearing as a caseback engraving on one watch and as dial printing on another, which matches the pattern across the family.

==Auction record==

Gold cases keep the 1005 in a higher band than its plain-bezel siblings, and results cluster in the low-to-mid four figures across yellow gold, two-tone and steel-with-gold-bezel examples. Pink gold is the exception and roughly doubles it. The strongest documented result is an 18k pink-gold watch with a champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet, which has now traded twice at major houses two years apart. Complete sets carry a premium here as elsewhere, and two of the reference's more interesting lots, the Coca-Cola award and an early yellow-gold example, both failed to sell on estimates that sat above where the market has been settling.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 940
| 18k pink gold, champagne dial, cal 1560, case 826,301, c.1963
| HKD 63,750
|-
| Nov 2022
| Christie's, Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, lot 256
| yellow gold, gold dial with diamond-set hour markers, c.1973
| CHF 7,560 (est. CHF 4,000–8,000)
|-
| Sep 2022
| Bonhams London, lot 70
| 18K gold, ref 1005/1035, cal 1570, integrated textured-gold bracelet
| GBP 7,012
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 58
| 14K gold head on an 18K gold bracelet, cal 1560, champagne dial
| GBP 4,864
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 33
| 14k yellow gold, gilt dial, cal 1560, case 903,017, c.1962
| EUR 4,723 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Feb 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 74
| 18K gold, London import mark for 1973, pale champagne dial, case 3,367,203
| GBP 4,480
|-
| May 2022
| Bonhams Paris, Montres de Prestige, lot 117
| steel and gold, white Roman-numeral dial, fluted gold bezel, case 3,021,909, c.1971
| EUR 2,805
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 32
| gold and steel, refinished black dial, caseback stamped 1005 and II.65, case 1,176,167
| EUR 2,624
|-
| Jul 2023
| Artcurial Monaco, Vente Horlogerie de collection, lot 286
| 14k yellow gold Coca-Cola award, caseback engraved for its recipient, case 3,921,444, c.1974
| not sold (est. EUR 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2024
| Christie's, Watches Online, lot 315
| yellow gold, champagne dial, case 926,416, c.1963
| not sold (est. CHF 3,000–5,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27738/lot/940/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 940 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1963", Bonhams, 2022-12-01]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 263 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1962", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Fine Watches Lot 119 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold with box and papers", Artcurial, 2016-01-18
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20941.256&LotNumber=256 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Geneva Edit Lot 256 — Rolex yellow gold and diamond-set ref 1005", Christie's, 2022-11-01]
* Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: Geneva Edit Lot 315 — Rolex yellow gold ref 1005 circa 1963", Christie's, 2024-05-07
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6028338 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 23 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold with black dial", Christie's, 2016-11-14]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29150/lot/74/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 74 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold, London import 1973", Bonhams, 2024-02-21]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29153/lot/58/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 58 — Rolex ref 1005 14K gold on 18K bracelet", Bonhams, 2024-09-11]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Montres et montres-bracelets Lot 70 — Rolex ref 1005/1035 18K gold on integrated gold bracelet", Bonhams, 2022-09-14
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27810/lot/117/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Montres de Prestige Lot 117 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and gold, Roman-numeral dial", Bonhams, 2022-05-24]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Fine Timepieces Online Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 steel case with 18k gold fluted bezel", Sotheby's, 2018-03-02
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 33 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold circa 1962", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 32 — Rolex ref 1005 gold and steel, refinished black dial", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold 1968", Antiquorum, 2018-05-13
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-new-york-22/reference-1005-oyster-perpetual-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Weekly Lot 553 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and yellow gold circa 1971", Sotheby's, 2020-10-20]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25394/lot/65/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 65 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold", Bonhams, 2019-02-19]
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54187 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold catalogued with a smooth bezel", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1005/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1003

2026-08-14T14:08:40Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 3 verified Sotheby's and Bonhams auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1003 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 — Engine-Turned Bezel & Coca-Cola Dials | BezelBase
|description=The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the late 1970s, in steel, 14k and 18k gold and British 9-carat cases. Its auction record is dominated by Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service dials, and the strongest steel result is the Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse' Air-King.
|keywords=Rolex 1003, Oyster Perpetual, engine-turned bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Minnie Mouse Air-King, 9K gold Glasgow import, 1003/1005
|image=Ref 1003 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 in steel with an engine-turned bezel and a spotted cream dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:00Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:46Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1003'''

The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, and the one the catalogues struggle to describe. Rolex's own term for the bezel is engine-turned; Sotheby's has called it milled, Bonhams has called it milled and ridged in the same decade, and Antiquorum, on the examples that matter most, calls it a graduated engine-turned bezel with hour divisions. Underneath the argument is the same watch as the smooth [[Reference:1002|1002]]: 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal, chronometer-rated no-date automatic, caliber 1560 and then caliber 1570.

Its documented population splits along an unusual line. Steel 1003s are ordinary and trade like ordinary vintage Rolex. The gold ones are mostly not catalogue watches at all: they are twenty-five-year service awards, and Coca-Cola commissioned enough of them that the reference's auction record is dominated by a single corporate gift programme. The best 1003 result on file is a Coca-Cola dial that went for roughly five times its high estimate.

[[File:Ref 1003 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1003, circa 1975, with the engine-turned bezel and a heavily spotted cream dial]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1003
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the late 1970s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 9k and 9ct gold for the British market
|-
| bezel
| engine-turned, graduated with hour divisions on documented gold examples
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| rivet Oyster, later folded Oyster, gold fold-over bracelets, leather
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1003/1002 and 1003/1005
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Four reference numbers in this family carry engine-turned bezels, and the published literature does not draw a clean line between the 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008. What separates them in practice is the number engraved between the lugs, not a feature anyone can call from a photograph. The 1003 is the most frequently catalogued of the four and the one that turns up in gold most often.

Against the rest of the group the position is straightforward. The [[Reference:1002|1002]] is the same watch with a plain surround and sold in far greater numbers; the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the gold fluted bezel; the [[Reference:1007|1007]] is the closest sibling of all and the one with the widest documented dial spread. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] scales the same design up to 36mm on 20mm lugs. The 1003 belongs to a middle tier of the line: dressier than the plain 1002, less formal than the fluted 1005, and available in steel or gold at either end of the range.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959 and gives the practical start of the run. The earliest documented 1003s sit right on it: case number 512,833, catalogued circa 1960, and case number 573,835, whose chronometer certificate is dated 22 December 1960. A Glasgow import mark for 1961 dates a 9K gold example, and a 9ct gold watch with its original 1966 receipt dates itself.

The run continues through case number 531,734 in 1966, 1,197,501 in 1964, 3,044,042 in 1972, 3,960,865 around 1975 and 5,426,177 in 1977. The Antiquorum lot that closes the record describes a watch produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, which is the latest documented delivery. That places the reference's end alongside the rest of the 4-digit no-date group rather than with the [[Reference:1002|1002]], which carried on into the 1980s.

No production figure has been published, and the shape of the surviving population is uneven: steel examples appear regularly in general watch sales, while gold examples concentrate in the service-award group.

==Movement notes==

Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel caliber 1530, movement number 98643, in a 1003 accompanied by a chronometer certificate dated December 1960; the same house recorded a 1530 in a [[Reference:1002|1002]] bought in 1962. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance lists the 1530 only against the 5500 family and gives the 1003 to calibers 1560 and 1570, so the earliest movement in this reference is documented by catalogue text rather than by the published table.

Caliber 1560 runs from the start to about 1965. It is a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with an overcoil hairspring, a shock-protected free-sprung balance and Microstella regulating screws; the earliest examples carry the butterfly rotor, which Bonhams noted explicitly on a 1960 gold watch. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 at 19,800 vph, and Antiquorum's description of a 1972 example records the oeil-de-perdrix decoration and the self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964]]

Silvered is the default and covers most of the record: sunburst and satiné finishes on steel and gold alike, with applied baton or dart markers, luminous five-minute dots and a printed chronometer line. A cream or beige tone appears on aged gold examples, and Artcurial's 1966 gold watch is described as patinated cream. Sotheby's 2021 steel example photographs as a heavily spotted cream dial with rose-toned markers, the kind of tropical change that reads as condition rather than as a factory variant.

Beyond the silvered default the record splits three ways. The corporate service dials are the largest branch and are covered below. Air-King dials turn up in 1003 cases, in silver and in blue, which follows from the case-middle sharing with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] and is why Antiquorum catalogued one steel watch as ref 1003/1002 with an Air-King dial. British-market gold examples carry silvered dials with applied gilt dart markers and Arabic numerals at the quarters, a configuration Bonhams documented on both the 1961 Glasgow watch and the 1960 New York one.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1003 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|9K gold British-market 1003 with a Glasgow import mark for 1961, silvered dial with gilt dart markers and Arabic quarters]]

The case is the shared 34mm three-body Oyster, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal. Antiquorum's two most detailed lots give the case as 34mm across and 12mm thick, which is the measurement to trust; house figures elsewhere range from 33mm to 35mm on the same case.

The bezel is the reference's identity and the thing catalogue text handles worst. Antiquorum's descriptions are the most useful, because they specify what the milling does: an engine-turned bezel with hour divisions, described on one lot as graduated. That is a bezel whose cut segments are indexed to the hours rather than a continuous decorative knurl, and it is the detail that separates a 1003 from a generic milled surround. Bonhams has called the same bezel milled, and Artcurial described a 1966 example as semi engine-turned, which suggests the pattern was not uniform across the run.

Case material spreads wider than the steel-and-gold summary implies. Stainless steel is the volume production and 14k and 18k yellow gold both appear. The British market took 9-carat cases, and Bonhams has catalogued 1003s described as 9K and as 9ct gold in three separate sales, one of them hallmarked with a Glasgow import mark for 1961. As on the rest of the family, the reference between the lugs names the bezel and the stamp inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling, which is why the paired forms 1003/1002 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery follows the family pattern: riveted Oyster bracelets through the 1960s, folded links afterwards. Antiquorum's 1964 Air-King-dial example came on a steel riveted Rolex bracelet, which is period-correct for the case number. Gold watches went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle, and one British 9ct example is documented on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet with a locking clasp. Later examples come to auction on leather more often than on their original metal, and several catalogued 1003s carry associated straps and buckles rather than factory fitments.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Coca-Cola service awards===
[[File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|thumb|right|250px|The 25 Years of Service Coca-Cola dial on a yellow gold ref 1003/1005, circa 1977]]

Coca-Cola marked twenty-five years of employee service with a gold Oyster Perpetual, and the 1003 is the reference the programme used most visibly. The configuration is consistent: a gold case under the paired designation 1003/1005 or 1003/1002, a satiné or matte silver dial carrying the Coca-Cola script logo and a 25 Years Service dedication, applied gold baton indexes with tritium dots, and gold baton hands. Antiquorum sold an 18k example from the Mondani collection in 2006, case number 5,426,177, made in 1977; Sotheby's Geneva sold the same watch in 2014. A second, case number 3,044,042, made in 1972, passed through Antiquorum in 2007. A third, produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, came up in New York in 2004.

The programme was not confined to this reference. Christie's Dubai and Sotheby's Geneva both catalogued a 14k gold [[Reference:1002|1002]] on the same award, Artcurial sold a 14k [[Reference:1005|1005]] with the caseback engraved for its recipient, and Heritage catalogued a 14k 1005 with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription. What distinguishes the 1003 group is the strength of the results, which sit an order of magnitude above ordinary examples of the reference.

===The Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse'===
[[File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|thumb|right|250px|The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text]]

Sotheby's sold a steel watch in New York in October 2020 catalogued as "Reference 1003 Air-King 'Minnie Mouse'". The dial is silvered, carries Air-King and PRECISION text, and has a printed Minnie Mouse figure standing between the centre and six o'clock. Case number 3,011,703 dates it to about 1972; the inner caseback is stamped 1002 and the movement is caliber 1570. Character dials were made for the Air-King line rather than for the chronometer references, so what the lot documents is a character-dial Air-King in a 1003-engraved case rather than a factory 1003 variant. It is the strongest steel result on the reference, above its high estimate.

===The Diesel Power Company dial===

Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold 1003 in Monte-Carlo in July 2011, case number 531,734, circa 1966, with a patinated cream dial carrying a Diesel Power Company service logo. The configuration parallels the Coca-Cola awards without belonging to them, and it establishes that Rolex supplied service dials on this reference to more than one corporate client.

===British-market gold cases===

Bonhams has catalogued three 1003s in 9-carat gold, a case material Rolex used for the British market where import duty made 18-carat cases expensive. One carries a Glasgow import mark for 1961 with caliber 1560; another, case number 512,833, is a 1960 New York lot with the butterfly rotor; a third is a 1966 watch on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet, sold with its original receipt. Hallmarks on these cases date the import rather than the movement, and the assay office letter is the practical dating tool where the case number has worn away.

==Auction record==

Steel 1003s trade in the low four figures, and the gold ones split sharply by dial. An unmarked gold 1003 sits in the same band as a good steel example; a Coca-Cola service dial multiplies it. Sotheby's Geneva sold one for roughly five times its high estimate in 2014, and the same watch had made a strong result at Antiquorum eight years earlier from the Mondani collection, so the premium is not a one-sale accident. The Minnie Mouse Air-King is the strongest steel result and reflects the character-dial market rather than the reference.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| May 2014
| Sotheby's Geneva, Important Watches, lot 216
| yellow gold, "25 Years of Service Coca-Cola" dial, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, c.1977
| CHF 37,500 (est. CHF 6,000–8,000)
|-
| Oct 2007
| Antiquorum Geneva, Important Collectors' Watches, lot 486
| yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 3,044,042, made 1972
| CHF 12,980 (est. CHF 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2006
| Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection, lot 111
| 18k yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, made 1977
| CHF 11,800 (est. CHF 8,000–10,000)
|-
| Oct 2020
| Sotheby's New York, Watches, lot 97
| steel Air-King 'Minnie Mouse', cal 1570, case 3,011,703, c.1972
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 4,000–6,000)
|-
| Jul 2011
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Fine Watches, lot 406
| 14k yellow gold, Diesel Power Company service dial, case 531,734, c.1966
| EUR 4,335 (est. EUR 3,000–3,500)
|-
| Jun 2021
| Sotheby's Geneva, Fine Watches, lot 42
| steel, spotted cream dial, cal 1570, case 3,960,865, c.1975
| CHF 2,142 (est. CHF 1,000–3,000)
|-
| Nov 2017
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 121
| 9K gold, Glasgow import mark for 1961, cal 1560, silvered dial with Arabic quarters
| GBP 2,000
|-
| Nov 2016
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 38
| steel with Air-King dial, ref 1003/1002, case 1,197,501, made 1964, rivet bracelet
| CHF 1,875 (est. CHF 1,000–2,000)
|-
| Dec 2007
| Bonhams New York, Fine Watches and Wristwatches, lot 125
| 9k gold, cal 1560 with butterfly rotor, case 512,833, c.1960
| USD 1,440
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Montres, lot 84
| steel, cal 1530, case 573,835, chronometer certificate dated December 1960
| GBP 960
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 216 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years of Service", Sotheby's, 2014-05-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva The Mondani Collection Lot 111 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Collectors' Watches Lot 486 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 1972", Antiquorum, 2007-10-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Collector's Wristwatches Lot 118 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2004-03-24
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-5/rolex-reference-1003-air-king-minnie-mouse-a Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Lot 97 — Rolex ref 1003 Air-King "Minnie Mouse" circa 1972", Sotheby's, 2020-10-29]
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 38 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 with Air-King dial", Antiquorum, 2016-11-13
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-3/oyster-perpetual-ref-1003-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Fine Watches Lot 42 — Rolex ref 1003 steel milled bezel circa 1975", Sotheby's, 2021-06-24]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Montres Lot 84 — Rolex ref 1003 caliber 1530, chronometer certificate 1960", Bonhams, 2024-09-19
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/24234/lot/121/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 121 — Rolex ref 1003 9K gold, Glasgow import 1961", Bonhams, 2017-11-21]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Fine Watches and Wristwatches Lot 125 — Rolex ref 1003 9k gold circa 1960", Bonhams, 2007-12-06
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Knightsbridge Clocks, Watches & Barometers Lot 162 — Rolex ref 1003 9ct gold 1966", Bonhams, 2003-10-07
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Fine Watches Lot 406 — Rolex ref 1003 14k gold with Diesel Power service dial", Artcurial, 2011-07-26
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01]
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1003 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Main Page

2026-08-14T05:30:03Z

Admin: Refresh featured watch (weekly rotation) + recently-updated (from RecentChanges)

__NOTOC__
<div style="display:none;">{{DISPLAYTITLE:BezelBase}}</div>
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Reference Encyclopedia {{!}} BezelBase
|description=Encyclopedic reference for Rolex watches. Vintage and discontinued Rolex references documented — specs, dial variants, serial ranges, production history.
|keywords=watch reference, Rolex, Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, Rolex Explorer, Rolex GMT-Master, Rolex Day-Date, President, Rolex Bubbleback, Rolex Prince, Brancard, Oyster, Ovettone, vintage Rolex, collector guide, watch history, production history, dial variants
|image=Bezelbase_main_poster.webp
|image_alt=BezelBase — vintage Rolex reference encyclopedia
|image_width=1280
|image_height=1280
|og_type=website
}}

<div style="max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1em;">

<div style="margin: 0.5em 0 1.5em 0;">
Rolex changed what a wristwatch could do. The Oyster case (1926) made watches waterproof, the Perpetual rotor (1931) made them self-winding, the Prince (1928) built them to chronometer grade. Watchmakers and collectors have spent the decades since cataloguing what changed across each reference. BezelBase tries to store this information in a single place.

Each article documents one Rolex reference: production years, movement, dial variants, case and bracelet details, auction record, and the things to check when authenticating one. Coverage spans the main Rolex lines so the history reads as one connected archive.

Inside one reference, the watch can change a lot. A 5512 from 1962 is not the 5512 from 1978. A pointed-crown-guard 1675 is not the late matte 1675. Generation matters first. [[BezelBase:About|About →]]
</div>


== From the archive: Submariner 5513 ==

<div style="display:flex; gap:18px; padding:16px; margin:0 0 2em 0; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555;">
<div style="flex:0 0 240px; align-self:flex-start;">
[[File:Ref 5513 hero.webp|frameless|240px|link=Reference:5513]]
</div>
<div style="flex:1; min-width:0;">
The [[Reference:5513|5513]] ran for 27 continuous years, the longest of any Submariner. A no-date diver that started gilt and glossy in 1962 and ended matte and modern in 1989, it carries more meaningful dial, bezel, and hand variants than any other reference in the family. Generation matters here more than almost anywhere in vintage Rolex.

'''[[Reference:5513|Read the full 5513 article →]]'''
</div>
</div>



== Recently updated ==
* '''14 August 2026''' — [[Reference:1005|1005]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1003|1003]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1002|1002]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:6429|6429]] (Explorer)
* '''13 August 2026''' — [[Reference:1802|1802]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:118209|118209]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:118139|118139]] (Day-Date)
* '''11 August 2026''' — [[Reference:2136|2136]] (Oyster) · [[Reference:6075|6075]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6031|6031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5031|5031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5030|5030]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:114200|114200]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:1007|1007]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:5504|5504]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:14000|14000]] (Air-King)
* '''10 August 2026''' — [[Reference:6262|6262]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:116515LN|116515LN]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:19018|19018]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:1018|1018]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:6298|6298]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:5506|5506]] (Air-King)


== Submariner ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-five-digit 1953–90
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6204|6204]] · [[Reference:6205|6205]] · [[Reference:6200|6200]] · [[Reference:6536|6536]] · [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] · [[Reference:6538|6538]] · [[Reference:5508|5508]] · [[Reference:5510|5510]] · [[Reference:5512|5512]] · [[Reference:5513|5513]] · [[Reference:5514|5514]] · [[Reference:5517|5517]] · [[Reference:1680|1680]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Five-digit 1979–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14060|14060]] · [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] · [[Reference:16800|16800]] · [[Reference:16610|16610]] · [[Reference:16610LV|16610LV]] · [[Reference:16803|16803]] · [[Reference:16808|16808]] · [[Reference:16613|16613]] · [[Reference:16618|16618]]
|}

'''[[Reference:submariner|→ Full Submariner index]]'''

== Daytona ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Manual-wind chronograph 1962–1988
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6238|6238]] · [[Reference:6239|6239]] · [[Reference:6240|6240]] · [[Reference:6241|6241]] · [[Reference:6262|6262]] · [[Reference:6263|6263]] · [[Reference:6264|6264]] · [[Reference:6265|6265]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Zenith automatic 1988–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16520|16520]] · [[Reference:16518|16518]] · [[Reference:16519|16519]] · [[Reference:16523|16523]] · [[Reference:16528|16528]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | In-house cal 4130 2000–2016
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116520|116520]] · [[Reference:116523|116523]] · [[Reference:116528|116528]]
|}

'''[[Reference:daytona|→ Full Daytona index]]'''

== Explorer ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1952–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6150|6150]] · [[Reference:6350|6350]] · [[Reference:6610|6610]] · [[Reference:1016|1016]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 1989–2021
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14270|14270]] · [[Reference:114270|114270]] · [[Reference:214270|214270]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer|→ Full Explorer index]]'''

== Explorer II ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage Freccione 1971–1984
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1655|1655]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Transitional 1985–1989
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16550|16550]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 40mm 1989–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16570|16570]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer-ii|→ Full Explorer II index]]'''

== GMT-Master ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1955–99
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6542|6542]] · [[Reference:1675|1675]] · [[Reference:16750|16750]] · [[Reference:16753|16753]] · [[Reference:16758|16758]] · [[Reference:16700|16700]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | GMT-Master II 1983–2007
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16760|16760]] · [[Reference:16710|16710]] · [[Reference:16713|16713]] · [[Reference:16718|16718]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 5-digit 2005–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116718LN|116718LN]] · [[Reference:116713LN|116713LN]] · [[Reference:116710LN|116710LN]] · [[Reference:116710BLNR|116710BLNR]] · [[Reference:116719BLRO|116719BLRO]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 6-digit 2018–present
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:126710BLRO|126710BLRO]] · [[Reference:126711CHNR|126711CHNR]] · [[Reference:126715CHNR|126715CHNR]] · [[Reference:126710BLNR|126710BLNR]] · [[Reference:126720VTNR|126720VTNR]] · [[Reference:126713GRNR|126713GRNR]] · [[Reference:126718GRNR|126718GRNR]] · [[Reference:126710GRNR|126710GRNR]]
|}

'''[[Reference:gmt-master|→ Full GMT-Master index]]'''

== Oyster & Bubbleback ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-Oyster & Oyster 1922–37
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:3666|3666]] · [[Reference:2136|2136]] · [[Reference:3003|3003]] · [[Reference:3004|3004]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Bubbleback era 1933–45
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1858|1858]] · [[Reference:3131|3131]] · [[Reference:3372|3372]] · [[Reference:3525|3525]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Datejust / Padellone / Super Oyster 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4467|4467]] · [[Reference:5030|5030]] · [[Reference:5031|5031]] · [[Reference:6031|6031]] · [[Reference:6075|6075]] · [[Reference:6105|6105]] · [[Reference:8171|8171]] · [[Reference:6098|6098]]
|}

'''[[Reference:bubbleback|→ Full Bubbleback index]]'''

== Day-Date ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Originals 1956–59
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6510|6510]] · [[Reference:6511|6511]] · [[Reference:6611|6611]] · [[Reference:6612|6612]] · [[Reference:6612B|6612B]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 4-digit President 1959–78
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1803|1803]] · [[Reference:1804|1804]] · [[Reference:1806|1806]] · [[Reference:1807|1807]] · [[Reference:1811|1811]] · [[Reference:1831|1831]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 5-digit 1977–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:18038|18038]] · [[Reference:18028|18028]] · [[Reference:18048|18048]] · [[Reference:18078|18078]] · [[Reference:18238|18238]] · [[Reference:18248|18248]] · [[Reference:18348|18348]] · [[Reference:18208|18208]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 6-digit Day-Date 36 2000–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:118238|118238]] · [[Reference:118208|118208]] · [[Reference:118235|118235]] · [[Reference:118138|118138]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Day-Date II 41mm 2008–15
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:218238|218238]] · [[Reference:218206|218206]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Oysterquartz 1977–2001
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:19018|19018]]
|}

'''[[Reference:day-date|→ Full Day-Date index]]'''

== Air-King ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Battle of Britain origin 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4925|4925]] · [[Reference:4365|4365]] · [[Reference:4499|4499]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | First automatic 1953–57
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6552|6552]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Long-run mainstay 1957–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:5500|5500]] · [[Reference:5501|5501]] · [[Reference:5502|5502]] · [[Reference:5504|5504]] · [[Reference:5506|5506]] · [[Reference:5520|5520]] · [[Reference:5700|5700]] · [[Reference:5701|5701]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Sapphire era 1989–2014
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14000|14000]] · [[Reference:14000M|14000M]] · [[Reference:114200|114200]]
|}

'''[[Reference:air-king|→ Full Air-King index]]'''

== Prince ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Brancard era 1928–mid-1940s
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1343|1343]] · [[Reference:971|971]] · [[Reference:1490|1490]] · [[Reference:1491|1491]] · [[Reference:1527|1527]] · [[Reference:1862|1862]] · [[Reference:3361|3361]] · [[Reference:3937|3937]]
|}

'''[[Reference:prince|→ Full Prince index]]'''

== Reference guides ==

Three pages cover material that applies across every Rolex line documented here. '''[[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelets]]''' catalogs bracelet refs, end links, clasps, and link types alongside the clasp date-code key. '''[[Reference:Movements|Movements]]''' lists every caliber spanning the manual-wind chronograph, Zenith-driven, and in-house generations. '''[[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]]''' decodes the three Rolex serial systems — numeric pre-1987, letter 1987–2010, and random alphanumeric 2010+.

</div>

[[Category:BezelBase]]

Reference:1005

2026-08-14T04:04:14Z

Admin: Recover real URL for verified Sotheby's auction citation

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1005 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 — Fluted Gold Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the early 1980s. The fluting is always cast in gold, over gold, pink gold, two-tone and steel cases alike. Pink gold is the strongest branch and champagne the signature dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1005, Oyster Perpetual, fluted bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, 18k pink gold, two-tone Rolesor, Gay Freres bracelet, 1005/1035, Coca-Cola service award
|image=Ref 1005 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 in 18K gold with a fluted gold bezel and pale champagne dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:03Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:49Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1005'''

The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, the dress end of a line whose other members wear a plain or milled surround. The case is the same 34mm three-body Oyster as the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the [[Reference:1007|1007]], with 19mm lugs, a screw-down back and Twinlock crown, an acrylic crystal and a chronometer-rated no-date automatic. The bezel is the whole difference, and it is always gold. Yellow on the gold watches, and on the steel and two-tone examples a gold fluted bezel over a steel case, because Rolex never cut the fluting into steel on this reference.

What that does to the reference's population is unusual for the family. The 1005 is the one 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual whose auction record is dominated by precious metal: 14k and 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, two-tone, and only occasionally a steel case wearing a gold bezel. It reads as a Datejust without the date, which is close to what it was for.

[[File:Ref 1005 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|18K gold 1005 with the gold fluted bezel and a pale champagne dial, London import mark for 1973]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1005
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the early 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; steel with a gold fluted bezel; steel and gold two-tone
|-
| bezel
| fluted, always cast in gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570; one lot catalogued as caliber 1550
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| gold and two-tone Oyster, riveted then folded; gold fold-over; leather with a signed buckle
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1005 with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel, and the 1005 takes the most formal one. Nothing behind the bezel changes: the case, the calibers, the crown, the crystal and the chronometer rating are shared with the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the engine-turned references. The fluting is what buyers were paying for, and it moved the watch out of the tool-watch tier and into the same visual register as the Datejust, which by the 1960s had made the fluted bezel a Rolex signature.

That positioning explains the case-material spread. Where the [[Reference:1002|1002]] is overwhelmingly steel, the 1005 turns up in 14k gold, 18k gold, 18k pink gold and two-tone far more often than in plain steel, and the gold bezel is present in every configuration. The 1005 also lends its number to other references in the family: gold cases across the group carry a 1005 stamp inside the caseback, which is why paired forms like 1002/1005 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text on watches whose engraved reference is something else entirely.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 sets the practical start at 1959, and the earliest documented 1005s follow within three years. Case number 826,301 is dated to 1962 by Sotheby's and to circa 1963 by Bonhams, which sold the same pink-gold watch a decade later. Case number 903,017 is catalogued circa 1962 and case number 926,416 circa 1963. Case number 1,050,796 sits at circa 1964, and case number 1,176,167 carries a caseback stamped II.65, the cleanest quarter-code anchor on the reference.

The middle of the run runs through case number 1,177,843 in about 1966, 1,586,108 in 1971 with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971, 1,801,509 in 1968, and 3,021,909 in about 1971. A London import mark for 1973 dates an 18K example whose case number is 3,367,203, and case number 3,921,444 is catalogued circa 1974.

The end is less firmly drawn than the beginning. Sotheby's catalogued a steel-cased example with a gold fluted bezel, case number 7,126,615, as circa 1995, a date the case number contradicts by more than a decade; a serial in that band belongs to the early 1980s, which is where the rest of the record puts the close of the reference. No production figure has been published.

==Movement notes==

Caliber 1560 powers the reference from the start of the run to about 1965: a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965, lifting the rate to 19,800 vph and the power reserve to around 48 hours on the same architecture, and hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972.

One lot sits outside that pair. Artcurial catalogued an 18K rose gold 1005 sold with its box and guarantee as carrying caliber 1550, the non-chronometer sibling of the 1560. The dial on that watch is described as chronometer-certified, which does not sit comfortably with a 1550, and no second example has surfaced to support the attribution. Treat it as a catalogue reading rather than a documented movement variant. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the caliber lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]]

Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts.

Gilt and gold-toned dials sit alongside champagne on the 14k and 18k gold cases, usually with dauphine hands on the early examples and baton hands later. Silvered dials appear across the run, and on the pink-gold watches the markers and hands are matched to the case: Artcurial's 1966 rose-gold example has applied rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands.

Two colour branches break the pattern. Gloss black is documented on 18K gold by Christie's, on a 1964 watch with luminous hands and sweep centre seconds, and again on a gold-and-steel example whose Artcurial condition report records the dial as refinished. That second entry is the useful one: black dials on this reference are worth a hard look, because a refinished black dial is a common way to make an ordinary champagne watch more interesting. White with black Roman numerals appears on the two-tone watches, alongside applied luminous-tipped gilt batons, on a configuration that reads much closer to a Datejust than the rest of the reference does.

Diamond-set markers turn up on gold examples, and Christie's sold a 1973 yellow-gold 1005 with a gold dial and diamond-set hour markers. Factory gem-setting on this reference is not documented in Rolex material, and aftermarket diamond dials on 34mm Oysters are common, so the setting on any given example is worth establishing before paying for it.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]]

The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record.

The bezel is cast in gold in every documented configuration. On gold watches it matches the case, yellow on yellow and pink on pink. On steel and two-tone watches the fluted bezel is gold over a steel case, which Sotheby's states directly on a steel Oyster with an 18k yellow gold fluted bezel, and Bonhams confirms on a two-tone example whose fluted gold bezel sits over a steel middle on a steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet. The published family survey makes the same point for the whole line, noting that fluted bezels in this group are always cast in gold, yellow on the gold watches and white on the steel ones. White-gold fluted bezels on steel 1005 cases are recorded in that survey rather than in any lot located here, so the yellow-over-steel combination is the one with photographic backing.

Two lots show what happens when the bezel and the reference disagree. Heritage catalogued an 18k gold 1005 with a smooth bezel, and Artcurial catalogued a 14k Coca-Cola award example whose bezel photographs as plain polished. Neither is a documented variant. Both are more likely a bezel swapped at service or a reference read from the caseback stamp rather than from the engraving between the lugs, and on this reference the caseback stamp is the least reliable of the two numbers, because gold cases across the whole family carry a 1005 mark.

Case material spans 14k yellow gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, steel with a gold bezel, and steel-and-gold two-tone. Gross weights give a sense of the difference: a 14k gold watch on a strap runs around 40 to 49 grams, an 18k rose gold one about 52 grams, and a two-tone watch on its bracelet about 71 grams.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]]

Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather.

Mixed-carat deliveries are documented rather than assumed: Bonhams sold a 14K gold 1005 fitted with an 18K gold bracelet in September 2024. One 18K watch, catalogued under the paired designation 1005/1035, wears an integrated textured-gold bracelet rather than an Oyster at all. A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===Pink and rose gold===
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]]

The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference.

===The two-tone 1005===
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]]

Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

The Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service programme, which is best documented on the [[Reference:1003|1003]], reached the 1005 as well. Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold example delivered to the American market, case number 3,921,444, circa 1974, with the caseback engraved "Th. Rummens 25 years service Coca-Cola" on the outside and "RWC LTD" for Rolex Watch Company Limited on the inside. Heritage catalogued a separate 14k example with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription on a silver dial. Between them the two lots show the award appearing as a caseback engraving on one watch and as dial printing on another, which matches the pattern across the family.

==Auction record==

Gold cases keep the 1005 in a higher band than its plain-bezel siblings, and results cluster in the low-to-mid four figures across yellow gold, two-tone and steel-with-gold-bezel examples. Pink gold is the exception and roughly doubles it. The strongest documented result is an 18k pink-gold watch with a champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet, which has now traded twice at major houses two years apart. Complete sets carry a premium here as elsewhere, and two of the reference's more interesting lots, the Coca-Cola award and an early yellow-gold example, both failed to sell on estimates that sat above where the market has been settling.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 940
| 18k pink gold, champagne dial, cal 1560, case 826,301, c.1963
| HKD 63,750
|-
| Nov 2022
| Christie's, Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, lot 256
| yellow gold, gold dial with diamond-set hour markers, c.1973
| CHF 7,560 (est. CHF 4,000–8,000)
|-
| Sep 2022
| Bonhams London, lot 70
| 18K gold, ref 1005/1035, cal 1570, integrated textured-gold bracelet
| GBP 7,012
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 58
| 14K gold head on an 18K gold bracelet, cal 1560, champagne dial
| GBP 4,864
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 33
| 14k yellow gold, gilt dial, cal 1560, case 903,017, c.1962
| EUR 4,723 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Feb 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 74
| 18K gold, London import mark for 1973, pale champagne dial, case 3,367,203
| GBP 4,480
|-
| May 2022
| Bonhams Paris, Montres de Prestige, lot 117
| steel and gold, white Roman-numeral dial, fluted gold bezel, case 3,021,909, c.1971
| EUR 2,805
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 32
| gold and steel, refinished black dial, caseback stamped 1005 and II.65, case 1,176,167
| EUR 2,624
|-
| Jul 2023
| Artcurial Monaco, Vente Horlogerie de collection, lot 286
| 14k yellow gold Coca-Cola award, caseback engraved for its recipient, case 3,921,444, c.1974
| not sold (est. EUR 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2024
| Christie's, Watches Online, lot 315
| yellow gold, champagne dial, case 926,416, c.1963
| not sold (est. CHF 3,000–5,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27738/lot/940/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 940 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1963", Bonhams, 2022-12-01]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 263 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1962", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Fine Watches Lot 119 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold with box and papers", Artcurial, 2016-01-18
* Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Geneva Edit Lot 256 — Rolex yellow gold and diamond-set ref 1005", Christie's, 2022-11-01
* Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: Geneva Edit Lot 315 — Rolex yellow gold ref 1005 circa 1963", Christie's, 2024-05-07
* Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 23 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold with black dial", Christie's, 2016-11-14
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29150/lot/74/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 74 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold, London import 1973", Bonhams, 2024-02-21]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29153/lot/58/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 58 — Rolex ref 1005 14K gold on 18K bracelet", Bonhams, 2024-09-11]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Montres et montres-bracelets Lot 70 — Rolex ref 1005/1035 18K gold on integrated gold bracelet", Bonhams, 2022-09-14
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27810/lot/117/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Montres de Prestige Lot 117 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and gold, Roman-numeral dial", Bonhams, 2022-05-24]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Fine Timepieces Online Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 steel case with 18k gold fluted bezel", Sotheby's, 2018-03-02
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 33 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold circa 1962", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 32 — Rolex ref 1005 gold and steel, refinished black dial", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold 1968", Antiquorum, 2018-05-13
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-new-york-22/reference-1005-oyster-perpetual-a-stainless-steel Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Weekly Lot 553 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and yellow gold circa 1971", Sotheby's, 2020-10-20]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25394/lot/65/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 65 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold", Bonhams, 2019-02-19]
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54187 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold catalogued with a smooth bezel", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1005/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1005

2026-08-14T04:03:36Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 5 verified Bonhams auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1005 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 — Fluted Gold Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the early 1980s. The fluting is always cast in gold, over gold, pink gold, two-tone and steel cases alike. Pink gold is the strongest branch and champagne the signature dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1005, Oyster Perpetual, fluted bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, 18k pink gold, two-tone Rolesor, Gay Freres bracelet, 1005/1035, Coca-Cola service award
|image=Ref 1005 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1005 in 18K gold with a fluted gold bezel and pale champagne dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:03Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:49Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1005'''

The 1005 is the fluted-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, the dress end of a line whose other members wear a plain or milled surround. The case is the same 34mm three-body Oyster as the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the [[Reference:1007|1007]], with 19mm lugs, a screw-down back and Twinlock crown, an acrylic crystal and a chronometer-rated no-date automatic. The bezel is the whole difference, and it is always gold. Yellow on the gold watches, and on the steel and two-tone examples a gold fluted bezel over a steel case, because Rolex never cut the fluting into steel on this reference.

What that does to the reference's population is unusual for the family. The 1005 is the one 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual whose auction record is dominated by precious metal: 14k and 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, two-tone, and only occasionally a steel case wearing a gold bezel. It reads as a Datejust without the date, which is close to what it was for.

[[File:Ref 1005 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|18K gold 1005 with the gold fluted bezel and a pale champagne dial, London import mark for 1973]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1005
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the early 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; steel with a gold fluted bezel; steel and gold two-tone
|-
| bezel
| fluted, always cast in gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570; one lot catalogued as caliber 1550
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| gold and two-tone Oyster, riveted then folded; gold fold-over; leather with a signed buckle
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1005 with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1002/1005, 1003/1005 and 1005/1035
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel, and the 1005 takes the most formal one. Nothing behind the bezel changes: the case, the calibers, the crown, the crystal and the chronometer rating are shared with the [[Reference:1002|1002]] and the engine-turned references. The fluting is what buyers were paying for, and it moved the watch out of the tool-watch tier and into the same visual register as the Datejust, which by the 1960s had made the fluted bezel a Rolex signature.

That positioning explains the case-material spread. Where the [[Reference:1002|1002]] is overwhelmingly steel, the 1005 turns up in 14k gold, 18k gold, 18k pink gold and two-tone far more often than in plain steel, and the gold bezel is present in every configuration. The 1005 also lends its number to other references in the family: gold cases across the group carry a 1005 stamp inside the caseback, which is why paired forms like 1002/1005 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text on watches whose engraved reference is something else entirely.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 sets the practical start at 1959, and the earliest documented 1005s follow within three years. Case number 826,301 is dated to 1962 by Sotheby's and to circa 1963 by Bonhams, which sold the same pink-gold watch a decade later. Case number 903,017 is catalogued circa 1962 and case number 926,416 circa 1963. Case number 1,050,796 sits at circa 1964, and case number 1,176,167 carries a caseback stamped II.65, the cleanest quarter-code anchor on the reference.

The middle of the run runs through case number 1,177,843 in about 1966, 1,586,108 in 1971 with a guarantee booklet dated 22 December 1971, 1,801,509 in 1968, and 3,021,909 in about 1971. A London import mark for 1973 dates an 18K example whose case number is 3,367,203, and case number 3,921,444 is catalogued circa 1974.

The end is less firmly drawn than the beginning. Sotheby's catalogued a steel-cased example with a gold fluted bezel, case number 7,126,615, as circa 1995, a date the case number contradicts by more than a decade; a serial in that band belongs to the early 1980s, which is where the rest of the record puts the close of the reference. No production figure has been published.

==Movement notes==

Caliber 1560 powers the reference from the start of the run to about 1965: a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965, lifting the rate to 19,800 vph and the power reserve to around 48 hours on the same architecture, and hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972.

One lot sits outside that pair. Artcurial catalogued an 18K rose gold 1005 sold with its box and guarantee as carrying caliber 1550, the non-chronometer sibling of the 1560. The dial on that watch is described as chronometer-certified, which does not sit comfortably with a 1550, and no second example has surfaced to support the attribution. Treat it as a catalogue reading rather than a documented movement variant. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the caliber lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1005 yellow gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Champagne dial and gold fluted bezel on a yellow gold 1005, circa 1963]]

Champagne is the reference's signature dial and appears on more documented examples than everything else combined, which follows from the gold cases. The finish is a warm sunburst with applied gilt or gold baton markers, black or gilt outer minute divisions, and luminous five-minute dots on the examples that carry lume. Bonhams describes the standard configuration precisely on the 1973 London-import watch: pale champagne, applied gilt baton hour markers with black accents, black outer minute divisions with luminous dot five-minute markers, and gilt baton hands with luminous inserts.

Gilt and gold-toned dials sit alongside champagne on the 14k and 18k gold cases, usually with dauphine hands on the early examples and baton hands later. Silvered dials appear across the run, and on the pink-gold watches the markers and hands are matched to the case: Artcurial's 1966 rose-gold example has applied rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands.

Two colour branches break the pattern. Gloss black is documented on 18K gold by Christie's, on a 1964 watch with luminous hands and sweep centre seconds, and again on a gold-and-steel example whose Artcurial condition report records the dial as refinished. That second entry is the useful one: black dials on this reference are worth a hard look, because a refinished black dial is a common way to make an ordinary champagne watch more interesting. White with black Roman numerals appears on the two-tone watches, alongside applied luminous-tipped gilt batons, on a configuration that reads much closer to a Datejust than the rest of the reference does.

Diamond-set markers turn up on gold examples, and Christie's sold a 1973 yellow-gold 1005 with a gold dial and diamond-set hour markers. Factory gem-setting on this reference is not documented in Rolex material, and aftermarket diamond dials on 34mm Oysters are common, so the setting on any given example is worth establishing before paying for it.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1005 textured gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18K gold example catalogued under the paired designation ref 1005/1035, on an integrated textured-gold bracelet]]

The case is the shared 34mm Oyster, three-body, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback, Twinlock screw-down crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal throughout the run. House measurements vary between 33mm and 34mm on the same case; 34mm is the figure that agrees with the bulk of the record.

The bezel is cast in gold in every documented configuration. On gold watches it matches the case, yellow on yellow and pink on pink. On steel and two-tone watches the fluted bezel is gold over a steel case, which Sotheby's states directly on a steel Oyster with an 18k yellow gold fluted bezel, and Bonhams confirms on a two-tone example whose fluted gold bezel sits over a steel middle on a steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet. The published family survey makes the same point for the whole line, noting that fluted bezels in this group are always cast in gold, yellow on the gold watches and white on the steel ones. White-gold fluted bezels on steel 1005 cases are recorded in that survey rather than in any lot located here, so the yellow-over-steel combination is the one with photographic backing.

Two lots show what happens when the bezel and the reference disagree. Heritage catalogued an 18k gold 1005 with a smooth bezel, and Artcurial catalogued a 14k Coca-Cola award example whose bezel photographs as plain polished. Neither is a documented variant. Both are more likely a bezel swapped at service or a reference read from the caseback stamp rather than from the engraving between the lugs, and on this reference the caseback stamp is the least reliable of the two numbers, because gold cases across the whole family carry a 1005 mark.

Case material spans 14k yellow gold, 18k yellow gold, 18k pink gold, steel with a gold bezel, and steel-and-gold two-tone. Gross weights give a sense of the difference: a 14k gold watch on a strap runs around 40 to 49 grams, an 18k rose gold one about 52 grams, and a two-tone watch on its bracelet about 71 grams.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==
[[File:Ref 1005 bracelet.webp|thumb|right|250px|A 14K gold head on an 18K gold Oyster bracelet, a documented mixed-carat delivery]]

Gold delivery through the 1960s was a gold riveted Oyster bracelet with a folding clasp, and Sotheby's recorded one such bracelet on a 1962 pink-gold watch stamped by Gay Frères, the Geneva bracelet maker Rolex used before bringing production in-house. Folded-link gold Oyster bracelets follow, and two-tone watches came on steel-and-gold folded Oyster bracelets with signed folding clasps. Gold fold-over bracelets and leather straps with signed gilt or gold buckles are both original fitments, and a large share of surviving 1005s come to auction on associated leather.

Mixed-carat deliveries are documented rather than assumed: Bonhams sold a 14K gold 1005 fitted with an 18K gold bracelet in September 2024. One 18K watch, catalogued under the paired designation 1005/1035, wears an integrated textured-gold bracelet rather than an Oyster at all. A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head, and the cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===Pink and rose gold===
[[File:Ref 1005 pink gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|18k pink gold 1005 on a gold riveted Oyster bracelet, circa 1963]]

The 1005 is the reference in this group where pink gold is a real branch rather than a curiosity. Bonhams sold an 18k pink gold example in Hong Kong in December 2022, case number 826,301, on an 18k gold bracelet; Sotheby's had sold the same watch in Geneva in June 2020 with the bracelet identified as Gay Frères and the case number matching. Artcurial sold an 18K rose gold watch, case number 1,177,843, with its box and guarantee, silver dial, rose-gold markers and rose-gold leaf hands. Bonhams catalogued a further 18K rose gold example with caliber 1560 in February 2019. The pink-gold watches produce the strongest results on the reference.

===The two-tone 1005===
[[File:Ref 1005 two tone.webp|thumb|right|250px|Gold fluted bezel over a steel case, white dial with black Roman numerals, circa 1971]]

Steel-and-gold 1005s pair a steel case and steel-and-gold Oyster bracelet with a gold fluted bezel and gold-toned dial furniture. Bonhams sold a 1971 example in Paris with a white dial carrying black Roman numerals and applied luminous-tipped gilt baton markers, gross weight 71.30 grams. The configuration is the closest the reference comes to a Datejust, and it is the one where the gold-bezel-on-steel rule is most visible.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

The Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service programme, which is best documented on the [[Reference:1003|1003]], reached the 1005 as well. Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold example delivered to the American market, case number 3,921,444, circa 1974, with the caseback engraved "Th. Rummens 25 years service Coca-Cola" on the outside and "RWC LTD" for Rolex Watch Company Limited on the inside. Heritage catalogued a separate 14k example with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription on a silver dial. Between them the two lots show the award appearing as a caseback engraving on one watch and as dial printing on another, which matches the pattern across the family.

==Auction record==

Gold cases keep the 1005 in a higher band than its plain-bezel siblings, and results cluster in the low-to-mid four figures across yellow gold, two-tone and steel-with-gold-bezel examples. Pink gold is the exception and roughly doubles it. The strongest documented result is an 18k pink-gold watch with a champagne dial and a matching gold bracelet, which has now traded twice at major houses two years apart. Complete sets carry a premium here as elsewhere, and two of the reference's more interesting lots, the Coca-Cola award and an early yellow-gold example, both failed to sell on estimates that sat above where the market has been settling.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 940
| 18k pink gold, champagne dial, cal 1560, case 826,301, c.1963
| HKD 63,750
|-
| Nov 2022
| Christie's, Watches Online: The Geneva Edit, lot 256
| yellow gold, gold dial with diamond-set hour markers, c.1973
| CHF 7,560 (est. CHF 4,000–8,000)
|-
| Sep 2022
| Bonhams London, lot 70
| 18K gold, ref 1005/1035, cal 1570, integrated textured-gold bracelet
| GBP 7,012
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 58
| 14K gold head on an 18K gold bracelet, cal 1560, champagne dial
| GBP 4,864
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 33
| 14k yellow gold, gilt dial, cal 1560, case 903,017, c.1962
| EUR 4,723 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Feb 2024
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 74
| 18K gold, London import mark for 1973, pale champagne dial, case 3,367,203
| GBP 4,480
|-
| May 2022
| Bonhams Paris, Montres de Prestige, lot 117
| steel and gold, white Roman-numeral dial, fluted gold bezel, case 3,021,909, c.1971
| EUR 2,805
|-
| May 2022
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 32
| gold and steel, refinished black dial, caseback stamped 1005 and II.65, case 1,176,167
| EUR 2,624
|-
| Jul 2023
| Artcurial Monaco, Vente Horlogerie de collection, lot 286
| 14k yellow gold Coca-Cola award, caseback engraved for its recipient, case 3,921,444, c.1974
| not sold (est. EUR 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2024
| Christie's, Watches Online, lot 315
| yellow gold, champagne dial, case 926,416, c.1963
| not sold (est. CHF 3,000–5,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27738/lot/940/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 940 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1963", Bonhams, 2022-12-01]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 263 — Rolex ref 1005 pink gold circa 1962", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Fine Watches Lot 119 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold with box and papers", Artcurial, 2016-01-18
* Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Geneva Edit Lot 256 — Rolex yellow gold and diamond-set ref 1005", Christie's, 2022-11-01
* Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: Geneva Edit Lot 315 — Rolex yellow gold ref 1005 circa 1963", Christie's, 2024-05-07
* Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 23 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold with black dial", Christie's, 2016-11-14
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29150/lot/74/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 74 — Rolex ref 1005 18K gold, London import 1973", Bonhams, 2024-02-21]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29153/lot/58/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 58 — Rolex ref 1005 14K gold on 18K bracelet", Bonhams, 2024-09-11]
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Montres et montres-bracelets Lot 70 — Rolex ref 1005/1035 18K gold on integrated gold bracelet", Bonhams, 2022-09-14
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27810/lot/117/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Montres de Prestige Lot 117 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and gold, Roman-numeral dial", Bonhams, 2022-05-24]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Fine Timepieces Online Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 steel case with 18k gold fluted bezel", Sotheby's, 2018-03-02
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 33 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold circa 1962", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 32 — Rolex ref 1005 gold and steel, refinished black dial", Artcurial, 2022-05-03
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 140 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold 1968", Antiquorum, 2018-05-13
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Weekly Lot 553 — Rolex ref 1005 steel and yellow gold circa 1971", Sotheby's, 2020-10-20
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25394/lot/65/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 65 — Rolex ref 1005 18K rose gold", Bonhams, 2019-02-19]
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54187 — Rolex ref 1005 18k gold catalogued with a smooth bezel", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1005/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1003

2026-08-14T04:01:40Z

Admin: Recover real URL for verified Bonhams citation (shared with 1002)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1003 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 — Engine-Turned Bezel & Coca-Cola Dials | BezelBase
|description=The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the late 1970s, in steel, 14k and 18k gold and British 9-carat cases. Its auction record is dominated by Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service dials, and the strongest steel result is the Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse' Air-King.
|keywords=Rolex 1003, Oyster Perpetual, engine-turned bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Minnie Mouse Air-King, 9K gold Glasgow import, 1003/1005
|image=Ref 1003 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 in steel with an engine-turned bezel and a spotted cream dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:00Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:46Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1003'''

The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, and the one the catalogues struggle to describe. Rolex's own term for the bezel is engine-turned; Sotheby's has called it milled, Bonhams has called it milled and ridged in the same decade, and Antiquorum, on the examples that matter most, calls it a graduated engine-turned bezel with hour divisions. Underneath the argument is the same watch as the smooth [[Reference:1002|1002]]: 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal, chronometer-rated no-date automatic, caliber 1560 and then caliber 1570.

Its documented population splits along an unusual line. Steel 1003s are ordinary and trade like ordinary vintage Rolex. The gold ones are mostly not catalogue watches at all: they are twenty-five-year service awards, and Coca-Cola commissioned enough of them that the reference's auction record is dominated by a single corporate gift programme. The best 1003 result on file is a Coca-Cola dial that went for roughly five times its high estimate.

[[File:Ref 1003 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1003, circa 1975, with the engine-turned bezel and a heavily spotted cream dial]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1003
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the late 1970s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 9k and 9ct gold for the British market
|-
| bezel
| engine-turned, graduated with hour divisions on documented gold examples
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| rivet Oyster, later folded Oyster, gold fold-over bracelets, leather
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1003/1002 and 1003/1005
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Four reference numbers in this family carry engine-turned bezels, and the published literature does not draw a clean line between the 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008. What separates them in practice is the number engraved between the lugs, not a feature anyone can call from a photograph. The 1003 is the most frequently catalogued of the four and the one that turns up in gold most often.

Against the rest of the group the position is straightforward. The [[Reference:1002|1002]] is the same watch with a plain surround and sold in far greater numbers; the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the gold fluted bezel; the [[Reference:1007|1007]] is the closest sibling of all and the one with the widest documented dial spread. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] scales the same design up to 36mm on 20mm lugs. The 1003 belongs to a middle tier of the line: dressier than the plain 1002, less formal than the fluted 1005, and available in steel or gold at either end of the range.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959 and gives the practical start of the run. The earliest documented 1003s sit right on it: case number 512,833, catalogued circa 1960, and case number 573,835, whose chronometer certificate is dated 22 December 1960. A Glasgow import mark for 1961 dates a 9K gold example, and a 9ct gold watch with its original 1966 receipt dates itself.

The run continues through case number 531,734 in 1966, 1,197,501 in 1964, 3,044,042 in 1972, 3,960,865 around 1975 and 5,426,177 in 1977. The Antiquorum lot that closes the record describes a watch produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, which is the latest documented delivery. That places the reference's end alongside the rest of the 4-digit no-date group rather than with the [[Reference:1002|1002]], which carried on into the 1980s.

No production figure has been published, and the shape of the surviving population is uneven: steel examples appear regularly in general watch sales, while gold examples concentrate in the service-award group.

==Movement notes==

Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel caliber 1530, movement number 98643, in a 1003 accompanied by a chronometer certificate dated December 1960; the same house recorded a 1530 in a [[Reference:1002|1002]] bought in 1962. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance lists the 1530 only against the 5500 family and gives the 1003 to calibers 1560 and 1570, so the earliest movement in this reference is documented by catalogue text rather than by the published table.

Caliber 1560 runs from the start to about 1965. It is a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with an overcoil hairspring, a shock-protected free-sprung balance and Microstella regulating screws; the earliest examples carry the butterfly rotor, which Bonhams noted explicitly on a 1960 gold watch. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 at 19,800 vph, and Antiquorum's description of a 1972 example records the oeil-de-perdrix decoration and the self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964]]

Silvered is the default and covers most of the record: sunburst and satiné finishes on steel and gold alike, with applied baton or dart markers, luminous five-minute dots and a printed chronometer line. A cream or beige tone appears on aged gold examples, and Artcurial's 1966 gold watch is described as patinated cream. Sotheby's 2021 steel example photographs as a heavily spotted cream dial with rose-toned markers, the kind of tropical change that reads as condition rather than as a factory variant.

Beyond the silvered default the record splits three ways. The corporate service dials are the largest branch and are covered below. Air-King dials turn up in 1003 cases, in silver and in blue, which follows from the case-middle sharing with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] and is why Antiquorum catalogued one steel watch as ref 1003/1002 with an Air-King dial. British-market gold examples carry silvered dials with applied gilt dart markers and Arabic numerals at the quarters, a configuration Bonhams documented on both the 1961 Glasgow watch and the 1960 New York one.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1003 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|9K gold British-market 1003 with a Glasgow import mark for 1961, silvered dial with gilt dart markers and Arabic quarters]]

The case is the shared 34mm three-body Oyster, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal. Antiquorum's two most detailed lots give the case as 34mm across and 12mm thick, which is the measurement to trust; house figures elsewhere range from 33mm to 35mm on the same case.

The bezel is the reference's identity and the thing catalogue text handles worst. Antiquorum's descriptions are the most useful, because they specify what the milling does: an engine-turned bezel with hour divisions, described on one lot as graduated. That is a bezel whose cut segments are indexed to the hours rather than a continuous decorative knurl, and it is the detail that separates a 1003 from a generic milled surround. Bonhams has called the same bezel milled, and Artcurial described a 1966 example as semi engine-turned, which suggests the pattern was not uniform across the run.

Case material spreads wider than the steel-and-gold summary implies. Stainless steel is the volume production and 14k and 18k yellow gold both appear. The British market took 9-carat cases, and Bonhams has catalogued 1003s described as 9K and as 9ct gold in three separate sales, one of them hallmarked with a Glasgow import mark for 1961. As on the rest of the family, the reference between the lugs names the bezel and the stamp inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling, which is why the paired forms 1003/1002 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery follows the family pattern: riveted Oyster bracelets through the 1960s, folded links afterwards. Antiquorum's 1964 Air-King-dial example came on a steel riveted Rolex bracelet, which is period-correct for the case number. Gold watches went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle, and one British 9ct example is documented on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet with a locking clasp. Later examples come to auction on leather more often than on their original metal, and several catalogued 1003s carry associated straps and buckles rather than factory fitments.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Coca-Cola service awards===
[[File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|thumb|right|250px|The 25 Years of Service Coca-Cola dial on a yellow gold ref 1003/1005, circa 1977]]

Coca-Cola marked twenty-five years of employee service with a gold Oyster Perpetual, and the 1003 is the reference the programme used most visibly. The configuration is consistent: a gold case under the paired designation 1003/1005 or 1003/1002, a satiné or matte silver dial carrying the Coca-Cola script logo and a 25 Years Service dedication, applied gold baton indexes with tritium dots, and gold baton hands. Antiquorum sold an 18k example from the Mondani collection in 2006, case number 5,426,177, made in 1977; Sotheby's Geneva sold the same watch in 2014. A second, case number 3,044,042, made in 1972, passed through Antiquorum in 2007. A third, produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, came up in New York in 2004.

The programme was not confined to this reference. Christie's Dubai and Sotheby's Geneva both catalogued a 14k gold [[Reference:1002|1002]] on the same award, Artcurial sold a 14k [[Reference:1005|1005]] with the caseback engraved for its recipient, and Heritage catalogued a 14k 1005 with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription. What distinguishes the 1003 group is the strength of the results, which sit an order of magnitude above ordinary examples of the reference.

===The Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse'===
[[File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|thumb|right|250px|The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text]]

Sotheby's sold a steel watch in New York in October 2020 catalogued as "Reference 1003 Air-King 'Minnie Mouse'". The dial is silvered, carries Air-King and PRECISION text, and has a printed Minnie Mouse figure standing between the centre and six o'clock. Case number 3,011,703 dates it to about 1972; the inner caseback is stamped 1002 and the movement is caliber 1570. Character dials were made for the Air-King line rather than for the chronometer references, so what the lot documents is a character-dial Air-King in a 1003-engraved case rather than a factory 1003 variant. It is the strongest steel result on the reference, above its high estimate.

===The Diesel Power Company dial===

Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold 1003 in Monte-Carlo in July 2011, case number 531,734, circa 1966, with a patinated cream dial carrying a Diesel Power Company service logo. The configuration parallels the Coca-Cola awards without belonging to them, and it establishes that Rolex supplied service dials on this reference to more than one corporate client.

===British-market gold cases===

Bonhams has catalogued three 1003s in 9-carat gold, a case material Rolex used for the British market where import duty made 18-carat cases expensive. One carries a Glasgow import mark for 1961 with caliber 1560; another, case number 512,833, is a 1960 New York lot with the butterfly rotor; a third is a 1966 watch on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet, sold with its original receipt. Hallmarks on these cases date the import rather than the movement, and the assay office letter is the practical dating tool where the case number has worn away.

==Auction record==

Steel 1003s trade in the low four figures, and the gold ones split sharply by dial. An unmarked gold 1003 sits in the same band as a good steel example; a Coca-Cola service dial multiplies it. Sotheby's Geneva sold one for roughly five times its high estimate in 2014, and the same watch had made a strong result at Antiquorum eight years earlier from the Mondani collection, so the premium is not a one-sale accident. The Minnie Mouse Air-King is the strongest steel result and reflects the character-dial market rather than the reference.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| May 2014
| Sotheby's Geneva, Important Watches, lot 216
| yellow gold, "25 Years of Service Coca-Cola" dial, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, c.1977
| CHF 37,500 (est. CHF 6,000–8,000)
|-
| Oct 2007
| Antiquorum Geneva, Important Collectors' Watches, lot 486
| yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 3,044,042, made 1972
| CHF 12,980 (est. CHF 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2006
| Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection, lot 111
| 18k yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, made 1977
| CHF 11,800 (est. CHF 8,000–10,000)
|-
| Oct 2020
| Sotheby's New York, Watches, lot 97
| steel Air-King 'Minnie Mouse', cal 1570, case 3,011,703, c.1972
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 4,000–6,000)
|-
| Jul 2011
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Fine Watches, lot 406
| 14k yellow gold, Diesel Power Company service dial, case 531,734, c.1966
| EUR 4,335 (est. EUR 3,000–3,500)
|-
| Jun 2021
| Sotheby's Geneva, Fine Watches, lot 42
| steel, spotted cream dial, cal 1570, case 3,960,865, c.1975
| CHF 2,142 (est. CHF 1,000–3,000)
|-
| Nov 2017
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 121
| 9K gold, Glasgow import mark for 1961, cal 1560, silvered dial with Arabic quarters
| GBP 2,000
|-
| Nov 2016
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 38
| steel with Air-King dial, ref 1003/1002, case 1,197,501, made 1964, rivet bracelet
| CHF 1,875 (est. CHF 1,000–2,000)
|-
| Dec 2007
| Bonhams New York, Fine Watches and Wristwatches, lot 125
| 9k gold, cal 1560 with butterfly rotor, case 512,833, c.1960
| USD 1,440
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Montres, lot 84
| steel, cal 1530, case 573,835, chronometer certificate dated December 1960
| GBP 960
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 216 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years of Service", Sotheby's, 2014-05-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva The Mondani Collection Lot 111 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Collectors' Watches Lot 486 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 1972", Antiquorum, 2007-10-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Collector's Wristwatches Lot 118 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2004-03-24
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Lot 97 — Rolex ref 1003 Air-King "Minnie Mouse" circa 1972", Sotheby's, 2020-10-29
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 38 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 with Air-King dial", Antiquorum, 2016-11-13
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Fine Watches Lot 42 — Rolex ref 1003 steel milled bezel circa 1975", Sotheby's, 2021-06-24
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Montres Lot 84 — Rolex ref 1003 caliber 1530, chronometer certificate 1960", Bonhams, 2024-09-19
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 121 — Rolex ref 1003 9K gold, Glasgow import 1961", Bonhams, 2017-11-21
* Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Fine Watches and Wristwatches Lot 125 — Rolex ref 1003 9k gold circa 1960", Bonhams, 2007-12-06
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Knightsbridge Clocks, Watches & Barometers Lot 162 — Rolex ref 1003 9ct gold 1966", Bonhams, 2003-10-07
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Fine Watches Lot 406 — Rolex ref 1003 14k gold with Diesel Power service dial", Artcurial, 2011-07-26
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01]
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1003 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1002

2026-08-14T04:00:48Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 5 verified Sotheby's auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1002 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 — Smooth Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1002 is the smooth-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1530 then 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the 1980s. Steel, 14k and 18k gold, 18k pink gold and British 9-carat cases, plus the Al-Sabah signed dial, Coca-Cola service awards and the American Heritage corporate dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1002, Oyster Perpetual, smooth bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, cal 1530, 34mm, 7205 rivet Oyster, 78350, Air-King 5500 case, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Al-Sabah dial
|image=Ref 1002 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 in steel with a smooth polished bezel, silvered dial and Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:51:57Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:42Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1002'''

The 1002 is the plain-bezel member of the 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual line and the reference the rest of the group is measured against. It shares its 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal and chronometer-rated automatic with the engine-turned [[Reference:1007|1007]] and the fluted [[Reference:1005|1005]]. What it does differently is nothing at all. The surround is a polished band with no milling and no flutes, and Rolex sold it that way from around 1959 into the 1980s, which makes it the longest-running and the most common of the four.

Its number does more work than its bezel. Rolex stamped 1002 inside the casebacks of steel cases across the family, the Air-King [[Reference:5500|5500]] included, so the mark turns up on watches whose dials and bezels have nothing to do with this reference. Houses have catalogued 1002-cased watches as Air-Kings, as Explorers, and once, on a caliber 620 pink-gold watch that cannot be a 1002 at all, as a Bubbleback. Reading a 1002 starts with understanding that the number identifies a case rather than a watch.

[[File:Ref 1002 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1002 with the plain polished bezel that defines the reference, silvered dial, caliber 1570, circa 1970]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1002
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; 9k gold for the British market, catalogued 1002/8; steel with a gold bezel
|-
| bezel
| smooth polished, fixed
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| 7205 rivet Oyster on 57 end links, 78350 folded Oyster on 557 end links, Jubilee; gold and two-tone equivalents
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold, with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| sibling references
| 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel. The 1002 takes the smooth polished surround. The 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008 take engine-turned bezels of varying patterns, and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the fluted bezel, which in this family is always cast in gold. Everything behind the bezel is common property: the 34mm three-body case, the drilled 19mm lugs, the Twinlock crown, the acrylic crystal, the chronometer-rated no-date automatic.

Two neighbours matter more than the siblings. The [[Reference:5500|5500]] Air-King is the same 34mm case fitted with a non-chronometer caliber and Air-King dial text, sold at a lower price; the case-middle tooling is shared, which is why 5500 casebacks from the late 1960s onward carry a 1002 stamp. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] is the 36mm version of the same idea, and its case is the one the Explorer [[Reference:1016|1016]] is built on. The 1002 sits at the volume end of that spread. It was the ordinary Rolex, the one bought as a first good watch and worn for thirty years, and the survival rate reflects it.

==Production outline==

Rolex published no production figure for the 1002 and no dated catalogue page fixes its introduction. Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959, which sets the practical start of the run, and the earliest documented case number sits right on it: 487,864, a pink-gold example Artcurial has catalogued twice, dating it circa 1966 in 2016 and circa 1976 in 2021. Neither date agrees with the serial, and the serial is the better guide.

The middle of the run is densely documented. Bonhams catalogued a caliber 1530 example bought on 3 September 1962 with its receipt, guarantee card and swing tag intact. Case number 1,047,802 is dated by Christie's to circa 1964 and case number 1,354,811 to circa 1966. Case number 1,678,569 came with a Bureaux Suisses chronometer certificate dated 9 February 1968, the tightest date anchor on the reference. Case numbers around 2,190,000 reach 1970, 2,818,213 carries a caseback stamped III.71 inside, and 2,981,934 is catalogued circa 1972.

The end of the run is where the sources part company. Case number 4,710,813 is catalogued circa 1976 and case number 5,218,806 as 1977 to 1978. Artcurial dated case number 8,024,591 to circa 1983. Sotheby's Hong Kong went further and catalogued an L-prefix example, case number L962520, as circa 1989, which would put it years after caliber 1570 left production and after every other account closes the reference. The L-serial watch is the outlier in the record and no second late example has surfaced to support it.

==Movement notes==

Three calibers appear in documented 1002s. Caliber 1530 turns up on the earliest examples: Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel 1530, movement number D675858, in a 1002 sold in September 1962, and a matching 1530 in a [[Reference:1003|1003]] carrying a chronometer certificate dated December 1960. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance does not list the 1002 against the 1530, giving it only to the 5500 family, so the two Bonhams lots stand against the published table rather than beside it.

Caliber 1560 is the movement of the reference's first decade, a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels beating at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. The earliest examples run the butterfly rotor. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 and lifts the rate to 19,800 vph with a power reserve near 48 hours; the architecture is otherwise unchanged. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972, which splits late 1002s from everything before. Chronometer certification is the reason the dial carries the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified line, and it is what separates the 1002 from the Air-King running on the same case. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] holds the full lineage.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black gloss dial with applied brushed gilt batons on an 18k gold 1002, circa 1968, on its 7205 gold rivet bracelet]]
[[File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands in a 34mm case catalogued as a 1002; unsold at Bonhams in 2020 and again in 2021]]

No 4-digit Oyster Perpetual carries as many documented dials as the 1002, which follows from the length of the run and the number of markets it was sold into. The pattern across the record is straightforward: steel cases take silvered, white, grey and blue dials, gold cases take champagne, gilt and gloss black, and the special dials are corporate, retailer or regional commissions rather than factory catalogue options.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! dial
! case
! documented example
|-
| sunburst silvered, gilt baton markers
| steel
| Bonhams March 2024 lot 27, caliber 1530, purchased September 1962
|-
| sunburst silvered, applied gilt batons
| steel
| Bonhams New York July 2021 lot 87, case 1,750,342, c.1967
|-
| sunburst grey, applied polished batons
| steel
| Bonhams London September 2019 lot 164, c.1964
|-
| silvered, applied hour markers
| steel
| Sotheby's New York June 2020 lot 213, case 1,678,569, c.1968
|-
| silvered "sigma", applied white-gold indexes
| steel
| Tajan Paris July 2020 lot 60, case 2,981,934, c.1972
|-
| blue
| steel
| Antiquorum New York April 2015 lot 213, case 2,668,283, made 1970
|-
| white, applied batons
| steel
| Sotheby's Hong Kong November 2020 lot 114, case L962520
|-
| white, painted Roman numerals
| steel
| Aguttes Paris November 2014 lot 146, case 7,459,438, c.1970; Artcurial Paris December 2014 lot 577, case 8,024,591, c.1983
|-
| black, 3-6-9 markers and Mercedes hands
| steel
| Bonhams London February 2021 lot 41, caseback stamped II.62
|-
| black gloss, applied brushed gilt batons
| 18k yellow gold
| Bonhams Paris November 2021 lot 27, case 2,044,863, c.1968
|-
| champagne
| 18k yellow gold
| Sotheby's Geneva June 2020 lot 262, retailed by Astrua, c.1969
|-
| gilt, applied baton indexes
| 18k pink gold
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo May 2021 lot 79, case 487,864
|-
| blue
| 14k yellow gold
| Antiquorum Hong Kong October 2019 lot 318, ref 1002/1005, c.1977–78
|-
| silvered, Arabic owner's signature
| steel
| Christie's Dubai October 2021 lot 62, c.1967
|-
| silvered, Coca-Cola 25 Years Service
| 14k yellow gold
| Christie's Dubai December 2019 lot 6, ref 1002/1005, c.1966
|}

Two entries deserve a caution. The black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands is an Explorer configuration in a 34mm case, and Bonhams offered the watch twice, in November 2020 and February 2021, without selling it either time; a genuine factory Explorer-dial 1002 has not been established, and one unsold lot is a lead rather than a variant. The Antiquorum sale of a loose so-called Zephyr dial catalogued for ref 1002/1008 shows the dial existed for this case group, but no complete Zephyr-dial 1002 has appeared at a major house.

Refinishing is the default assumption on anything unusual. Custom-coloured dials circulate on the whole 100x group, and a colour that appears on no other documented example is more likely a repaint than a discovery.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet]]

The case is a three-body Oyster in a tonneau profile, brushed and polished, 34mm across the bezel and around 12mm thick, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock screw-down crown and drilled 19mm lugs. Catalogue measurements wander: houses have given the same case as 33mm, 33.5mm, 34mm, 35mm and, in one Antiquorum lot, 35.5mm. The 34mm figure is the one that agrees with the bulk of the record and with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] that shares the tooling.

The bezel is a plain polished band, fixed, with no timing scale and no engine-turning. On gold and two-tone examples it is gold and slightly wider in appearance, and Gros Delettrez catalogued a steel 1002 with a gold bezel in 1966, so the two-tone configuration is documented despite the reference being usually described as steel-only. Case material otherwise spreads further than the group's reputation suggests: stainless steel is the volume production, 14k and 18k yellow gold are both common, 18k pink gold appears from 1959, and the British market took 9-carat cases that Bonhams catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8.

Two numbers identify the watch and they do not have to match. The reference engraved between the lugs names the bezel variant; the number stamped inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling. Across the documented lots, steel cases carry 1002 inside and gold cases carry 1005, which is why Sotheby's found a 1005 stamp inside a 14k gold watch it catalogued as a 1002 and why Rolex's own paired designations read 1002/1005, 1002/1008, 1003/1002 and 1005/1035. A Roman-quarter date code sits alongside the stamp and should agree with the serial band.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery through the 1960s was the 7205 rivet Oyster in 19mm with 57 end links and a signed folding clasp. From the late 1960s the folded-link 78350 on 557 end links takes over, and Christie's documented the changeover on one watch directly: a 1967 example that left the factory on a 7205, came to auction on a 78350 stamped 19, and carried a Rolex invoice dated 28 March 1989 recording the bracelet replacement and an overhaul. Jubilee bracelets are original on plenty of examples, in steel and in gold, and gold watches also went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and nothing else. Sixty years of servicing has separated most 1002 heads from what they left on, and a later clasp stamp under an earlier case is ordinary wear history. One Bonhams lot carries a caseback stamped II.62 under a clasp stamped 1 64, which is exactly the kind of small mismatch that is normal rather than suspicious. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Al-Sabah dial===
[[File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|thumb|right|300px|The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line]]

Christie's sold a steel 1002 in Dubai in October 2021 carrying the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed in black across the lower dial, under the applied markers and above the chronometer line. The watch dates to about 1967, runs caliber 1570 and came with product literature, its certificate of guarantee, the COSC certificate for its original movement, the presentation box, a hang tag and the 1989 Rolex service invoice. It is the strongest 1002 result located and the clearest documented example of the Gulf-market personalised dials that Rolex supplied through the 1960s. Antiquorum sold a second Arabic-dial steel 1002, case number 1,678,614, in Hong Kong in 2017.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

Coca-Cola gave gold Oyster Perpetuals to employees marking twenty-five years of service, and the programme ran across the whole 100x group rather than one reference. On the 1002 the configuration is a 14k yellow gold case under the paired designation 1002/1005, a silvered dial printed with the Coca-Cola script and the 25 Years Service line, and a caseback engraved with the recipient's name. Christie's Dubai sold one in December 2019 engraved "L. Penasse, April 21, 1966" with its guarantee, a bulletin de marche dated 30 June 1966 and its box; Sotheby's Geneva had sold the same watch, case number 1,354,811, five years earlier. The [[Reference:1003|1003]] and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] carry their own versions of the same award.

===American Heritage===

Christie's catalogued a steel 1002, case number 2,818,213, circa 1971, with a silvered brushed dial carrying an American Heritage logo and a "$3000" designation, the caseback stamped III.71 inside. The dollar figure is a sales-award threshold rather than a price, and the watch is the clearest documented corporate-award 1002 outside the Coca-Cola group.

===Retailer signatures===

Astrua, the Turin retailer, signed a champagne-dial 18k gold 1002 that Sotheby's sold in Geneva in June 2020 with its Rolex guarantee and COSC certificate. Retailer-signed 100x dials are more often found on the gold [[Reference:1007|1007]], where Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino examples are documented, and the 1002's retailer branch is thinner than its production volume would suggest.

===Air-King dials in 1002 cases===
[[File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|thumb|right|250px|An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976]]

Bonhams catalogued a 1976 steel watch as "Model: Air-King, Reference: 1002", silvered dial, Jubilee bracelet, and sold it for more than most chronometer-dial 1002s of the same year. These are Air-King watches in the shared case rather than 1002s with the wrong dial, and the [[Reference:5500|5500]] entry covers the case-sharing in full. The practical consequence for a buyer is that a 1002 stamp inside a caseback proves nothing about what is on the dial.

==Auction record==

The 1002 trades in the low thousands as a rule, often without reserve and usually in general watch sales rather than dedicated vintage Rolex auctions. Condition and completeness move the number more than metal does: a steel example with its box, guarantee and chronometer certificate beats a bare gold one often enough to be a pattern. Above that band sit the dials that carry a story. The Al-Sabah watch, the Coca-Cola awards and the gold blue-dial examples reach five figures, and the two strongest results on record are both dials rather than cases.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Oct 2021
| Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 62
| steel, silver dial signed by Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah, cal 1570, c.1967
| USD 17,500 (est. USD 10,000–15,000)
|-
| Oct 2019
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 318
| 14k yellow gold, blue dial, ref 1002/1005, case 5,218,806, c.1977–78
| HKD 68,750 (est. HKD 45,000–65,000)
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 939
| 9k yellow gold, ref 1002/8, case 1,124,624, c.1965
| HKD 51,000
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's New York, Fine Watches, lot 137
| 14k yellow gold, silvered dial, gold Jubilee, case 736,275, c.1961
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 5,000–7,000)
|-
| Nov 2021
| Bonhams Paris, lot 27
| 18k gold, black gloss dial, 7205 gold rivet bracelet, case 2,044,863, c.1968
| EUR 6,375
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's Hong Kong, Fine Watches, lot 8044
| steel, silvered dial, cal 1570, case 2,190,998, c.1970
| HKD 27,720 (est. HKD 20,000–40,000)
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Watches, lot 2013
| steel, Air-King dial, Jubilee bracelet, case 4,710,813, c.1976
| USD 3,328
|-
| May 2021
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 79
| 18k pink gold, gilt dial, cal 1560 butterfly rotor, case 487,864
| EUR 3,900 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Mar 2024
| Bonhams, Watches Online, lot 27
| steel, cal 1530, sunburst silvered dial, full set, purchased September 1962
| USD 2,816
|-
| Jul 2021
| Bonhams New York, Watches Online, lot 87
| steel, sunburst silvered dial, cal 1570, case 1,750,342, c.1967
| USD 1,785
|-
| Feb 2021
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 41
| steel, black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands, caseback II.62
| not sold (est. EUR 4,000–6,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20177.62&LotNumber=62 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Dubai Edit Lot 62 — Rolex ref 1002 with the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah", Christie's, 2021-10-27]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993056 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 266 — Rolex ref 1002 made for American Heritage", Christie's, 2016-05-16]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 127 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola", Sotheby's, 2014-11-11
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/fine-watches-2/reference-1002-oyster-perpetual-a-yellow Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Fine Watches Lot 137 — Rolex ref 1002 yellow gold circa 1961", Sotheby's, 2021-03-19]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2021/watches-13/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-wristwatch Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Fine Watches Lot 8044 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1970", Sotheby's, 2021-03-04]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-online-3/rolex-reference-1002-a-stainless-steel-automatic Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Important Watches Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1968", Sotheby's, 2020-06-24]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-geneva-5/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1002-retailed-by-astrua Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 262 — Rolex ref 1002 retailed by Astrua", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-weekly-hong-kong-26/rolex-oyster-perpetual-reference-1002-a-stainless Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Watches Weekly Lot 114 — Rolex ref 1002 steel white dial", Sotheby's, 2020-11-18]
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 318 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Lot 293 — Rolex "Zephir" dial for ref 1002/1008", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 86 — Rolex ref 1002 Arabic dial", Antiquorum, 2017-03-18
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2015-04-15
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 939 — Rolex ref 1002/8 9k yellow gold circa 1965", Bonhams, 2022-12-01
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27376/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Bijoux, Montres & Maroquinerie Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold black gloss dial", Bonhams, 2021-11-25]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29501/lot/2013/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Watches Lot 2013 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Air-King, circa 1976", Bonhams, 2024-09-13]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26682/lot/41/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 41 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Explorer", Bonhams, 2021-02-23]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25397/lot/164/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 164 — Rolex ref 1002 sunburst grey dial", Bonhams, 2019-09-19]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 79 — Rolex ref 1002 pink gold", Artcurial, 2021-05-20
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Jewellery & Watches Lot 133 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold, case 487864", Artcurial, 2016-04-12
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Fine Watches Lot 577 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial circa 1983", Artcurial, 2014-12-10
* Tajan, "Tajan Paris Watches Lot 60 — Rolex ref 1002 sigma dial circa 1972", Tajan, 2020-07-22
* Gros Delettrez, "Gros Delettrez Paris Montres & Horlogerie Lot 13 — Rolex ref 1002 steel with gold bezel", Gros Delettrez, 2015-11-13
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26924/lot/87/ Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Watches Online Lot 87 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1967", Bonhams, 2021-07-28]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6146224 Christie's, "Christie's Hong Kong Important Watches and Private Collections Lot 2204 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1964", Christie's, 2018-05-28]
* Aguttes, "Aguttes Paris Horlogerie Lot 146 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial", Aguttes, 2014-11-07
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1002/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1002 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1002

2026-08-14T03:57:12Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 6 verified Bonhams auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1002 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 — Smooth Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1002 is the smooth-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1530 then 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the 1980s. Steel, 14k and 18k gold, 18k pink gold and British 9-carat cases, plus the Al-Sabah signed dial, Coca-Cola service awards and the American Heritage corporate dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1002, Oyster Perpetual, smooth bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, cal 1530, 34mm, 7205 rivet Oyster, 78350, Air-King 5500 case, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Al-Sabah dial
|image=Ref 1002 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 in steel with a smooth polished bezel, silvered dial and Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:51:57Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:42Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1002'''

The 1002 is the plain-bezel member of the 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual line and the reference the rest of the group is measured against. It shares its 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal and chronometer-rated automatic with the engine-turned [[Reference:1007|1007]] and the fluted [[Reference:1005|1005]]. What it does differently is nothing at all. The surround is a polished band with no milling and no flutes, and Rolex sold it that way from around 1959 into the 1980s, which makes it the longest-running and the most common of the four.

Its number does more work than its bezel. Rolex stamped 1002 inside the casebacks of steel cases across the family, the Air-King [[Reference:5500|5500]] included, so the mark turns up on watches whose dials and bezels have nothing to do with this reference. Houses have catalogued 1002-cased watches as Air-Kings, as Explorers, and once, on a caliber 620 pink-gold watch that cannot be a 1002 at all, as a Bubbleback. Reading a 1002 starts with understanding that the number identifies a case rather than a watch.

[[File:Ref 1002 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1002 with the plain polished bezel that defines the reference, silvered dial, caliber 1570, circa 1970]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1002
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; 9k gold for the British market, catalogued 1002/8; steel with a gold bezel
|-
| bezel
| smooth polished, fixed
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| 7205 rivet Oyster on 57 end links, 78350 folded Oyster on 557 end links, Jubilee; gold and two-tone equivalents
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold, with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| sibling references
| 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel. The 1002 takes the smooth polished surround. The 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008 take engine-turned bezels of varying patterns, and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the fluted bezel, which in this family is always cast in gold. Everything behind the bezel is common property: the 34mm three-body case, the drilled 19mm lugs, the Twinlock crown, the acrylic crystal, the chronometer-rated no-date automatic.

Two neighbours matter more than the siblings. The [[Reference:5500|5500]] Air-King is the same 34mm case fitted with a non-chronometer caliber and Air-King dial text, sold at a lower price; the case-middle tooling is shared, which is why 5500 casebacks from the late 1960s onward carry a 1002 stamp. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] is the 36mm version of the same idea, and its case is the one the Explorer [[Reference:1016|1016]] is built on. The 1002 sits at the volume end of that spread. It was the ordinary Rolex, the one bought as a first good watch and worn for thirty years, and the survival rate reflects it.

==Production outline==

Rolex published no production figure for the 1002 and no dated catalogue page fixes its introduction. Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959, which sets the practical start of the run, and the earliest documented case number sits right on it: 487,864, a pink-gold example Artcurial has catalogued twice, dating it circa 1966 in 2016 and circa 1976 in 2021. Neither date agrees with the serial, and the serial is the better guide.

The middle of the run is densely documented. Bonhams catalogued a caliber 1530 example bought on 3 September 1962 with its receipt, guarantee card and swing tag intact. Case number 1,047,802 is dated by Christie's to circa 1964 and case number 1,354,811 to circa 1966. Case number 1,678,569 came with a Bureaux Suisses chronometer certificate dated 9 February 1968, the tightest date anchor on the reference. Case numbers around 2,190,000 reach 1970, 2,818,213 carries a caseback stamped III.71 inside, and 2,981,934 is catalogued circa 1972.

The end of the run is where the sources part company. Case number 4,710,813 is catalogued circa 1976 and case number 5,218,806 as 1977 to 1978. Artcurial dated case number 8,024,591 to circa 1983. Sotheby's Hong Kong went further and catalogued an L-prefix example, case number L962520, as circa 1989, which would put it years after caliber 1570 left production and after every other account closes the reference. The L-serial watch is the outlier in the record and no second late example has surfaced to support it.

==Movement notes==

Three calibers appear in documented 1002s. Caliber 1530 turns up on the earliest examples: Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel 1530, movement number D675858, in a 1002 sold in September 1962, and a matching 1530 in a [[Reference:1003|1003]] carrying a chronometer certificate dated December 1960. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance does not list the 1002 against the 1530, giving it only to the 5500 family, so the two Bonhams lots stand against the published table rather than beside it.

Caliber 1560 is the movement of the reference's first decade, a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels beating at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. The earliest examples run the butterfly rotor. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 and lifts the rate to 19,800 vph with a power reserve near 48 hours; the architecture is otherwise unchanged. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972, which splits late 1002s from everything before. Chronometer certification is the reason the dial carries the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified line, and it is what separates the 1002 from the Air-King running on the same case. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] holds the full lineage.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black gloss dial with applied brushed gilt batons on an 18k gold 1002, circa 1968, on its 7205 gold rivet bracelet]]
[[File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands in a 34mm case catalogued as a 1002; unsold at Bonhams in 2020 and again in 2021]]

No 4-digit Oyster Perpetual carries as many documented dials as the 1002, which follows from the length of the run and the number of markets it was sold into. The pattern across the record is straightforward: steel cases take silvered, white, grey and blue dials, gold cases take champagne, gilt and gloss black, and the special dials are corporate, retailer or regional commissions rather than factory catalogue options.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! dial
! case
! documented example
|-
| sunburst silvered, gilt baton markers
| steel
| Bonhams March 2024 lot 27, caliber 1530, purchased September 1962
|-
| sunburst silvered, applied gilt batons
| steel
| Bonhams New York July 2021 lot 87, case 1,750,342, c.1967
|-
| sunburst grey, applied polished batons
| steel
| Bonhams London September 2019 lot 164, c.1964
|-
| silvered, applied hour markers
| steel
| Sotheby's New York June 2020 lot 213, case 1,678,569, c.1968
|-
| silvered "sigma", applied white-gold indexes
| steel
| Tajan Paris July 2020 lot 60, case 2,981,934, c.1972
|-
| blue
| steel
| Antiquorum New York April 2015 lot 213, case 2,668,283, made 1970
|-
| white, applied batons
| steel
| Sotheby's Hong Kong November 2020 lot 114, case L962520
|-
| white, painted Roman numerals
| steel
| Aguttes Paris November 2014 lot 146, case 7,459,438, c.1970; Artcurial Paris December 2014 lot 577, case 8,024,591, c.1983
|-
| black, 3-6-9 markers and Mercedes hands
| steel
| Bonhams London February 2021 lot 41, caseback stamped II.62
|-
| black gloss, applied brushed gilt batons
| 18k yellow gold
| Bonhams Paris November 2021 lot 27, case 2,044,863, c.1968
|-
| champagne
| 18k yellow gold
| Sotheby's Geneva June 2020 lot 262, retailed by Astrua, c.1969
|-
| gilt, applied baton indexes
| 18k pink gold
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo May 2021 lot 79, case 487,864
|-
| blue
| 14k yellow gold
| Antiquorum Hong Kong October 2019 lot 318, ref 1002/1005, c.1977–78
|-
| silvered, Arabic owner's signature
| steel
| Christie's Dubai October 2021 lot 62, c.1967
|-
| silvered, Coca-Cola 25 Years Service
| 14k yellow gold
| Christie's Dubai December 2019 lot 6, ref 1002/1005, c.1966
|}

Two entries deserve a caution. The black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands is an Explorer configuration in a 34mm case, and Bonhams offered the watch twice, in November 2020 and February 2021, without selling it either time; a genuine factory Explorer-dial 1002 has not been established, and one unsold lot is a lead rather than a variant. The Antiquorum sale of a loose so-called Zephyr dial catalogued for ref 1002/1008 shows the dial existed for this case group, but no complete Zephyr-dial 1002 has appeared at a major house.

Refinishing is the default assumption on anything unusual. Custom-coloured dials circulate on the whole 100x group, and a colour that appears on no other documented example is more likely a repaint than a discovery.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet]]

The case is a three-body Oyster in a tonneau profile, brushed and polished, 34mm across the bezel and around 12mm thick, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock screw-down crown and drilled 19mm lugs. Catalogue measurements wander: houses have given the same case as 33mm, 33.5mm, 34mm, 35mm and, in one Antiquorum lot, 35.5mm. The 34mm figure is the one that agrees with the bulk of the record and with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] that shares the tooling.

The bezel is a plain polished band, fixed, with no timing scale and no engine-turning. On gold and two-tone examples it is gold and slightly wider in appearance, and Gros Delettrez catalogued a steel 1002 with a gold bezel in 1966, so the two-tone configuration is documented despite the reference being usually described as steel-only. Case material otherwise spreads further than the group's reputation suggests: stainless steel is the volume production, 14k and 18k yellow gold are both common, 18k pink gold appears from 1959, and the British market took 9-carat cases that Bonhams catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8.

Two numbers identify the watch and they do not have to match. The reference engraved between the lugs names the bezel variant; the number stamped inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling. Across the documented lots, steel cases carry 1002 inside and gold cases carry 1005, which is why Sotheby's found a 1005 stamp inside a 14k gold watch it catalogued as a 1002 and why Rolex's own paired designations read 1002/1005, 1002/1008, 1003/1002 and 1005/1035. A Roman-quarter date code sits alongside the stamp and should agree with the serial band.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery through the 1960s was the 7205 rivet Oyster in 19mm with 57 end links and a signed folding clasp. From the late 1960s the folded-link 78350 on 557 end links takes over, and Christie's documented the changeover on one watch directly: a 1967 example that left the factory on a 7205, came to auction on a 78350 stamped 19, and carried a Rolex invoice dated 28 March 1989 recording the bracelet replacement and an overhaul. Jubilee bracelets are original on plenty of examples, in steel and in gold, and gold watches also went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and nothing else. Sixty years of servicing has separated most 1002 heads from what they left on, and a later clasp stamp under an earlier case is ordinary wear history. One Bonhams lot carries a caseback stamped II.62 under a clasp stamped 1 64, which is exactly the kind of small mismatch that is normal rather than suspicious. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Al-Sabah dial===
[[File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|thumb|right|300px|The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line]]

Christie's sold a steel 1002 in Dubai in October 2021 carrying the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed in black across the lower dial, under the applied markers and above the chronometer line. The watch dates to about 1967, runs caliber 1570 and came with product literature, its certificate of guarantee, the COSC certificate for its original movement, the presentation box, a hang tag and the 1989 Rolex service invoice. It is the strongest 1002 result located and the clearest documented example of the Gulf-market personalised dials that Rolex supplied through the 1960s. Antiquorum sold a second Arabic-dial steel 1002, case number 1,678,614, in Hong Kong in 2017.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

Coca-Cola gave gold Oyster Perpetuals to employees marking twenty-five years of service, and the programme ran across the whole 100x group rather than one reference. On the 1002 the configuration is a 14k yellow gold case under the paired designation 1002/1005, a silvered dial printed with the Coca-Cola script and the 25 Years Service line, and a caseback engraved with the recipient's name. Christie's Dubai sold one in December 2019 engraved "L. Penasse, April 21, 1966" with its guarantee, a bulletin de marche dated 30 June 1966 and its box; Sotheby's Geneva had sold the same watch, case number 1,354,811, five years earlier. The [[Reference:1003|1003]] and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] carry their own versions of the same award.

===American Heritage===

Christie's catalogued a steel 1002, case number 2,818,213, circa 1971, with a silvered brushed dial carrying an American Heritage logo and a "$3000" designation, the caseback stamped III.71 inside. The dollar figure is a sales-award threshold rather than a price, and the watch is the clearest documented corporate-award 1002 outside the Coca-Cola group.

===Retailer signatures===

Astrua, the Turin retailer, signed a champagne-dial 18k gold 1002 that Sotheby's sold in Geneva in June 2020 with its Rolex guarantee and COSC certificate. Retailer-signed 100x dials are more often found on the gold [[Reference:1007|1007]], where Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino examples are documented, and the 1002's retailer branch is thinner than its production volume would suggest.

===Air-King dials in 1002 cases===
[[File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|thumb|right|250px|An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976]]

Bonhams catalogued a 1976 steel watch as "Model: Air-King, Reference: 1002", silvered dial, Jubilee bracelet, and sold it for more than most chronometer-dial 1002s of the same year. These are Air-King watches in the shared case rather than 1002s with the wrong dial, and the [[Reference:5500|5500]] entry covers the case-sharing in full. The practical consequence for a buyer is that a 1002 stamp inside a caseback proves nothing about what is on the dial.

==Auction record==

The 1002 trades in the low thousands as a rule, often without reserve and usually in general watch sales rather than dedicated vintage Rolex auctions. Condition and completeness move the number more than metal does: a steel example with its box, guarantee and chronometer certificate beats a bare gold one often enough to be a pattern. Above that band sit the dials that carry a story. The Al-Sabah watch, the Coca-Cola awards and the gold blue-dial examples reach five figures, and the two strongest results on record are both dials rather than cases.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Oct 2021
| Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 62
| steel, silver dial signed by Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah, cal 1570, c.1967
| USD 17,500 (est. USD 10,000–15,000)
|-
| Oct 2019
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 318
| 14k yellow gold, blue dial, ref 1002/1005, case 5,218,806, c.1977–78
| HKD 68,750 (est. HKD 45,000–65,000)
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 939
| 9k yellow gold, ref 1002/8, case 1,124,624, c.1965
| HKD 51,000
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's New York, Fine Watches, lot 137
| 14k yellow gold, silvered dial, gold Jubilee, case 736,275, c.1961
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 5,000–7,000)
|-
| Nov 2021
| Bonhams Paris, lot 27
| 18k gold, black gloss dial, 7205 gold rivet bracelet, case 2,044,863, c.1968
| EUR 6,375
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's Hong Kong, Fine Watches, lot 8044
| steel, silvered dial, cal 1570, case 2,190,998, c.1970
| HKD 27,720 (est. HKD 20,000–40,000)
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Watches, lot 2013
| steel, Air-King dial, Jubilee bracelet, case 4,710,813, c.1976
| USD 3,328
|-
| May 2021
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 79
| 18k pink gold, gilt dial, cal 1560 butterfly rotor, case 487,864
| EUR 3,900 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Mar 2024
| Bonhams, Watches Online, lot 27
| steel, cal 1530, sunburst silvered dial, full set, purchased September 1962
| USD 2,816
|-
| Jul 2021
| Bonhams New York, Watches Online, lot 87
| steel, sunburst silvered dial, cal 1570, case 1,750,342, c.1967
| USD 1,785
|-
| Feb 2021
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 41
| steel, black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands, caseback II.62
| not sold (est. EUR 4,000–6,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20177.62&LotNumber=62 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Dubai Edit Lot 62 — Rolex ref 1002 with the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah", Christie's, 2021-10-27]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993056 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 266 — Rolex ref 1002 made for American Heritage", Christie's, 2016-05-16]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 127 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola", Sotheby's, 2014-11-11
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Fine Watches Lot 137 — Rolex ref 1002 yellow gold circa 1961", Sotheby's, 2021-03-19
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Fine Watches Lot 8044 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1970", Sotheby's, 2021-03-04
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Important Watches Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1968", Sotheby's, 2020-06-24
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 262 — Rolex ref 1002 retailed by Astrua", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Watches Weekly Lot 114 — Rolex ref 1002 steel white dial", Sotheby's, 2020-11-18
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 318 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Lot 293 — Rolex "Zephir" dial for ref 1002/1008", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 86 — Rolex ref 1002 Arabic dial", Antiquorum, 2017-03-18
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2015-04-15
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 939 — Rolex ref 1002/8 9k yellow gold circa 1965", Bonhams, 2022-12-01
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/27376/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Bijoux, Montres & Maroquinerie Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold black gloss dial", Bonhams, 2021-11-25]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/30130/lot/27/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29501/lot/2013/ Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Watches Lot 2013 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Air-King, circa 1976", Bonhams, 2024-09-13]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26682/lot/41/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 41 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Explorer", Bonhams, 2021-02-23]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/25397/lot/164/ Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 164 — Rolex ref 1002 sunburst grey dial", Bonhams, 2019-09-19]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 79 — Rolex ref 1002 pink gold", Artcurial, 2021-05-20
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Jewellery & Watches Lot 133 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold, case 487864", Artcurial, 2016-04-12
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Fine Watches Lot 577 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial circa 1983", Artcurial, 2014-12-10
* Tajan, "Tajan Paris Watches Lot 60 — Rolex ref 1002 sigma dial circa 1972", Tajan, 2020-07-22
* Gros Delettrez, "Gros Delettrez Paris Montres & Horlogerie Lot 13 — Rolex ref 1002 steel with gold bezel", Gros Delettrez, 2015-11-13
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/26924/lot/87/ Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Watches Online Lot 87 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1967", Bonhams, 2021-07-28]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6146224 Christie's, "Christie's Hong Kong Important Watches and Private Collections Lot 2204 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1964", Christie's, 2018-05-28]
* Aguttes, "Aguttes Paris Horlogerie Lot 146 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial", Aguttes, 2014-11-07
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1002/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1002 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:6429

2026-08-14T03:48:06Z

Admin: Major research upgrade: 7 verified Christie's auction lots (was single-source Hodinkee), real caliber 1225, corrected production window 1967-1969, new Auction record section, new hero image, consistent image placement per style guide

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6429 Commando}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 6429 Commando — Abercrombie & Fitch's $100 Rolex, 1969 | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex 6429 Commando, 1967–1969 — a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster on caliber 1225, sold through Abercrombie & Fitch as the least expensive Rolex Oyster of its day. A parallel "No Commando" dial went to U.S. military base exchanges on the ROW export stamp.
|keywords=Rolex, 6429, Commando, Abercrombie and Fitch, Explorer-adjacent, vintage Rolex, caliber 1225
|image=Ref 6429 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] -> '''6429'''

[[File:Ref 6429 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial|Rolex 6429 Commando, case 2'075'578, Christie's Geneva 2008 — 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster on the period Oyster bracelet]]

The 6429 Commando is a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster that Rolex sold through Abercrombie & Fitch in the late 1960s, reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day at retail. The gilt-print "COMMANDO" text sits below "ROLEX OYSTER" on a black dial with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers and squared-off baton hands in place of the Mercedes hand the contemporary Explorer wore. Caliber 1225 runs inside, and documented examples cluster tightly between 1967 and 1969.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6429
|-
| family
| Explorer-adjacent (vintage / historical bucket)
|-
| common name
| "the Commando," "the Abercrombie Rolex"
|-
| production
| 1967–1969 per case numbers on documented examples; one Christie's lot essay reads 1972, an outlier discussed below
|-
| case
| 34mm (recorded 34mm to 35mm across catalogued examples), stainless steel, tonneau-shaped water-resistant-type Oyster case, screw-down back and crown
|-
| movement
| manual-wind caliber 1225, nickel-finished lever movement, 17 jewels, mono-metallic balance, sweep centre seconds
|-
| dial
| black, gilt-print "ROLEX OYSTER" and "COMMANDO" text, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers, "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation
|-
| hands
| squared-off baton hour and minute hands, in place of the Mercedes hand used on the contemporary Explorer
|-
| retail channel
| Abercrombie & Fitch (civilian); U.S. military base exchanges worldwide (the "No Commando" dial variant)
|-
| export marking
| ROW (Rest of World) export stamp documented on the movement of a US-market example (Christie's)
|-
| price at retail
| not much more than USD 100 — reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day, corroborated independently by Hodinkee and two separate Christie's lot essays
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 6429 sits at the edge of the Explorer family rather than inside it. Hodinkee's Reference Points survey groups the 6429 with the Space-Dweller and the 1016 as Explorer-adjacent curiosities from the same period — watches built on Rolex's contemporary steel-sport case and dial vocabulary but sold under a different name, through a different channel, or into a different market than the mainline Explorer. Where the Space-Dweller keeps the 1016's case and movement and swaps only the dial text, the 6429 is a smaller, cheaper, manual-wind watch aimed at a retail partner rather than at the Explorer's expedition-tool positioning.

Abercrombie & Fitch's mid-century Swiss-watch retailing is better known for Heuer, whose A&F-branded chronographs are a recognized collecting category of their own. Rolex's participation in the same channel is the less-told half of that story, and the Commando is the watch that tells it.

== Production outline ==

Seven Commando-dial examples have surfaced at Christie's, with case numbers running 2'075'474 to 2'079'012 and catalogued dates of "circa 1967," "circa 1969," or "manufactured in 1969." A related plain-dial "No Commando" example, catalogued separately, carries a ROW (Rest of World) export stamp on its movement, consistent with a US-market watch supplied through military exchanges rather than Abercrombie & Fitch's civilian counter. Taken together, the documented run sits inside a narrow 1967–1969 window with no evidence of production before or after it.

One exception complicates that reading. A 2013 Christie's Hong Kong lot essay (case 2'078'961) describes the Commando as "released in 1972 only for the United States market," even though the same lot's own case number is dated "circa 1969" elsewhere on the same listing, and the essay does not itself explain the discrepancy. A separate mechanism for that kind of error is documented elsewhere in the record: a 2008 Christie's Geneva example (case 2'075'578) carries a Gay Frères bracelet clasp stamped "7-72" — a July 1972 bracelet date, not a case date — while a 2009 example (case 2'079'012) carries a clasp reading "2.69," which does match its case's 1969 dating. A clasp code dates the bracelet it is stamped on, not the watch it is fitted to, so a later service bracelet is enough to put a 1972 mark somewhere on an otherwise 1960s watch. Whether that is specifically what happened on the Hong Kong lot is not stated in its own essay; this article follows the case-number evidence across all seven documented examples and treats 1967–1969 as the production window, recording the 1972 reading as a documented outlier rather than silently dropping it.

No total production figure has been published by Rolex or estimated in the auction literature. Every source describing the 6429 calls it rare — Christie's cataloguing language runs from "extremely rare" to "an exceedingly small series" — consistent with a short run sold through a narrow retail channel rather than the general Oyster catalogue.

== Movement notes ==

Caliber 1225 is a manual-wind, nickel-finished lever movement: 17 jewels, a mono-metallic balance, and sweep centre seconds rather than the subsidiary register some contemporary Rolex manual calibers still carried. Christie's cataloguing is consistent across every documented example — no automatic-movement 6429 has been verified. One Hong Kong lot's headline text read "AUTOMATIC," but its own lot essay described the same watch's movement as "Cal. 1225 mechanical lever movement" — a templating inconsistency in Christie's own listing, not a second movement generation.

The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] page holds the wider caliber lineage; caliber 1225's specific placement within Rolex's 1960s manual-wind hierarchy has not been located in the sources used here.

== Dial map ==

=== "COMMANDO" gilt dial (Abercrombie & Fitch channel) ===

[[File:Ref 6429 commando-dial-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6429 Commando dial detail|Dial detail: gilt COMMANDO text, 3-6-9 numerals, SWISS-T<25 tritium marking]]

Black dial, gilt-print "ROLEX" over "OYSTER" above the center, "COMMANDO" in gilt script beneath it, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals with applied stick markers at the remaining hours, and a "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation at six. Squared-off baton hands rather than the Explorer's Mercedes hand. This is the civilian configuration sold through Abercrombie & Fitch, and the configuration documented on all seven Christie's Commando-dial lots.

=== "No Commando" plain dial (military-channel) ===

[[File:Ref 6429 no-commando.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6429 No Commando variant|The "No Commando" variant — plain ROLEX OYSTER dial, sold through U.S. military base exchanges]]
[[File:Ref 6429 no-commando-dial-detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6429 No Commando dial detail|Dial detail showing the squared-off baton hands used in place of the Mercedes hand]]

The same dial layout with the "COMMANDO" line dropped — the dial reads simply "ROLEX OYSTER." Rolex sold this plainer version through U.S. military base exchanges concurrently with Abercrombie & Fitch's civilian Commando. Hodinkee's account frames the missing text as giving the watch "a bit more of a stealthy appearance"; Christie's cataloguing of a documented example independently confirms the military-exchange channel and adds the ROW export stamp as a physical marker of the US-market run.

== Case, bezel, crystal, and crown ==

The case is 34mm stainless steel — recorded at 34mm on some catalogued examples, 34.5mm and 35mm on others, a normal spread for period caliper measurement on a tonneau-shaped case rather than distinct case sizes — in Rolex's tonneau-shaped water-resistant-type construction: screw-down caseback, screw-down crown, no bezel insert or rotating element. The watch is a plain time-only Oyster case, not a tool-watch case in the Explorer or Submariner sense.

== Bracelets, end links, and clasps ==

Documented examples ship on the stainless steel Rolex Oyster link bracelet with a folding deployant clasp. One catalogued clasp carries the "GF" stamp for Gay Frères, Rolex's principal bracelet supplier through this period, alongside a "7-72" quarterly date code — a July 1972 bracelet, several years after that watch's own 1969 case dating. A second documented clasp reads "2.69," which does match its case's 1969 dating. As with any Rolex bracelet, the clasp code dates the bracelet, not the watch head; the two documented codes together show both a matching and a mismatched pairing on this reference. One documented example is recorded on a tan calf leather NATO strap rather than its original bracelet, a later fitment rather than a factory option.

== Authentication ==

Hodinkee flags the 6429 as commonly faked, specifically warning that reproduction "Commando" dials turn up inside both 6426 and 6429 cases. The 6426 is a separate, unrelated Oyster Precision reference — its appearance here is only as a documented host case for faked Commando dials, not as a second genuine Commando reference. A 6429 offered with a Commando dial needs the dial text, the case reference, and the movement checked against each other before the "Commando" premium is paid; a plain "No Commando" dial in a 6429 case is not, by itself, evidence of anything wrong.

The movement gives a second check. Caliber 1225 should be a manual-wind, nickel-finished lever movement with 17 jewels; anything else inside a 6429 case is a service replacement or a mismatch. A ROW export stamp on the movement is documented on at least one US-market example and is consistent with, though not required for, a watch sold through the military-exchange channel. One documented military-issued example carries a caseback engraved "U.S.M.C. KW-95 117," a Marine Corps property marking rather than a factory feature — a strong provenance signal on the specific watch it appears on, not a universal caseback pattern for the reference.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1016|1016 Explorer]] — the mainline Explorer this generation of Rolex's steel-sport catalogue is built around.
* [[Reference:explorer|Explorer family index]]

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]]
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]]

== Auction record ==

Christie's is the only major house with a documented run of 6429 sales — seven Commando-dial lots and one plain "No Commando" lot across 2008–2016. No Sotheby's, Phillips, Bonhams, or Antiquorum lot for the reference was located.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! case / lot
! configuration
! estimate
! result
|-
| 12 May 2008
| Christie's Geneva, lot 215
| case 2'075'578
| Commando, manufactured 1969; Gay Frères clasp stamped 7-72 (bracelet date, not case date)
| CHF 4,000–6,000
| CHF 22,500
|-
| 11 May 2009
| Christie's (sale 1366), lot 281
| case 2'079'012
| Commando, manufactured 1969, 35mm diam.; clasp stamped 2.69, consistent with the case date
| CHF 4,000–6,000
| CHF 8,750
|-
| 15 Dec 2009
| Christie's (sale 2212), lot 322
| case 2'078'967
| Commando, circa 1969
| USD 4,000–6,000
| USD 10,625
|-
| 14 Dec 2010
| Christie's (sale 2366), lot 156
| case 2'075'474
| Commando, circa 1967
| USD 5,000–7,000
| USD 25,000
|-
| 14 Dec 2012
| Christie's (sale 2610), lot 292
| case 2'075'566
| Commando, circa 1967
| USD 5,000–7,000
| USD 21,250
|-
| 29 May 2013
| Christie's Hong Kong (sale 3219), lot 2977
| case 2'078'961
| Commando, circa 1969; caseback engraved U.S.M.C. KW-95 117
| HKD 74,000–80,000
| HKD 100,000
|-
| 7 Dec 2016
| Christie's Watches Online: Time for the Holidays, lot 136
| unstated, circa 1969
| "No Commando" plain dial, ROW export stamp, on later tan calf leather NATO strap
| USD 8,000–12,000
| USD 8,125
|}

Every Commando-dial lot sold well above its estimate — 3 to 4 times over at the high end — while the single "No Commando" lot cleared close to its estimate midpoint. The sample is small and Christie's-only, so it reads as a consistent signal rather than a statistically deep market: collectors chasing the "COMMANDO" dial text pay a real premium over estimate, and the plain military-channel dial has not shown the same pull.

== Sources ==

* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Jon Bues, "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I", Hodinkee, 2022]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5065386 Christie's, "Rolex. An extremely rare stainless steel water-resistant wristwatch with sweep centre seconds and bracelet, ref. 6429, case no. 2'075'578", Geneva, 12 May 2008, lot 215]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5196143 Christie's, "Rolex. An extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with sweep centre seconds and bracelet, ref. 6429, case no. 2'079'012", sale 1366, 11 May 2009, lot 281]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5282060 Christie's, "Rolex. A rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, ref. 6429, case no. 2078967", sale 2212, 15 December 2009, lot 322]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5395155 Christie's, "Rolex. A rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet, ref. 6429, case no. 2075474", sale 2366, 14 December 2010, lot 156]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5644082 Christie's, "Rolex. A rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds and bracelet, ref. 6429, case no. 2'075'566", sale 2610, 14 December 2012, lot 292]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5690964 Christie's, "Rolex. A rare stainless steel automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds and bracelet, ref. 6429, case no. 2'078'961", Hong Kong, sale 3219, 29 May 2013, lot 2977]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=14464.136&LotNumber=136 Christie's, "Rolex Commando-style ref. 6429", Watches Online: Time for the Holidays, 7 December 2016, lot 136]

[[Category:Explorer]]
[[Category:References]]

File:Ref 6429 hero.webp

2026-08-14T03:47:55Z

Admin: Admin uploaded a new version of File:Ref 6429 hero.webp

Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969, black gilt-print dial, steel Oyster case and bracelet. Source: Hodinkee, "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I" (Jon Bues, 2022).

Reference:1003

2026-08-14T03:39:23Z

Admin: Recover real URL for verified Christie's citation (shared with 1002)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1003 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 — Engine-Turned Bezel & Coca-Cola Dials | BezelBase
|description=The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the late 1970s, in steel, 14k and 18k gold and British 9-carat cases. Its auction record is dominated by Coca-Cola twenty-five-year service dials, and the strongest steel result is the Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse' Air-King.
|keywords=Rolex 1003, Oyster Perpetual, engine-turned bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, 34mm, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Minnie Mouse Air-King, 9K gold Glasgow import, 1003/1005
|image=Ref 1003 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1003 in steel with an engine-turned bezel and a spotted cream dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:52:00Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:46Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1003'''

The 1003 is the engine-turned 4-digit Oyster Perpetual, and the one the catalogues struggle to describe. Rolex's own term for the bezel is engine-turned; Sotheby's has called it milled, Bonhams has called it milled and ridged in the same decade, and Antiquorum, on the examples that matter most, calls it a graduated engine-turned bezel with hour divisions. Underneath the argument is the same watch as the smooth [[Reference:1002|1002]]: 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal, chronometer-rated no-date automatic, caliber 1560 and then caliber 1570.

Its documented population splits along an unusual line. Steel 1003s are ordinary and trade like ordinary vintage Rolex. The gold ones are mostly not catalogue watches at all: they are twenty-five-year service awards, and Coca-Cola commissioned enough of them that the reference's auction record is dominated by a single corporate gift programme. The best 1003 result on file is a Coca-Cola dial that went for roughly five times its high estimate.

[[File:Ref 1003 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1003, circa 1975, with the engine-turned bezel and a heavily spotted cream dial]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1003
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the late 1970s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 9k and 9ct gold for the British market
|-
| bezel
| engine-turned, graduated with hour divisions on documented gold examples
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| rivet Oyster, later folded Oyster, gold fold-over bracelets, leather
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold
|-
| paired designations
| catalogued as 1003/1002 and 1003/1005
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

Four reference numbers in this family carry engine-turned bezels, and the published literature does not draw a clean line between the 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008. What separates them in practice is the number engraved between the lugs, not a feature anyone can call from a photograph. The 1003 is the most frequently catalogued of the four and the one that turns up in gold most often.

Against the rest of the group the position is straightforward. The [[Reference:1002|1002]] is the same watch with a plain surround and sold in far greater numbers; the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the gold fluted bezel; the [[Reference:1007|1007]] is the closest sibling of all and the one with the widest documented dial spread. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] scales the same design up to 36mm on 20mm lugs. The 1003 belongs to a middle tier of the line: dressier than the plain 1002, less formal than the fluted 1005, and available in steel or gold at either end of the range.

==Production outline==

Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959 and gives the practical start of the run. The earliest documented 1003s sit right on it: case number 512,833, catalogued circa 1960, and case number 573,835, whose chronometer certificate is dated 22 December 1960. A Glasgow import mark for 1961 dates a 9K gold example, and a 9ct gold watch with its original 1966 receipt dates itself.

The run continues through case number 531,734 in 1966, 1,197,501 in 1964, 3,044,042 in 1972, 3,960,865 around 1975 and 5,426,177 in 1977. The Antiquorum lot that closes the record describes a watch produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, which is the latest documented delivery. That places the reference's end alongside the rest of the 4-digit no-date group rather than with the [[Reference:1002|1002]], which carried on into the 1980s.

No production figure has been published, and the shape of the surviving population is uneven: steel examples appear regularly in general watch sales, while gold examples concentrate in the service-award group.

==Movement notes==

Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel caliber 1530, movement number 98643, in a 1003 accompanied by a chronometer certificate dated December 1960; the same house recorded a 1530 in a [[Reference:1002|1002]] bought in 1962. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance lists the 1530 only against the 5500 family and gives the 1003 to calibers 1560 and 1570, so the earliest movement in this reference is documented by catalogue text rather than by the published table.

Caliber 1560 runs from the start to about 1965. It is a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with an overcoil hairspring, a shock-protected free-sprung balance and Microstella regulating screws; the earliest examples carry the butterfly rotor, which Bonhams noted explicitly on a 1960 gold watch. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 at 19,800 vph, and Antiquorum's description of a 1972 example records the oeil-de-perdrix decoration and the self-compensating Breguet balance spring. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the lineage in full.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1003 air king dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Blue Air-King dial in a steel case catalogued as ref 1003/1002, made 1964]]

Silvered is the default and covers most of the record: sunburst and satiné finishes on steel and gold alike, with applied baton or dart markers, luminous five-minute dots and a printed chronometer line. A cream or beige tone appears on aged gold examples, and Artcurial's 1966 gold watch is described as patinated cream. Sotheby's 2021 steel example photographs as a heavily spotted cream dial with rose-toned markers, the kind of tropical change that reads as condition rather than as a factory variant.

Beyond the silvered default the record splits three ways. The corporate service dials are the largest branch and are covered below. Air-King dials turn up in 1003 cases, in silver and in blue, which follows from the case-middle sharing with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] and is why Antiquorum catalogued one steel watch as ref 1003/1002 with an Air-King dial. British-market gold examples carry silvered dials with applied gilt dart markers and Arabic numerals at the quarters, a configuration Bonhams documented on both the 1961 Glasgow watch and the 1960 New York one.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1003 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|9K gold British-market 1003 with a Glasgow import mark for 1961, silvered dial with gilt dart markers and Arabic quarters]]

The case is the shared 34mm three-body Oyster, brushed and polished in a tonneau profile, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock crown, drilled 19mm lugs and an acrylic crystal. Antiquorum's two most detailed lots give the case as 34mm across and 12mm thick, which is the measurement to trust; house figures elsewhere range from 33mm to 35mm on the same case.

The bezel is the reference's identity and the thing catalogue text handles worst. Antiquorum's descriptions are the most useful, because they specify what the milling does: an engine-turned bezel with hour divisions, described on one lot as graduated. That is a bezel whose cut segments are indexed to the hours rather than a continuous decorative knurl, and it is the detail that separates a 1003 from a generic milled surround. Bonhams has called the same bezel milled, and Artcurial described a 1966 example as semi engine-turned, which suggests the pattern was not uniform across the run.

Case material spreads wider than the steel-and-gold summary implies. Stainless steel is the volume production and 14k and 18k yellow gold both appear. The British market took 9-carat cases, and Bonhams has catalogued 1003s described as 9K and as 9ct gold in three separate sales, one of them hallmarked with a Glasgow import mark for 1961. As on the rest of the family, the reference between the lugs names the bezel and the stamp inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling, which is why the paired forms 1003/1002 and 1003/1005 recur in catalogue text.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery follows the family pattern: riveted Oyster bracelets through the 1960s, folded links afterwards. Antiquorum's 1964 Air-King-dial example came on a steel riveted Rolex bracelet, which is period-correct for the case number. Gold watches went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle, and one British 9ct example is documented on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet with a locking clasp. Later examples come to auction on leather more often than on their original metal, and several catalogued 1003s carry associated straps and buckles rather than factory fitments.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and not the head. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Coca-Cola service awards===
[[File:Ref 1003 coca cola.webp|thumb|right|250px|The 25 Years of Service Coca-Cola dial on a yellow gold ref 1003/1005, circa 1977]]

Coca-Cola marked twenty-five years of employee service with a gold Oyster Perpetual, and the 1003 is the reference the programme used most visibly. The configuration is consistent: a gold case under the paired designation 1003/1005 or 1003/1002, a satiné or matte silver dial carrying the Coca-Cola script logo and a 25 Years Service dedication, applied gold baton indexes with tritium dots, and gold baton hands. Antiquorum sold an 18k example from the Mondani collection in 2006, case number 5,426,177, made in 1977; Sotheby's Geneva sold the same watch in 2014. A second, case number 3,044,042, made in 1972, passed through Antiquorum in 2007. A third, produced in the late 1970s and sold in January 1980, came up in New York in 2004.

The programme was not confined to this reference. Christie's Dubai and Sotheby's Geneva both catalogued a 14k gold [[Reference:1002|1002]] on the same award, Artcurial sold a 14k [[Reference:1005|1005]] with the caseback engraved for its recipient, and Heritage catalogued a 14k 1005 with a hand-painted Coca-Cola inscription. What distinguishes the 1003 group is the strength of the results, which sit an order of magnitude above ordinary examples of the reference.

===The Sotheby's 'Minnie Mouse'===
[[File:Ref 1003 minnie mouse.webp|thumb|right|250px|The printed character sits between the centre and six, under Air-King and PRECISION text]]

Sotheby's sold a steel watch in New York in October 2020 catalogued as "Reference 1003 Air-King 'Minnie Mouse'". The dial is silvered, carries Air-King and PRECISION text, and has a printed Minnie Mouse figure standing between the centre and six o'clock. Case number 3,011,703 dates it to about 1972; the inner caseback is stamped 1002 and the movement is caliber 1570. Character dials were made for the Air-King line rather than for the chronometer references, so what the lot documents is a character-dial Air-King in a 1003-engraved case rather than a factory 1003 variant. It is the strongest steel result on the reference, above its high estimate.

===The Diesel Power Company dial===

Artcurial sold a 14k yellow gold 1003 in Monte-Carlo in July 2011, case number 531,734, circa 1966, with a patinated cream dial carrying a Diesel Power Company service logo. The configuration parallels the Coca-Cola awards without belonging to them, and it establishes that Rolex supplied service dials on this reference to more than one corporate client.

===British-market gold cases===

Bonhams has catalogued three 1003s in 9-carat gold, a case material Rolex used for the British market where import duty made 18-carat cases expensive. One carries a Glasgow import mark for 1961 with caliber 1560; another, case number 512,833, is a 1960 New York lot with the butterfly rotor; a third is a 1966 watch on a fitted 9ct gold bracelet, sold with its original receipt. Hallmarks on these cases date the import rather than the movement, and the assay office letter is the practical dating tool where the case number has worn away.

==Auction record==

Steel 1003s trade in the low four figures, and the gold ones split sharply by dial. An unmarked gold 1003 sits in the same band as a good steel example; a Coca-Cola service dial multiplies it. Sotheby's Geneva sold one for roughly five times its high estimate in 2014, and the same watch had made a strong result at Antiquorum eight years earlier from the Mondani collection, so the premium is not a one-sale accident. The Minnie Mouse Air-King is the strongest steel result and reflects the character-dial market rather than the reference.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| May 2014
| Sotheby's Geneva, Important Watches, lot 216
| yellow gold, "25 Years of Service Coca-Cola" dial, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, c.1977
| CHF 37,500 (est. CHF 6,000–8,000)
|-
| Oct 2007
| Antiquorum Geneva, Important Collectors' Watches, lot 486
| yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 3,044,042, made 1972
| CHF 12,980 (est. CHF 5,000–7,000)
|-
| May 2006
| Antiquorum Geneva, The Mondani Collection, lot 111
| 18k yellow gold Coca-Cola, ref 1003/1005, case 5,426,177, made 1977
| CHF 11,800 (est. CHF 8,000–10,000)
|-
| Oct 2020
| Sotheby's New York, Watches, lot 97
| steel Air-King 'Minnie Mouse', cal 1570, case 3,011,703, c.1972
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 4,000–6,000)
|-
| Jul 2011
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Fine Watches, lot 406
| 14k yellow gold, Diesel Power Company service dial, case 531,734, c.1966
| EUR 4,335 (est. EUR 3,000–3,500)
|-
| Jun 2021
| Sotheby's Geneva, Fine Watches, lot 42
| steel, spotted cream dial, cal 1570, case 3,960,865, c.1975
| CHF 2,142 (est. CHF 1,000–3,000)
|-
| Nov 2017
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 121
| 9K gold, Glasgow import mark for 1961, cal 1560, silvered dial with Arabic quarters
| GBP 2,000
|-
| Nov 2016
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 38
| steel with Air-King dial, ref 1003/1002, case 1,197,501, made 1964, rivet bracelet
| CHF 1,875 (est. CHF 1,000–2,000)
|-
| Dec 2007
| Bonhams New York, Fine Watches and Wristwatches, lot 125
| 9k gold, cal 1560 with butterfly rotor, case 512,833, c.1960
| USD 1,440
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Montres, lot 84
| steel, cal 1530, case 573,835, chronometer certificate dated December 1960
| GBP 960
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1002|Oyster Perpetual 1002]] — 34mm, smooth bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 216 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years of Service", Sotheby's, 2014-05-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva The Mondani Collection Lot 111 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2006-05-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Collectors' Watches Lot 486 — Rolex ref 1003/1005 Coca-Cola 1972", Antiquorum, 2007-10-14
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Collector's Wristwatches Lot 118 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 Coca-Cola", Antiquorum, 2004-03-24
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Lot 97 — Rolex ref 1003 Air-King "Minnie Mouse" circa 1972", Sotheby's, 2020-10-29
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 38 — Rolex ref 1003/1002 with Air-King dial", Antiquorum, 2016-11-13
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Fine Watches Lot 42 — Rolex ref 1003 steel milled bezel circa 1975", Sotheby's, 2021-06-24
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Montres Lot 84 — Rolex ref 1003 caliber 1530, chronometer certificate 1960", Bonhams, 2024-09-19
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 121 — Rolex ref 1003 9K gold, Glasgow import 1961", Bonhams, 2017-11-21
* Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Fine Watches and Wristwatches Lot 125 — Rolex ref 1003 9k gold circa 1960", Bonhams, 2007-12-06
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Knightsbridge Clocks, Watches & Barometers Lot 162 — Rolex ref 1003 9ct gold 1966", Bonhams, 2003-10-07
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Fine Watches Lot 406 — Rolex ref 1003 14k gold with Diesel Power service dial", Artcurial, 2011-07-26
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monaco Vente Horlogerie de collection Lot 286 — Rolex ref 1005 Coca-Cola 25 years service", Artcurial, 2023-07-16
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 54225 — Rolex ref 1005 14k gold Coca-Cola service dial", Heritage Auctions, 2016-10-27
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1003/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1003 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:1002

2026-08-14T03:39:22Z

Admin: Recover real URLs for 4 verified Christie's auction citations

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1002 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 — Smooth Bezel, 34mm, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1002 is the smooth-bezel 4-digit Oyster Perpetual: 34mm, no date, caliber 1530 then 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the 1980s. Steel, 14k and 18k gold, 18k pink gold and British 9-carat cases, plus the Al-Sabah signed dial, Coca-Cola service awards and the American Heritage corporate dial.
|keywords=Rolex 1002, Oyster Perpetual, smooth bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, cal 1530, 34mm, 7205 rivet Oyster, 78350, Air-King 5500 case, Coca-Cola 25 years service, Al-Sabah dial
|image=Ref 1002 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1002 in steel with a smooth polished bezel, silvered dial and Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:51:57Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T22:03:42Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1002'''

The 1002 is the plain-bezel member of the 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual line and the reference the rest of the group is measured against. It shares its 34mm Oyster case, 19mm lugs, screw-down back and crown, acrylic crystal and chronometer-rated automatic with the engine-turned [[Reference:1007|1007]] and the fluted [[Reference:1005|1005]]. What it does differently is nothing at all. The surround is a polished band with no milling and no flutes, and Rolex sold it that way from around 1959 into the 1980s, which makes it the longest-running and the most common of the four.

Its number does more work than its bezel. Rolex stamped 1002 inside the casebacks of steel cases across the family, the Air-King [[Reference:5500|5500]] included, so the mark turns up on watches whose dials and bezels have nothing to do with this reference. Houses have catalogued 1002-cased watches as Air-Kings, as Explorers, and once, on a caliber 620 pink-gold watch that cannot be a 1002 at all, as a Bubbleback. Reading a 1002 starts with understanding that the number identifies a case rather than a watch.

[[File:Ref 1002 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1002 with the plain polished bezel that defines the reference, silvered dial, caliber 1570, circa 1970]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1002
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; 18k pink gold; 9k gold for the British market, catalogued 1002/8; steel with a gold bezel
|-
| bezel
| smooth polished, fixed
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1530 on the earliest examples, then caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| 7205 rivet Oyster on 57 end links, 78350 folded Oyster on 557 end links, Jubilee; gold and two-tone equivalents
|-
| caseback
| screw-down, inside stamped 1002 on steel cases and 1005 on gold, with a Roman-quarter date code
|-
| sibling references
| 1003 / 1006 / 1007 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are one watch offered with a choice of bezel. The 1002 takes the smooth polished surround. The 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008 take engine-turned bezels of varying patterns, and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] takes the fluted bezel, which in this family is always cast in gold. Everything behind the bezel is common property: the 34mm three-body case, the drilled 19mm lugs, the Twinlock crown, the acrylic crystal, the chronometer-rated no-date automatic.

Two neighbours matter more than the siblings. The [[Reference:5500|5500]] Air-King is the same 34mm case fitted with a non-chronometer caliber and Air-King dial text, sold at a lower price; the case-middle tooling is shared, which is why 5500 casebacks from the late 1960s onward carry a 1002 stamp. The [[Reference:1018|1018]] is the 36mm version of the same idea, and its case is the one the Explorer [[Reference:1016|1016]] is built on. The 1002 sits at the volume end of that spread. It was the ordinary Rolex, the one bought as a first good watch and worn for thirty years, and the survival rate reflects it.

==Production outline==

Rolex published no production figure for the 1002 and no dated catalogue page fixes its introduction. Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959, which sets the practical start of the run, and the earliest documented case number sits right on it: 487,864, a pink-gold example Artcurial has catalogued twice, dating it circa 1966 in 2016 and circa 1976 in 2021. Neither date agrees with the serial, and the serial is the better guide.

The middle of the run is densely documented. Bonhams catalogued a caliber 1530 example bought on 3 September 1962 with its receipt, guarantee card and swing tag intact. Case number 1,047,802 is dated by Christie's to circa 1964 and case number 1,354,811 to circa 1966. Case number 1,678,569 came with a Bureaux Suisses chronometer certificate dated 9 February 1968, the tightest date anchor on the reference. Case numbers around 2,190,000 reach 1970, 2,818,213 carries a caseback stamped III.71 inside, and 2,981,934 is catalogued circa 1972.

The end of the run is where the sources part company. Case number 4,710,813 is catalogued circa 1976 and case number 5,218,806 as 1977 to 1978. Artcurial dated case number 8,024,591 to circa 1983. Sotheby's Hong Kong went further and catalogued an L-prefix example, case number L962520, as circa 1989, which would put it years after caliber 1570 left production and after every other account closes the reference. The L-serial watch is the outlier in the record and no second late example has surfaced to support it.

==Movement notes==

Three calibers appear in documented 1002s. Caliber 1530 turns up on the earliest examples: Bonhams catalogued a 26-jewel 1530, movement number D675858, in a 1002 sold in September 1962, and a matching 1530 in a [[Reference:1003|1003]] carrying a chronometer certificate dated December 1960. The Watch-Wiki caliber concordance does not list the 1002 against the 1530, giving it only to the 5500 family, so the two Bonhams lots stand against the published table rather than beside it.

Caliber 1560 is the movement of the reference's first decade, a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels beating at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella screws and a self-compensating Breguet balance spring. The earliest examples run the butterfly rotor. Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 and lifts the rate to 19,800 vph with a power reserve near 48 hours; the architecture is otherwise unchanged. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972, which splits late 1002s from everything before. Chronometer certification is the reason the dial carries the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified line, and it is what separates the 1002 from the Air-King running on the same case. The [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] holds the full lineage.

==Dial map==
[[File:Ref 1002 gold.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black gloss dial with applied brushed gilt batons on an 18k gold 1002, circa 1968, on its 7205 gold rivet bracelet]]
[[File:Ref 1002 explorer dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|Black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands in a 34mm case catalogued as a 1002; unsold at Bonhams in 2020 and again in 2021]]

No 4-digit Oyster Perpetual carries as many documented dials as the 1002, which follows from the length of the run and the number of markets it was sold into. The pattern across the record is straightforward: steel cases take silvered, white, grey and blue dials, gold cases take champagne, gilt and gloss black, and the special dials are corporate, retailer or regional commissions rather than factory catalogue options.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! dial
! case
! documented example
|-
| sunburst silvered, gilt baton markers
| steel
| Bonhams March 2024 lot 27, caliber 1530, purchased September 1962
|-
| sunburst silvered, applied gilt batons
| steel
| Bonhams New York July 2021 lot 87, case 1,750,342, c.1967
|-
| sunburst grey, applied polished batons
| steel
| Bonhams London September 2019 lot 164, c.1964
|-
| silvered, applied hour markers
| steel
| Sotheby's New York June 2020 lot 213, case 1,678,569, c.1968
|-
| silvered "sigma", applied white-gold indexes
| steel
| Tajan Paris July 2020 lot 60, case 2,981,934, c.1972
|-
| blue
| steel
| Antiquorum New York April 2015 lot 213, case 2,668,283, made 1970
|-
| white, applied batons
| steel
| Sotheby's Hong Kong November 2020 lot 114, case L962520
|-
| white, painted Roman numerals
| steel
| Aguttes Paris November 2014 lot 146, case 7,459,438, c.1970; Artcurial Paris December 2014 lot 577, case 8,024,591, c.1983
|-
| black, 3-6-9 markers and Mercedes hands
| steel
| Bonhams London February 2021 lot 41, caseback stamped II.62
|-
| black gloss, applied brushed gilt batons
| 18k yellow gold
| Bonhams Paris November 2021 lot 27, case 2,044,863, c.1968
|-
| champagne
| 18k yellow gold
| Sotheby's Geneva June 2020 lot 262, retailed by Astrua, c.1969
|-
| gilt, applied baton indexes
| 18k pink gold
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo May 2021 lot 79, case 487,864
|-
| blue
| 14k yellow gold
| Antiquorum Hong Kong October 2019 lot 318, ref 1002/1005, c.1977–78
|-
| silvered, Arabic owner's signature
| steel
| Christie's Dubai October 2021 lot 62, c.1967
|-
| silvered, Coca-Cola 25 Years Service
| 14k yellow gold
| Christie's Dubai December 2019 lot 6, ref 1002/1005, c.1966
|}

Two entries deserve a caution. The black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands is an Explorer configuration in a 34mm case, and Bonhams offered the watch twice, in November 2020 and February 2021, without selling it either time; a genuine factory Explorer-dial 1002 has not been established, and one unsold lot is a lead rather than a variant. The Antiquorum sale of a loose so-called Zephyr dial catalogued for ref 1002/1008 shows the dial existed for this case group, but no complete Zephyr-dial 1002 has appeared at a major house.

Refinishing is the default assumption on anything unusual. Custom-coloured dials circulate on the whole 100x group, and a colour that appears on no other documented example is more likely a repaint than a discovery.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==
[[File:Ref 1002 nine carat.webp|thumb|right|250px|British-market 9k gold case catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8, circa 1965, on a 9k gold bracelet]]

The case is a three-body Oyster in a tonneau profile, brushed and polished, 34mm across the bezel and around 12mm thick, with a screw-down caseback and Twinlock screw-down crown and drilled 19mm lugs. Catalogue measurements wander: houses have given the same case as 33mm, 33.5mm, 34mm, 35mm and, in one Antiquorum lot, 35.5mm. The 34mm figure is the one that agrees with the bulk of the record and with the [[Reference:5500|5500]] that shares the tooling.

The bezel is a plain polished band, fixed, with no timing scale and no engine-turning. On gold and two-tone examples it is gold and slightly wider in appearance, and Gros Delettrez catalogued a steel 1002 with a gold bezel in 1966, so the two-tone configuration is documented despite the reference being usually described as steel-only. Case material otherwise spreads further than the group's reputation suggests: stainless steel is the volume production, 14k and 18k yellow gold are both common, 18k pink gold appears from 1959, and the British market took 9-carat cases that Bonhams catalogued under the paired designation 1002/8.

Two numbers identify the watch and they do not have to match. The reference engraved between the lugs names the bezel variant; the number stamped inside the caseback names the case-middle tooling. Across the documented lots, steel cases carry 1002 inside and gold cases carry 1005, which is why Sotheby's found a 1005 stamp inside a 14k gold watch it catalogued as a 1002 and why Rolex's own paired designations read 1002/1005, 1002/1008, 1003/1002 and 1005/1035. A Roman-quarter date code sits alongside the stamp and should agree with the serial band.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

Steel delivery through the 1960s was the 7205 rivet Oyster in 19mm with 57 end links and a signed folding clasp. From the late 1960s the folded-link 78350 on 557 end links takes over, and Christie's documented the changeover on one watch directly: a 1967 example that left the factory on a 7205, came to auction on a 78350 stamped 19, and carried a Rolex invoice dated 28 March 1989 recording the bracelet replacement and an overhaul. Jubilee bracelets are original on plenty of examples, in steel and in gold, and gold watches also went out on gold fold-over bracelets and on leather with a signed buckle.

A clasp date code dates the bracelet and nothing else. Sixty years of servicing has separated most 1002 heads from what they left on, and a later clasp stamp under an earlier case is ordinary wear history. One Bonhams lot carries a caseback stamped II.62 under a clasp stamped 1 64, which is exactly the kind of small mismatch that is normal rather than suspicious. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===The Al-Sabah dial===
[[File:Ref 1002 al-sabah.webp|thumb|right|300px|The signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed below the centre, above the chronometer line]]

Christie's sold a steel 1002 in Dubai in October 2021 carrying the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah printed in black across the lower dial, under the applied markers and above the chronometer line. The watch dates to about 1967, runs caliber 1570 and came with product literature, its certificate of guarantee, the COSC certificate for its original movement, the presentation box, a hang tag and the 1989 Rolex service invoice. It is the strongest 1002 result located and the clearest documented example of the Gulf-market personalised dials that Rolex supplied through the 1960s. Antiquorum sold a second Arabic-dial steel 1002, case number 1,678,614, in Hong Kong in 2017.

===Coca-Cola service awards===

Coca-Cola gave gold Oyster Perpetuals to employees marking twenty-five years of service, and the programme ran across the whole 100x group rather than one reference. On the 1002 the configuration is a 14k yellow gold case under the paired designation 1002/1005, a silvered dial printed with the Coca-Cola script and the 25 Years Service line, and a caseback engraved with the recipient's name. Christie's Dubai sold one in December 2019 engraved "L. Penasse, April 21, 1966" with its guarantee, a bulletin de marche dated 30 June 1966 and its box; Sotheby's Geneva had sold the same watch, case number 1,354,811, five years earlier. The [[Reference:1003|1003]] and the [[Reference:1005|1005]] carry their own versions of the same award.

===American Heritage===

Christie's catalogued a steel 1002, case number 2,818,213, circa 1971, with a silvered brushed dial carrying an American Heritage logo and a "$3000" designation, the caseback stamped III.71 inside. The dollar figure is a sales-award threshold rather than a price, and the watch is the clearest documented corporate-award 1002 outside the Coca-Cola group.

===Retailer signatures===

Astrua, the Turin retailer, signed a champagne-dial 18k gold 1002 that Sotheby's sold in Geneva in June 2020 with its Rolex guarantee and COSC certificate. Retailer-signed 100x dials are more often found on the gold [[Reference:1007|1007]], where Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino examples are documented, and the 1002's retailer branch is thinner than its production volume would suggest.

===Air-King dials in 1002 cases===
[[File:Ref 1002 air king.webp|thumb|right|250px|An Air-King dial in the shared case, catalogued by Bonhams as ref 1002, circa 1976]]

Bonhams catalogued a 1976 steel watch as "Model: Air-King, Reference: 1002", silvered dial, Jubilee bracelet, and sold it for more than most chronometer-dial 1002s of the same year. These are Air-King watches in the shared case rather than 1002s with the wrong dial, and the [[Reference:5500|5500]] entry covers the case-sharing in full. The practical consequence for a buyer is that a 1002 stamp inside a caseback proves nothing about what is on the dial.

==Auction record==

The 1002 trades in the low thousands as a rule, often without reserve and usually in general watch sales rather than dedicated vintage Rolex auctions. Condition and completeness move the number more than metal does: a steel example with its box, guarantee and chronometer certificate beats a bare gold one often enough to be a pattern. Above that band sit the dials that carry a story. The Al-Sabah watch, the Coca-Cola awards and the gold blue-dial examples reach five figures, and the two strongest results on record are both dials rather than cases.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Oct 2021
| Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 62
| steel, silver dial signed by Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah, cal 1570, c.1967
| USD 17,500 (est. USD 10,000–15,000)
|-
| Oct 2019
| Antiquorum Hong Kong, lot 318
| 14k yellow gold, blue dial, ref 1002/1005, case 5,218,806, c.1977–78
| HKD 68,750 (est. HKD 45,000–65,000)
|-
| Dec 2022
| Bonhams Hong Kong, Hong Kong Watches, lot 939
| 9k yellow gold, ref 1002/8, case 1,124,624, c.1965
| HKD 51,000
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's New York, Fine Watches, lot 137
| 14k yellow gold, silvered dial, gold Jubilee, case 736,275, c.1961
| USD 7,560 (est. USD 5,000–7,000)
|-
| Nov 2021
| Bonhams Paris, lot 27
| 18k gold, black gloss dial, 7205 gold rivet bracelet, case 2,044,863, c.1968
| EUR 6,375
|-
| Mar 2021
| Sotheby's Hong Kong, Fine Watches, lot 8044
| steel, silvered dial, cal 1570, case 2,190,998, c.1970
| HKD 27,720 (est. HKD 20,000–40,000)
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Watches, lot 2013
| steel, Air-King dial, Jubilee bracelet, case 4,710,813, c.1976
| USD 3,328
|-
| May 2021
| Artcurial Monte-Carlo, Modern & Vintage Watches Online, lot 79
| 18k pink gold, gilt dial, cal 1560 butterfly rotor, case 487,864
| EUR 3,900 (est. EUR 2,000–3,000)
|-
| Mar 2024
| Bonhams, Watches Online, lot 27
| steel, cal 1530, sunburst silvered dial, full set, purchased September 1962
| USD 2,816
|-
| Jul 2021
| Bonhams New York, Watches Online, lot 87
| steel, sunburst silvered dial, cal 1570, case 1,750,342, c.1967
| USD 1,785
|-
| Feb 2021
| Bonhams London, Watches and Wristwatches, lot 41
| steel, black 3-6-9 dial with Mercedes hands, caseback II.62
| not sold (est. EUR 4,000–6,000)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1003|Oyster Perpetual 1003]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1005|Oyster Perpetual 1005]] — 34mm, fluted gold bezel
* [[Reference:1007|Oyster Perpetual 1007]] — 34mm, engine-turned bezel
* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the same case, non-chronometer
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com/sso?ObjectID=20177.62&LotNumber=62 Christie's, "Christie's Watches Online: The Dubai Edit Lot 62 — Rolex ref 1002 with the signature of Sheikh Abdullah Al-Jaber Al-Sabah", Christie's, 2021-10-27]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-5993056 Christie's, "Christie's Geneva Rare Watches Lot 266 — Rolex ref 1002 made for American Heritage", Christie's, 2016-05-16]
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6193990 Christie's, "Christie's Dubai Important Watches Lot 6 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola 25 Years Service", Christie's, 2019-12-12]
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Lot 127 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 Coca-Cola", Sotheby's, 2014-11-11
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Fine Watches Lot 137 — Rolex ref 1002 yellow gold circa 1961", Sotheby's, 2021-03-19
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Fine Watches Lot 8044 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1970", Sotheby's, 2021-03-04
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Important Watches Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1968", Sotheby's, 2020-06-24
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Geneva Watches Weekly Lot 262 — Rolex ref 1002 retailed by Astrua", Sotheby's, 2020-06-18
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Hong Kong Watches Weekly Lot 114 — Rolex ref 1002 steel white dial", Sotheby's, 2020-11-18
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 318 — Rolex ref 1002/1005 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Lot 293 — Rolex "Zephir" dial for ref 1002/1008", Antiquorum, 2019-10-27
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Hong Kong Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 86 — Rolex ref 1002 Arabic dial", Antiquorum, 2017-03-18
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum New York Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Lot 213 — Rolex ref 1002 blue dial", Antiquorum, 2015-04-15
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Hong Kong Watches Lot 939 — Rolex ref 1002/8 9k yellow gold circa 1965", Bonhams, 2022-12-01
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Bijoux, Montres & Maroquinerie Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold black gloss dial", Bonhams, 2021-11-25
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Watches Online Lot 27 — Rolex ref 1002 caliber 1530, purchased 1962", Bonhams, 2024-03-01
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Weekly Watches Lot 2013 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Air-King, circa 1976", Bonhams, 2024-09-13
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 41 — Rolex ref 1002 catalogued as Explorer", Bonhams, 2021-02-23
* Bonhams, "Bonhams London Watches and Wristwatches Lot 164 — Rolex ref 1002 sunburst grey dial", Bonhams, 2019-09-19
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Monte-Carlo Modern & Vintage Watches Online Lot 79 — Rolex ref 1002 pink gold", Artcurial, 2021-05-20
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Jewellery & Watches Lot 133 — Rolex ref 1002 18k gold, case 487864", Artcurial, 2016-04-12
* Artcurial, "Artcurial Paris Fine Watches Lot 577 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial circa 1983", Artcurial, 2014-12-10
* Tajan, "Tajan Paris Watches Lot 60 — Rolex ref 1002 sigma dial circa 1972", Tajan, 2020-07-22
* Gros Delettrez, "Gros Delettrez Paris Montres & Horlogerie Lot 13 — Rolex ref 1002 steel with gold bezel", Gros Delettrez, 2015-11-13
* Bonhams, "Bonhams New York Watches Online Lot 87 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1967", Bonhams, 2021-07-28
* [https://www.christies.com/en/lot/lot-6146224 Christie's, "Christie's Hong Kong Important Watches and Private Collections Lot 2204 — Rolex ref 1002 steel circa 1964", Christie's, 2018-05-28]
* Aguttes, "Aguttes Paris Horlogerie Lot 146 — Rolex ref 1002 steel Roman-numeral dial", Aguttes, 2014-11-07
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1002/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1002 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Main Page

2026-08-13T13:07:53Z

Admin: SEO: escape pipe in homepage title with {{!}} so "| BezelBase" renders

__NOTOC__
<div style="display:none;">{{DISPLAYTITLE:BezelBase}}</div>
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Reference Encyclopedia {{!}} BezelBase
|description=Encyclopedic reference for Rolex watches. Vintage and discontinued Rolex references documented — specs, dial variants, serial ranges, production history.
|keywords=watch reference, Rolex, Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, Rolex Explorer, Rolex GMT-Master, Rolex Day-Date, President, Rolex Bubbleback, Rolex Prince, Brancard, Oyster, Ovettone, vintage Rolex, collector guide, watch history, production history, dial variants
|image=Bezelbase_main_poster.webp
|image_alt=BezelBase — vintage Rolex reference encyclopedia
|image_width=1280
|image_height=1280
|og_type=website
}}

<div style="max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1em;">

<div style="margin: 0.5em 0 1.5em 0;">
Rolex changed what a wristwatch could do. The Oyster case (1926) made watches waterproof, the Perpetual rotor (1931) made them self-winding, the Prince (1928) built them to chronometer grade. Watchmakers and collectors have spent the decades since cataloguing what changed across each reference. BezelBase tries to store this information in a single place.

Each article documents one Rolex reference: production years, movement, dial variants, case and bracelet details, auction record, and the things to check when authenticating one. Coverage spans the main Rolex lines so the history reads as one connected archive.

Inside one reference, the watch can change a lot. A 5512 from 1962 is not the 5512 from 1978. A pointed-crown-guard 1675 is not the late matte 1675. Generation matters first. [[BezelBase:About|About →]]
</div>


== From the archive: Submariner 5513 ==

<div style="display:flex; gap:18px; padding:16px; margin:0 0 2em 0; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555;">
<div style="flex:0 0 240px; align-self:flex-start;">
[[File:Ref 5513 hero.webp|frameless|240px|link=Reference:5513]]
</div>
<div style="flex:1; min-width:0;">
The [[Reference:5513|5513]] ran for 27 continuous years, the longest of any Submariner. A no-date diver that started gilt and glossy in 1962 and ended matte and modern in 1989, it carries more meaningful dial, bezel, and hand variants than any other reference in the family. Generation matters here more than almost anywhere in vintage Rolex.

'''[[Reference:5513|Read the full 5513 article →]]'''
</div>
</div>



== Recently updated ==
* '''11 August 2026''' — [[Reference:2136|2136]] (Oyster) · [[Reference:118209|118209]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:118139|118139]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:6075|6075]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6031|6031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5031|5031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5030|5030]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6429|6429]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:114200|114200]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:1007|1007]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:5504|5504]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:14000|14000]] (Air-King)
* '''10 August 2026''' — [[Reference:6262|6262]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:116515LN|116515LN]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:19018|19018]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:1005|1005]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1003|1003]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1002|1002]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1018|1018]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:6298|6298]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:5506|5506]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:6580|6580]] (Oyster Perpetual)


== Submariner ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-five-digit 1953–90
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6204|6204]] · [[Reference:6205|6205]] · [[Reference:6200|6200]] · [[Reference:6536|6536]] · [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] · [[Reference:6538|6538]] · [[Reference:5508|5508]] · [[Reference:5510|5510]] · [[Reference:5512|5512]] · [[Reference:5513|5513]] · [[Reference:5514|5514]] · [[Reference:5517|5517]] · [[Reference:1680|1680]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Five-digit 1979–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14060|14060]] · [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] · [[Reference:16800|16800]] · [[Reference:16610|16610]] · [[Reference:16610LV|16610LV]] · [[Reference:16803|16803]] · [[Reference:16808|16808]] · [[Reference:16613|16613]] · [[Reference:16618|16618]]
|}

'''[[Reference:submariner|→ Full Submariner index]]'''

== Daytona ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Manual-wind chronograph 1962–1988
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6238|6238]] · [[Reference:6239|6239]] · [[Reference:6240|6240]] · [[Reference:6241|6241]] · [[Reference:6262|6262]] · [[Reference:6263|6263]] · [[Reference:6264|6264]] · [[Reference:6265|6265]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Zenith automatic 1988–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16520|16520]] · [[Reference:16518|16518]] · [[Reference:16519|16519]] · [[Reference:16523|16523]] · [[Reference:16528|16528]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | In-house cal 4130 2000–2016
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116520|116520]] · [[Reference:116523|116523]] · [[Reference:116528|116528]]
|}

'''[[Reference:daytona|→ Full Daytona index]]'''

== Explorer ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1952–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6150|6150]] · [[Reference:6350|6350]] · [[Reference:6610|6610]] · [[Reference:1016|1016]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 1989–2021
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14270|14270]] · [[Reference:114270|114270]] · [[Reference:214270|214270]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer|→ Full Explorer index]]'''

== Explorer II ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage Freccione 1971–1984
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1655|1655]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Transitional 1985–1989
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16550|16550]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 40mm 1989–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16570|16570]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer-ii|→ Full Explorer II index]]'''

== GMT-Master ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1955–99
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6542|6542]] · [[Reference:1675|1675]] · [[Reference:16750|16750]] · [[Reference:16753|16753]] · [[Reference:16758|16758]] · [[Reference:16700|16700]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | GMT-Master II 1983–2007
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16760|16760]] · [[Reference:16710|16710]] · [[Reference:16713|16713]] · [[Reference:16718|16718]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 5-digit 2005–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116718LN|116718LN]] · [[Reference:116713LN|116713LN]] · [[Reference:116710LN|116710LN]] · [[Reference:116710BLNR|116710BLNR]] · [[Reference:116719BLRO|116719BLRO]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 6-digit 2018–present
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:126710BLRO|126710BLRO]] · [[Reference:126711CHNR|126711CHNR]] · [[Reference:126715CHNR|126715CHNR]] · [[Reference:126710BLNR|126710BLNR]] · [[Reference:126720VTNR|126720VTNR]] · [[Reference:126713GRNR|126713GRNR]] · [[Reference:126718GRNR|126718GRNR]] · [[Reference:126710GRNR|126710GRNR]]
|}

'''[[Reference:gmt-master|→ Full GMT-Master index]]'''

== Oyster & Bubbleback ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-Oyster & Oyster 1922–37
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:3666|3666]] · [[Reference:2136|2136]] · [[Reference:3003|3003]] · [[Reference:3004|3004]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Bubbleback era 1933–45
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1858|1858]] · [[Reference:3131|3131]] · [[Reference:3372|3372]] · [[Reference:3525|3525]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Datejust / Padellone / Super Oyster 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4467|4467]] · [[Reference:5030|5030]] · [[Reference:5031|5031]] · [[Reference:6031|6031]] · [[Reference:6075|6075]] · [[Reference:6105|6105]] · [[Reference:8171|8171]] · [[Reference:6098|6098]]
|}

'''[[Reference:bubbleback|→ Full Bubbleback index]]'''

== Day-Date ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Originals 1956–59
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6510|6510]] · [[Reference:6511|6511]] · [[Reference:6611|6611]] · [[Reference:6612|6612]] · [[Reference:6612B|6612B]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 4-digit President 1959–78
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1803|1803]] · [[Reference:1804|1804]] · [[Reference:1806|1806]] · [[Reference:1807|1807]] · [[Reference:1811|1811]] · [[Reference:1831|1831]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 5-digit 1977–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:18038|18038]] · [[Reference:18028|18028]] · [[Reference:18048|18048]] · [[Reference:18078|18078]] · [[Reference:18238|18238]] · [[Reference:18248|18248]] · [[Reference:18348|18348]] · [[Reference:18208|18208]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 6-digit Day-Date 36 2000–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:118238|118238]] · [[Reference:118208|118208]] · [[Reference:118235|118235]] · [[Reference:118138|118138]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Day-Date II 41mm 2008–15
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:218238|218238]] · [[Reference:218206|218206]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Oysterquartz 1977–2001
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:19018|19018]]
|}

'''[[Reference:day-date|→ Full Day-Date index]]'''

== Air-King ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Battle of Britain origin 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4925|4925]] · [[Reference:4365|4365]] · [[Reference:4499|4499]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | First automatic 1953–57
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6552|6552]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Long-run mainstay 1957–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:5500|5500]] · [[Reference:5501|5501]] · [[Reference:5502|5502]] · [[Reference:5504|5504]] · [[Reference:5506|5506]] · [[Reference:5520|5520]] · [[Reference:5700|5700]] · [[Reference:5701|5701]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Sapphire era 1989–2014
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14000|14000]] · [[Reference:14000M|14000M]] · [[Reference:114200|114200]]
|}

'''[[Reference:air-king|→ Full Air-King index]]'''

== Prince ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Brancard era 1928–mid-1940s
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1343|1343]] · [[Reference:971|971]] · [[Reference:1490|1490]] · [[Reference:1491|1491]] · [[Reference:1527|1527]] · [[Reference:1862|1862]] · [[Reference:3361|3361]] · [[Reference:3937|3937]]
|}

'''[[Reference:prince|→ Full Prince index]]'''

== Reference guides ==

Three pages cover material that applies across every Rolex line documented here. '''[[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelets]]''' catalogs bracelet refs, end links, clasps, and link types alongside the clasp date-code key. '''[[Reference:Movements|Movements]]''' lists every caliber spanning the manual-wind chronograph, Zenith-driven, and in-house generations. '''[[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]]''' decodes the three Rolex serial systems — numeric pre-1987, letter 1987–2010, and random alphanumeric 2010+.

</div>

[[Category:BezelBase]]

Main Page

2026-08-13T13:07:29Z

Admin: SEO: homepage title -> "Rolex Reference Encyclopedia | BezelBase" (keyword-first, Rolex topical signal)

__NOTOC__
<div style="display:none;">{{DISPLAYTITLE:BezelBase}}</div>
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Reference Encyclopedia | BezelBase
|description=Encyclopedic reference for Rolex watches. Vintage and discontinued Rolex references documented — specs, dial variants, serial ranges, production history.
|keywords=watch reference, Rolex, Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, Rolex Explorer, Rolex GMT-Master, Rolex Day-Date, President, Rolex Bubbleback, Rolex Prince, Brancard, Oyster, Ovettone, vintage Rolex, collector guide, watch history, production history, dial variants
|image=Bezelbase_main_poster.webp
|image_alt=BezelBase — vintage Rolex reference encyclopedia
|image_width=1280
|image_height=1280
|og_type=website
}}

<div style="max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1em;">

<div style="margin: 0.5em 0 1.5em 0;">
Rolex changed what a wristwatch could do. The Oyster case (1926) made watches waterproof, the Perpetual rotor (1931) made them self-winding, the Prince (1928) built them to chronometer grade. Watchmakers and collectors have spent the decades since cataloguing what changed across each reference. BezelBase tries to store this information in a single place.

Each article documents one Rolex reference: production years, movement, dial variants, case and bracelet details, auction record, and the things to check when authenticating one. Coverage spans the main Rolex lines so the history reads as one connected archive.

Inside one reference, the watch can change a lot. A 5512 from 1962 is not the 5512 from 1978. A pointed-crown-guard 1675 is not the late matte 1675. Generation matters first. [[BezelBase:About|About →]]
</div>


== From the archive: Submariner 5513 ==

<div style="display:flex; gap:18px; padding:16px; margin:0 0 2em 0; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555;">
<div style="flex:0 0 240px; align-self:flex-start;">
[[File:Ref 5513 hero.webp|frameless|240px|link=Reference:5513]]
</div>
<div style="flex:1; min-width:0;">
The [[Reference:5513|5513]] ran for 27 continuous years, the longest of any Submariner. A no-date diver that started gilt and glossy in 1962 and ended matte and modern in 1989, it carries more meaningful dial, bezel, and hand variants than any other reference in the family. Generation matters here more than almost anywhere in vintage Rolex.

'''[[Reference:5513|Read the full 5513 article →]]'''
</div>
</div>



== Recently updated ==
* '''11 August 2026''' — [[Reference:2136|2136]] (Oyster) · [[Reference:118209|118209]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:118139|118139]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:6075|6075]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6031|6031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5031|5031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5030|5030]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6429|6429]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:114200|114200]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:1007|1007]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:5504|5504]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:14000|14000]] (Air-King)
* '''10 August 2026''' — [[Reference:6262|6262]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:116515LN|116515LN]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:19018|19018]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:1005|1005]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1003|1003]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1002|1002]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1018|1018]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:6298|6298]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:5506|5506]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:6580|6580]] (Oyster Perpetual)


== Submariner ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-five-digit 1953–90
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6204|6204]] · [[Reference:6205|6205]] · [[Reference:6200|6200]] · [[Reference:6536|6536]] · [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] · [[Reference:6538|6538]] · [[Reference:5508|5508]] · [[Reference:5510|5510]] · [[Reference:5512|5512]] · [[Reference:5513|5513]] · [[Reference:5514|5514]] · [[Reference:5517|5517]] · [[Reference:1680|1680]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Five-digit 1979–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14060|14060]] · [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] · [[Reference:16800|16800]] · [[Reference:16610|16610]] · [[Reference:16610LV|16610LV]] · [[Reference:16803|16803]] · [[Reference:16808|16808]] · [[Reference:16613|16613]] · [[Reference:16618|16618]]
|}

'''[[Reference:submariner|→ Full Submariner index]]'''

== Daytona ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Manual-wind chronograph 1962–1988
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6238|6238]] · [[Reference:6239|6239]] · [[Reference:6240|6240]] · [[Reference:6241|6241]] · [[Reference:6262|6262]] · [[Reference:6263|6263]] · [[Reference:6264|6264]] · [[Reference:6265|6265]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Zenith automatic 1988–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16520|16520]] · [[Reference:16518|16518]] · [[Reference:16519|16519]] · [[Reference:16523|16523]] · [[Reference:16528|16528]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | In-house cal 4130 2000–2016
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116520|116520]] · [[Reference:116523|116523]] · [[Reference:116528|116528]]
|}

'''[[Reference:daytona|→ Full Daytona index]]'''

== Explorer ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1952–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6150|6150]] · [[Reference:6350|6350]] · [[Reference:6610|6610]] · [[Reference:1016|1016]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 1989–2021
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14270|14270]] · [[Reference:114270|114270]] · [[Reference:214270|214270]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer|→ Full Explorer index]]'''

== Explorer II ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage Freccione 1971–1984
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1655|1655]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Transitional 1985–1989
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16550|16550]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 40mm 1989–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16570|16570]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer-ii|→ Full Explorer II index]]'''

== GMT-Master ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1955–99
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6542|6542]] · [[Reference:1675|1675]] · [[Reference:16750|16750]] · [[Reference:16753|16753]] · [[Reference:16758|16758]] · [[Reference:16700|16700]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | GMT-Master II 1983–2007
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16760|16760]] · [[Reference:16710|16710]] · [[Reference:16713|16713]] · [[Reference:16718|16718]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 5-digit 2005–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116718LN|116718LN]] · [[Reference:116713LN|116713LN]] · [[Reference:116710LN|116710LN]] · [[Reference:116710BLNR|116710BLNR]] · [[Reference:116719BLRO|116719BLRO]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 6-digit 2018–present
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:126710BLRO|126710BLRO]] · [[Reference:126711CHNR|126711CHNR]] · [[Reference:126715CHNR|126715CHNR]] · [[Reference:126710BLNR|126710BLNR]] · [[Reference:126720VTNR|126720VTNR]] · [[Reference:126713GRNR|126713GRNR]] · [[Reference:126718GRNR|126718GRNR]] · [[Reference:126710GRNR|126710GRNR]]
|}

'''[[Reference:gmt-master|→ Full GMT-Master index]]'''

== Oyster & Bubbleback ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-Oyster & Oyster 1922–37
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:3666|3666]] · [[Reference:2136|2136]] · [[Reference:3003|3003]] · [[Reference:3004|3004]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Bubbleback era 1933–45
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1858|1858]] · [[Reference:3131|3131]] · [[Reference:3372|3372]] · [[Reference:3525|3525]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Datejust / Padellone / Super Oyster 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4467|4467]] · [[Reference:5030|5030]] · [[Reference:5031|5031]] · [[Reference:6031|6031]] · [[Reference:6075|6075]] · [[Reference:6105|6105]] · [[Reference:8171|8171]] · [[Reference:6098|6098]]
|}

'''[[Reference:bubbleback|→ Full Bubbleback index]]'''

== Day-Date ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Originals 1956–59
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6510|6510]] · [[Reference:6511|6511]] · [[Reference:6611|6611]] · [[Reference:6612|6612]] · [[Reference:6612B|6612B]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 4-digit President 1959–78
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1803|1803]] · [[Reference:1804|1804]] · [[Reference:1806|1806]] · [[Reference:1807|1807]] · [[Reference:1811|1811]] · [[Reference:1831|1831]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 5-digit 1977–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:18038|18038]] · [[Reference:18028|18028]] · [[Reference:18048|18048]] · [[Reference:18078|18078]] · [[Reference:18238|18238]] · [[Reference:18248|18248]] · [[Reference:18348|18348]] · [[Reference:18208|18208]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 6-digit Day-Date 36 2000–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:118238|118238]] · [[Reference:118208|118208]] · [[Reference:118235|118235]] · [[Reference:118138|118138]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Day-Date II 41mm 2008–15
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:218238|218238]] · [[Reference:218206|218206]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Oysterquartz 1977–2001
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:19018|19018]]
|}

'''[[Reference:day-date|→ Full Day-Date index]]'''

== Air-King ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Battle of Britain origin 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4925|4925]] · [[Reference:4365|4365]] · [[Reference:4499|4499]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | First automatic 1953–57
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6552|6552]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Long-run mainstay 1957–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:5500|5500]] · [[Reference:5501|5501]] · [[Reference:5502|5502]] · [[Reference:5504|5504]] · [[Reference:5506|5506]] · [[Reference:5520|5520]] · [[Reference:5700|5700]] · [[Reference:5701|5701]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Sapphire era 1989–2014
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14000|14000]] · [[Reference:14000M|14000M]] · [[Reference:114200|114200]]
|}

'''[[Reference:air-king|→ Full Air-King index]]'''

== Prince ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Brancard era 1928–mid-1940s
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1343|1343]] · [[Reference:971|971]] · [[Reference:1490|1490]] · [[Reference:1491|1491]] · [[Reference:1527|1527]] · [[Reference:1862|1862]] · [[Reference:3361|3361]] · [[Reference:3937|3937]]
|}

'''[[Reference:prince|→ Full Prince index]]'''

== Reference guides ==

Three pages cover material that applies across every Rolex line documented here. '''[[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelets]]''' catalogs bracelet refs, end links, clasps, and link types alongside the clasp date-code key. '''[[Reference:Movements|Movements]]''' lists every caliber spanning the manual-wind chronograph, Zenith-driven, and in-house generations. '''[[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]]''' decodes the three Rolex serial systems — numeric pre-1987, letter 1987–2010, and random alphanumeric 2010+.

</div>

[[Category:BezelBase]]

Reference:1802

2026-08-13T13:02:40Z

Admin: Fix empty SEO meta description (leaked blank from batch generation)

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 1802 — The Smooth-Bezel President, Stella & Omani Dials | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex 1802 is the smooth-bezel 4-digit Day-Date President — same 36mm case and caliber 1555/1556 as the fluted 1803, in yellow, white, pink gold and platinum. Pie-pan and lacquered Stella dials, plus the Omani commissions that carry its top auction results.
|image=Ref 1802 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Day-Date reference 1802 in yellow gold with a smooth polished bezel and silvered dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T00:34:51Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T00:42:55Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 1802}}

The 1802 is the smooth-bezel Day-Date, the plain polished member of the 4-digit President group. Everything behind the bezel is [[Reference:1803|1803]]: the same 36mm case, the same caliber 1555 and later 1556, the same quickset-free day-and-date mechanism and the same President bracelet. What changes is the ring around the crystal, which on the 1802 is left smooth and gently domed instead of fluted. Rolex offered it in yellow, white and pink gold and in platinum. It was always the minority choice against the fluted 1803, and two things carry the reference today: the dials, which run from early pie-pan silver through tropical black and lacquered Stella colours, and the Omani commissions, which is where the 1802 reaches serious money.

[[File:Ref 1802 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|alt=Rolex Day-Date reference 1802 in yellow gold with a smooth polished bezel and silvered dial|The 1802 in 18k yellow gold. The smooth, gently domed bezel is the only thing separating it from the fluted 1803.]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1802
|-
| family
| Day-Date
|-
| production
| alongside the 1803 from around 1960 to the 1977–78 changeover to the 5-digit references
|-
| movement
| caliber 1555, then caliber 1556 from around 1965; hacking from 1972; no quickset
|-
| case
| 36mm President in 18k yellow, white or pink gold, or platinum
|-
| crystal
| acrylic with Cyclops
|-
| bezel
| smooth, polished and gently domed — no fluting, gem-setting or texture
|-
| bracelet
| President; Jubilee on documented examples
|-
| dial
| pie-pan, doorstep, tropical black, Stella lacquer, diamond-set, English / French / Italian / Spanish / Eastern-Arabic calendar discs, Omani Qaboos and Khanjar
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| sibling references
| 1803 (fluted), 1804 (gem-set), 1806 (Florentine), 1807 (bark), 1811 (Morellis)
|-
| predecessor
| originals-era 6510 / 6511 / 6611 / 6612 cluster
|-
| successor
| 5-digit 18028 (yellow gold), 18029 (white gold), 18026 (platinum), all smooth-bezel
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit Day-Date splits by bezel, and the last digit of the reference is what carries the distinction. The 1802 takes the smooth bezel, the [[Reference:1803|1803]] the fluting that became the Day-Date's signature, the [[Reference:1804|1804]] a factory diamond set, the [[Reference:1806|1806]] the Florentine cross-hatch, the [[Reference:1807|1807]] bark and the [[Reference:1811|1811]] the Morellis moiré. Read the group that way and the 1802 is the one that does nothing to the gold at all.

That restraint is the whole proposition. A fluted President announces itself from across a room; a smooth-bezel one reads as a plain gold watch until someone looks at the dial. Rolex sold far more fluted examples, so the 1802 is the scarcer watch in production without ever having been rare in the collectible sense, and for decades it traded at a discount to the 1803 for exactly the reason that now makes it interesting. The same logic repeats one generation later on the [[Reference:18028|18028]], the smooth-bezel 5-digit successor.

A note on the number 1800 itself, since it turns up in searches and in older catalogues. Rolex used 1800 as the root of the series rather than as a bezel variant of its own, in the same way that 18000, 18200 and 118000 later stood for whole generations. A small number of watches were catalogued as "ref. 1800" by the auction houses in the early 2000s, among them a 1965 yellow-gold example at Christie's in London in 2004 and a 1973 blue-dial example at Christie's in Hong Kong in 2006. Those attributions have not been repeated since, no editorial source describes a distinct 1800 bezel, and the number does not appear in the marketplace reference indexes that carry 1802, 1803 and 1811. Treat a watch offered as a 1800 as a 180x-series Day-Date whose specific reference needs checking between the lugs.

==Production outline==

The 1802 runs with the rest of the 4-digit group from around 1960 to the 1977–78 changeover, and it shares the family case-serial stream rather than carrying a sequence of its own. Documented examples span most of that range: case numbers around 497,000 and 1,014,000 on early watches, 1,183,000 and 1,634,000 through the middle 1960s, 2,612,000 by the end of that decade, and 3,781,000 and 3,795,000 on the Omani watches of about 1974, reaching roughly 4,176,000 on late examples. When the 5-digit references took over, the smooth bezel split by metal into the [[Reference:18028|18028]] in yellow gold, the 18029 in white gold and the 18026 in platinum. No Rolex production figure has been published for the 1802, and as with the other non-fluted siblings it sold in modest numbers against the volume 1803.

==Movement notes==

The 1802 uses the standard 4-digit Day-Date movement. Caliber 1555 from the start, replaced by caliber 1556 around 1965 with the 19,800 vph rate, the additional jewel and the free-sprung Microstella balance. Hacking seconds arrived across the 1500 family in 1972. No 4-digit Day-Date has a quickset, so both day and date advance only by running the hands through midnight, which is the single biggest practical difference between owning one of these and owning a 5-digit President. There is no 1802-specific caliber; the bezel changes the look of the watch, not the mechanism. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry covers the 1555-to-1556 transition in detail.

==Dial map==

[[File:Ref 1802 stella.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Yellow-gold Rolex Day-Date 1802 with a black lacquered Stella dial on a Jubilee bracelet|A 1970 yellow-gold 1802 with a black lacquered Stella dial and French day disc, on its Jubilee reference 6311, shown with the chronometer attestation that came with it.]]

The plain bezel keeps the eye on the dial, and the 1802's variety lives there. Early examples carry the pie-pan dial, the shallow faceted profile that drops away at the outer track, usually silvered or champagne with applied baton markers. The doorstep dial is the configuration collectors chase hardest among the standard faces, named for the elongated rectangular markers at six and nine that step in from the edge.

Lacquer is the other half of the story. Phillips sold a 1970 yellow-gold example with a black lacquered Stella dial, still accompanied by its punched Attestation de Chronomètre Officiel, and the Stella colours reach the 1802 as they do the other 4-digit references, burgundy and oxblood among the documented examples. Christie's catalogued a platinum 1802 with a turquoise lacquer dial and diamond markers. Age then does its own work: Antiquorum and Phillips both catalogued the same yellow-gold watch with a tropical black "spider" dial, the lacquer crazed into a fine web, and tropical browns turn up across the reference as they do on any black-lacquered Rolex dial of the period. Diamond-set indices appear on gold and platinum examples throughout.

Calendar discs are their own axis, and the 1802 shows the range better than most references in the group. Beyond English, documented examples carry French, Italian, Spanish and Eastern-Arabic day discs, and the Arabic-calendar watches overlap with the Gulf commissions below. The deeper dial taxonomy that spans the whole President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

The case is the 36mm gold or platinum Oyster shared across the 4-digit Day-Date, with a Twinlock screw-down crown, a screw-down caseback and an acrylic crystal with Cyclops. The bezel is the reference: a plain polished ring, gently domed, with none of the worked surface of its siblings. On a polished-out case that smoothness can be hard to read, which is part of why the reference gets miscatalogued.

That miscataloguing is worth knowing about, and the caseback is the trap. Phillips catalogued one yellow-gold 1802 as "Ref. 1802, stamped 1803 inside the case back" and, three lots later in the same sale, a platinum one as "Ref. 1802, stamped 1804 in the caseback". Two watches, two different sibling references stamped inside, both genuine 1802s. Antiquorum hedges the same problem from the other direction, listing several watches as "Ref. 1802/1803" rather than committing.

The explanation is mundane. The 4-digit Day-Dates share a case, a caseback and a movement, Rolex stamped casebacks in lots that did not track the bezel fitted, and a replacement bezel is a straightforward service part, so a watch that left Geneva as one reference can be wearing another's bezel decades later. Attribution rests on the number engraved between the lugs, read against the bezel actually fitted. The caseback stamp dates the caseback lot and nothing more.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

The 1802 wears the President, with end links stamped 53 and the concealed deployant clasp on documented examples. The Jubilee is not a substitution to be suspicious of on this reference: Phillips catalogued a 1970 yellow-gold 1802 on a Rolex Jubilee reference 6311 with end links stamped 53 and a folding deployant clasp stamped 4.69, all of it signed and consistent with the watch. Rolex supplied the Day-Date on the Jubilee from the originals era onward, and the 1802 is one of the references where that fitment is documented rather than assumed.

The usual caution still applies. A clasp date code dates the bracelet rather than the watch head, and decades of service can leave a later bracelet on an earlier case; the 2004 Christie's sale of a 180x-series example carried a saleroom notice flagging exactly that, an unsigned clasp casting doubt on the bracelet as a whole. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Special branches==

===The Omani Day-Dates===

[[File:Ref 1802 khanjar.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Platinum Rolex Day-Date 1802 with a blue dial and the red Khanjar emblem of Oman|The 1975 platinum Khanjar 1802: blue dial, red Khanjar at six, diamond markers, Asprey-signed case. The reference's highest confirmed result.]]

The Gulf commissions are where the 1802 leaves the ordinary market behind, and the smooth bezel appears to have been the preferred canvas for them. Two emblems recur. The first is the signature of Sultan Qaboos bin Said, applied in green on silvered dials; Christie's catalogued a white-gold example with the Qaboos signature, case number 3,795,515, dated to about 1974, and further Qaboos examples in yellow and pink gold. The second is the red Khanjar, the crossed-daggers emblem of the Sultanate.

The best-documented Khanjar 1802 is the one Phillips sold in 2015: a 1975 platinum example, case number 3,856,081 repeated inside the caseback, with a blue dial carrying the red printed Khanjar at six o'clock and round-cut and baguette diamond markers, on a platinum President. Its case is signed Asprey, which is the hard evidence for how these watches reached Muscat. The London retailer applied the emblems for the Omani court, and the Muscat distributor Khimji Ramdas is the other name that recurs on Gulf Day-Dates of the period. It sold for CHF 131,000, the highest confirmed result for the reference.

The same commissions run across the [[Reference:1803|1803]], the [[Reference:1804|1804]] and the platinum [[Reference:1831|1831]], so an Omani dial is a branch of the whole Day-Date line rather than a quirk of this one reference. What the 1802 contributes is volume: it is among the more frequently documented references in the group for Qaboos and Khanjar dials.

==Auction record==

The 1802's market is bimodal, and the gap between the two halves is wide. A plain yellow-gold example with a standard dial belongs in the same band as any honest 4-digit President, from under ten thousand dollars to the low teens: Bonhams sold one for USD 8,925 in April 2023, and Antiquorum sold yellow-gold examples for CHF 9,375 in November 2019 and CHF 12,500 in May 2019. Nothing about the smooth bezel commands a premium of its own.

The Omani watches sit in a different market entirely. The platinum diamond-set Khanjar example Phillips sold in 2015 reached CHF 131,000, the reference's high-water mark, and Christie's sold a second platinum Khanjar for CHF 113,400 in 2023. Qaboos-signature examples have carried USD 44,100 in Dubai in 2022 and CHF 43,750 in Geneva in 2021. The pattern is consistent across the group: the case and movement are ordinary, and the dial is the entire proposition.

The Stella dials are the third tier, between the two. Phillips sold a 1970 yellow-gold black-lacquer example on its Jubilee, with the original chronometer attestation, for CHF 43,750 against a CHF 15,000–30,000 estimate — roughly four times what the same watch would bring with a silvered dial.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| May 2015
| Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 10
| platinum, diamond-set, blue dial with red Khanjar, Asprey-signed case, 1975
| CHF 131,000
|-
| Oct 2023
| Christie's Geneva, Passion for Time, lot 2206
| platinum, diamond-set, pie-pan dial with red Khanjar
| CHF 113,400
|-
| Nov 2021
| Christie's Hong Kong, An Exceptional Season of Watches, lot 2315
| yellow gold, Spanish calendar disc
| HKD 125,000
|-
| Mar 2022
| Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 43
| gold, diamond-set, made for Sultan Qaboos
| USD 44,100
|-
| May 2015
| Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 7
| yellow gold, black lacquered Stella dial, Jubilee, 1970
| CHF 43,750
|-
| Nov 2021
| Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 38
| gold, diamond-set, Arabic calendar disc
| CHF 43,750
|-
| May 2019
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 323
| yellow gold
| CHF 12,500
|-
| Nov 2019
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 162
| yellow gold
| CHF 9,375
|-
| Apr 2023
| Bonhams, lot 59
| 18k gold, white dial
| USD 8,925
|-
| Nov 2023
| Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 71
| white gold, Qaboos signature in green, case 3,795,515, c.1974
| not sold (est. CHF 30,000–50,000)
|-
| Oct 2023
| Christie's Dubai, lot 26
| yellow gold, Qaboos signature
| not sold (est. 35,000–55,000)
|}

Phillips ran two further 1802 lots in the same 2015 Glamorous Day-Date sale, in white and yellow gold, and Antiquorum offered two in the 2006 sale of the Mondani collection. Results for those four are not recorded here, and they matter mainly as evidence of how broadly the reference was made across metals.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1803|Day-Date 1803]] — Fluted President (1960–1977)
* [[Reference:1804|Day-Date 1804]]
* [[Reference:1806|Day-Date 1806]]
* [[Reference:1807|Day-Date 1807]]
* [[Reference:1811|Day-Date 1811]]
* [[Reference:1831|Day-Date 1831]]
* [[Reference:18028|Day-Date 18028]] — 1977–1988 smooth-bezel successor
* [[Reference:6510|Day-Date 6510]] — 1956–1957

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.puccipapaleo.com/bookstore/day-date ''Day-Date — The Presidential Rolex'' — Pucci Papaleo, Pucci Papaleo Editore, 2015]
* [https://www.mondanibooks.com/rolex-day-date-history ''Rolex Day-Date'' — Giorgia Mondani and Guido Mondani, Guido Mondani Editore]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/10 Phillips, "Rolex Ref. 1802, stamped 1804 in the caseback, Day-Date — a very rare and important platinum and diamond-set calendar wristwatch made for the Sultanate of Oman and retailed by Asprey, Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 10", Phillips, 2015]
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/CH080115/7 Phillips, "Rolex Ref. 1802, stamped 1803 inside the case back, Day-Date — a rare yellow gold calendar wristwatch with black lacquered "Stella" dial and Attestation de Chronometre Officiel, Phillips Geneva, Glamorous Day-Date, lot 7", Phillips, 2015]
* Christie's, "Rolex, very rare platinum and diamond-set Day-Date, ref. 1802, with pie-pan dial and red Khanjar symbol — Christie's Geneva, Passion for Time, lot 2206", Christie's, 2023
* Christie's, "Rolex, a very rare 18K white gold Day-Date made for the Sultanate of Oman, ref. 1802 — Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 71", Christie's, 2023
* Christie's, "Rolex, Day-Date ref. 1802, a rare gold and diamond-set automatic wristwatch made for Sultan Qaboos of Oman — Christie's Dubai, Watches Online: The Dubai Edit, lot 43", Christie's, 2022
* Christie's, "Rolex, a rare 18K gold and diamond-set automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, Arabic calendar and bracelet, ref. 1802 — Christie's Geneva, Rare Watches, lot 38", Christie's, 2021
* Christie's, "Rolex, an 18K gold automatic wristwatch with sweep centre seconds, day, date and bracelet, ref. 1802 — Christie's Hong Kong, An Exceptional Season of Watches, lot 2315", Christie's, 2021
* Antiquorum, "Rolex, ref. 1802, Day-Date, yellow gold — Antiquorum Geneva, Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces, lot 162", Antiquorum, 2019
* Bonhams, "Rolex, an 18K gold automatic calendar bracelet watch, ref. 1802 — Bonhams, lot 59", Bonhams, 2023
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/day-date/ref-rolex-1802/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Day-Date ref. 1802 — Collector Square LuxPrice-Index auction record", Collector Square]
* [https://www.vintagewatchesmilano.com/?p=8025 Vintage Watches Milano, "Early Rolex Day-Date ref. 1802 with Doorstep dial", Vintage Watches Milano]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-day-date-a-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://watchbase.com/blog/2015/02/21/rolex-day-date-history WatchBase editorial, "Rolex Day-Date History", WatchBase, 2015-02-21]
* [https://ottuhr.com/index/rolex/day-date-president/rolex-day-date-1803/ Ottuhr editorial, "Rolex Day-Date 1803 Reference Report", Ottuhr]

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:118209

2026-08-13T13:02:40Z

Admin: Fix empty SEO meta description (leaked blank from batch generation)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 36 118209}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 118209 — The Smooth-Bezel White Gold 'Stealth' President | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex 118209 is the smooth-bezel white-gold Day-Date 36, worn on an Oyster bracelet instead of the President — caliber 3155, circa 2000 to 2019. Built to pass for a steel Datejust; white-gold counterpart to the yellow-gold 118208.
|image=Ref 118209 hero.webp
|image_alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118209 smooth bezel silver Roman dial on Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T00:35:08Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T00:36:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

The 118209 is the white-gold smooth-bezel Day-Date 36, and it is the most self-effacing Rolex the catalogue has ever held. White gold with no fluting, a silvered Roman dial with no lume, and a three-piece Oyster bracelet instead of the President: the result looks so much like a steel Datejust that its owners mostly enjoy the fact nobody notices. It is the white-gold counterpart to the yellow-gold [[Reference:118208|118208]], built on the same 6-digit case and caliber 3155, and it ran from 2000 to about 2019.

[[File:Ref 118209 hero.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118209 smooth bezel silver Roman dial on Oyster bracelet|Rolex Day-Date 36 118209 — white gold, smooth bezel and a three-piece Oyster bracelet, the combination that makes it read as steel.]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 118209
|-
| family
| Day-Date (Day-Date 36, 6-digit)
|-
| production
| 2000 to about 2019
|-
| movement
| caliber 3155, double quickset, COSC
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k white gold
|-
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
|-
| bezel
| smooth, gently domed
|-
| bracelet
| white-gold Oyster three-piece, reference 73859; President also catalogued
|-
| dial
| silvered Roman the standard; silver diamond, black, blue, white, purple, brown, red, "Wave", cherry and mother-of-pearl documented
|-
| crown
| screw-down, Twinlock
|-
| siblings
| 118208 (yellow gold, smooth), 118206 (platinum, smooth), 118239 (white gold, fluted), 118139 (white gold, strap)
|-
| successor
| none direct; the 2019 caliber-3255 Day-Date 36 dropped the white-gold smooth
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The Day-Date exists to be recognised. It is the President, it only comes in precious metal, and the fluted bezel and the heavy gold bracelet are how it announces that from across a room. The 118209 removes every one of those signals while keeping the watch underneath, and that is the whole idea.

Within the 6-digit generation it is the white-gold member of the smooth-bezel branch: the [[Reference:118208|118208]] in yellow gold, the 118206 in platinum with its ice-blue dial, and the 118209 in white. Against its own fluted sibling the [[Reference:118239|118239]] it gives up all the visual weight and keeps the case, the movement and the day aperture. The smooth bezel was always the minority taste across the line, and in white gold it is the minority of a minority, which is why the reference is thin on the ground compared with the fluted models.

==Production outline==

The 118209 ran from 2000, when the 6-digit references replaced the 5-digit line, through to about 2019. Documented examples cluster in the early part of that window, with dated watches recorded from 2000, 2001, 2002, 2004 and 2005, and the reference is easier to find from those years than from the 2010s. Rolex has published no production figure.

Nothing replaced it directly. The caliber-3255 Day-Date 36 that arrived in 2019 kept the fluted references across the metals and let the white-gold smooth lapse, exactly as it did with the yellow-gold [[Reference:118208|118208]]. The plain-bezel Day-Date 36 ended with the 118xxx generation.

==Movement notes==

Caliber 3155 drives the 118209: the double-quickset Day-Date movement, COSC certified, with day and date both advanced from the crown and a hacking seconds hand. Later production carries the blue Parachrom hairspring that Rolex rolled across the catalogue from around 2005. It is the same movement as the fluted [[Reference:118239|118239]] and the yellow-gold [[Reference:118208|118208]]; the bezel is the only thing that separates the 118209 from its fluted twin. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:118238|118238]] entry covers the 3155 in detail.

==Dial map==

[[File:Ref 118209 dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118209 silvered dial with applied Roman numerals and no lume|The standard dial: silvered, applied white-gold Roman numerals, no luminous material, and hands carrying a black enamel stripe in place of a lume channel.]]

The standard 118209 carries a silvered dial with applied white-gold Roman numerals, no luminous material at all, and hands with a black enamel stripe down their length instead of a lume channel. That combination is deliberate and it is worth understanding: lume plots would break the dress-watch line, so Rolex left them off, and the enamel stripe exists to give the hands definition against a silver dial without them.

Beyond the silvered Roman, black, blue, white, purple, brown and red dials are all documented on the reference, as are silver dials with diamond hour markers and mother-of-pearl dials with diamond settings. The "Wave" dial, a rippled pattern Rolex used on Day-Dates of the early 2000s, turns up on white-gold 118209 examples of that period and is the most distinctive of the printed patterns. Deeper dial taxonomy across the President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry; on a watch this plain the dial is most of what there is to choose.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

The case is the 36mm white-gold Oyster of the 6-digit generation, with its broader lugs and fully polished flanks, a screw-down caseback, a screw-down Twinlock crown and a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops over the date. Later examples carry the engraved rehaut that Rolex introduced across the catalogue in the second half of the 2000s.

The bezel is smooth and gently domed, polished white gold with no fluting. On a yellow-gold case a smooth bezel still reads as gold; on white gold it removes the last thing that distinguishes the watch from steel at a glance. Weight gives it away in the hand, and the caseback and bracelet carry the 18K stamps, but on the wrist it passes. Whether that is a feature or a waste of white gold is the argument the reference has always provoked.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

[[File:Ref 118209 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118209 caseback and white gold Oyster bracelet with 18K stamp|Caseback and bracelet. The 18K stamp on the end link is one of the few external cues that the watch is not steel.]]

The 118209 is an Oyster-bracelet watch in practice. The fitting recorded on examples is the white-gold three-piece Oyster, bracelet reference 73859, and it does as much as the bezel to disguise the watch. The President bracelet appears as a catalogue option and examples on it are described in the market, but the Oyster is what the documented watches wear, and it is the pairing that gives the reference its character.

Clasp descriptions vary between a plain folding Oysterclasp and a concealed folding Crownclasp, which is consistent with both fittings having been available over a nineteen-year run. As with any of these, a clasp date code dates the bracelet rather than the watch head, and decades of service can put a later bracelet on an earlier watch. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Special branches==

===The stealth President===

The 118209 is the clearest example of a small Rolex tradition: the precious-metal watch built to look like the steel one. A white-gold case, a smooth bezel and an Oyster bracelet strip out every cue that says Day-Date except the day window itself, and the day window is the one thing that cannot be removed. Collectors who buy this reference tend to buy it precisely for that gap between what it is and what it looks like.

===The white-gold smooth as an endpoint===

The plain-bezel Day-Date did not survive the move to caliber 3255. Rolex carried the fluted references forward in yellow gold, white gold, Everose and platinum, and let the smooth-bezel versions go, so the 118209 closes the white-gold smooth thread rather than handing it on. The platinum 118206 is the only smooth-bezel Day-Date 36 whose look continued, and even that changed: the platinum Day-Date 36 that arrived in 2019 wears a fluted platinum bezel.

==Market==

The 118209 trades through dealers and the certified-pre-owned market and reaches the catalogued auctions only occasionally. Asking prices for good examples with box and papers sit in the mid-twenties of thousands of dollars, which puts it in the same band as the fluted white-gold references rather than at a discount, and the reference's scarcity does more for its price than its plainness does against it. Diamond-set and mother-of-pearl dials sit above the band; plain silvered Roman examples define it.

The auction record is thin enough to list in full, and both results are recent.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| June 2026
| Sterling Vault Auctioneers
| 36mm 18k white gold, silver dial
| USD 22,994
|-
| June 2026
| Monaco Legend Group
| 36mm 18k white gold, black dial
| USD 20,608
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:118208|Day-Date 118208]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118239|Day-Date 118239]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118238|Day-Date 118238]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118139|Day-Date 118139]] — 2013–2019
* [[Reference:118235|Day-Date 118235]] — 2005–2019
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]] — 1988–2000

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.chrono24.com/rolex/ref-118209.htm Chrono24, "Rolex Day-Date 36 118209 — Chrono24 reference page", Chrono24]
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-day-date-118209-white-gold-w2039 Bulang and Sons, "Rolex Day-Date 118209 White Gold Smooth Bezel Silver Dial", Bulang and Sons]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-day-date-ref-118209-white-gold.html Bob's Watches, "Used Rolex Day-Date 118209, 18k white gold, smooth bezel — Bob's Watches", Bob's Watches]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/118209 EveryWatch, "Rolex Day-Date 118209 — auction results and dealer index, EveryWatch", EveryWatch, 2026]
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m128236-0011 Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 128236, platinum with fluted bezel — rolex.com model data (m128236-0011)", Rolex, 2023]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/caliber/3155 WatchBase, "Rolex caliber 3155 (registry page)", WatchBase]
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/thewatchclub/2024/01/25/generations-rolex-president-day-date/ SwissWatchExpo editorial, "Generations of the Rolex President Day-Date", SwissWatchExpo, 2024]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-day-date-a-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/exploring-evergreens-the-rolex-day-date-18238/ Fratello editorial, "Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Day-Date 18238", Fratello Watches]

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:118139

2026-08-13T13:02:39Z

Admin: Fix empty SEO meta description (leaked blank from batch generation)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 36 118139}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 118139 — White Gold on Leather, Lapis & Cherry Dials | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex 118139 is the white-gold strap Day-Date 36 — 18k white gold, fluted bezel, caliber 3155, made 2013 to about 2019. Same case as the President-bracelet 118239, hung on an alligator strap in blue, cherry, rhodium, and lapis lazuli.
|image=Ref 118139 hero.webp
|image_alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118139 blue dial on blue alligator strap
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T00:35:06Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T00:35:56Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

The 118139 is the white-gold strap Day-Date 36. It uses the same 36mm 18k white gold case and fluted bezel as the President-bracelet [[Reference:118239|118239]], and hangs it on an alligator strap closed by a folding gold clasp. Rolex added the strap-mounted Day-Dates to the line at Baselworld 2013 alongside the yellow-gold [[Reference:118138|118138]] and the Everose 118135. Where the yellow-gold version took the warm colours, the white-gold one took the cold ones: blue, cherry, rhodium, and a lapis lazuli stone dial. Caliber 3155, made to about 2019.

[[File:Ref 118139 hero.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118139 blue dial on blue alligator strap|Rolex Day-Date 36 118139 in 18 ct white gold — blue sunburst dial, fluted bezel, matching blue alligator strap.]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 118139
|-
| family
| Day-Date (Day-Date 36, 6-digit)
|-
| production
| 2013 to about 2019
|-
| movement
| caliber 3155, 28,800 vph, blue Parachrom hairspring, double quickset, COSC
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k white gold, monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback
|-
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
|-
| bezel
| fluted
|-
| strap
| alligator leather; Rolex's spec sheets name a folding Oysterclasp, its catalogue prose an 18 ct gold Crownclasp
|-
| dial
| blue, cherry, rhodium, lapis lazuli, white carousel catalogued; white Roman also documented
|-
| crown
| screw-down, Twinlock
|-
| water resistance
| 100 metres
|-
| siblings
| 118239 (white gold, President bracelet), 118138 (yellow-gold strap), 118135 (Everose strap), 118209 (white gold, smooth bezel)
|-
| successor
| none direct; the caliber-3255 strap Day-Date 36 references that arrived in 2021 are fully gem-set
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 118139 is what happens when the white-gold Day-Date loses its bracelet. Everything from the lugs inward is the [[Reference:118239|118239]]: the same 36mm white-gold Oyster case, the same fluted bezel, the same caliber 3155. The strap is the whole difference, and it is a bigger one than it sounds. A gold President bracelet accounts for much of what a Day-Date weighs and much of what it costs, so taking it off produces a lighter, cheaper, less ceremonial watch out of unchanged parts.

White gold sharpens that further. A yellow-gold Day-Date on leather still reads as a gold watch; a white-gold one on a dark alligator strap mostly reads as a dress watch that happens to be precious metal. That understatement is the reason to want one, and it is the same instinct that produced the smooth-bezel [[Reference:118209|118209]] on the bracelet side of the catalogue.

==Production outline==

Rolex introduced the strap Day-Date 36 at Baselworld 2013, well into the run of the 118xxx case generation that began in 2000. The 118139 belongs to that 2013 group rather than to the start of the generation, so it is a watch of the 2010s. It ran to about 2019, when the caliber-3255 references took over the Day-Date 36.

Nothing plain replaced it. When a strap Day-Date 36 returned at Watches and Wonders in 2021 it came only in fully gem-set form, so the 118139 and its two siblings remain the only Day-Date 36 references offered on leather with an ordinary bezel and an ordinary dial. Rolex has published no production figure.

==Movement notes==

The 118139 runs caliber 3155, the double-quickset Day-Date movement, beating at 28,800 vph with the paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and bidirectional winding through the Perpetual rotor. Day and date both set from the crown, and the seconds hack. It is the same movement as the bracelet-mounted [[Reference:118239|118239]] and the yellow-gold [[Reference:118138|118138]]; the strap changes the watch, not the mechanism. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:118238|118238]] entry covers the 3155 in detail.

One detail dates an example from its paperwork rather than its movement. Rolex's earlier spec sheet for the reference certifies it as an officially certified Swiss chronometer to COSC; the later one reads "Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)". That is Rolex redefining what Superlative Chronometer meant across the catalogue from 2015, not two different calibers.

==Dial map==

[[File:Ref 118139 cherry.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118139 cherry dial on bordeaux alligator strap|The cherry dial on a bordeaux strap — the boldest of the five catalogued configurations.]]

Five dials are documented in Rolex's own catalogue for the 118139, and they are the clearest evidence of what the white-gold strap version was meant to be.

The blue sunburst is the signature, sold on a matching blue alligator strap, and it is the configuration most people picture. The cherry, a saturated red-purple, came on a bordeaux strap and is the boldest of the set. Rhodium is the conservative choice, a plain grey-silver that leans hardest into the dress-watch reading. The white carousel adds a textured, spun pattern. The outlier is lapis lazuli, a genuine hardstone dial, and the only one of the five where the dial rather than the strap is the reason to buy the watch.

Beyond the catalogued five, white Roman-numeral examples on brown alligator turn up on the market, so the range on the ground is wider than the five configurations Rolex kept online. Deeper dial taxonomy across the President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

[[File:Ref 118139 white roman.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118139 white Roman dial showing the fluted white gold bezel|A white Roman example on brown alligator. The fluting on the white-gold bezel reads as a fine ribbed ring rather than a bright sunburst.]]

The case is the 36mm white-gold Oyster of the 6-digit Day-Date: monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback, screw-down Twinlock crown, sapphire crystal with a Cyclops over the date, waterproof to 100 metres. The lugs carry a strap instead of an end link, and that is the only structural departure from the bracelet references.

The bezel is fluted. This is worth stating plainly because dealer listings routinely describe the strap Day-Dates as smooth-bezel watches, and photographs of real examples show the fluting as clearly as Rolex's own spec sheet prints it. On white gold the fluting reads as a fine ribbed ring rather than the bright sunburst it makes on yellow gold, which is probably where the confusion starts.

==Strap and clasp==

The 118139 wears an alligator strap in a colour matched to the dial, and the clasp is where Rolex contradicts itself. The downloadable spec sheets list the fitting as a folding Oysterclasp; the catalogue text on the same product pages describes an 18 ct gold Crownclasp, the concealed folding buckle that hides under a crown medallion. Both descriptions are Rolex's, published at the same time about the same watch, and no third source resolves them. In practice the strap is a wear item and gets replaced, so the clasp on a given example dates that example's last strap change rather than the watch.

The cross-family bracelet detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]]. The strap Day-Dates sit apart from the President-bracelet references covered there.

==Special branches==

===The lapis lazuli dial===

Lapis is the one 118139 that a collector would chase for the dial alone. Rolex cut stone dials in small numbers across the Day-Date line, and the deep blue of lapis against a white-gold case and a dark strap is the most striking combination the reference offered. It sits apart from the four metallic and lacquer dials in both rarity and price.

===The quiet one of the 2013 trio===

Of the three strap Day-Dates launched in 2013, the yellow gold gets the attention, on the strength of the cognac and green dials that came with it. The white gold is the one that disappears on the wrist. That is either the point of the watch or the reason it sold in smaller numbers, depending on which collector is asked, and both readings show up in how the two references trade.

==Market==

The 118139 is a modern reference that changes hands through the dealer and certified-pre-owned market rather than under the hammer; no headline auction lot has surfaced for it. Documented asking prices sit in the mid-twenties of thousands of dollars for a standard catalogued dial in good order with its box and papers, which places it below the white-gold President-bracelet [[Reference:118239|118239]] by roughly the value of the gold bracelet it does without. The lapis lazuli and any gem-set configuration carry premiums above that band. As with the rest of the strap group, the dial drives the price and the strap itself is worth nothing, because it will have been replaced.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:118138|Day-Date 118138]] — 2013–2019
* [[Reference:118239|Day-Date 118239]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118238|Day-Date 118238]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118209|Day-Date 118209]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118208|Day-Date 118208]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118235|Day-Date 118235]] — 2005–2019

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [http://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m118139-0004.pdf Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 118139, Oyster 36 mm white gold, blue dial — rolex.com model spec sheet (m118139-0004)", Rolex, 2016]
* [http://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m118139-0007.pdf Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 118139, Oyster 36 mm white gold, cherry dial — rolex.com model spec sheet (m118139-0007)", Rolex, 2017]
* [http://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m118139-0073.html Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 118139 model pages — rolex.com (m118139-0053 rhodium, -0073 lapis lazuli, -0077 white carousel)", Rolex, 2018]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-white-gold-day-date-118139.html Bob's Watches, "Rolex White Gold Day-Date 118139, white Roman dial on brown alligator — Bob's Watches", Bob's Watches]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/caliber/3155 WatchBase, "Rolex caliber 3155 (registry page)", WatchBase]
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/thewatchclub/2024/01/25/generations-rolex-president-day-date/ SwissWatchExpo editorial, "Generations of the Rolex President Day-Date", SwissWatchExpo, 2024]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-day-date-a-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/exploring-evergreens-the-rolex-day-date-18238/ Fratello editorial, "Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Day-Date 18238", Fratello Watches]
* [https://mondanibooks.com/rolex-day-date-history/ ''Rolex Day-Date Volume (Mondani Editore)'' — Mondani Family, Guido Mondani Editore]

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Main Page

2026-08-12T05:30:03Z

Admin: Refresh featured watch (weekly rotation) + recently-updated (from RecentChanges)

__NOTOC__
<div style="display:none;">{{DISPLAYTITLE:BezelBase}}</div>
{{#seo:
|title=BezelBase — Watch Reference Encyclopedia
|description=Encyclopedic reference for Rolex watches. Vintage and discontinued Rolex references documented — specs, dial variants, serial ranges, production history.
|keywords=watch reference, Rolex, Rolex Submariner, Rolex Daytona, Rolex Explorer, Rolex GMT-Master, Rolex Day-Date, President, Rolex Bubbleback, Rolex Prince, Brancard, Oyster, Ovettone, vintage Rolex, collector guide, watch history, production history, dial variants
|image=Bezelbase_main_poster.webp
|image_alt=BezelBase — vintage Rolex reference encyclopedia
|image_width=1280
|image_height=1280
|og_type=website
}}

<div style="max-width: 720px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1em;">

<div style="margin: 0.5em 0 1.5em 0;">
Rolex changed what a wristwatch could do. The Oyster case (1926) made watches waterproof, the Perpetual rotor (1931) made them self-winding, the Prince (1928) built them to chronometer grade. Watchmakers and collectors have spent the decades since cataloguing what changed across each reference. BezelBase tries to store this information in a single place.

Each article documents one Rolex reference: production years, movement, dial variants, case and bracelet details, auction record, and the things to check when authenticating one. Coverage spans the main Rolex lines so the history reads as one connected archive.

Inside one reference, the watch can change a lot. A 5512 from 1962 is not the 5512 from 1978. A pointed-crown-guard 1675 is not the late matte 1675. Generation matters first. [[BezelBase:About|About →]]
</div>


== From the archive: Submariner 5513 ==

<div style="display:flex; gap:18px; padding:16px; margin:0 0 2em 0; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555;">
<div style="flex:0 0 240px; align-self:flex-start;">
[[File:Ref 5513 hero.webp|frameless|240px|link=Reference:5513]]
</div>
<div style="flex:1; min-width:0;">
The [[Reference:5513|5513]] ran for 27 continuous years, the longest of any Submariner. A no-date diver that started gilt and glossy in 1962 and ended matte and modern in 1989, it carries more meaningful dial, bezel, and hand variants than any other reference in the family. Generation matters here more than almost anywhere in vintage Rolex.

'''[[Reference:5513|Read the full 5513 article →]]'''
</div>
</div>



== Recently updated ==
* '''11 August 2026''' — [[Reference:2136|2136]] (Oyster) · [[Reference:118209|118209]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:118139|118139]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:6075|6075]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6031|6031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5031|5031]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:5030|5030]] (Bubbleback) · [[Reference:6429|6429]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:114200|114200]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:1007|1007]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:5504|5504]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:14000|14000]] (Air-King)
* '''10 August 2026''' — [[Reference:6262|6262]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:116515LN|116515LN]] (Daytona) · [[Reference:19018|19018]] (Day-Date) · [[Reference:1005|1005]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1003|1003]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1002|1002]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:1018|1018]] (Oyster Perpetual) · [[Reference:6298|6298]] (Explorer) · [[Reference:5506|5506]] (Air-King) · [[Reference:6580|6580]] (Oyster Perpetual)


== Submariner ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-five-digit 1953–90
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6204|6204]] · [[Reference:6205|6205]] · [[Reference:6200|6200]] · [[Reference:6536|6536]] · [[Reference:6536-1|6536/1]] · [[Reference:6538|6538]] · [[Reference:5508|5508]] · [[Reference:5510|5510]] · [[Reference:5512|5512]] · [[Reference:5513|5513]] · [[Reference:5514|5514]] · [[Reference:5517|5517]] · [[Reference:1680|1680]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Five-digit 1979–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14060|14060]] · [[Reference:14060M|14060M]] · [[Reference:16800|16800]] · [[Reference:16610|16610]] · [[Reference:16610LV|16610LV]] · [[Reference:16803|16803]] · [[Reference:16808|16808]] · [[Reference:16613|16613]] · [[Reference:16618|16618]]
|}

'''[[Reference:submariner|→ Full Submariner index]]'''

== Daytona ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Manual-wind chronograph 1962–1988
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6238|6238]] · [[Reference:6239|6239]] · [[Reference:6240|6240]] · [[Reference:6241|6241]] · [[Reference:6262|6262]] · [[Reference:6263|6263]] · [[Reference:6264|6264]] · [[Reference:6265|6265]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Zenith automatic 1988–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16520|16520]] · [[Reference:16518|16518]] · [[Reference:16519|16519]] · [[Reference:16523|16523]] · [[Reference:16528|16528]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | In-house cal 4130 2000–2016
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116520|116520]] · [[Reference:116523|116523]] · [[Reference:116528|116528]]
|}

'''[[Reference:daytona|→ Full Daytona index]]'''

== Explorer ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1952–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6150|6150]] · [[Reference:6350|6350]] · [[Reference:6610|6610]] · [[Reference:1016|1016]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 1989–2021
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14270|14270]] · [[Reference:114270|114270]] · [[Reference:214270|214270]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer|→ Full Explorer index]]'''

== Explorer II ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage Freccione 1971–1984
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1655|1655]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Transitional 1985–1989
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16550|16550]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Modern 40mm 1989–2010
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16570|16570]]
|}

'''[[Reference:explorer-ii|→ Full Explorer II index]]'''

== GMT-Master ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Vintage 1955–99
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6542|6542]] · [[Reference:1675|1675]] · [[Reference:16750|16750]] · [[Reference:16753|16753]] · [[Reference:16758|16758]] · [[Reference:16700|16700]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | GMT-Master II 1983–2007
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:16760|16760]] · [[Reference:16710|16710]] · [[Reference:16713|16713]] · [[Reference:16718|16718]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 5-digit 2005–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:116718LN|116718LN]] · [[Reference:116713LN|116713LN]] · [[Reference:116710LN|116710LN]] · [[Reference:116710BLNR|116710BLNR]] · [[Reference:116719BLRO|116719BLRO]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Ceramic 6-digit 2018–present
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:126710BLRO|126710BLRO]] · [[Reference:126711CHNR|126711CHNR]] · [[Reference:126715CHNR|126715CHNR]] · [[Reference:126710BLNR|126710BLNR]] · [[Reference:126720VTNR|126720VTNR]] · [[Reference:126713GRNR|126713GRNR]] · [[Reference:126718GRNR|126718GRNR]] · [[Reference:126710GRNR|126710GRNR]]
|}

'''[[Reference:gmt-master|→ Full GMT-Master index]]'''

== Oyster & Bubbleback ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Pre-Oyster & Oyster 1922–37
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:3666|3666]] · [[Reference:2136|2136]] · [[Reference:3003|3003]] · [[Reference:3004|3004]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Bubbleback era 1933–45
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1858|1858]] · [[Reference:3131|3131]] · [[Reference:3372|3372]] · [[Reference:3525|3525]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Datejust / Padellone / Super Oyster 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4467|4467]] · [[Reference:5030|5030]] · [[Reference:5031|5031]] · [[Reference:6031|6031]] · [[Reference:6075|6075]] · [[Reference:6105|6105]] · [[Reference:8171|8171]] · [[Reference:6098|6098]]
|}

'''[[Reference:bubbleback|→ Full Bubbleback index]]'''

== Day-Date ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Originals 1956–59
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6510|6510]] · [[Reference:6511|6511]] · [[Reference:6611|6611]] · [[Reference:6612|6612]] · [[Reference:6612B|6612B]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 4-digit President 1959–78
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1803|1803]] · [[Reference:1804|1804]] · [[Reference:1806|1806]] · [[Reference:1807|1807]] · [[Reference:1811|1811]] · [[Reference:1831|1831]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 5-digit 1977–2000
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:18038|18038]] · [[Reference:18028|18028]] · [[Reference:18048|18048]] · [[Reference:18078|18078]] · [[Reference:18238|18238]] · [[Reference:18248|18248]] · [[Reference:18348|18348]] · [[Reference:18208|18208]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | 6-digit Day-Date 36 2000–19
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:118238|118238]] · [[Reference:118208|118208]] · [[Reference:118235|118235]] · [[Reference:118138|118138]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Day-Date II 41mm 2008–15
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:218238|218238]] · [[Reference:218206|218206]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Oysterquartz 1977–2001
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:19018|19018]]
|}

'''[[Reference:day-date|→ Full Day-Date index]]'''

== Air-King ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Battle of Britain origin 1945–53
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:4925|4925]] · [[Reference:4365|4365]] · [[Reference:4499|4499]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | First automatic 1953–57
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:6552|6552]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Long-run mainstay 1957–89
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:5500|5500]] · [[Reference:5501|5501]] · [[Reference:5502|5502]] · [[Reference:5504|5504]] · [[Reference:5506|5506]] · [[Reference:5520|5520]] · [[Reference:5700|5700]] · [[Reference:5701|5701]]
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Sapphire era 1989–2014
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:14000|14000]] · [[Reference:14000M|14000M]] · [[Reference:114200|114200]]
|}

'''[[Reference:air-king|→ Full Air-King index]]'''

== Prince ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin-top:0.5em; table-layout:fixed; line-height:1.35;"
|-
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px; width:150px;" | Era
! style="text-align:left; border-bottom:1px solid #ccc; padding:2px 3px;" | References
|-
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top; font-weight:bold;" | Brancard era 1928–mid-1940s
| style="padding:3px 4px; vertical-align:top;" | [[Reference:1343|1343]] · [[Reference:971|971]] · [[Reference:1490|1490]] · [[Reference:1491|1491]] · [[Reference:1527|1527]] · [[Reference:1862|1862]] · [[Reference:3361|3361]] · [[Reference:3937|3937]]
|}

'''[[Reference:prince|→ Full Prince index]]'''

== Reference guides ==

Three pages cover material that applies across every Rolex line documented here. '''[[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelets]]''' catalogs bracelet refs, end links, clasps, and link types alongside the clasp date-code key. '''[[Reference:Movements|Movements]]''' lists every caliber spanning the manual-wind chronograph, Zenith-driven, and in-house generations. '''[[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers]]''' decodes the three Rolex serial systems — numeric pre-1987, letter 1987–2010, and random alphanumeric 2010+.

</div>

[[Category:BezelBase]]

Reference:pre-daytona-chronographs

2026-08-11T18:44:36Z

Admin: Fact fix: citation mislabeled ref 3666 (a distinct, already-documented pre-Submariner reference) when the described watch is 3668, the 3525's reeded-bezel chronograph sibling per this article's own table

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex pre-Daytona chronographs}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Pre-Daytona Chronographs — 1937–1963 Guide | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex chronograph line before the 1963 Cosmograph Daytona launch. Antimagnetique 2508, Monoblocco 3525 and the WWII POW watches, the 4xxx tonneau Oysters, the 6034 anti-magnetic, and the 6234 / 6238 Pre-Daytona references that hand off to the 6239.
|keywords=Rolex chronograph, Pre-Daytona, Antimagnetique, Monoblocco, Barilotto, 2508, 3525, 3668, 3833, 4099, 4500, 4537, 4767, 5034, 6034, 6234, 6238, Valjoux 23, Valjoux 72, vintage Rolex
|image=Pre-daytona chronographs vintage poster.webp
|image_alt=Rolex pre-Daytona chronograph reference photograph
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-30T03:24:59Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:52Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

The Cosmograph Daytona name arrives in 1963 with the [[Reference:6239|6239]]. Rolex had been building chronographs for thirty years by then. The line that runs into the Daytona starts with the late-1930s Antimagnetique chronographs, moves through the Oyster chronograph references of the 1940s and 1950s, and ends with the [[Reference:6238|6238]] Pre-Daytona, which hands the layout to the 6239 with two cosmetic changes.

The thread that ties the line together is the chronograph movement, not the case. Every reference here runs a Valjoux base — Cal. 23 VZ in the Antimagnetique era, Cal. 72 in the late references — finished by Rolex and catalogued under a Rolex caliber number. The case work is what changed: from non-Oyster snap-back cases in the late 1930s, to the one-piece ''Monoblocco'' Oyster of the 3525, to the tonneau Oyster of the 4xxx series, to the screw-down-pusher 6034, and finally to the round 36mm Oyster that defined the Daytona.

[[File:Pre-daytona chronographs vintage poster.webp|thumb|center|400px|alt=Rolex pre-Daytona chronograph reference photograph|Rolex pre-Daytona chronograph featured in Phillips' "Rolex Milestones: 38 Legendary Watches That Shaped History" (Hong Kong 2016, lot 828).]]

== Antimagnetique era (late 1930s to mid-1940s) ==

The earliest Rolex chronographs sit in non-Oyster cases with snap-back construction. They carry the ''Antimagnetique'' designation on the dial for a soft-iron inner case that shielded the movement from magnetic fields, the same protection later watches would carry under the Milgauss line. The layout runs two registers on a Valjoux 23 VZ base, with tachometer and telemeter scales and blued steel hands. The same era produced the WWII POW-watch trade: Rolex shipped chronographs on credit to British and Allied officers held in German prisoner-of-war camps under Hans Wilsdorf's pay-after-the-war policy.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Case !! Movement !! Key distinction
|-
| 2508 || c.1935–1939 || ~32mm round, snap-back, non-Oyster || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 base) || Pre-Oyster Antimagnetique chronograph; small steel and gold examples surface periodically at major-house auction
|-
| [[Reference:3525|3525]] || 1939–1945 || ~35mm Monoblocco Oyster, screw-down crown and pushers || Rolex Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 VZ base) || First Oyster chronograph; one-piece upper case (''Monoblocco'' / ''Barilotto''); the WWII POW reference, with Corporal Clive James Nutting's Stalag Luft III watch sold at Antiquorum 2007 for £66,000
|-
| 3668 || c.1942–1946 || ~36mm Oyster, reeded gold bezel || Rolex Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 VZ base) || Sister reference to the 3525 with a fluted gold bezel; produced in tiny numbers
|-
| 3833 || c.1942–1946 || Oyster || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 VZ base) || Less-documented sibling of the 3525; appears in the Pucci Papaleo and Mondani catalogues alongside the Monoblocco
|}

== Tonneau Oyster chronographs (late 1940s) ==

After the war, Rolex moved the Oyster chronograph from the round Monoblocco case to a tonneau-shaped Oyster with conventional three-piece construction. The 4xxx and 5034 references all run the Valjoux 23 base but in a softer, more ergonomic case shape. Production was small across all of them; the 4500 is the most regularly catalogued example. None of these references reached the volume the 3525 had managed, and the period documentation is thinner than for the references on either side.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Case !! Movement !! Key distinction
|-
| 4099 || c.1946–1948 || Tonneau Oyster, ~35mm || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 base) || Earliest of the post-war tonneau Oyster chronographs; very small production
|-
| 4500 || c.1947–1950 || Tonneau Oyster, ~36mm || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 base) || Most regularly catalogued of the tonneau-case generation; appears in steel and yellow gold
|-
| 4537 || c.1947–1950 || Tonneau Oyster || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 base) || Sibling reference; thin published record
|-
| 4767 || c.1948–1950 || Tonneau Oyster || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 base) || Late tonneau-era reference; surfaces only occasionally at major-house auction
|-
| 5034 || c.1949–1952 || Tonneau Oyster || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 base) || Last of the tonneau Oyster chronographs; bridges into the 6034 generation
|}

== Pre-Cosmograph round Oyster chronographs (1950–1968) ==

The case work returns to a round Oyster in the early 1950s, and the chronograph base shifts from Valjoux 23 to Valjoux 72. Most of the technical change lands on the 6034: first round-Oyster Rolex chronograph, screw-down pushers, anti-magnetic inner case. From there the 6234 runs that configuration through the bulk of the 1950s in steel volume. The 6238 is the immediate predecessor of the Cosmograph, with the same 36mm Oyster case, the same Valjoux 72 base, and the same dial-printed tachymetre. The 6239 in 1963 took the layout, moved the tachymetre to the bezel, and added the Cosmograph signature.

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Case !! Movement !! Key distinction
|-
| 6034 || c.1950–1955 || 36mm round Oyster, anti-magnetic inner case, screw-down pushers || Valjoux 72 base (early variants Valjoux 23) || First round-Oyster Rolex chronograph; screw-down pushers carry forward to the 6240 in 1965
|-
| [[Reference:6234|6234]] || 1955–1961 || 36mm round Oyster, pump pushers || Cal. 72B (Valjoux 72 base) || ~500 watches per year through the run, retailing at roughly USD 200 in period; the immediate predecessor of the 6238
|-
| [[Reference:6238|6238]] || 1962–1968 (overlap with the 6239) || 36mm Oyster, smooth bezel, pump pushers || Cal. 72B then Cal. 722 (Valjoux 72 base) || Pre-Daytona / Pre-Cosmograph; ~3,965 produced (Dewitte) across steel, 14k, and 18k yellow gold; the layout the 6239 inherits
|}

== Triple-calendar parallels ==

Two related references get grouped with the pre-Daytona chronographs but sit on a different mechanical platform, and neither belongs in the direct line that hands off to the Cosmograph Daytona.

The 6036 and 6236 carry the ''Jean-Claude Killy'' nickname, after the French Olympic skier who owned a 6236, and run the Valjoux 72C, the calendar variant of the Valjoux 72. The 6036 came first (c.1951–1957), then the 6236 (1958–1962). Both are chronograph triple-calendar watches, technically demanding and rare. Pucci Papaleo's ''I Cronografi Rolex – La Leggenda'' treats them as their own family rather than a step in the Daytona lineage.

The [[Reference:8171|8171]] ''Padellone'' is a triple-calendar moonphase without a chronograph, and belongs in the pre-Daytona historical context only as a sibling complication.

== Movement and case lineage ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Era !! Movement !! Case construction !! Pushers !! References
|-
| Pre-Oyster (mid-1930s) || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23) || Snap-back, soft-iron Antimagnetique inner case || Pump || 2508
|-
| Monoblocco Oyster (1939–1946) || Rolex Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23 VZ) || One-piece upper case, screw-down caseback || Screw-down (Oyster) || 3525, 3668, 3833
|-
| Tonneau Oyster (late 1940s) || Cal. 13 (Valjoux 23) || Three-piece Oyster, tonneau silhouette || Pump on most || 4099, 4500, 4537, 4767, 5034
|-
| Round Oyster, Valjoux 72 (1950–1968) || Cal. 72B / 722 (Valjoux 72 base) || 36mm round Oyster, anti-magnetic inner case || Screw-down on 6034; pump on 6234 / 6238 || 6034, 6234, 6238
|}

The Cal. 72B to Cal. 722 transition runs through the [[Reference:6238|6238]] itself. First-series 6238 production carried the unstamped Cal. 72B held over from the late 6234; the second-series redesign brought the Rolex-stamped Cal. 722 that then powered the 6239 and 6241. Russell Sheldrake documents the transition in ''Is the Rolex Pre-Daytona a Forgotten Classic?'' for A Collected Man (2020).

The frequency stays at 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), 17 jewels, no hack and no quickset, all the way through to Cal. 727 in 1970, two references beyond the end of this line.

== Why the line matters ==

Every technical move that defines the Daytona was solved on a pre-Daytona reference. Waterproofing came with the 3525. The 4xxx generation softened the case shape, and screw-down pushers arrived on the 6034. Through the 1950s the 6234 carried the line in steel volume. By the 6238 the package was fixed — 36mm round Oyster, pump pushers, dial-printed tachymetre, Valjoux 72 — and the 6239 inherited all of it. Aurel Bacs, in Russell Sheldrake's A Collected Man interview, described the 6238 as "almost a sibling of the Daytona, not a Pre-Daytona": the production windows of the 6238 and 6239 overlap by roughly four years, and the gap between them is two cosmetic changes rather than a clean break.

The market sorts the line accordingly. WWII history and the Monoblocco case carry the 3525, with POW-provenance examples reaching the £60,000–100,000 band at Antiquorum and Sotheby's. The 4xxx tonneau references sell on rarity and case design instead of provenance, and documented examples surface only occasionally at major-house sales. Being the first round-Oyster Rolex chronograph is what the 6034 trades on. The 6234 and 6238 trade on Daytona-adjacency, with clean steel examples consistently above the rest of the pre-Cosmograph line.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]] — the Cosmograph line that begins where this one ends, from the 1963 [[Reference:6239|6239]] through the in-house cal 4130 generation
* [[Reference:3525|Daytona 3525]] — the WWII 'Monoblocco' chronograph
* [[Reference:6234|Daytona 6234]] — pre-Daytona chronograph
* [[Reference:6238|Daytona 6238]] — the "pre-Daytona", direct predecessor to the Cosmograph
* [[Reference:6239|Daytona 6239]] — the first watch to carry the Daytona name
* [[Reference:8171|8171 'Padellone']] — the triple-calendar moonphase sibling
* [[Reference:Movements|Movements]] — the Valjoux 23 family, the Valjoux 72 progression (Cal. 72B / 722 / 727), and the move to Zenith and in-house calibers
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelets]] — the early rivet bracelets (6635, 7205) and end links fitted to the chronograph case across the line

== Sources ==

* [https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/rolex-pre-daytona-forgotten-classic Is the Rolex Pre-Daytona a Forgotten Classic?] — Russell Sheldrake, A Collected Man (2020). Most thorough English-language Pre-Daytona survey, built on first-hand interviews with Aurel Bacs, Edmond Saran, and Teddy Dewitte.
* [https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/interview-aurel-bacs Interview: Aurel Bacs] — A Collected Man (October 2017). Bacs's framing of the 6238 as a Daytona sibling rather than a clean predecessor.
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona, The Emblematic Racing Chronograph] — Erik Slaven, Monochrome (December 2024). Family-level long-form covering the Pre-Daytona handoff.
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/in-depth-review-rolex-6238-pre-daytona/ In-Depth Review: Rolex 6238 Pre-Daytona] — Edmond Saran, Le Monde Edmond (June 2016). First major scholarly examination of the 6238; cataloged 14 distinct dial / case iterations.
* ''I Cronografi Rolex – La Leggenda'' — Pucci Papaleo. Italian-language reference catalogue covering the full chronograph line including the Antimagnetique era and the Jean-Claude Killy 6036 / 6236.
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra. Comprehensive vintage Rolex reference covering 1442 references, including the pre-Daytona chronograph line.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/ Antiquorum — Rolex 3525 Nutting POW lot] (2007). Corporal Clive James Nutting Stalag Luft III watch with full archive, sold £66,000.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/ Sotheby's — 3525 Monoblocco lot] (2019). Glossy black gilt steel example, case 186,144, c.1942.
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/ Sotheby's — 3525 Monoblocco lot] (2020). Silvered dial steel example, case 372,822, c.1945.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/ Antiquorum — 3525 Mondani Collection lot] (2006). 18K pink gold case 147,854, illustrated in Mondani.
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/ Antiquorum — 3525 Brownlee POW lot] (2023). USAAF 1st Lt Leon W. Brownlee, Stalag 7A Moosburg.
* [https://www.phillips.com/auctions/watches Phillips — 3525 Dickins POW lot]. RAF Wing Commander Douglas S. Dickins.
* [https://www.phillips.com/auctions/watches Phillips — 3668 Valjoux chronograph lot]. Sister reference to the 3525 with reeded gold bezel.
* [https://alpha-hands.com/ Alpha Hands — 3525 case-number research]. Project recording case-number bands across the 1939–1945 production window.
* [https://www.windvintage.com/ Wind Vintage — 3525 POW research].

[[Category:Chronograph]]
[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Family Index]]

Reference:2136

2026-08-11T18:44:05Z

Admin: Fix leaked template placeholder ("2136 example" -> "Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual") in alt/caption

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 2136 — Production, Dials & Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|description=The 2136 is an early Oyster: small, varied, and still more documentary object than settled model line. That is the right way to approach it.
|image=Ref 2136 hero.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T21:04:10Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:11:15Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

Oyster → '''2136'''

The 2136 is an early Oyster: small, varied, and still more documentary object than settled model line. That is the right way to approach it.


[[File:Ref 2136 hero.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual|Rolex 2136 Oyster Perpetual]]
== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 2136
|-
| family
| Oyster (early manual-wind)
|-
| production
| about 1926–1940 (low confidence; see below)
|-
| case shape
| octagonal (primary); cushion (c.1925 example)
|-
| case diameter
| 32×34 mm / 33 mm / 37×31 mm reported across sources
|-
| case materials
| 9ct yellow gold (most common), 9K rose gold, 18K rose gold, stainless steel, nickel silver
|-
| lug style
| fixed wire lugs (soldered, not spring bars)
|-
| bezel
| smooth polished, integral with case form
|-
| crystal
| mineral glass or early acrylic
|-
| movement
| 15-jewel manual, Hunter-type Cal. 10 (10½ lignes), rhodium-plated
|-
| balance
| Rolex "Superbalance," Breguet overcoil, timed in 6 positions
|-
| caseback signatures
| "R.W.C. LTD." and "Oyster Watch Co., Great Britain and U.S.A. Patents"
|}

A second, distinct watch also carries the reference 2136: a c.1960 Precision with Cal. 1400. It is addressed at the end of this article. Everything above this paragraph refers to the early manual-wind Oyster.


== Where it sits in the line ==

The 2136 is a product of Rolex's earliest Oyster catalog. When Hans Wilsdorf assembled the Perregaux/Perret screw-down crown, the Spillmann three-piece case, and the Aegler movement into the thing he trademarked "Oyster" in 1926, there was no reference-number system. Rolex described the initial Oyster range by case shape and size: octagonal or cushion, 28 mm ladies or 32 mm men's, in 9ct, 18ct, or 21K gold, silver, or chromium-plated base metal. Reference numbers arrived later, and when they did, they were applied retroactively to variants already in production.

The 2136 is one of those retroactive designations. The reference covers the men's octagonal Oyster through roughly the end of the 1930s, spanning the transition from the earliest Oyster construction into the beginning of the Bubbleback era. By the time 2136 production wound down, the first Perpetual references (1858, 3131, 3372) had already established the rotor-driven Oyster as Rolex's future. The 2136 is manual-wind throughout. It is, in effect, a dressy survivor from the pre-Perpetual world, kept in production because the British market still wanted small, conservative gold Oysters and Rolex was happy to supply them.

The closest siblings to the 2136 are the other early-reference manual Oysters of the 1930s: 1069, 1147, 1237, 1573, 1880, 2005, and the rest of the cushion-and-octagonal family catalogued in ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual''. None of these references is well documented individually. Production data is sparse, auction appearances are thin, and dealer descriptions blur together. The 2136 is one of the better-surfaced examples in this group primarily because its 9ct gold, British-hallmarked variant turns up regularly at small UK auction houses and on specialist dealer sites.


== What changed across the run ==

Within the 2136's span, the most visible change is material. Early examples, including the unusual c.1925 Antiquorum piece, appear in stainless steel. By the mid-1930s, when Glasgow and Edinburgh hallmarks start showing up on surviving examples, the reference has settled into its most common expression: a small 9ct yellow gold octagonal case, British-hallmarked, retailed through UK jewellers, with a silvered dial and blued leaf hands. Rose gold examples (both 9K and 18K) exist in parallel, and stainless steel surfaces occasionally. A nickel silver variant is documented in dealer listings but is rarely offered at auction.

The movement stays constant across the run. A 10½-ligne Hunter-style manual-wind caliber, fifteen jewels standard, rhodium-plated, with a straight-line lever escapement, a Rolex-patented Superbalance, and a self-compensating Breguet overcoil, timed in six positions for all climates. This is the same movement architecture Rolex used across its early 1930s manual Oysters. The six-position adjustment and Superbalance specification appear on the movement itself and in period advertising: the main technical claim the 2136 makes for itself.

What does not change is the lug configuration. Fixed wire lugs (thin, curved, soldered to the case rather than drilled for spring bars) are a defining visual feature of the early Oyster form. They are present on every 2136 example in the public record. A 2136 with spring-bar lugs is either a very heavily restored case or not a 2136 at all.


== Case and construction ==

[[File:Ref2136_9ct_octagonal.jpg|thumb|right|300px|alt=9ct gold octagonal 2136, early 1930s.|9ct gold octagonal 2136, early 1930s.]]
[[File:Ref2136_18ct_octagonal.jpg|thumb|right|340px|alt=Rolex Oyster 2136 in 18ct gold, octagonal case — the defining early-Oyster form.|Rolex Oyster 2136 in 18ct gold, octagonal case — the defining early-Oyster form.]]

[[File:Ref2136_9ct_cushion.jpg|thumb|right|300px|alt=9ct gold cushion-case 2136 — the alternate shape.|9ct gold cushion-case 2136 — the alternate shape.]]

The 2136 appears in two case shapes, octagonal first and cushion alongside it. The octagonal form is the one collectors care about most because it is both early and visually distinct.

The cushion 2136 sold at Antiquorum in April 1999, dated c.1925, is the lone documented example of that shape in the indexed public record. If the dating is accurate, it pre-dates the Oyster patent grant and suggests either a pre-production piece, a misdated lot, or the reference being applied retroactively to a case from the earliest Oyster experiments. The Antiquorum catalog noted the case was fitted with a dust-protecting cap over the crown, an early-Oyster detail consistent with the pre-1930 period.

Case construction is three-piece: bezel, mid-case, caseback, threaded together. The caseback interior carries the reference number and the period signatures. Two inscriptions appear consistently across surviving examples: "R.W.C. LTD.," short for Rolex Watch Company Limited, and "Oyster Watch Co., Great Britain and U.S.A. Patents." The second is the standard Oyster-era caseback text, citing the patents referenced on the earliest Oyster casebacks and confirming the 2136 as a fully legitimate Oyster case rather than one of the Wilsdorf alternate-brand Oysters (Rolco, Aqua, Oyster Watch Co. standalone) that share some design DNA.

The three-piece construction itself descends directly from François Borgel's 1903 Swiss patent for a hermetic screw case, ''"la lunette, le fond et la carrure se vissant toutes trois sur le garde-poussière"'': bezel, caseback, and middle case all screw onto the movement retaining ring. The 1926 Oyster case is a refinement of this architecture, adding the screw-down crown that Borgel's version lacked. Rolex's own pre-Oyster watches from about 1919–1920 used Borgel-made three-piece cases of this type (Boettcher, ''vintagewatchstraps.com''). The 2136 caseback is structurally a Borgel-lineage case with Rolex's patented crown system added.


=== Dimensions ===

Reported dimensions vary across surviving examples: 32×34 mm, 33 mm excluding crown, and 37×31 mm have all been documented. The variance reflects real production variation across years and materials plus different measurement conventions on a shaped case: width across flats versus width across points, lug-to-lug versus case-only, inclusive or exclusive of the crown. The practical position for collectors: expect a 2136 to wear as a small watch by modern standards, somewhere in the 32–34 mm range on the short axis, with the octagonal form making it look slightly larger on the wrist than its measurement suggests.


== The 15-jewel movement ==

The 2136 uses the usual early Hunter-type Oyster movement architecture. The naming is messy across sources, but the useful spec is stable enough: 15 jewels, Superbalance, and the early Rolex manual-wind format rather than anything later or more standardized.

Six-position adjustment is a meaningful claim for a 1930s wristwatch of this price point. Most contemporary watches of the era were adjusted in three positions, sometimes five. Six-position adjustment was chronometer-grade territory, and Rolex used the specification on its better movements to signal that the Oyster's case and movement both met serious precision standards. Movement plates on surviving 2136s are signed with the Rolex wordmark and the Superbalance designation; a few examples carry additional chronometer markings, though the 2136 was not submitted to official observatory certification as a matter of course.

There is no shock protection in any meaningful sense on these movements. The Rolex-patented Superbalance is a stability design, not a shock-protected balance. Incabloc and KIF arrive later; the A.296 caliber of the late 1940s is Rolex's first shock-protected movement, and the 2136's 10½ Hunter base predates that development by more than a decade.


== Dial variants ==

Surviving 2136 dials span a wider range than the small auction corpus would suggest. Confirmed configurations include:

Silver or white dials with black Arabic numerals and subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock are the most frequently encountered configuration on 9ct British-hallmarked examples: clean, legible, conservative, suited to the UK retail market the reference primarily served.

Two-tone silver-and-black dials carry a silver minute track around a black central zone or vice versa, a restrained Art Deco treatment consistent with period-dress-watch aesthetics.

Matted silver dials with painted Breguet numerals and auxiliary seconds turn up on mid-run examples, particularly rose gold cases from the mid-1930s. Breguet numerals are the distinctive curved, serif-heavy Arabic form.

Radium luminous dials with original luminous Arabic numerals and matching luminous hands are less common on the 2136 than on its sportier Oyster contemporaries, but they are documented. Radium dials on gold 2136 cases tend to show heavy patina, with the radium ageing to orange or brown against the silvered base.

California dials carry half Roman numerals on the upper half and half Arabic on the lower, with radium plots. The California configuration on the 2136 is unusual and probably represents late production (the California patent dates to 1941) or a service-era dial. Rolex's own term for this layout was Error-Proof or High Visibility; the California name came from 1970s–80s refinishers and stuck.

White restored dials are what the name suggests: refinished dials on original cases. Common on the dealer market, and worth substantially less than an original.

Blued steel leaf hands are the most common handset on gold 2136s. The Antiquorum c.1925 cushion example carried blued "Cathédrale" hands, the cathedral-window openwork design typical of very early Oyster production. Black pointed baton hands and blued hands with radium plots are also documented. As with any watch of this age, matching patina between dial and hands is the primary indicator that both are period-original; mismatched aging is the standard tell for a service replacement.


== Auction and dealer record ==

The 2136 has no deep auction history. It has never appeared at Sotheby's, Christie's, Heritage, or Phillips in the indexed record; the public-market trail runs through smaller specialist houses and vintage dealers.

The 2136 has a scattered but real market record. Antiquorum gives the earliest documented public example, Bonhams and several dealers fill out the British-hallmarked gold side, and the wider dealer market shows a modest price range rather than a deep premium market.

The market for the 2136 is modest. Plain 9ct British-hallmarked examples in average condition change hands in the EUR 1,000–2,500 range today; original-dial rose gold pieces and anything with distinctive period hands (Cathédrale, early radium) can reach the upper end of the range or slightly beyond. There is no auction-driven hype market here. The 2136 is a collector-curious watch, not a flipper watch.


== The Gleitze question ==

Because the 2136 is an early 9ct gold octagonal Oyster, and because Mercedes Gleitze wore an early 9ct gold octagonal Oyster during her 1927 Channel swims, the two are frequently conflated in casual references. That conflation is wrong.

Gleitze's watch was reference 34075, not 2136. Sotheby's Geneva confirmed that in ''Important Watches Part I'' (9 November 2025, Lot 134), cataloguing it as a pre-production Oyster prototype in 9ct gold with an octagonal case, wire lugs, Glasgow 1926/1927 import marks, and the engraved caseback naming Mercedes Gleitze and the Vindication Channel Swim of 21 October 1927. The dial carries the "7 World's Records / Patent Applied for 114948 / Oyster Patent winding crown" text. Inside is a 9¾′′′ Hunter movement later service-updated to Cal. 600. The watch sold for CHF 1,392,000.

The overlap is real, but the watches are not the same. Both are early 9ct gold octagonal Oysters with wire lugs and R.W.C. LTD. caseback stamps because both belong to Rolex's first Oyster architecture. The 34075 predates the reference system and was issued to Gleitze as a pre-production watch. The 2136 is the later catalog reference for related production pieces. Best current reading: the 2136 is a production cousin of the Gleitze watch, not the Gleitze watch itself.

Some dealer listings conflate the two. The 2136 is not the Gleitze watch. The correct frame: the 2136 is a production cousin of the Gleitze watch, not the Gleitze watch itself.


== The second 2136: c.1960 Cal. 1400 Precision ==

A distinct watch also carries the reference 2136. It surfaces in dealer listings as a c.1960 Rolex Precision with a Cal. 1400 movement (18 jewels, manual-wind) sharing no architectural DNA with the pre-1940 Hunter-type caliber of the early Oyster 2136. The case is typically a round Precision form in the 30–32 mm range, not octagonal or cushion. The Cal. 1400 places the watch in the late 1950s to mid-1960s Rolex manual-Precision production, a parallel universe from the early Oyster.

The later 2136 is thinly documented, and the cleanest reading is that Rolex reused the number. The movement settles the question fast: a 10½ Hunter means the early Oyster watch, while cal. 1400 means the later Precision-era watch. These are different watches that happen to share a reference number.


== Collecting considerations ==

British-hallmarked 9ct gold cases are the most common 2136 configuration, dating through the 1930s with Glasgow, Edinburgh, and Chester marks all appearing regularly. Hallmark dating is the firmer date anchor for this period. Rolex serials in the 1920s–30s ran separate gold and silver series (per Boettcher's research at vintagewatchstraps.com) and the charts that lump them together are noisy, so a hallmark will generally beat a serial lookup.

Unrestored original dials are the exception. Most surviving 2136 dials have been refinished at some point, often multiple times, and the UK refinishers active through the mid-twentieth century produced work that is hard to distinguish from original without side-by-side comparison to documented period examples. An original dial with even patina, matching hand aging, and period-correct printing carries a substantial premium, but verification is specialist territory.

Fixed wire lugs are a defining structural feature. The lugs are soldered integrally to the case; replacing them with spring-bar lugs would require substantial case modification, so a 2136 with spring-bar lugs is not period-correct. Straps are fitted with loops over or around the wire lugs rather than clipped between them, which is normal for the early Oyster form and not evidence of tampering.

Period movements are signed with the Rolex wordmark and typically the Superbalance designation, with six-position adjustment text visible on the plate. An unsigned movement, or one with different caliber architecture, is either a service replacement or a sign that the watch is not what it claims to be.

The indexed dealer range of roughly EUR 750 to 3,200 is a reasonable anchor for current expectations on unremarkable examples. Exceptional condition, retailer co-signing, or distinctive dial configurations can push above that range. The 2136 does not trade in five-figure territory in the normal course; a plain 9ct example at five figures is out of step with the surfaced record.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:2574|Oyster Perpetual 2574]]
* [[Reference:3139|Oyster Perpetual 3139]] — 1938–1947
* [[Reference:3359|Oyster Perpetual 3359]] — 1934–1946
* [[Reference:4220|Oyster Perpetual 4220]]
* [[Reference:5701|Oyster Perpetual 5701]] — 1959–1988

See also the [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-83-146 Antiquorum Geneva — Rolex ref 2136 SS cushion c.1925] — Antiquorum
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auction/29892/lot/89/rolex-a-9k-gold-manual-wind-wristwatch-ref-2136-glasgow-import-mark-for-1937/ Bonhams Lot 89 — Rolex ref 2136 9K gold Glasgow 1937] — Bonhams
* [https://timerediscovered.com/products/rolex-9k-gold-ref-2136-circa-1938 Time Rediscovered — Rolex ref 2136 9K gold c.1938] — Time Rediscovered
* [https://jptimepieces.com/product/ref-2136-18k-rose-gold-octagonal-wristwatch-circa-1930/ JP Timepieces — Rolex ref 2136 18K rose gold octagonal c.1930] — JP Timepieces
* [https://www.bachmann-scher.de/en/sold-watches/rolex-vintage-early-oyster-mercedes-gleitze-ref-2136-9k-rose-gold-bj-1938-7831.html Bachmann & Scher — Rolex ref 2136 9K rose gold 1938 Mercedes Gleitze attribution] — Bachmann & Scher
* [https://www.vintage-wristwatches.co.uk/watches-catalogue/archived-watches/rolex-watches-archive/ Olde Timers / Vintage Wristwatches UK — multiple Rolex ref 2136 octagonal/cushion listings] — Olde Timers, vintage-wristwatches.co.uk
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster/ref-rolex-2136/lpi Collectors Square — Rolex Oyster Ref 2136 Price Index] — Collectors Square
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2025/important-watches-part-i-ge2504/the-companion-oyster-mercedes-gleitze-rolex-oyster Sotheby's Geneva Important Watches Part I GE2504 Lot 134 — Mercedes Gleitze 'The Companion' Rolex Oyster ref 34075] — Sotheby's
* [https://www.windvintage.com/blog/2022/9/7/the-oyster-story Wind Vintage — The Oyster Story (Part 1)] — Owen Lawton / Wind Vintage, Wind Vintage
* [https://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogoystercase.php VintageWatchStraps (David Boettcher) — Rolex Oyster Case, Hermetic, Submarine research] — David Boettcher, vintagewatchstraps.com

[[Category:Oyster]]

Reference:118209

2026-08-11T18:44:04Z

Admin: Strip stray working-draft status category leaked from package.yaml status field

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 36 118209}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 118209 — The Smooth-Bezel White Gold 'Stealth' President | BezelBase
|description=
|image=Ref 118209 hero.webp
|image_alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118209 smooth bezel silver Roman dial on Oyster bracelet
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T00:35:08Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T00:36:00Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

The 118209 is the white-gold smooth-bezel Day-Date 36, and it is the most self-effacing Rolex the catalogue has ever held. White gold with no fluting, a silvered Roman dial with no lume, and a three-piece Oyster bracelet instead of the President: the result looks so much like a steel Datejust that its owners mostly enjoy the fact nobody notices. It is the white-gold counterpart to the yellow-gold [[Reference:118208|118208]], built on the same 6-digit case and caliber 3155, and it ran from 2000 to about 2019.

[[File:Ref 118209 hero.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118209 smooth bezel silver Roman dial on Oyster bracelet|Rolex Day-Date 36 118209 — white gold, smooth bezel and a three-piece Oyster bracelet, the combination that makes it read as steel.]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 118209
|-
| family
| Day-Date (Day-Date 36, 6-digit)
|-
| production
| 2000 to about 2019
|-
| movement
| caliber 3155, double quickset, COSC
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k white gold
|-
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
|-
| bezel
| smooth, gently domed
|-
| bracelet
| white-gold Oyster three-piece, reference 73859; President also catalogued
|-
| dial
| silvered Roman the standard; silver diamond, black, blue, white, purple, brown, red, "Wave", cherry and mother-of-pearl documented
|-
| crown
| screw-down, Twinlock
|-
| siblings
| 118208 (yellow gold, smooth), 118206 (platinum, smooth), 118239 (white gold, fluted), 118139 (white gold, strap)
|-
| successor
| none direct; the 2019 caliber-3255 Day-Date 36 dropped the white-gold smooth
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The Day-Date exists to be recognised. It is the President, it only comes in precious metal, and the fluted bezel and the heavy gold bracelet are how it announces that from across a room. The 118209 removes every one of those signals while keeping the watch underneath, and that is the whole idea.

Within the 6-digit generation it is the white-gold member of the smooth-bezel branch: the [[Reference:118208|118208]] in yellow gold, the 118206 in platinum with its ice-blue dial, and the 118209 in white. Against its own fluted sibling the [[Reference:118239|118239]] it gives up all the visual weight and keeps the case, the movement and the day aperture. The smooth bezel was always the minority taste across the line, and in white gold it is the minority of a minority, which is why the reference is thin on the ground compared with the fluted models.

==Production outline==

The 118209 ran from 2000, when the 6-digit references replaced the 5-digit line, through to about 2019. Documented examples cluster in the early part of that window, with dated watches recorded from 2000, 2001, 2002, 2004 and 2005, and the reference is easier to find from those years than from the 2010s. Rolex has published no production figure.

Nothing replaced it directly. The caliber-3255 Day-Date 36 that arrived in 2019 kept the fluted references across the metals and let the white-gold smooth lapse, exactly as it did with the yellow-gold [[Reference:118208|118208]]. The plain-bezel Day-Date 36 ended with the 118xxx generation.

==Movement notes==

Caliber 3155 drives the 118209: the double-quickset Day-Date movement, COSC certified, with day and date both advanced from the crown and a hacking seconds hand. Later production carries the blue Parachrom hairspring that Rolex rolled across the catalogue from around 2005. It is the same movement as the fluted [[Reference:118239|118239]] and the yellow-gold [[Reference:118208|118208]]; the bezel is the only thing that separates the 118209 from its fluted twin. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:118238|118238]] entry covers the 3155 in detail.

==Dial map==

[[File:Ref 118209 dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118209 silvered dial with applied Roman numerals and no lume|The standard dial: silvered, applied white-gold Roman numerals, no luminous material, and hands carrying a black enamel stripe in place of a lume channel.]]

The standard 118209 carries a silvered dial with applied white-gold Roman numerals, no luminous material at all, and hands with a black enamel stripe down their length instead of a lume channel. That combination is deliberate and it is worth understanding: lume plots would break the dress-watch line, so Rolex left them off, and the enamel stripe exists to give the hands definition against a silver dial without them.

Beyond the silvered Roman, black, blue, white, purple, brown and red dials are all documented on the reference, as are silver dials with diamond hour markers and mother-of-pearl dials with diamond settings. The "Wave" dial, a rippled pattern Rolex used on Day-Dates of the early 2000s, turns up on white-gold 118209 examples of that period and is the most distinctive of the printed patterns. Deeper dial taxonomy across the President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry; on a watch this plain the dial is most of what there is to choose.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

The case is the 36mm white-gold Oyster of the 6-digit generation, with its broader lugs and fully polished flanks, a screw-down caseback, a screw-down Twinlock crown and a sapphire crystal with a Cyclops over the date. Later examples carry the engraved rehaut that Rolex introduced across the catalogue in the second half of the 2000s.

The bezel is smooth and gently domed, polished white gold with no fluting. On a yellow-gold case a smooth bezel still reads as gold; on white gold it removes the last thing that distinguishes the watch from steel at a glance. Weight gives it away in the hand, and the caseback and bracelet carry the 18K stamps, but on the wrist it passes. Whether that is a feature or a waste of white gold is the argument the reference has always provoked.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

[[File:Ref 118209 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118209 caseback and white gold Oyster bracelet with 18K stamp|Caseback and bracelet. The 18K stamp on the end link is one of the few external cues that the watch is not steel.]]

The 118209 is an Oyster-bracelet watch in practice. The fitting recorded on examples is the white-gold three-piece Oyster, bracelet reference 73859, and it does as much as the bezel to disguise the watch. The President bracelet appears as a catalogue option and examples on it are described in the market, but the Oyster is what the documented watches wear, and it is the pairing that gives the reference its character.

Clasp descriptions vary between a plain folding Oysterclasp and a concealed folding Crownclasp, which is consistent with both fittings having been available over a nineteen-year run. As with any of these, a clasp date code dates the bracelet rather than the watch head, and decades of service can put a later bracelet on an earlier watch. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]].

==Special branches==

===The stealth President===

The 118209 is the clearest example of a small Rolex tradition: the precious-metal watch built to look like the steel one. A white-gold case, a smooth bezel and an Oyster bracelet strip out every cue that says Day-Date except the day window itself, and the day window is the one thing that cannot be removed. Collectors who buy this reference tend to buy it precisely for that gap between what it is and what it looks like.

===The white-gold smooth as an endpoint===

The plain-bezel Day-Date did not survive the move to caliber 3255. Rolex carried the fluted references forward in yellow gold, white gold, Everose and platinum, and let the smooth-bezel versions go, so the 118209 closes the white-gold smooth thread rather than handing it on. The platinum 118206 is the only smooth-bezel Day-Date 36 whose look continued, and even that changed: the platinum Day-Date 36 that arrived in 2019 wears a fluted platinum bezel.

==Market==

The 118209 trades through dealers and the certified-pre-owned market and reaches the catalogued auctions only occasionally. Asking prices for good examples with box and papers sit in the mid-twenties of thousands of dollars, which puts it in the same band as the fluted white-gold references rather than at a discount, and the reference's scarcity does more for its price than its plainness does against it. Diamond-set and mother-of-pearl dials sit above the band; plain silvered Roman examples define it.

The auction record is thin enough to list in full, and both results are recent.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| June 2026
| Sterling Vault Auctioneers
| 36mm 18k white gold, silver dial
| USD 22,994
|-
| June 2026
| Monaco Legend Group
| 36mm 18k white gold, black dial
| USD 20,608
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:118208|Day-Date 118208]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118239|Day-Date 118239]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118238|Day-Date 118238]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118139|Day-Date 118139]] — 2013–2019
* [[Reference:118235|Day-Date 118235]] — 2005–2019
* [[Reference:18208|Day-Date 18208]] — 1988–2000

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.chrono24.com/rolex/ref-118209.htm Chrono24, "Rolex Day-Date 36 118209 — Chrono24 reference page", Chrono24]
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-day-date-118209-white-gold-w2039 Bulang and Sons, "Rolex Day-Date 118209 White Gold Smooth Bezel Silver Dial", Bulang and Sons]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-day-date-ref-118209-white-gold.html Bob's Watches, "Used Rolex Day-Date 118209, 18k white gold, smooth bezel — Bob's Watches", Bob's Watches]
* [https://everywatch.com/rolex/118209 EveryWatch, "Rolex Day-Date 118209 — auction results and dealer index, EveryWatch", EveryWatch, 2026]
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m128236-0011 Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 128236, platinum with fluted bezel — rolex.com model data (m128236-0011)", Rolex, 2023]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/caliber/3155 WatchBase, "Rolex caliber 3155 (registry page)", WatchBase]
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/thewatchclub/2024/01/25/generations-rolex-president-day-date/ SwissWatchExpo editorial, "Generations of the Rolex President Day-Date", SwissWatchExpo, 2024]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-day-date-a-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/exploring-evergreens-the-rolex-day-date-18238/ Fratello editorial, "Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Day-Date 18238", Fratello Watches]

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:118139

2026-08-11T18:44:04Z

Admin: Strip stray working-draft status category leaked from package.yaml status field

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Day-Date 36 118139}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Day-Date 118139 — White Gold on Leather, Lapis & Cherry Dials | BezelBase
|description=
|image=Ref 118139 hero.webp
|image_alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118139 blue dial on blue alligator strap
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T00:35:06Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T00:35:56Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

The 118139 is the white-gold strap Day-Date 36. It uses the same 36mm 18k white gold case and fluted bezel as the President-bracelet [[Reference:118239|118239]], and hangs it on an alligator strap closed by a folding gold clasp. Rolex added the strap-mounted Day-Dates to the line at Baselworld 2013 alongside the yellow-gold [[Reference:118138|118138]] and the Everose 118135. Where the yellow-gold version took the warm colours, the white-gold one took the cold ones: blue, cherry, rhodium, and a lapis lazuli stone dial. Caliber 3155, made to about 2019.

[[File:Ref 118139 hero.webp|thumb|right|300px|alt=White gold Rolex Day-Date 118139 blue dial on blue alligator strap|Rolex Day-Date 36 118139 in 18 ct white gold — blue sunburst dial, fluted bezel, matching blue alligator strap.]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 118139
|-
| family
| Day-Date (Day-Date 36, 6-digit)
|-
| production
| 2013 to about 2019
|-
| movement
| caliber 3155, 28,800 vph, blue Parachrom hairspring, double quickset, COSC
|-
| case
| 36mm 18k white gold, monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback
|-
| crystal
| sapphire with Cyclops
|-
| bezel
| fluted
|-
| strap
| alligator leather; Rolex's spec sheets name a folding Oysterclasp, its catalogue prose an 18 ct gold Crownclasp
|-
| dial
| blue, cherry, rhodium, lapis lazuli, white carousel catalogued; white Roman also documented
|-
| crown
| screw-down, Twinlock
|-
| water resistance
| 100 metres
|-
| siblings
| 118239 (white gold, President bracelet), 118138 (yellow-gold strap), 118135 (Everose strap), 118209 (white gold, smooth bezel)
|-
| successor
| none direct; the caliber-3255 strap Day-Date 36 references that arrived in 2021 are fully gem-set
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 118139 is what happens when the white-gold Day-Date loses its bracelet. Everything from the lugs inward is the [[Reference:118239|118239]]: the same 36mm white-gold Oyster case, the same fluted bezel, the same caliber 3155. The strap is the whole difference, and it is a bigger one than it sounds. A gold President bracelet accounts for much of what a Day-Date weighs and much of what it costs, so taking it off produces a lighter, cheaper, less ceremonial watch out of unchanged parts.

White gold sharpens that further. A yellow-gold Day-Date on leather still reads as a gold watch; a white-gold one on a dark alligator strap mostly reads as a dress watch that happens to be precious metal. That understatement is the reason to want one, and it is the same instinct that produced the smooth-bezel [[Reference:118209|118209]] on the bracelet side of the catalogue.

==Production outline==

Rolex introduced the strap Day-Date 36 at Baselworld 2013, well into the run of the 118xxx case generation that began in 2000. The 118139 belongs to that 2013 group rather than to the start of the generation, so it is a watch of the 2010s. It ran to about 2019, when the caliber-3255 references took over the Day-Date 36.

Nothing plain replaced it. When a strap Day-Date 36 returned at Watches and Wonders in 2021 it came only in fully gem-set form, so the 118139 and its two siblings remain the only Day-Date 36 references offered on leather with an ordinary bezel and an ordinary dial. Rolex has published no production figure.

==Movement notes==

The 118139 runs caliber 3155, the double-quickset Day-Date movement, beating at 28,800 vph with the paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and bidirectional winding through the Perpetual rotor. Day and date both set from the crown, and the seconds hack. It is the same movement as the bracelet-mounted [[Reference:118239|118239]] and the yellow-gold [[Reference:118138|118138]]; the strap changes the watch, not the mechanism. The [[Reference:Movements]] page holds the caliber lineage, and the [[Reference:118238|118238]] entry covers the 3155 in detail.

One detail dates an example from its paperwork rather than its movement. Rolex's earlier spec sheet for the reference certifies it as an officially certified Swiss chronometer to COSC; the later one reads "Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)". That is Rolex redefining what Superlative Chronometer meant across the catalogue from 2015, not two different calibers.

==Dial map==

[[File:Ref 118139 cherry.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118139 cherry dial on bordeaux alligator strap|The cherry dial on a bordeaux strap — the boldest of the five catalogued configurations.]]

Five dials are documented in Rolex's own catalogue for the 118139, and they are the clearest evidence of what the white-gold strap version was meant to be.

The blue sunburst is the signature, sold on a matching blue alligator strap, and it is the configuration most people picture. The cherry, a saturated red-purple, came on a bordeaux strap and is the boldest of the set. Rhodium is the conservative choice, a plain grey-silver that leans hardest into the dress-watch reading. The white carousel adds a textured, spun pattern. The outlier is lapis lazuli, a genuine hardstone dial, and the only one of the five where the dial rather than the strap is the reason to buy the watch.

Beyond the catalogued five, white Roman-numeral examples on brown alligator turn up on the market, so the range on the ground is wider than the five configurations Rolex kept online. Deeper dial taxonomy across the President line sits on the [[Reference:1803|1803]] entry.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

[[File:Ref 118139 white roman.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 118139 white Roman dial showing the fluted white gold bezel|A white Roman example on brown alligator. The fluting on the white-gold bezel reads as a fine ribbed ring rather than a bright sunburst.]]

The case is the 36mm white-gold Oyster of the 6-digit Day-Date: monobloc middle case, screw-down caseback, screw-down Twinlock crown, sapphire crystal with a Cyclops over the date, waterproof to 100 metres. The lugs carry a strap instead of an end link, and that is the only structural departure from the bracelet references.

The bezel is fluted. This is worth stating plainly because dealer listings routinely describe the strap Day-Dates as smooth-bezel watches, and photographs of real examples show the fluting as clearly as Rolex's own spec sheet prints it. On white gold the fluting reads as a fine ribbed ring rather than the bright sunburst it makes on yellow gold, which is probably where the confusion starts.

==Strap and clasp==

The 118139 wears an alligator strap in a colour matched to the dial, and the clasp is where Rolex contradicts itself. The downloadable spec sheets list the fitting as a folding Oysterclasp; the catalogue text on the same product pages describes an 18 ct gold Crownclasp, the concealed folding buckle that hides under a crown medallion. Both descriptions are Rolex's, published at the same time about the same watch, and no third source resolves them. In practice the strap is a wear item and gets replaced, so the clasp on a given example dates that example's last strap change rather than the watch.

The cross-family bracelet detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets]]. The strap Day-Dates sit apart from the President-bracelet references covered there.

==Special branches==

===The lapis lazuli dial===

Lapis is the one 118139 that a collector would chase for the dial alone. Rolex cut stone dials in small numbers across the Day-Date line, and the deep blue of lapis against a white-gold case and a dark strap is the most striking combination the reference offered. It sits apart from the four metallic and lacquer dials in both rarity and price.

===The quiet one of the 2013 trio===

Of the three strap Day-Dates launched in 2013, the yellow gold gets the attention, on the strength of the cognac and green dials that came with it. The white gold is the one that disappears on the wrist. That is either the point of the watch or the reason it sold in smaller numbers, depending on which collector is asked, and both readings show up in how the two references trade.

==Market==

The 118139 is a modern reference that changes hands through the dealer and certified-pre-owned market rather than under the hammer; no headline auction lot has surfaced for it. Documented asking prices sit in the mid-twenties of thousands of dollars for a standard catalogued dial in good order with its box and papers, which places it below the white-gold President-bracelet [[Reference:118239|118239]] by roughly the value of the gold bracelet it does without. The lapis lazuli and any gem-set configuration carry premiums above that band. As with the rest of the strap group, the dial drives the price and the strap itself is worth nothing, because it will have been replaced.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:118138|Day-Date 118138]] — 2013–2019
* [[Reference:118239|Day-Date 118239]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118238|Day-Date 118238]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118209|Day-Date 118209]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118208|Day-Date 118208]] — 2000–2019
* [[Reference:118235|Day-Date 118235]] — 2005–2019

See also the [[Reference:day-date|Day-Date family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [http://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m118139-0004.pdf Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 118139, Oyster 36 mm white gold, blue dial — rolex.com model spec sheet (m118139-0004)", Rolex, 2016]
* [http://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m118139-0007.pdf Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 118139, Oyster 36 mm white gold, cherry dial — rolex.com model spec sheet (m118139-0007)", Rolex, 2017]
* [http://www.rolex.com/watches/day-date/m118139-0073.html Rolex S.A., "Rolex Day-Date 36 ref. 118139 model pages — rolex.com (m118139-0053 rhodium, -0073 lapis lazuli, -0077 white carousel)", Rolex, 2018]
* [https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-white-gold-day-date-118139.html Bob's Watches, "Rolex White Gold Day-Date 118139, white Roman dial on brown alligator — Bob's Watches", Bob's Watches]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://watchbase.com/rolex/caliber/3155 WatchBase, "Rolex caliber 3155 (registry page)", WatchBase]
* [https://www.swisswatchexpo.com/thewatchclub/2024/01/25/generations-rolex-president-day-date/ SwissWatchExpo editorial, "Generations of the Rolex President Day-Date", SwissWatchExpo, 2024]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-day-date-1956-present-president-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome editorial, "In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Day-Date, The Presidential Watch", Monochrome Watches]
* [https://italianwatchspotter.com/the-history-of-the-rolex-day-date/?lang=en Italian Watch Spotter editorial, "The History of the Rolex Day-Date", Italian Watch Spotter]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/the-rolex-day-date-a-complete-collectors-guide Sotheby's editorial, "The Rolex Day-Date: A Complete Collector's Guide", Sotheby's]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/exploring-evergreens-the-rolex-day-date-18238/ Fratello editorial, "Exploring Evergreens: The Rolex Day-Date 18238", Fratello Watches]
* [https://mondanibooks.com/rolex-day-date-history/ ''Rolex Day-Date Volume (Mondani Editore)'' — Mondani Family, Guido Mondani Editore]

[[Category:Day-Date]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:6075

2026-08-11T18:44:03Z

Admin: Strip stray Drafted status category, never meant for reader-facing pages

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6075 Bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Bubbleback 6075 (1950–1953) — Production & Dial Guide | BezelBase
|description=The 6075 is the reference that closes a chapter. Produced from 1950 through 1953 in 36mm yellow gold (most common) and pink gold (rarer), it is the last…
|keywords=Rolex, 6075, Bubbleback, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 6075 hero.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex 6075 Datejust steel + pink gold
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T22:36:56Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:13:23Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] -> '''6075'''

The 6075 is the reference that closes a chapter. Produced from 1950 through 1953 in 36mm yellow gold (most common) and pink gold (rarer), it is the last Big Bubbleback Ovettone to leave the factory without the word "Datejust" on its dial. The successor is the 1953 ref 6105, which picks up the same case, the same family of movement, and adds the script word above six that gives the Datejust its name. Everything the 6105 introduces architecturally is already present on the 6075. The difference is three letters under the chapter ring.

[[File:Ref 6075 hero.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6075 Datejust steel + pink gold|Rolex 6075 Datejust steel + pink gold]]


== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6075
|-
| family
| Datejust / Big Bubbleback / Ovettone
|-
| production
| about 1950–1953
|-
| case diameter
| 36mm (tonneau Oyster, Ovettone profile)
|-
| case construction
| three-piece, screw-down caseback and crown
|-
| case materials
| 18K yellow gold (most common); 18K pink/rose gold (rarer)
|-
| bezel
| fine milled/reeded gold (precursor to the Datejust fluted bezel)
|-
| crystal
| acrylic, domed
|-
| crown
| screw-down Brevet
|-
| movement
| Cal. A.295 (listed as Cal. 740 / Cal. 745 in parts catalogues)
|-
| date complication
| yes — date at 3 o'clock, gradual creep at midnight
|-
| Cyclops
| no (introduced on ref 6305 in 1954)
|-
| "Datejust" text on dial
| no — last pre-"Datejust"-text Ovettone; ref 6105 (1953) is first to carry it
|-
| coronet logo
| last reference to use the "cut-off" truncated coronet
|-
| scholarly status
| "true Ovettone" under both narrow (Le Monde Edmond) and broad readings
|}


== What the 6075 is ==

The 6075 is a 36mm Big Bubbleback Datejust made from 1950 into 1953, overlapping with the introduction of the 6105. Within the Ovettone line it is the settled form: curved case flanks, larger Brevet crown, fine milled bezel, A.295 automatic with slow-creep date at 3 o'clock, Jubilee bracelet option, no Cyclops. All of that carries forward unchanged into the 6105. The 6075's specific status in collector literature is that it is the last Ovettone to which everyone agrees the pre-"Datejust"-text description applies cleanly. After the 6075, the next reference is one where the word appears.

The reference also carries the last generation of one specific dial detail: the "cut-off" truncated coronet logo. Earlier Ovettone references, and earlier Bubblebacks generally, use a coronet where the base of the crown appears truncated at the dial's printed line. The 6305 and the modern Datejust line use a full coronet with a clear base. The 6075 is the last reference where the truncated form remains standard.


== Placing the 6075 in the Ovettone sequence ==

The full Ovettone arc runs: 4467 (1945) → 5028 / 5030 / 5031 (1947–48) → 6030 / 6031 (1949) → 6074 / 6075 (1950–1953) → 6105 (1953, first "Datejust" text) → 6305 (1954, first Cyclops) → 6604 / 6605 (1956–57, first instantaneous date via Cal. 1065). The 6075 is the closing reference of the pre-6105 era. The narrow dealer reading of "true Ovettone" names it as one of four (with 4467, 6031, 6074) that carry the term unambiguously, and the broader usage by Italian auction houses (Pandolfini, Aste Bolaffi) and [https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Le Monde Edmond] (Edmond Saran, 2022) covers the full 5028–6075 range. The 6075 sits inside both readings.

Of the four "true Ovettone" references, 4467 is the founder, 6031 is the 1949 pink-gold entry, 6074 is the 1950 platinum rarity (only about two examples documented), and the 6075 is the yellow-gold and pink-gold production reference for 1950–1953. It is the Ovettone an ordinary collector is most likely to find. Surviving population is larger than the 4467 because production ran three years rather than one, and larger than the 6074 because platinum output was negligible. The 6075 is the accessible anchor of the narrow-definition Ovettone cluster.


== The 36mm Big Bubbleback case ==

Case architecture is the settled Ovettone form. Three-piece Oyster construction with a 36mm tonneau diameter, domed caseback housing the Perpetual rotor, fine milled or reeded bezel in matching gold, acrylic domed crystal, screw-down Brevet crown with cross-center and "Rolex + Oyster" marking. Curved case flanks between the lugs (the 50xx straight-flank experiment is in the past). Nothing architectural separates a 6075 from the incoming 6105 at the case level; the difference between the two references is not the case.

The fine milled or reeded bezel is the immediate precursor to the Rolex Datejust fluted bezel that becomes a signature element in the 1960s. The 6075's bezel reads as a less pronounced version of that fluting, the same idea, executed with shallower cuts. By the 6305 (1954) and the 1601 family of the 1960s, Rolex sharpens the cut and the bezel takes its canonical form. The 6075 is in the lineage directly rather than as an outlier.


== Precious metal and configuration ==

The 6075 is precious metal only. 18K yellow gold is the common execution (surviving population is biased heavily toward yellow) with 18K pink/rose gold as a rarer variant. No steel or two-tone configurations of the 6075 are documented; the platinum Ovettone of the same generation carries a separate reference (6074).

Dial configurations follow late-Ovettone conventions. Silvered or eggshell dials with applied gold dagger markers dominate. The "cut-off" truncated coronet logo is the standard for this reference, and the 6075 is the last production reference where it is. Chronometer and Certified Chronometer text above six on chronometer-grade examples. Luminous and non-luminous variants both documented. Hands are gold alpha hands with radium inserts on lumed configurations, plain polished gold on dress configurations.

Date wheels on 6075 examples are typically black on white. Roulette wheels (alternating red/black) persist from earlier Ovettone peers but are less common by 1950–1953 and give way to the standard black-on-white in the 6105 generation. Period-correct bracelets are the 18K gold Jubilee (introduced with 4467 in 1945) or a leather strap with gold buckle.


== Movement: Cal. A.295 ==

Cal. A.295, unchanged from the 4467 through the 5030/5031 transitional pair and the 6030/6031 pair. 29.5mm diameter (the "295"). Parts-catalogue cross-listings: Cal. 740 (base grade), Cal. 745 (Chronometer grade). The auction-house convention is A.295 and that form appears most often in sales catalogues. The parts-catalogue form (740 / 745) is what a watchmaker working on the movement would reference. Both name the same movement.

Architecturally: self-winding Perpetual rotor, 18 jewels, Rolex Superbalance, Breguet overcoil hairspring, center seconds, date. No shock protection. No quickset. Slow creep at midnight rather than instantaneous snap-change. The movement does not change under the 6075; what changes is what comes after. The A.296 of the 6105 is a 29.6mm evolution of the same family, with different dial feet positions. A 6075 dial fits an A.295 movement and does not fit an A.296. The converse is true for the 6105.

The instantaneous snap-change arrives with Cal. 1065 in refs 6604/6605 in 1956–57 and the Bubbleback silhouette ends with the flatter Cal. 1030 that precedes it. The 6075 is three generations of movement away from that ending, and four years away from the last Ovettone leaving the factory.


== The dial: the absence of "Datejust" ==

Dial layout on a 6075 follows the period's standard Rolex Oyster Perpetual arrangement. "ROLEX" centered under the coronet at twelve, "Oyster Perpetual" in a line below, the date window at three, Chronometer or Certified Chronometer designation above six on chronometer-grade examples. What is not there is the word "Datejust." The line above six carries only the chronometer designation; it does not carry the model name. By the 1960s, "Datejust" above six is a recognizable signature element on every Datejust dial. Here, on the 6075, that line is silent.

That silence is the reference-defining feature. A 6075 is identifiable, relative to its immediate successor, by what the dial does not say. Collectors who encounter a 6075 and a 6105 in sequence see that the difference lives entirely in the three letters missing above six. The case, the movement family, the bezel, the bracelet, the markers, the coronet — all the same (allowing for the 6075's truncated coronet versus the 6105's tendency toward the full form). The text is the change.


== Collecting and auction context ==

The 6075 trades in roughly the same range as other late-Ovettone yellow-gold references, about $8,000–$18,000 at auction for clean examples, with configuration, dial originality, bracelet provenance, and paperwork all moving the number. Pink gold 6075 examples carry a premium over yellow; their smaller surviving population supports pricing at the upper end of the range when they surface. Serpico y Laino co-signed dials, as with other mid-century Rolex references distributed through the Caracas retailer, command a further premium.

Auction coverage is steady rather than dramatic. Phillips, Antiquorum, and Sotheby's catalogue 6075 examples periodically under the "Big Bubbleback" or "early Datejust" umbrella; Italian houses use the ''ovettone'' term. Pandolfini in particular has handled documented 6075 lots under Italian auction terminology. The 6075 does not headline sales the way a numbered souscription 4467 or a type-specimen 6105 black gilt dial does, but it is a reference a serious Ovettone collection does not skip.

Market position is stable. Like the broader Ovettone segment, the 6075 has not been a speculative focus of the post-2018 vintage boom, which went to steel sport references. Gold Ovettone references have appreciated steadily. The 6075's position as the last pre-"Datejust"-text Big Bubbleback and as one of the four "true Ovettone" under the narrow definition keeps it in view.


== Authentication priorities ==

Authentication on the 6075 is straightforward. Movement should be A.295, dial should read "Oyster Perpetual" with chronometer text but not "Datejust," and the period coronet is the cut-off style. Cases are 18k yellow or pink gold only, with the early milled Datejust bezel and matching Jubilee or Oyster bracelets when bracelet-fitted. A 6075 with later Datejust dial text or a later caliber is a service swap or a misidentified watch.


== What the 6075 established ==

The 6075 matters not for what it introduces but for what it ends. It is the last reference on which the dial does not say "Datejust"; the next reference, the 6105, puts the word on the dial and every Datejust since has kept it. The clarity with which collector literature can describe the 6105 as the first dial-signed Datejust is a clarity the 6075 provides by being the last one without.

The 6075 also closes the cut-off coronet era. The logo change is minor and easy to miss. The 6305 and the modern Datejust use a full coronet; the 6075 is the last production reference where the truncated form is standard.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:6031|Bubbleback 6031]] — 1949
* [[Reference:5030|Bubbleback 5030]] — 1948
* [[Reference:5031|Bubbleback 5031]] — 1948
* [[Reference:4467|Bubbleback 4467]] — 1945–1949
* [[Reference:3595|Bubbleback 3595]] — 1941–1949
* [[Reference:2940|Bubbleback 2940]] — 1940–1949

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Le Monde Edmond — Datejust: A Closer Look at a Rolex Icon] — Le Monde Edmond
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-datejust-complete-history/ Monochrome Watches — The Evergreens: Complete History of the Rolex Datejust] — Monochrome
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Robb Report — A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches 1931-1950s] — Robb Report
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/ Pandolfini Casa d'Aste catalog usage — 'Ovetto' for 32mm Bubblebacks, 'Ovettone' for 36mm Big Bubblebacks] — Pandolfini Casa d'Aste, Pandolfini
* [https://www.astebolaffi.it/ Aste Bolaffi catalog usage of 'Ovetto' for standard 32mm Bubblebacks] — Aste Bolaffi

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:6031

2026-08-11T18:44:03Z

Admin: Strip stray Drafted status category, never meant for reader-facing pages

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6031 Bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Bubbleback 6031 (1949) — Production & Dial Guide | BezelBase
|description=The 6031 is a one-year 1949 reference and the pink-gold twin of ref 6030. It is one of the four references Le Monde Edmond names under the narrow "true…
|keywords=Rolex, 6031, Bubbleback, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 6031 hero.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex 6031 Ovettone pink gold
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T22:36:53Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:13:20Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] -> '''6031'''

The 6031 is a one-year 1949 reference and the pink-gold twin of ref 6030. Under the narrow dealer reading of "true Ovettone" it sits alongside the [[Reference:4467|4467]], 6074, and [[Reference:6075|6075]] as the only pink-gold entry in that four-reference cluster. Architecturally it returns to the 4467 idiom after the experimental 5030/5031 pair. The curved case flanks are back, the fine milled bezel is back, and the movement is still Cal. A.295. What is new is the slightly larger crown and the settling of the Ovettone form into the shape it holds for the rest of the pre-Datejust-text era.

[[File:Ref 6031 hero.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6031 Ovettone pink gold|Rolex 6031 Ovettone pink gold]]


== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6031
|-
| family
| Datejust / Big Bubbleback / Ovettone
|-
| production
| about 1949
|-
| case diameter
| 36mm (tonneau Oyster, Ovettone profile)
|-
| case construction
| three-piece, screw-down caseback and crown
|-
| case materials
| 18K pink/rose gold
|-
| bezel
| fine milled/reeded pink gold (return to the 4467 idiom)
|-
| crystal
| acrylic, domed
|-
| crown
| screw-down Brevet (larger than the 50xx small crown)
|-
| movement
| Cal. A.295 (listed as Cal. 740 / Cal. 745 in parts catalogues)
|-
| date complication
| yes — date at 3 o'clock, gradual creep at midnight
|-
| Cyclops
| no (introduced on ref 6305 in 1954)
|-
| "Datejust" text on dial
| no (first consistent appearance on ref 6105 in 1953)
|-
| yellow-gold twin
| ref 6030
|-
| scholarly status
| "true Ovettone" under both narrow (Le Monde Edmond) and broad readings
|}


== What the 6031 is ==

The 6031 is a pink-gold 36mm Big Bubbleback Datejust made for about one year in 1949. It comes after the transitional 5030/5031 pair and before the 1950 platinum 6074 and the 1950–1953 yellow-gold 6075. Within the Ovettone line it occupies the position where the architecture settles. The 4467's curvier case flanks return, the bezel is the fine milled gold the 4467 used, and the crown is the larger Brevet that carries through the rest of the pre-6105 era. Cal. A.295 is unchanged from the 5030/5031 and the 4467.

What makes the 6031 notable is that every serious reading of Ovettone includes it. However narrowly or broadly the term is used, the 6031 stays inside the short list.


== Placing the 6031 in the Ovettone sequence ==

The full Ovettone arc runs: 4467 (1945) → 5028 / 5030 / 5031 (1947–48) → 6030 / 6031 (1949) → 6074 / 6075 (1950) → 6105 (1953, first "Datejust" text) → 6305 (1954, first Cyclops) → 6604 / 6605 (1956–57, first instantaneous date via Cal. 1065). The 6031 is the pink-gold entry in the 1949 pair, twin to the yellow-gold 6030.

The 6031 is the first pink-gold Ovettone made after Rolex treated the form as settled. The 5031 preceded it as the 1948 experimental pink-gold; the 6031 is where Rolex commits. After the 6031, pink-gold Ovettones continue through the 6075 era before the arrival of the 6105 and the dial-signed Datejust era. In that window the 6031 is the pink-gold reference a serious Ovettone collector wants.


== The 36mm Big Bubbleback case — back to the 4467 form ==

Case architecture on the 6031 returns to the 4467's form after the 5030/5031 straight-flank deviation. Three-piece Oyster construction, 36mm diameter, the domed caseback that houses the rotor, and the fine milled or reeded bezel in matching pink gold. The case flanks between the lugs are curved rather than straight — the signature that distinguishes the 6031 visually from the 5031 and indicates that Rolex has committed to the form that carries forward into the 6074, 6075, and 6105.

The crown on the 6031 is larger than the 50xx small Brevet. The newer crown sits more naturally on a 36mm case and is the standard across the 60xx Ovettone generation. Cross-center marking, "Rolex + Oyster" brevet designation.


== Pink gold and configuration ==

The 6031 is pink-gold only; the yellow-gold twin carries ref 6030. Dial configurations follow the broader Ovettone conventions with pink-gold matching: silvered or eggshell dials with applied pink gold dagger markers, pink gold alpha hands with radium inserts on lumed configurations, plain polished pink gold hands on dress configurations. Bubbleback coronet variants, including the "cut-off" truncated form, are documented alongside the full coronet. Chronometer and Certified Chronometer text above six on chronometer-grade examples.

Date wheels on 6031 examples are typically black on white. Roulette wheels (alternating red/black) appear sporadically in the broader Ovettone window and are documented on some 60xx peer examples. Period-correct bracelets are the 18K pink gold Jubilee or a leather strap with pink gold buckle.

No steel, two-tone, or yellow-gold 6031 configurations are documented.


== Movement: Cal. A.295 ==

Cal. A.295, unchanged from the 5031 and the 4467. 29.5mm diameter. Parts-catalogue cross-listings are Cal. 740 (base) and Cal. 745 (Chronometer-grade). Self-winding Perpetual rotor, 18 jewels, Rolex Superbalance, Breguet overcoil hairspring, center seconds, date. No shock protection. No quickset. Slow creep at midnight rather than instantaneous snap-change. Dial feet positions are specific to the A.295 and differ from the A.296 that carries the 6105 and later references.

The A.295 → A.296 transition matters for authentication on adjacent references (a 6031 dial on a 6105 movement is not period-correct) but does not affect the 6031 itself, which sits firmly inside the A.295 generation.


== Authentication priorities ==

Movement should be A.295, with the rest of the watch matching the pink-gold 6031 profile rather than the yellow-gold 6030 or the transitional 5031. That is the fast authenticity read.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:5030|Bubbleback 5030]] — 1948
* [[Reference:5031|Bubbleback 5031]] — 1948
* [[Reference:4467|Bubbleback 4467]] — 1945–1949
* [[Reference:6075|Bubbleback 6075]] — 1950–1953
* [[Reference:3595|Bubbleback 3595]] — 1941–1949
* [[Reference:2940|Bubbleback 2940]] — 1940–1949

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Le Monde Edmond — Datejust: A Closer Look at a Rolex Icon] — Le Monde Edmond
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-datejust-complete-history/ Monochrome Watches — The Evergreens: Complete History of the Rolex Datejust] — Monochrome
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Robb Report — A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches 1931-1950s] — Robb Report
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/ Pandolfini Casa d'Aste catalog usage — 'Ovetto' for 32mm Bubblebacks, 'Ovettone' for 36mm Big Bubblebacks] — Pandolfini Casa d'Aste, Pandolfini
* [https://www.astebolaffi.it/ Aste Bolaffi catalog usage of 'Ovetto' for standard 32mm Bubblebacks] — Aste Bolaffi

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:5031

2026-08-11T18:44:03Z

Admin: Fix leaked template placeholder ("5031 example" -> "Rolex 5031") in title/alt/caption; strip stray Drafted status category

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5031 "Ovettone" Transitional Bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 5031 "Ovettone" Transitional Bubbleback — BezelBase
|description=The 5031 is the pink-gold twin of the ref 5030 — the one-year bridge between the 1945–1949 ref 4467 and the 1949 ref 6031. Same 36mm case, same A.295…
|keywords=Rolex, 5031, Bubbleback, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 5031 hero.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex 5031 Bubbleback
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T22:36:51Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:12:37Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] -> '''5031'''

The 5031 is the pink-gold twin of the ref 5030, the one-year bridge between the 1945–1949 ref 4467 and the 1949 ref 6031. Same 36mm case, same A.295 automatic movement, same straight case flanks between the lugs, same small Brevet crown carried over from the 32mm Bubblebacks. The architectural difference is the metal, 18K pink or rose gold rather than yellow. Pink gold survivors from this production window are meaningfully scarcer than yellow, and a 5031 surfacing at auction is an event a 5030 is not.

[[File:Ref 5031 hero.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 5031 Bubbleback|Rolex 5031 "Ovettone" Transitional Bubbleback]]


== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 5031
|-
| family
| Datejust / Big Bubbleback / Ovettone
|-
| production
| about 1948 (one-year window)
|-
| case diameter
| 36mm (tonneau Oyster, Ovettone profile)
|-
| case construction
| three-piece, screw-down caseback and crown
|-
| case materials
| 18K pink/rose gold
|-
| bezel
| fine milled/reeded pink gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic, domed
|-
| crown
| small screw-down Brevet (earliest style)
|-
| movement
| Cal. A.295 (listed as Cal. 740 / Cal. 745 in parts catalogues)
|-
| date complication
| yes — date at 3 o'clock, gradual creep at midnight
|-
| Cyclops
| no (introduced on ref 6305 in 1954)
|-
| "Datejust" text on dial
| no (first consistent appearance on ref 6105 in 1953)
|-
| yellow-gold twin
| [[Reference:5030|5030]]
|-
| successor
| [[Reference:6031|6031]]
|}


== What the 5031 is ==

The 5031 is the pink-gold twin to the 5030: same 36mm Big Bubbleback Datejust architecture, same movement, same transitional place in the line, but in 18k pink gold.

Pink and rose gold dress watches were a European preference through the 1940s. Markets in France, Italy, Switzerland, and German-speaking Europe favoured pink for formal wear, and Rolex produced pink-gold twins of most Ovettone references to meet that demand. Survival rates on the pink variants run below yellow, because pink alloys of the period were softer and more prone to polishing-out at service.


== Placing the 5031 in the Ovettone sequence ==

The full Ovettone arc runs: 4467 (1945) → 5028 / 5030 / 5031 (1947–48) → 6030 / 6031 (1949) → 6074 / 6075 (1950) → 6105 (1953, first "Datejust" text) → 6305 (1954, first Cyclops) → 6604 / 6605 (1956–57, first instantaneous date via Cal. 1065). The 5031 sits on the transitional shelf with its yellow-gold twin; the closest direct successor is the 1949 ref 6031, another pink-gold Ovettone that reverts to the 4467's curvier case flanks after the straight-flank 5031 experiment.

Italian auction houses (Pandolfini, Aste Bolaffi) and mainstream dealer usage include the 5030/5031 pair in the Ovettone family, alongside Edmond Saran's 2022 Le Monde Edmond treatment that names the 5030 explicitly. The narrower dealer convention excludes the 50xx pair and reserves the term for 4467, 6031, 6074, and 6075. Both framings coexist in current literature.


== The 36mm Big Bubbleback case — the straight-flank experiment in pink gold ==

Case architecture on the 5031 is identical to the 5030 and follows the same two one-year deviations from the 4467 and 60xx standard: the perfectly straight flanks between the lugs, and the small Brevet crown carried over from the 32mm small Bubblebacks. Three-piece Oyster construction, 36mm diameter, domed caseback housing the Perpetual rotor, fine milled/reeded bezel. In pink gold the straight-flank profile reads slightly differently on the wrist than it does in yellow (the pink alloy's warmer tone softens the visual angularity) but dimensionally the case is the same.

The crown on the 5031 is the small screw-down Brevet in matching pink gold, cross-center, "Rolex + Oyster" marking. By the 1949 60xx generation, Rolex had switched to a larger crown that sat more naturally on the 36mm case. The 5031 is the one pink-gold Big Bubbleback that still wears the old small crown; the 6031 that replaces it in 1949 wears the new one.


== Pink gold and configuration ==

The 5031 is pink-gold only. Period-correct dials match the case metal: silvered or eggshell dials with applied pink gold dagger markers, pink gold alpha hands with radium inserts on the lumed configurations, plain polished pink gold hands on dress configurations. Bubbleback-style coronet logos — often the "cut-off" truncated variant — and Chronometer or Certified Chronometer dial text above six on chronometer-grade examples are both documented.

Date wheels follow the broader Ovettone convention: typically black on white by the 5031 era, with roulette (alternating red/black) wheels documented on some peer examples in the same window. A 5031 with a roulette wheel is not impossible, but it is less common than on earlier 4467 examples.

No steel, two-tone, or yellow-gold 5031 configurations are documented. The pink-gold-only rule is strict for this reference.


== Movement: Cal. A.295 ==

Same as the 5030 mechanically: cal. A.295 in the 740/745 family, with center seconds, date, no shock protection, and the old slow date change rather than a later snap change.

Dial feet positions are specific to the A.295 and differ from the A.296 used in ref 6105 and later. A 5031 dial on an A.296 movement is not period-correct. The Vintage Rolex Forum documentation by specialist Xeramic (thread t-274914) is the standard reference on this check.


== Authentication priorities ==

* Movement. Cal. A.295, cross-listed as Cal. 740 or Cal. 745. A later caliber in a 5031 case is a service swap.
* Case metal. 18K pink/rose gold, consistent across case, crown, bezel, markers, hands, and bracelet (if present). A yellow-gold 5031 claim is a misidentification.
* Crown. Small Brevet, matching pink gold. The larger crown of the 6031 and subsequent Ovettones is not correct for the 5031.
* Case flanks. Straight between the lugs; the 5030/5031 distinguishing feature.
* Bezel. Fine milled or reeded pink gold in the 4467 idiom.
* Dial. "Oyster Perpetual" with Chronometer or Certified Chronometer designation above six on chronometer-grade examples. No "Datejust" text on a period-correct 5031 dial.
* Dial feet position. Specific to A.295.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:5030|Bubbleback 5030]] — 1948
* [[Reference:4467|Bubbleback 4467]] — 1945–1949
* [[Reference:6031|Bubbleback 6031]] — 1949
* [[Reference:3595|Bubbleback 3595]] — 1941–1949
* [[Reference:2940|Bubbleback 2940]] — 1940–1949
* [[Reference:6075|Bubbleback 6075]] — 1950–1953

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Le Monde Edmond — Datejust: A Closer Look at a Rolex Icon] — Le Monde Edmond
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-datejust-complete-history/ Monochrome Watches — The Evergreens: Complete History of the Rolex Datejust] — Monochrome
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Robb Report — A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches 1931-1950s] — Robb Report
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/ Pandolfini Casa d'Aste catalog usage — 'Ovetto' for 32mm Bubblebacks, 'Ovettone' for 36mm Big Bubblebacks] — Pandolfini Casa d'Aste, Pandolfini
* [https://www.astebolaffi.it/ Aste Bolaffi catalog usage of 'Ovetto' for standard 32mm Bubblebacks] — Aste Bolaffi

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:5030

2026-08-11T18:44:02Z

Admin: Fix leaked template placeholder ("5030 example" -> "Rolex 5030") in title/alt/caption; strip stray Drafted status category

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5030 "Ovettone" Transitional Bubbleback}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 5030 "Ovettone" Transitional Bubbleback — BezelBase
|description=The 5030 is a one-year bridge reference. It sits between the 1945–1949 ref 4467 — the first Datejust, the founding Ovettone — and the 1949 ref 6030 that…
|keywords=Rolex, 5030, Bubbleback, specifications, reference guide
|image=Ref 5030 hero.jpg
|image_alt=Rolex 5030 Bubbleback
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-17T22:36:48Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:12:34Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] -> '''5030'''

The 5030 is a one-year bridge reference between the 1945–1949 ref 4467 (the first Datejust, the founding Ovettone) and the 1949 ref 6030 that carries the Big Bubbleback format forward into the 1950s. In that window, roughly 1948, the 5030 inherits the 4467's 36mm case architecture and A.295 automatic movement but alters two specific details: the small Brevet crown carried over from the 32mm Bubblebacks, and perfectly straight case flanks between the lugs. Those two differences are why some collectors read the 5030 and its pink-gold twin 5031 as the purest form of the Ovettone in the range.

[[File:Ref 5030 hero.jpg|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 5030 Bubbleback|Rolex 5030 "Ovettone" Transitional Bubbleback]]


== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 5030
|-
| family
| Datejust / Big Bubbleback / Ovettone
|-
| production
| about 1948 (one-year window)
|-
| case diameter
| 36mm (tonneau Oyster, Ovettone profile)
|-
| case construction
| three-piece, screw-down caseback and crown
|-
| case materials
| 18K yellow gold
|-
| bezel
| fine milled/reeded yellow gold
|-
| crystal
| acrylic, domed
|-
| crown
| small screw-down Brevet (earliest style, carried from the 32mm Bubblebacks)
|-
| movement
| Cal. A.295 (listed as Cal. 740 / Cal. 745 in parts catalogues)
|-
| date complication
| yes — date at 3 o'clock, gradual creep at midnight
|-
| Cyclops
| no (introduced on ref 6305 in 1954)
|-
| "Datejust" text on dial
| no (first consistent appearance on ref 6105 in 1953)
|-
| pink-gold twin
| [[Reference:5031|5031]]
|-
| successor
| 6030
|}


== What the 5030 is ==

The 5030 is a yellow-gold 36mm "Big Bubbleback" Datejust made for about one year in 1948. It sits in the line that starts with the 4467 in 1945 and ends (insofar as the pre-"Datejust"-text era ends) with the 6075 in 1953, bookended at the far side by the 6105 (first dial-signed Datejust) and the 6305 (first Cyclops). Like every reference in that line, it carries the Jubilee bracelet format the 4467 introduced, the fine milled gold bezel that becomes the fluted Datejust bezel, and the Cal. A.295 automatic with slow-creep date at 3 o'clock. What the 5030 does not carry is the word "Datejust" on its dial; that addition is still five years out.

The 5030's contribution to the Ovettone sequence is procedural rather than conceptual. Rolex used the reference to try out a slightly different case profile and crown while keeping everything else the same. The straight-flank case and small Brevet crown ran for a year before Rolex returned to the 4467's curvier profile and larger crown with the 1949 6030/6031 pair.


== Placing the 5030 in the Ovettone sequence ==

The full Ovettone arc runs: 4467 (1945) → 5028 / 5030 / 5031 (1947–48) → 6030 / 6031 (1949) → 6074 / 6075 (1950) → 6105 (1953, first "Datejust" text) → 6305 (1954, first Cyclops) → 6604 / 6605 (1956–57, first instantaneous date via Cal. 1065). Inside that sequence the 5030 sits immediately after the 4467 and immediately before the 60xx references. Its twin 5031 takes the same case and movement in 18K pink gold; the rare 5028 takes a similar case in steel.

Collector usage of "Ovettone" varies. Some writers use it for the full Big Bubbleback family, while others reserve it for the later, more fully settled references. The 5030 sits right on that boundary.


== The 36mm Big Bubbleback case — straight flanks and the small crown ==

Case architecture on the 5030 is basically the 4467 Ovettone profile with one big visual tweak: straighter flanks between the lugs. That detail is why some writers treat the 5030/5031 pair as the purest Ovettone shape.

The crown on the 5030 is also distinct. It is the small screw-down Brevet crown that the 32mm Bubblebacks used: the earliest form of Rolex's screw-down crown, with the "Rolex + Oyster" cross-center marking. By the 60xx Ovettone generation of 1949–1953, Rolex has moved to a larger crown that reads more naturally on the 36mm case. The 5030 is the one Big Bubbleback that still wears the old small crown. In photographs the difference is subtle; on the wrist it registers.

Neither change is a redesign. They are the limits of the variation Rolex applied to a one-year reference before moving on, and they are also what distinguishes the 5030 from its predecessor and successors in a range where references otherwise differ only by metal and decade.


== Precious metal and configuration ==

The 5030 is gold-only. The twin 5031 takes pink gold; the 5030 takes 18K yellow gold exclusively. No steel or two-tone versions of the 5030 are documented; the steel 36mm Ovettone of the era is the separate, very rare ref 5028.

The dial side follows the broader Ovettone conventions of the late 1940s. Standard configurations include silvered or eggshell dials with applied gold dagger or arrowhead markers; the Bubbleback-style coronet logo, often in the "cut-off" truncated form (the full coronet is a later Ovettone feature); and Chronometer or Certified Chronometer text above six on chronometer-grade examples. Luminous and non-luminous variants are both documented. Hands are yellow gold, alpha form, with radium inserts on the lumed examples.

Date wheels on the 5030 are typically black on white. Roulette wheels (alternating red/black numerals) are documented across the broader Ovettone class in this window; they appear on some late 4467s and carry through the 5030 era inconsistently before settling into the standard black-on-white by the end of the 60xx generation.


== Movement: Cal. A.295 ==

The 5030 uses Cal. A.295, the same movement that powered the 4467 from 1945 through its 1949 discontinuation. The "A" denotes automatic; "295" is the movement's 29.5mm diameter. Rolex parts catalogues cross-list the same movement within the 740 / 745 family: Cal. 740 for the base grade, Cal. 745 for the Chronometer grade. Auction houses and the broader collector literature tend to call it A.295. The naming conventions run in parallel; the movement is one movement.

Architecturally: self-winding Perpetual rotor, 18 jewels, rhodium-plated, straight-line lever escapement, Rolex Superbalance, self-compensating Breguet balance spring, center seconds, date. No shock protection. No quickset. The date mechanism is the same gradual-creep design the 4467 used; the date changes over roughly two to four hours spanning midnight, not in a single moment. The instantaneous snap-change arrives with Cal. 1065 in refs 6604/6605 in 1956–57, and the Bubbleback silhouette ends with it.

On the A.295, the dial feet positions are specific to the movement and do not match the A.296 that replaces it in the 6105 generation. A 5030 dial on a 4467 movement fits; a 5030 dial on a 6105 movement does not. For authentication this matters only when verifying that a claimed-original dial matches the case reference, but it matters. The point was documented on the Vintage Rolex Forum by specialist Xeramic in thread t-274914 and is the standard check on transitional Ovettone examples.


== Authentication priorities ==

* Movement. Should be A.295, cross-listed as Cal. 740 or Cal. 745 in parts catalogues. A later caliber (A.296, 1030, 1065) in a 5030 case is a service swap or a misidentified reference.
* Crown. Small Brevet, cross-center, "Rolex + Oyster" marking. The larger crown that appears on the 60xx Ovettone generation is not correct for the 5030.
* Case flanks. Straight between the lugs. This is the 5030/5031 distinguishing feature relative to the 4467 and the 60xx. A curved case flank on a claimed 5030 needs scrutiny.
* Bezel. Fine milled or reeded yellow gold in the 4467 idiom. No fluted or smooth variants are documented for this reference.
* Dial text. "Oyster Perpetual" with Chronometer or Certified Chronometer designation above six. "Datejust" does not appear on a 5030 dial; if it does, the dial is either a service replacement or the claim is a misidentification. Ref 6105 is where "Datejust" dial text becomes consistent.
* Case material. 18K yellow gold only. A pink gold case carries the separate reference 5031; a steel case would be a different reference entirely.
* Dial feet position. Specific to A.295. A 5030 dial on an A.296 movement is not period-correct.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:5031|Bubbleback 5031]] — 1948
* [[Reference:4467|Bubbleback 4467]] — 1945–1949
* [[Reference:6031|Bubbleback 6031]] — 1949
* [[Reference:3595|Bubbleback 3595]] — 1941–1949
* [[Reference:2940|Bubbleback 2940]] — 1940–1949
* [[Reference:6075|Bubbleback 6075]] — 1950–1953

See also the [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://le-monde-edmond.com/datejust-a-closer-look-at-a-rolex-icon-2/ Le Monde Edmond — Datejust: A Closer Look at a Rolex Icon] — Le Monde Edmond
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-datejust-complete-history/ Monochrome Watches — The Evergreens: Complete History of the Rolex Datejust] — Monochrome
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/rolex-bubbleback-watches-collector-guide-1931-1950s-1235893131/ Robb Report — A Collector's Guide to Rolex Bubbleback Watches 1931-1950s] — Robb Report
* [https://www.pandolfini.it/ Pandolfini Casa d'Aste catalog usage — 'Ovetto' for 32mm Bubblebacks, 'Ovettone' for 36mm Big Bubblebacks] — Pandolfini Casa d'Aste, Pandolfini
* [https://www.astebolaffi.it/ Aste Bolaffi catalog usage of 'Ovetto' for standard 32mm Bubblebacks] — Aste Bolaffi

[[Category:Bubbleback]]

Reference:unicorn-daytona

2026-08-11T18:31:05Z

Admin: Fix hard-rule-10: drop prices from intro and hero caption, already in Auction record

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex "Unicorn" Daytona 6265}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex unicorn-daytona — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|description=The Unicorn Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6265 — the only known 18k white gold manual-wind Daytona. Case 2877587, manufactured 1970, delivered 1971 to a German retailer. Sold CHF 5,937,500 at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Geneva, 12 May 2018. Authenticity disputed in Perezcope's 2022 Frankenstein dossier citing 2010 photographs and millerighe pusher forensics.
|keywords=Unicorn Daytona, Unicorn 6265, white gold 6265, Rolex Unicorn, Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Perezcope Unicorn Frankenstein, Goldberger Unicorn, CHF 5,937,500
|image=Ref 6265 unicorn-hero.webp
|image_alt=The Unicorn 6265 — 18k white gold manual-wind Daytona, Sigma dial with white gold indices, CHF 5,937,500 at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T14:53:15Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:46Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] -> [[Reference:6265|6265]] -> '''Unicorn'''

= The Unicorn (Daytona 6265 in 18k white gold) =

The Unicorn is the only known 18k white gold manual-wind Daytona. It is a one-off special-order [[Reference:6265|6265]], case 2877587, made in 1970 and delivered in 1971 to a German retailer. Phillips sold it at Daytona Ultimatum in 2018. Perezcope's 2022 dossier disputes the watch as sold at Phillips and argues for a Frankenstein assembled from period-correct and replacement parts. Both readings remain on the record.

[[File:Ref 6265 unicorn-hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=The Unicorn 6265 — 18k white gold manual-wind Daytona, Sigma dial with white gold indices, Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018|The Unicorn 6265 — 18k white gold manual-wind Daytona, Sigma dial with white gold indices, Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018]]

== What the Unicorn is ==

Four markers set the Unicorn apart from every other 6265. The case is 18k white gold, unique within the manual-wind Daytona line. Case number 2877587 places it in Rolex's 1970 production band, and the 1971 delivery to Germany is documented. The fourth marker is the one that keeps the watch under forensic scrutiny — a Sigma dial on a case number that predates the usual Sigma window.

== The Phillips sale (12 May 2018) ==

Phillips Daytona Ultimatum was a 32-watch thematic sale curated by Pucci Papaleo with Aurel Bacs at the rostrum. The Unicorn was Lot 8 and the headline lot of the auction. Phillips's lot essay framed the watch as the authentic sole white gold 6265; the catalogue and condition report disclosed the bracelet swap and said nothing about the dial, pushers, or bezel. The watch hammered at CHF 4,750,000, and the 25 percent buyer's premium Phillips applied in Geneva brought the all-in price to CHF 5,937,500 — about USD 5.9M at prevailing exchange.

The sale placed the Unicorn at second on the all-time Rolex auction list at that date, behind only Paul Newman's own 6239 ([[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|USD 17,752,500 at Phillips Winning Icons, October 2017]]). The broader Daytona Ultimatum sale reset the market ceiling across manual-wind Daytona collecting and established Phillips as the canonical auction house for thematic Rolex sales.

== Ownership history ==

The chain of ownership, as Phillips's lot essay and Goldberger's published accounts give it:

* Manufactured 1970, Rolex Geneva
* Delivered 1971 to a German retailer, sold to a first retail buyer
* Surfaced in collector circulation in the 2000s
* Acquired by John Goldberger (Auro Montanari, Italian collector and author of ''100 Superlative Rolex Watches'')
* Held by Goldberger through the 2010s; service work documented in period including the Sigma dial swap cited in Phillips's essay
* Consigned to Phillips, May 2018
* Sold to a private buyer at the 2018 sale; ownership since has not been publicly re-surfaced

== The Perezcope dispute (December 2022) ==

Jose Pereztroika's December 2022 dossier for Perezcope, "Rolex Daytona 6265 The Unicorn Frankenstein plot", disputes the Unicorn's authenticity as presented at Phillips. It rests on four lines of evidence.

=== 2010 Newoldschlock Instagram photographs ===

An anonymous Instagram account, "newoldschlock", posted 2010 photographs of case 2877587, the same white gold 6265 case the Unicorn carries, wearing a different dial, different pushers, and a different bezel from what appeared at Phillips in 2018. In the 2010 images the case has a steel tachymetre bezel, steel screw-down pushers, and a black dial without Sigma markings. The 2018 configuration carries a white gold bezel, millerighe-knurled white gold pushers, and a Sigma dial. It differs on all three points.

Per Perezcope, the photographs document that the 2018 configuration was assembled after 2010 rather than retained from the 1971 delivery. The sequence matters as much as the content. The account posted on 11 May 2018, one day before the sale; Phillips published a Goldberger interview hours afterwards, and that interview was where the replacement dial, pushers, and bezel were acknowledged for the first time. Goldberger described them there as "incorrect replacements" he had sourced "to restore it to its original glory". The disclosure followed the photographs.

=== Millerighe pusher forensics ===

Perezcope's analysis finds the 2018 white gold millerighe pushers inconsistent in shape, refinement, and burr pattern with authentic Rolex millerighe pushers of the period. The knurl pattern, the top-face chamfer, and the burr at the base all read as non-Rolex work, which points to a later third-party fabrication rather than an original part or a period-correct Rolex service replacement.

=== Sigma dial chronology ===

The Sigma dial convention is dated, per Perezcope's own forensic database, to around case number 3.0 million, roughly 1972. Case 2877587 falls about 122,000 serials short of that. The specific dial fitted at Phillips is a Mk 2 Sigma variant that Perezcope places around 3.5 million, roughly 1975, leaving it more than 600,000 serials ahead of the case it sits in. Either way the dial type did not exist when this case was manufactured.

=== Cal 727 movement stamp ===

Perezcope flags that the Unicorn's cal 727 movement carries an older "7-2-7" hyphenated stamp on a serial range where neighbouring movements already use the newer cleaner "727" stamp. A cal 727 with the wrong stamp style for its case-number neighbourhood reads as a movement that has been swapped or assembled from older parts.

== Phillips's position and Goldberger's framing ==

The dial, pushers, and bezel never appeared in Phillips's catalogue or condition report, which disclosed the bracelet swap alone. They surfaced in the Goldberger interview Phillips published on 11 May 2018, an account that positioned the Unicorn as an authentic Rolex carrying replacements Goldberger had sourced during his ownership.

Goldberger has publicly treated the Unicorn as the only known white gold 6265, and the replacement components as period-correct parts fitted for display and preservation. Phillips and Goldberger's combined framing is that the core case, 2877587 in 18k white gold, is unquestionably authentic Rolex and the sole documented white gold 6265, whatever the post-1971 dial, bezel, and pusher replacement history.

Perezcope's counter is that an authentic case does not make a coherent watch. The millerighe pushers are not period-correct service replacements; the Sigma dial is an anachronism; the movement stamp reads as period-mismatched. Assembled, the watch that sold at Phillips in 2018 is a Frankenstein.

== Why the dispute matters ==

The market will go on cataloguing the Unicorn's Phillips result as the canonical price for the variant while collectors form their own authentication positions on the Frankenstein question. Similar forensic disputes sit on two other high-value Daytona variants, the [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino 6263]] and the [[Reference:6240|Neanderthal 6240]], with Perezcope as the consistent second voice raising post-sale forensic questions.

== Relation to other 6265 variants ==

The Unicorn is one of several rare precious-metal 6265 configurations:

* 18k white gold (the Unicorn) — one documented example
* 18k yellow gold — several, enough to command a premium over steel without being a one-off
* 14k yellow gold — a smaller number, North American market specification
* 950 platinum — a handful documented, each catalogued on its own provenance
* Lemon dial in gold or platinum — a separate sub-branch, covered on the [[Reference:6265|6265]] page

== Related references ==
* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]]
* [[Reference:6265|Daytona 6265]] — the host reference in full, with the Paul Newman variants, the Sultan of Oman Khanjar, the Lemon dial, and retailer-signed examples
* [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman Daytona]] — the exotic-dial category the Unicorn sits adjacent to
* [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino Daytona]] — the parallel disputed variant in the manual-wind category
* [[Reference:daytona-glossary|Daytona glossary]] — definitions for every named variant

== Sources ==
* [https://www.phillips.com/article/42015509/made-for-racing-rolex-and-the-daytona Made for Racing: Rolex and the Daytona] — Phillips, 2018
* [https://perezcope.com/2022/12/31/rolex-daytona-6265-the-unicorn-frankenstein-plot/ Rolex Daytona 6265 The Unicorn Frankenstein Plot] — Jose Pereztroika, Perezcope, December 2022
* Phillips Geneva, Daytona Ultimatum, Lot 8 catalogue essay, 12 May 2018
* [https://watchesbysjx.com Preview: Phillips Daytona Ultimatum picks] — SJX, 2018
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/articles/vintage-rolex-daytona-the-gold-standard Vintage Rolex Daytona: The Gold Standard] — Karyn Orrico, Sotheby's, 2024

[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Daytona Manual-Wind]]
[[Category:Disputed variant]]

Reference:oyster-sotto-daytona

2026-08-11T18:31:05Z

Admin: Fix hard-rule-10: drop price/hammer language from intro, already in Auction record

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 'Oyster Sotto' Daytona 6263}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex oyster-sotto-daytona — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|description=The Oyster Sotto (RCO — Rolex Cosmograph Oyster) Paul Newman Daytona is the rarest standard-production Paul Newman dial. The 12 o'clock text stack reads ROLEX COSMOGRAPH OYSTER, with OYSTER printed below Cosmograph rather than above. Documented only on 6263 and 6265. The Oyster Sotto 6263 hammered at CHF 1,662,500 at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018; an earlier Oyster Sotto sold at Christie's Lesson One, Geneva, in November 2013.
|keywords=Oyster Sotto, RCO, Rolex Cosmograph Oyster, Paul Newman 6263, Oyster Sotto 6263, RCO 6263, RCO 6265, Christie's Lesson One, Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018
|image=Ref 6263 rco-hero.webp
|image_alt=Paul Newman RCO Daytona 6263 — "ROLEX COSMOGRAPH OYSTER" text layout with OYSTER below Cosmograph
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T15:01:32Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:43Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] -> [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman Daytona]] -> '''Oyster Sotto / RCO'''

The Oyster Sotto, also known as the RCO (Rolex Cosmograph Oyster), is the rarest standard-production Paul Newman dial. The defining tell is the 12 o'clock text stack: "ROLEX COSMOGRAPH OYSTER" instead of the standard order, with OYSTER printed below Cosmograph. Documented examples sit only on the screw-pusher [[Reference:6263|6263]] and [[Reference:6265|6265]].

The two canonical sales are Christie's Lesson One in 2013, the first Paul Newman to clear seven figures, and Phillips Daytona Ultimatum in 2018, where an Oyster Sotto 6263 crossed the block again.

[[File:Ref 6263 rco-hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Paul Newman RCO Daytona 6263 — "ROLEX COSMOGRAPH OYSTER" text layout with OYSTER below Cosmograph|Paul Newman RCO Daytona 6263 — "ROLEX COSMOGRAPH OYSTER" text layout with OYSTER below Cosmograph]]

== What the Oyster Sotto is ==

A standard Paul Newman 6263 carries OYSTER above COSMOGRAPH under the coronet. The Oyster Sotto drops OYSTER to the bottom of the stack, which is where the nickname comes from — ''sotto'' is Italian for below. Everything else on the dial is standard Paul Newman territory: the same exotic layout, the same block markers, the same contrasting sub-dials. One line of text is the whole variant.

== Why the text layout exists ==

Rolex never explained the Oyster Sotto text layout. The usual collector reading is a printing error: Singer put the OYSTER line in the wrong place on a small batch, Rolex let the dials through, and they ended up on a handful of 6263 and 6265 watches. The rarity fits that kind of one-batch mistake. The competing reading treats the layout as an early experiment that Rolex later standardised away from. Scarcity comes out the same either way, and the sub-branch occupies a narrow production window inside the broader Paul Newman Mk2–Mk4 era.

== Mk1 Oyster Sotto — earliest sub-variant ==

An earlier subgroup sits inside the category and is rarer still. The RCO Mk1 has tighter text spacing and proportions closer to early Paul Newman production, and it is the rarest standard-production Paul Newman configuration documented. The handful of Mk1 examples that reach auction set the top of the branch; a standard Oyster Sotto Mk2 or Mk3 trades well below that rate.

=== A documented Mk1 RCO example ===

A well-documented Mk1 RCO 6263 surfaced at Kaplan's in Sweden in 2014, consigned by the original owner's family. It kept its Mk1 acrylic bezel, rare Mk0 screw-down pushers, and 7835 Swiss-made Oyster bracelet on 271 end links. The chain from first owner to public sale is about as complete as this branch gets.

== Christie's Lesson One (Geneva, 10 November 2013) ==

Christie's "Lesson One: The Legendary Rolex Daytona" in Geneva on 10 November 2013 was the first thematic auction dedicated to the Daytona line. The sale established the Oyster Sotto as a canonical factory variant for auction-market purposes and marked the first Paul Newman to cross the seven-figure USD threshold at public auction.

The Oyster Sotto 6263 sold for about USD 1.089M including premium. From that point the market priced the layout as a tier above the standard Paul Newman 6263.

== Phillips Daytona Ultimatum (Geneva, 12 May 2018) ==

Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, the 32-watch thematic sale curated by Pucci Papaleo with Aurel Bacs at the rostrum, catalogued an Oyster Sotto 6263 as Lot 14. The lot hammered at CHF 1,330,000, and the 25% buyer's premium Phillips ran across Daytona Ultimatum brought the all-in price to CHF 1,662,500 — about USD 1.66M at prevailing exchange.

The 2018 result confirmed the category's market position five years after Christie's Lesson One established the initial pricing tier. The Oyster Sotto 6263 sat in the seven-figure range across both sales, with the Phillips 2018 result landing behind the Unicorn 6265 (CHF 5,937,500) and the Neanderthal 6240 (CHF 3,012,500) as the third-highest-priced lot of the sale.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Sale !! Date !! Watch !! Price (all-in)
|-
| Christie's Lesson One, Geneva || 10 November 2013 || Oyster Sotto 6263 || ~USD 1.089M
|-
| Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Geneva || 12 May 2018 || Oyster Sotto 6263 (Lot 14) || CHF 1,662,500 (~USD 1.66M)
|}

== RCO on 6265 ==

Oyster Sotto dials are documented on [[Reference:6265|6265]] as well as 6263, but 6265 examples are rarer. In casual collector use, "Oyster Sotto" usually means the 6263 unless someone says otherwise.

== Relation to Paul Newman Mk progression ==

The Oyster Sotto sits inside the normal Paul Newman Mk progression, with most examples falling in the Mk2 and Mk3 years and the early Mk1 layout accounting for the scarce end.

== Distinguishing from the Albino and other rare dials ==

Several other rare 6263 and 6265 dial categories sit next to the Oyster Sotto without overlapping it. The [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino]] is white-on-white and falls outside the Paul Newman family altogether, as does Big Red, the standard red-DAYTONA 6263. JPS is a gold-case Paul Newman defined by material and colour, and Lemon is its yellow-lacquer relative. Of the group, only the Oyster Sotto is defined by where the text sits rather than by colour or host material.

== Host references ==

Documented Oyster Sotto dials sit only on [[Reference:6263|6263]] and [[Reference:6265|6265]]. The earlier pump-pusher references never carried them, and neither did the automatic Daytona era, since Paul Newman dials stop before that generation.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]]
* [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman dials]] — the parent exotic-dial category
* [[Reference:6263|Daytona 6263]] — main host reference
* [[Reference:6265|Daytona 6265]] — secondary host reference
* [[Reference:6241|Daytona 6241]] — exotic-dial cousin
* [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino Daytona]] — parallel rare-dial branch
* [[Reference:daytona-glossary|Daytona glossary]]

== Sources ==

* [https://www.phillips.com/article/42015509/made-for-racing-rolex-and-the-daytona Made for Racing: Rolex and the Daytona] — Phillips, 2018
* Phillips Geneva, Daytona Ultimatum, Lot 14 catalogue essay, 12 May 2018
* Christie's Geneva, "Lesson One: The Legendary Rolex Daytona" sale, 10 November 2013
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer Historical Perspectives: The Very First Rolex Daytona] — Benjamin Clymer, Hodinkee, 2013
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona] — Erik Slaven, Monochrome, 2024
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-paul-newman-daytona-rco-6263 Rolex "Paul Newman" "RCO" Daytona reference 6263] — Wind Vintage listing with provenance for the 2.085M Mk1 RCO
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/whats-selling-where-the-best-rolex-available-this-month-and-other-highlights-from-kaplans-of-sweden What's Selling Where: Kaplan's of Sweden] — Eric Wind, Hodinkee, 2014
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/bring-a-loupe-vintage-watches-august-28-2020 Bring A Loupe: Vintage Watches] — Hodinkee, 28 August 2020
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/rare-rolex-paul-newman-daytona-oyster-sotto-for-sale-at-wind-vintage-2945914/ Rare Rolex Paul Newman Daytona Oyster Sotto for sale at Wind Vintage] — Robb Report, 2020

[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Daytona Manual-Wind]]
[[Category:Paul Newman]]

Reference:neanderthal-daytona

2026-08-11T18:31:04Z

Admin: Fix hard-rule-10: drop price from intro, already in Auction record

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 'Neanderthal' Daytona 6240}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex neanderthal-daytona — Production, Dial Variants, Serial Ranges | BezelBase
|description=The Neanderthal Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6240 — the Phillips Daytona Ultimatum 2018 lot presented as the earliest Paul Newman prototype, sold for CHF 3,012,500. Perezcope's 2022 forensic dossier disputes the prototype framing using contemporaneous evidence from the April 1998 Orologi & Market magazine, arguing the dial is a late-1990s construction on a 6238 donor. Both positions remain on record.
|keywords=Neanderthal Daytona, Neanderthal 6240, Rolex Neanderthal, Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Perezcope Neanderthal, Paul Newman prototype, 6240 disputed, Orologi Market 1998
|image=Ref 6240 hero.webp
|image_alt=The Neanderthal 6240 at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Geneva, 12 May 2018
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T15:01:32Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:39Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] -> [[Reference:6240|6240]] -> '''Neanderthal'''

The Neanderthal is a Paul Newman-configuration [[Reference:6240|6240]] that Phillips sold in 2018 as the earliest known Paul Newman prototype. The nickname points to the dial's crude, proto-Paul-Newman look. Perezcope's 2022 dossier disputes the prototype story and argues for a later construction using a [[Reference:6238|6238]] donor dial. Both readings remain on the public record.

[[File:Ref 6240 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=The Neanderthal 6240 at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Geneva, 12 May 2018|The Neanderthal 6240 at Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Geneva, 12 May 2018]]

== What the Neanderthal is ==

As it appeared at Phillips, the Neanderthal carried a set of features that set it apart from the documented Paul Newman Mk1–Mk4 progression. The typeface sits between the known Mk1 and Mk2 forms, which is where the working label Mk1.75 comes from, and the block markers lack the outline seen on Mk2 dials. The dial sits in a 6240 host case with screw-down pushers and a pre-1970 serial. Sub-dial geometry is the contested part: Perezcope reads it as closer to 6238 than to 6239 production.

== The Phillips sale (12 May 2018) ==

Phillips sold the Neanderthal as Lot 32 at Daytona Ultimatum and framed it as the earliest known Paul Newman prototype: a dial from before the documented Mk1 run, with typography and proportions Rolex later abandoned.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Detail !! Value
|-
| Reference || 6240, stainless steel
|-
| Sale || Phillips Daytona Ultimatum, Geneva
|-
| Date || 12 May 2018
|-
| Lot number || 32
|-
| Price (all-in) || CHF 3,012,500
|-
| Position on Rolex auction list at sale date || 4th all-time
|-
| Framing || Earliest known Paul Newman prototype
|}

The sale placed the Neanderthal at the fourth position on the all-time Rolex auction list at the time, behind Newman's own 6239 (USD 17,752,500 at Phillips Winning Icons, New York, 26 October 2017), the Unicorn 6265 (CHF 5,937,500 at the same Ultimatum sale), and the Bao Dai 6062 (CHF 5,066,000 at Phillips Geneva, May 2017).

== The Perezcope dispute (November 2022) ==

Jose Pereztroika, writing as Perezcope, published "Rolex Daytona 6240 Paul Newman Neanderthal: A myth goes extinct" in November 2022. The dossier disputes the prototype framing on four strands of evidence.

=== ''Orologi & Market'' April 1998 ===

The April 1998 issue of ''Orologi & Market'' is the core of Perezcope's case. It appears to show the same dial in a construction context decades before Phillips presented it as a 1960s prototype. If that reading is right, the prototype story collapses.

=== Mk1.75 typeface analysis ===

Perezcope reads the printing as a modern attempt to imagine a missing pre-Mk1 step. Font weight, spacing, and stroke endings all sit wrong against period Singer dials.

=== Sub-dial geometry from 6238 donor ===

The sub-dial layout reads to Perezcope like a [[Reference:6238|6238]] donor rather than a true 6239-era Paul Newman dial. On that reading the Neanderthal is a reworked 6238 dial.

=== Singer stamp comparison ===

The Singer dial-maker stamp on the Neanderthal's dial back, compared against authenticated Singer stamps across the Mk1–Mk4 progression, reads as mismatched to any production window. The stamp style does not fit the 1965–1969 6240 production range or any adjacent Singer production batch.

== Phillips's position and the Neanderthal's case ==

Phillips never claimed an archive-backed Rolex prototype. The house argued from the dial itself, on the logic that a dial which does not fit Mk1 production might belong to a phase before it. That inference is what Perezcope rejects.

Nobody disputes the case. The 6240 stainless-steel case with screw-down pushers, acrylic crystal, and acrylic bezel insert is period-correct, the 6240 production years of 1965–1969 fit a pre-Mk1 Paul Newman framing, and the case clears the standard 6240 verification checkpoints. The argument is entirely about the dial.

== Why the dispute matters ==

The disagreement matters because the two readings imply completely different objects. If Phillips was right, the watch rewrites early Paul Newman chronology. If Perezcope was right, the market paid prototype money for a later construction.

Where the market lands on the Perezcope dossier will only show at the next public sale of the Neanderthal, should it surface. The watch has not been re-catalogued publicly since 2018.

== Relation to other disputed Daytona variants ==

The Neanderthal sits in a cluster of high-value disputed-authenticity Daytona variants, each with Perezcope as the second voice raising forensic questions against an auction-house lot:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Variant !! Phillips framing !! Perezcope counter !! Status
|-
| [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino 6263]] || Factory Rolex variant (Hodinkee 2013 consensus) || 1990s Tom Bolt construction (Perezcope 2025) || 3 examples sold; dispute unresolved
|-
| [[Reference:unicorn-daytona|Unicorn 6265]] || Only known white gold manual-wind Daytona with period-correct service replacements (Phillips 2018) || Frankenstein — components assembled post-2010 per 2010 Newoldschlock IG photos (Perezcope 2022) || Sold CHF 5.94M 2018; dispute unresolved
|-
| Neanderthal 6240 || Earliest Paul Newman prototype (Phillips 2018) || Late-1990s construction on 6238 donor per Orologi & Market April 1998 (Perezcope 2022) || Sold CHF 3.01M 2018; dispute unresolved
|}

The pattern is familiar. An auction house presents a watch with a rarity story, a forensic counter-dossier appears later, and no final authority closes the argument. The market then keeps trading the watch with that uncertainty attached.

== Host reference ==

The Neanderthal is documented as a single example on a single [[Reference:6240|6240]] case. No other 6240 Paul Newman examples appear in the published literature, and the Neanderthal is the only one cited at auction.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]]
* [[Reference:6240|Daytona 6240]] — the host reference
* [[Reference:6239|Daytona 6239]] — the first Cosmograph
* [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman dials]] — the disputed dial family context
* [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino Daytona]] — parallel disputed variant
* [[Reference:unicorn-daytona|Unicorn Daytona]] — parallel disputed variant
* [[Reference:daytona-glossary|Daytona glossary]]

== Sources ==

* [https://www.phillips.com/article/42015509/made-for-racing-rolex-and-the-daytona Made for Racing: Rolex and the Daytona] — Phillips, 2018
* Phillips Geneva, Daytona Ultimatum, Lot 32 catalogue essay, 12 May 2018
* [https://perezcope.com/2022/11/03/rolex-daytona-6240-paul-newman-neanderthal-a-myth-goes-extinct/ Rolex Daytona 6240 Paul Newman Neanderthal: A myth goes extinct] — Jose Pereztroika, Perezcope, November 2022
* ''Orologi & Market'', Italian collector magazine, April 1998, page 44
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer Historical Perspectives: The Very First Rolex Daytona] — Benjamin Clymer, Hodinkee, 2013
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona] — Erik Slaven, Monochrome, 2024

[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Daytona Manual-Wind]]
[[Category:Paul Newman]]
[[Category:Disputed variant]]

Reference:albino-daytona

2026-08-11T18:31:04Z

Admin: Fix hard-rule-10: drop price from hero caption, already covered in body/Auction record

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Albino Daytona}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 'Albino' Daytona — Eric Clapton's 6263 | BezelBase
|description=The Albino Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263 — a white-on-white monochromatic dial documented on three examples. Eric Clapton's traded three times, last at Phillips in May 2015 for CHF 1,325,000. A separate third example, case 2648447, sold at Sotheby's Abu Dhabi in December 2025 for USD 952,500. The factory-versus-Tom-Bolt-construction dispute between Hodinkee (2013) and Perezcope (2025) remains unresolved in editorial.
|keywords=Albino Daytona, Albino 6263, Rolex Albino, Eric Clapton Daytona, Tom Bolt, Perezcope Albino, Phillips Clapton, white dial 6263, Rolex Cosmograph Albino
|image=Ref 6263 albino-hero.webp
|image_alt=Albino Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263, case 2648447, Sotheby's Abu Dhabi Lot 340, sold USD 952,500 on 5 December 2025
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T14:50:57Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:33Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] -> [[Reference:6263|6263]] -> Albino

= Albino Daytona (6263) =

The Albino is a white-on-white dial fitted to the [[Reference:6263|6263]]: silver sub-dials on a white base, with "Rolex Oyster Cosmograph" at 12 and no Daytona line above 6. Three examples are documented, the best known of them Eric Clapton's. The dial sits at the center of the sharpest authenticity fight in manual-wind Daytona collecting, and that fight is still unresolved.

[[File:Ref 6263 albino-hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Albino Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263, case 2648447, Sotheby's Abu Dhabi Lot 340, 5 December 2025|Albino Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263, case 2648447, Sotheby's Abu Dhabi Lot 340, 5 December 2025]]

== What the Albino is ==

A white main dial carries silver sub-dials, with no Daytona line above 6 o'clock and printed hour markers in place of the applied block markers used on standard 6263 production. The known watches all pair the pale dial with a similarly pale bezel.

== The three documented examples ==

Three Albino 6263 examples appear in the English-language auction record.

=== Eric Clapton's Albino ===

Clapton's is the most-traded and best-documented of the three, surfacing at three public sales over twelve years:

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Sale !! Date !! Price !! Notes
|-
| Christie's New York || June 2003 || USD 50,190 || First public sale. Sold out of Clapton's collection into private hands.
|-
| Sotheby's || 2008 || ~USD 505,000 || Second public sale. About ten-fold appreciation over five years.
|-
| Phillips, Geneva || May 2015 || CHF 1,325,000 (~USD 1.42M) || Third public sale, and the last recorded result for this watch.
|}

=== The second and third examples ===

A second example appears in the literature attributed to John Goldberger's collection, with thinner public documentation than the Clapton watch carries. The third is case 2648447, a separate watch from Clapton's, which Sotheby's Abu Dhabi sold as Lot 340 on 5 December 2025 for USD 952,500 including premium against a USD 750,000 hammer. Its previous owner was reported to have paid close to USD 3 million.

== The three-way authenticity dispute ==

The Albino is the most contested dial in the manual-wind Daytona category. Three positions sit in the published literature, none of them retracted.

=== Hodinkee (Clymer, 2013) — factory Rolex variant ===

Benjamin Clymer, writing for Hodinkee in 2013, read the Albino as a rare factory Rolex dial, probably Singer-made, fitted to a very small number of 6263 cases. That reading held as the default for about twelve years.

=== Perezcope (December 2025) — Tom Bolt 1990s construction ===

Jose Pereztroika's December 2025 dossier on Perezcope reads the Albino as a late-1990s construction rather than a factory dial, built from a recovered [[Reference:6238|6238]] silver dial transplanted into a 6263 case by the dealer Tom Bolt, whom Pereztroika also credits with coining the Albino name. In that reading, 6238 hands had to be used because standard 6263 hands did not fit the recessed sub-dials correctly.

Pereztroika also states that Bolt disclosed his role directly to Sotheby's before the sale. Sotheby's still chose the softer catalogue line: origins unknown.

The dossier lists four forensic markers on Sotheby's Lot 340 (case 2648447): discontinued thin-tapered sub-dial hands inconsistent with a 1971 production case, a 30-minute sub-dial hand sitting high against period-correct fitment, plating coming off the screw-down pushers in a pattern that reads as aged fake material rather than original Rolex gold plate, and 6238 donor-dial typography visible under magnification.

=== Sotheby's Abu Dhabi (December 2025) — "origins unknown" ===

The Lot 340 catalogue described the dial as of unknown origin, endorsing neither the factory-variant reading nor the later-construction reading. Pereztroika's dossier had gone up two days before the sale, and Bolt had reportedly briefed the house directly the day before that.

== Where the argument stands ==

Factory variant, late construction, and unresolved origins all stay on the record. The literature has not closed the argument, and the market keeps trading the watch anyway. Every new result is a buyer betting on one reading over the other two.

== Relation to other dial variants ==

The Albino sits in its own category. It carries neither the contrasting sub-dials of a Paul Newman nor the heat-shifted patina of a tropical, and the printed markers and missing Daytona line keep it well outside standard 6263 production. The host watches themselves are conventional: period-correct 6263 cases and cal. 727 movements, so what is contested is the dial alone.

== Host reference ==

The Albino is documented exclusively on the [[Reference:6263|6263]] case. No Albino-pattern dials have surfaced on the [[Reference:6265|6265]] (metal-bezel sibling) or any other manual-wind Daytona reference. Every documented Albino carries the acrylic black bezel insert that defines the 6263.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:6263|Daytona 6263]] — the host reference
* [[Reference:6238|Reference 6238]] — the alleged donor-dial reference
* [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman Daytona]] — adjacent exotic-dial category
* [[Reference:big-red-daytona|Big Red Daytona]] — the other 6263 nickname dial
* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]]
* [[Reference:daytona-glossary|Daytona glossary]]

== Sources ==
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer Historical Perspectives: The Very First Rolex Daytona, Explained] — Benjamin Clymer, Hodinkee, 2013
* [https://perezcope.com/2025/12/03/not-quite-whiter-than-white-the-reality-of-the-rare-rolex-albino-daytona-ref-6263/ Not Quite Whiter Than White: the reality of the rare Rolex Albino Daytona Ref. 6263] — Jose Pereztroika, Perezcope, 3 December 2025
* Phillips Geneva, Auction lot catalogue essay, Daytona Ultimatum, May 2018
* Sotheby's Abu Dhabi, Important Watches sale, Lot 340, 5 December 2025
* Christie's New York, "Watches by Christie's" sale, June 2003
* Sotheby's, Clapton collection re-sale, 2008

[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Daytona Manual-Wind]]
[[Category:Paul Newman]]
[[Category:Disputed variant]]

Reference:big-red-daytona

2026-08-11T18:31:04Z

Admin: Fix hard-rule-10: drop prices from intro paragraph and hero caption, already covered in Auction record

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Big Red Daytona}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 'Big Red' Daytona — 6263 & 6265 Guide | BezelBase
|description=The Big Red Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263 — the standard 6263 dial with DAYTONA printed in red block letters above the 6 o'clock sub-register. Introduced around 1976, default 6263 dial by the early 1980s. Paul Newman's own Big Red 6263 — caseback engraved "DRIVE SLOWLY JOANNE" by Joanne Woodward, who bought it in 1983 — sold at Phillips New York on 12 December 2020 for USD 5,475,000 including premium. Third-most-expensive Rolex at auction on that date.
|keywords=Big Red Daytona, Big Red 6263, Newman Big Red, Rolex Big Red, Paul Newman Drive Slowly Joanne, Phillips 2020, Floating Big Red, Small Red
|image=Ref 6263 big-red-hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263 Big Red — Newman's 'DRIVE SLOWLY JOANNE' example, hammered USD 5.48M Phillips NY 2020
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-19T14:53:16Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T14:18:36Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:daytona|Daytona]] -> [[Reference:6263|6263]] -> '''Big Red'''

= Big Red Daytona (6263) =

The Big Red is the standard [[Reference:6263|6263]] dial with "DAYTONA" in red block letters above the 6 o'clock sub-register. It appears around 1976 and becomes the default late 6263 dial. Most surviving 6263s carry one of three closely related forms: standard Big Red, Floating Big Red, or Small Red.

Paul Newman's own Big Red 6263 anchors the category. Joanne Woodward bought the watch in 1983 and had the caseback engraved "DRIVE SLOWLY JOANNE" for her husband. Newman wore it longer than any of his other Daytonas and gave it to his daughter Clea Newman Soderlund in 2008. It sold at Phillips New York on 12 December 2020, third on the all-time Rolex auction list as of that date, behind Newman's own [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|6239]] and the Bao Dai 6062.

[[File:Ref 6263 big-red-hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263 Big Red — Newman's 'DRIVE SLOWLY JOANNE' example, Phillips New York 2020|Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263 Big Red — Newman's 'DRIVE SLOWLY JOANNE' example, Phillips New York 2020]]

== The three Red variants ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Variant !! Period !! Distinguishing features !! Notes
|-
| Standard Big Red || c.1976–1988 || DAYTONA in red block letters, standard font size, printed immediately above the 6 o'clock sub-register || The default 6263 dial across the bulk of the run. Most populous of the three red variants
|-
| Floating Big Red || c.1976–early 1980s || DAYTONA text sits visibly further from the sub-dial than on standard Big Red — a few millimetres of extra space || Transitional variant. Small-spacing detail, large rarity premium. Surfaces periodically at Phillips and Sotheby's
|-
| Small Red || late 1980s || Same red DAYTONA but rendered in a noticeably smaller font || Late-production sub-variant. Less collected than the other two but documented
|}

Floating Big Red examples sit well above standard Big Red on the rarity ladder, and the Floating Big Red Sigma sits higher again. The Sigma variant pairs the Floating text placement with gold hour markers carrying the discreet sigma symbols at the foot of the dial, the Swiss industry convention marking solid-gold appliques. Sigma examples appear at the major auction houses intermittently rather than annually, and a clean one commands multiples of a standard Big Red result.

== Newman's Big Red (Phillips New York, December 2020) ==

Two of Newman's personal Daytonas have come to auction. His 6239 Mk1, the watch that gave the Paul Newman dial its name, sold at Phillips Winning Icons on 26 October 2017 for USD 17,752,500 and still holds the Rolex auction record. His 6263 Big Red followed three years later.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Detail !! Value
|-
| Reference || 6263, stainless steel, Big Red dial
|-
| Sale || Phillips, Racing Pulse sale, New York
|-
| Date || 12 December 2020
|-
| Price (all-in) || USD 5,475,000
|-
| Caseback engraving || "DRIVE SLOWLY JOANNE"
|-
| Provenance || Bought by Joanne Woodward in 1983 and given to Newman, who wore it until 2008 and then gave it to his daughter Clea Newman Soderlund; consigned by the family
|-
| Position on Rolex auction list (at sale date) || 3rd all-time, behind Newman's 6239 and the Bao Dai Rolex 6062
|}

The "DRIVE SLOWLY JOANNE" engraving is what separates this 6263 from any other standard Big Red. It echoes the "Drive carefully me" engraving Joanne Woodward had put on Newman's 6239 years earlier, and Phillips's lot essay drew the parallel directly.

As of December 2020, two watches from Newman's personal collection held first and third place on the all-time Rolex auction list. Both were gifts carrying family engravings, and neither left his hands in his lifetime.

== The market for standard Big Red ==

Setting the Newman example aside, standard Big Red 6263s have appreciated steadily through the 2010s and into the 2020s. The top of the market wants original dials, unpolished or lightly polished cases, period-correct bracelets with matching clasp date codes, and full-set boxes and papers. Refinished cases, service-replacement dials, and mismatched components cut hard into results.

The Big Red market moves with the broader 6263 market, and the Phillips Daytona Ultimatum sale in May 2018 was the most consequential single reset. Headline lots from that auction (the Unicorn 6265 at CHF 5.9M, the Neanderthal 6240 at CHF 3.0M, the Oyster Sotto 6263 at CHF 1.66M) lifted the auction ceiling for generic clean Big Reds along with everything else 6263-shaped. Before 2018 a clean Big Red traded in the upper five figures into the low six figures. After 2018 the clean end of the market clustered firmly in the six figures.

== Relation to Paul Newman on 6263 ==

The Big Red dial and the Paul Newman dial are distinct categories. A 6263 carries one or the other in standard production, almost never both. The Paul Newman layout (square block hour markers, cross-hairs across the sub-registers, 15/30/45 sub-dial numerals) does not appear with Big Red's block-letter red DAYTONA on factory dials.

The rare exception is a Paul Newman dial sub-variant with red Daytona text, found more often on the 6265 than the 6263, where categorisation has to be settled lot-by-lot. See [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman Daytona]] for the full Mk1-4 typology.

Newman's own Big Red 6263 sat in the standard category. The dial is a stock 6263 Cosmograph with red DAYTONA, not a Paul Newman / Big Red hybrid.

== Host reference ==

The Big Red dial is documented only on the [[Reference:6263|6263]] case. The metal-bezel [[Reference:6265|6265]] did not receive Big Red dials in standard production. A handful of 6265s with red DAYTONA text have appeared at auction, but they are categorised separately and generally read as later service-replacement dials rather than period Big Red variants.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:6263|Daytona 6263]] — the host reference, covering the [[Reference:albino-daytona|Albino]] and [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman]] variants alongside Big Red
* [[Reference:paul-newman-daytona|Paul Newman Daytona]] — the other Newman-owned dial category, hosted on the 6239
* [[Reference:6265|Daytona 6265]] — the metal-bezel sibling
* [[Reference:6264|Daytona 6264]] — the pump-pusher predecessor
* [[Reference:daytona|Daytona family index]]
* [[Reference:daytona-glossary|Daytona glossary]] — definitions for Floating Big Red, Small Red, Sigma dial, and every other named variant

== Sources ==

* [https://www.phillips.com/article/42015509/made-for-racing-rolex-and-the-daytona Made for Racing: Rolex and the Daytona] — Phillips, 2018
* [https://www.phillips.com/detail/rolex/NY080120/38 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona "Big Red", Ref. 6263, case 6'392'137 — Lot 38] — Phillips, New York, 12 December 2020
* [https://watchesbysjx.com/2020/12/paul-newman-rolex-daytona-6263-big-red-auction.html Paul Newman's Rolex Daytona 6263 "Big Red" Sells for US$5.48m] — Richard Lee, SJX, 2020
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona] — Erik Slaven, Monochrome, 2024
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-first-rolex-daytona-by-benjamin-clymer Historical Perspectives: The Very First Rolex Daytona] — Benjamin Clymer, Hodinkee, 2013

[[Category:Daytona]]
[[Category:Daytona Manual-Wind]]
[[Category:Paul Newman]]

Reference:explorer

2026-08-11T17:13:19Z

Admin: Add 6429 Commando to Explorer hub as an Explorer-adjacent curiosity

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Explorer}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Explorer — Reference Guide to Every Model & Year | BezelBase
|description=Every Rolex Explorer I reference from the 1952 pre-Explorer 6150 through the current 124270 and 224270. Production histories, dial variants, movement specs, and collector context.
|keywords=Rolex Explorer, Explorer I, 1016, 6150, 6350, 6610, 14270, 114270, 214270, 124270, 224270, vintage Rolex
|image=Ref Explorer everest 1953.webp
|image_alt=Hillary and Norgay's 1953 Everest expedition — the event that launched the Explorer name
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-04-16T04:55:10Z
|modified_time=2026-07-18T12:59:57Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

== Rolex Explorer I ==
The Explorer launched in 1953, the same year as the Submariner, and took its name from Rolex's run of supplied watches on Himalayan expeditions through the early 1950s. The Hillary and Norgay Everest ascent that May supplied the marketing peg, though the dial layout had already been settled on the 6150. The line is defined by three things: a 36mm Oyster case (until the 214270 stretched it to 39mm in 2010), a 3-6-9 Arabic-numeral dial, and Mercedes hands. No date, no rotating bezel, no complications of any kind.

The [[Reference:explorer-ii|Explorer II]] arrived in 1971 with a 24-hour hand aimed at cavers and polar workers who lose track of day and night. It runs across five references (1655, 16550, 16570, 216570, 226570) on its own movement family and is documented separately. This page covers Explorer I.

[[File:Ref Explorer everest 1953.webp|thumb|center|500px|alt=Hillary and Norgay's 1953 Everest expedition — the event that launched the Explorer name|Hillary and Norgay's 1953 Everest expedition — the event that launched the Explorer name]]

== Common entry points ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:separate; border-spacing:8px 0; margin:1em 0 1.5em 0;"
|-
| style="width:33%; padding:14px; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555; vertical-align:top;" | ''Identifying a vintage 36mm Explorer?'' '''[[Reference:1016|1016]]''' — the twenty-nine-year foundation reference, gilt Types 0 through 6, matte Marks 0 through 5.
| style="width:33%; padding:14px; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555; vertical-align:top;" | ''Cross-checking a sapphire-era 36mm?'' '''[[Reference:14270|14270]]''' — first sapphire-crystal Explorer, caliber 3000, five dial generations, plus the Blackout variant that re-set the modern Explorer market.
| style="width:33%; padding:14px; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555; vertical-align:top;" | ''Working from a 39mm dial photo?'' '''[[Reference:214270|214270]]''' — first size change in fifty-seven years. Caliber 3132 with Paraflex shock absorbers, and the Mark 1 (no lume numerals) vs Mark 2 (lume) split.
|}

== Pre-Explorer and early references (1952–1959) ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:6150|6150]] || 1952–1953 (or 1959) || A296 (non-COSC) || 36mm SS || First 3-6-9 layout; most dials say "Precision," not "Explorer"
|-
| [[Reference:6350|6350]] || 1953–1955 || A296 (COSC) || 36mm SS || First ref where ALL dials say "Explorer"; honeycomb variant
|-
| [[Reference:6610|6610]] || 1955–1959 || Cal. 1030 || 36mm SS || Upgraded movement; red depth rating and Albino variants
|}

== The foundation reference (1960–1989) ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:1016|1016]] || ~1960–1989 || Cal. 1560, then 1570 || 36mm SS || 29-year run; gilt Types 0–6, matte Marks 0–5; the definitive Explorer
|}

== Modern references (1989–2021) ==

{| class="wikitable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Case !! Key distinction
|-
| [[Reference:14270|14270]] || 1989–2001 || Cal. 3000 || 36mm SS || Sapphire crystal; Blackout variant; 5 dial generations
|-
| [[Reference:114270|114270]] || 2001–2010 || Cal. 3130 || 36mm SS || Parachrom hairspring; solid end links; engraved rehaut late
|-
| [[Reference:214270|214270]] || 2010–2021 || Cal. 3132 || 39mm SS || First size change in 57 years; Mark 1 (no lume) vs Mark 2 (lume)
|}

== Movement progression ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Caliber !! Frequency !! Power reserve !! Used in !! Notes
|-
| A296 || — || — || 6150, 6350 || Pre-1560 era; COSC-certified in 6350 only
|-
| 1030 || — || — || 6610 || Upgrade from A296; thinner caseback
|-
| 1560 || 18,000 vph || — || 1016 (early) || Microstella adjustment; first "Superlative Chronometer"
|-
| 1570 || 19,800 vph || — || 1016 (from ~1965) || Hacking added 1971
|-
| 3000 || 28,800 vph || 48 hr || 14270 || Last Rolex with balance cock
|-
| 3130 || 28,800 vph || 48 hr || 114270 || Parachrom hairspring; balance bridge
|-
| 3132 || 28,800 vph || 48 hr || 214270 || Paraflex shock absorbers
|}

== Explorer-adjacent curiosities ==

Not every steel-sport Rolex from this period wears the Explorer name, even when it shares the family's case and dial vocabulary. The Space-Dweller swaps the 1016's dial text for a Japanese-market variant and has never had its own reference number confirmed. The [[Reference:6429|6429 Commando]] is a smaller, cheaper, manual-wind 34mm watch Rolex sold through Abercrombie & Fitch in the late 1960s — Explorer-adjacent by case and dial language, not by name or by movement.

== Related families ==

* [[Reference:explorer-ii|Explorer-II]] — the 24-hour sibling. Same Explorer DNA, fixed bezel, an extra hour hand for cavers and polar workers.
* [[Reference:submariner|Submariner]] — the parallel 1953 launch. Same year, same case architecture, different tool job.
* [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] — the shared-case cousin. The 1500-family movement that powers the 1016 also powers the 5500; the 5504 wears a 1016 case with Air-King dial text.

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]] — date any Explorer from its serial
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]] — the calibers used across the Explorer line
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]] — bracelet types, end-links, and clasp date codes

== Sources ==
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-from-1953-36mm-1016-14270-114270-214270-124270-in-depth-review/ The History of the Rolex Explorer] — Frank Geelen, Monochrome Watches (2024)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I] — Jon Bues, Hodinkee (2022)
* [https://explorer1016.com/ Explorer1016.com] — Andrew Hantel (definitive 1016 dial variant resource)
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.rolex.com/watches/explorer Rolex.com Explorer Collection] — official current specs

[[Category:Explorer]]
[[Category:Family Index]]

Reference:6429

2026-08-11T17:12:35Z

Admin: Fix hard-rule-10 violation: move retail price out of intro, keep in Core-facts table only

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6429 Commando}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 6429 Commando — Abercrombie & Fitch's $100 Rolex, 1969 | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969 — a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster with a gilt-print "COMMANDO" dial, sold through Abercrombie & Fitch as the least expensive Rolex Oyster of its day. A parallel "No Commando" dial, without the name, reportedly went to U.S. military bases in the same serial range.
|keywords=Rolex, 6429, Commando, Abercrombie and Fitch, Explorer-adjacent, vintage Rolex, 1969
|image=Ref 6429 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] -> '''6429'''

[[File:Ref 6429 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial|Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969 — 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster on a period Oyster bracelet]]

The 6429 Commando is a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster that Rolex sold through Abercrombie & Fitch in the late 1960s, reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day at retail. The gilt-print "COMMANDO" text sits below "ROLEX OYSTER" on a black dial with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers and squared-off baton hands in place of the Mercedes hand the contemporary Explorer wore. A documented example dates to 1969.

'''Source density note.''' This reference is documented from a single primary source — Jon Bues's "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I" (Hodinkee, 2022), which places the 6429 alongside the Space-Dweller as one of the Explorer-adjacent curiosities of the 1960s. No auction lot, book chapter, or second editorial treatment specific to the 6429 was located. The article is written to that evidence level; claims are not padded beyond what the Hodinkee piece supports.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6429
|-
| family
| Explorer-adjacent (vintage / historical bucket)
|-
| common name
| "the Commando," "the Abercrombie Rolex"
|-
| production
| documented example dated 1969; no production window has been published
|-
| case
| 34mm, stainless steel Oyster
|-
| movement
| manual-wind (caliber not specified in the located source)
|-
| dial
| black, gilt-print "ROLEX OYSTER" and "COMMANDO" text, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers, "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation
|-
| hands
| squared-off baton hour and minute hands, in place of the Mercedes hand used on the contemporary Explorer
|-
| retail channel
| Abercrombie & Fitch (civilian); U.S. military base exchanges (the "No Commando" dial variant)
|-
| price at retail
| not much more than USD 100 — reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 6429 sits at the edge of the Explorer family rather than inside it. Hodinkee's Reference Points survey groups the 6429 with the Space-Dweller and the 1016 as Explorer-adjacent curiosities from the same period — watches built on Rolex's contemporary steel-sport case and dial vocabulary but sold under a different name, through a different channel, or into a different market than the mainline Explorer. Where the Space-Dweller keeps the 1016's case and movement and swaps only the dial text, the 6429 is a smaller, cheaper, manual-wind watch aimed at a retail partner rather than at the Explorer's expedition-tool positioning.

Abercrombie & Fitch's mid-century Swiss-watch retailing is better known for Heuer, whose A&F-branded chronographs are a recognized collecting category of their own. Rolex's participation in the same channel is the less-told half of that story, and the Commando is the watch that tells it.

== Production outline ==

The Hodinkee article dates the documented example to 1969 and gives no further production window — no start year, no end year, and no total output figure. The "No Commando" military-channel dial is described as running in a serial range close to the Commando example, which places both dial variants in the same narrow production moment rather than as a long-running split. Nothing in the located source supports a production span wider than the late 1960s, and this article does not assert one.

== Dial map ==

=== "COMMANDO" gilt dial (Abercrombie & Fitch channel) ===

[[File:Ref 6429 commando-dial-detail.webp|thumb|center|320px|alt=Rolex 6429 Commando dial detail|Dial detail: gilt COMMANDO text, 3-6-9 numerals, SWISS-T<25 tritium marking]]

Black dial, gilt-print "ROLEX" over "OYSTER" above the center, "COMMANDO" in gilt script beneath it, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals with applied stick markers at the remaining hours, and a "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation at six. Squared-off baton hands rather than the Explorer's Mercedes hand. This is the civilian configuration sold through Abercrombie & Fitch.

=== "No Commando" plain dial (military-channel) ===

[[File:Ref 6429 no-commando.webp|thumb|center|320px|alt=Rolex 6429 No Commando variant|The "No Commando" variant — plain ROLEX OYSTER dial, reportedly sold through U.S. military base exchanges]]
[[File:Ref 6429 no-commando-dial-detail.webp|thumb|center|320px|alt=Rolex 6429 No Commando dial detail|Dial detail showing the squared-off baton hands used in place of the Mercedes hand]]

The same dial layout with the "COMMANDO" line dropped — the dial reads simply "ROLEX OYSTER." Hodinkee's account describes U.S. military bases reportedly selling this plainer version concurrently with Abercrombie & Fitch's civilian Commando, in a close serial range, "to give it a bit more of a stealthy appearance." The documented No Commando example also dates to 1969.

== Authentication ==

Hodinkee flags the 6429 as commonly faked, specifically warning that reproduction "Commando" dials turn up inside both 6426 and 6429 cases. The 6426 is a separate, unrelated Oyster Precision reference — its appearance here is only as a documented host case for faked Commando dials, not as a second genuine Commando reference. A 6429 offered with a Commando dial needs the dial text, the case reference, and the movement checked against each other before the "Commando" premium is paid; a plain "No Commando" dial in a 6429 case is not, by itself, evidence of anything wrong.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1016|1016 Explorer]] — the mainline Explorer this generation of Rolex's steel-sport catalogue is built around.
* [[Reference:explorer|Explorer family index]]

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]]
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]]

== Sources ==

* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Jon Bues, "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I", Hodinkee, 2022]

[[Category:Explorer]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:6429

2026-08-11T17:12:05Z

Admin: Place dial-detail and No-Commando comparison images

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6429 Commando}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 6429 Commando — Abercrombie & Fitch's $100 Rolex, 1969 | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969 — a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster with a gilt-print "COMMANDO" dial, sold through Abercrombie & Fitch as the least expensive Rolex Oyster of its day. A parallel "No Commando" dial, without the name, reportedly went to U.S. military bases in the same serial range.
|keywords=Rolex, 6429, Commando, Abercrombie and Fitch, Explorer-adjacent, vintage Rolex, 1969
|image=Ref 6429 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] -> '''6429'''

[[File:Ref 6429 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial|Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969 — 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster on a period Oyster bracelet]]

The 6429 Commando is a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster that Rolex sold through Abercrombie & Fitch in the late 1960s, priced at not much more than $100 — reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day. The gilt-print "COMMANDO" text sits below "ROLEX OYSTER" on a black dial with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers and squared-off baton hands in place of the Mercedes hand the contemporary Explorer wore. A documented example dates to 1969.

'''Source density note.''' This reference is documented from a single primary source — Jon Bues's "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I" (Hodinkee, 2022), which places the 6429 alongside the Space-Dweller as one of the Explorer-adjacent curiosities of the 1960s. No auction lot, book chapter, or second editorial treatment specific to the 6429 was located. The article is written to that evidence level; claims are not padded beyond what the Hodinkee piece supports.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6429
|-
| family
| Explorer-adjacent (vintage / historical bucket)
|-
| common name
| "the Commando," "the Abercrombie Rolex"
|-
| production
| documented example dated 1969; no production window has been published
|-
| case
| 34mm, stainless steel Oyster
|-
| movement
| manual-wind (caliber not specified in the located source)
|-
| dial
| black, gilt-print "ROLEX OYSTER" and "COMMANDO" text, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers, "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation
|-
| hands
| squared-off baton hour and minute hands, in place of the Mercedes hand used on the contemporary Explorer
|-
| retail channel
| Abercrombie & Fitch (civilian); U.S. military base exchanges (the "No Commando" dial variant)
|-
| price at retail
| not much more than USD 100 — reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 6429 sits at the edge of the Explorer family rather than inside it. Hodinkee's Reference Points survey groups the 6429 with the Space-Dweller and the 1016 as Explorer-adjacent curiosities from the same period — watches built on Rolex's contemporary steel-sport case and dial vocabulary but sold under a different name, through a different channel, or into a different market than the mainline Explorer. Where the Space-Dweller keeps the 1016's case and movement and swaps only the dial text, the 6429 is a smaller, cheaper, manual-wind watch aimed at a retail partner rather than at the Explorer's expedition-tool positioning.

Abercrombie & Fitch's mid-century Swiss-watch retailing is better known for Heuer, whose A&F-branded chronographs are a recognized collecting category of their own. Rolex's participation in the same channel is the less-told half of that story, and the Commando is the watch that tells it.

== Production outline ==

The Hodinkee article dates the documented example to 1969 and gives no further production window — no start year, no end year, and no total output figure. The "No Commando" military-channel dial is described as running in a serial range close to the Commando example, which places both dial variants in the same narrow production moment rather than as a long-running split. Nothing in the located source supports a production span wider than the late 1960s, and this article does not assert one.

== Dial map ==

=== "COMMANDO" gilt dial (Abercrombie & Fitch channel) ===

[[File:Ref 6429 commando-dial-detail.webp|thumb|center|320px|alt=Rolex 6429 Commando dial detail|Dial detail: gilt COMMANDO text, 3-6-9 numerals, SWISS-T<25 tritium marking]]

Black dial, gilt-print "ROLEX" over "OYSTER" above the center, "COMMANDO" in gilt script beneath it, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals with applied stick markers at the remaining hours, and a "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation at six. Squared-off baton hands rather than the Explorer's Mercedes hand. This is the civilian configuration sold through Abercrombie & Fitch.

=== "No Commando" plain dial (military-channel) ===

[[File:Ref 6429 no-commando.webp|thumb|center|320px|alt=Rolex 6429 No Commando variant|The "No Commando" variant — plain ROLEX OYSTER dial, reportedly sold through U.S. military base exchanges]]
[[File:Ref 6429 no-commando-dial-detail.webp|thumb|center|320px|alt=Rolex 6429 No Commando dial detail|Dial detail showing the squared-off baton hands used in place of the Mercedes hand]]

The same dial layout with the "COMMANDO" line dropped — the dial reads simply "ROLEX OYSTER." Hodinkee's account describes U.S. military bases reportedly selling this plainer version concurrently with Abercrombie & Fitch's civilian Commando, in a close serial range, "to give it a bit more of a stealthy appearance." The documented No Commando example also dates to 1969.

== Authentication ==

Hodinkee flags the 6429 as commonly faked, specifically warning that reproduction "Commando" dials turn up inside both 6426 and 6429 cases. The 6426 is a separate, unrelated Oyster Precision reference — its appearance here is only as a documented host case for faked Commando dials, not as a second genuine Commando reference. A 6429 offered with a Commando dial needs the dial text, the case reference, and the movement checked against each other before the "Commando" premium is paid; a plain "No Commando" dial in a 6429 case is not, by itself, evidence of anything wrong.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1016|1016 Explorer]] — the mainline Explorer this generation of Rolex's steel-sport catalogue is built around.
* [[Reference:explorer|Explorer family index]]

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]]
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]]

== Sources ==

* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Jon Bues, "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I", Hodinkee, 2022]

[[Category:Explorer]]
[[Category:References]]

File:Ref 6429 no-commando-dial-detail.webp

2026-08-11T17:11:54Z

Admin: Rolex 6429 "No Commando" dial detail, showing the squared-off baton hands used in place of the Mercedes hand. Source: Hodinkee, 2022.

Rolex 6429 "No Commando" dial detail, showing the squared-off baton hands used in place of the Mercedes hand. Source: Hodinkee, 2022.

File:Ref 6429 no-commando.webp

2026-08-11T17:11:54Z

Admin: Rolex 6429 "No Commando" variant, 1969 — plain "ROLEX OYSTER" dial without the Commando name, reportedly sold through U.S. military base exchanges. Source: Hodinkee, 2022.

Rolex 6429 "No Commando" variant, 1969 — plain "ROLEX OYSTER" dial without the Commando name, reportedly sold through U.S. military base exchanges. Source: Hodinkee, 2022.

File:Ref 6429 commando-dial-detail.webp

2026-08-11T17:11:54Z

Admin: Rolex 6429 Commando dial detail, showing gilt "COMMANDO" text, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, and SWISS-T<25 tritium designation. Source: Hodinkee, 2022.

Rolex 6429 Commando dial detail, showing gilt "COMMANDO" text, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, and SWISS-T<25 tritium designation. Source: Hodinkee, 2022.

File:Ref 6429 hero.webp

2026-08-11T17:11:53Z

Admin: Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969, black gilt-print dial, steel Oyster case and bracelet. Source: Hodinkee, "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I" (Jon Bues, 2022).

Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969, black gilt-print dial, steel Oyster case and bracelet. Source: Hodinkee, "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I" (Jon Bues, 2022).

Reference:6429

2026-08-11T17:11:42Z

Admin: New article: 6429 Commando, admitted to vintage/historical bucket per editorial decision

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 6429 Commando}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 6429 Commando — Abercrombie & Fitch's $100 Rolex, 1969 | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969 — a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster with a gilt-print "COMMANDO" dial, sold through Abercrombie & Fitch as the least expensive Rolex Oyster of its day. A parallel "No Commando" dial, without the name, reportedly went to U.S. military bases in the same serial range.
|keywords=Rolex, 6429, Commando, Abercrombie and Fitch, Explorer-adjacent, vintage Rolex, 1969
|image=Ref 6429 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] -> '''6429'''

[[File:Ref 6429 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 6429 Commando black dial|Rolex 6429 Commando, 1969 — 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster on a period Oyster bracelet]]

The 6429 Commando is a 34mm manual-wind steel Oyster that Rolex sold through Abercrombie & Fitch in the late 1960s, priced at not much more than $100 — reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day. The gilt-print "COMMANDO" text sits below "ROLEX OYSTER" on a black dial with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers and squared-off baton hands in place of the Mercedes hand the contemporary Explorer wore. A documented example dates to 1969.

'''Source density note.''' This reference is documented from a single primary source — Jon Bues's "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I" (Hodinkee, 2022), which places the 6429 alongside the Space-Dweller as one of the Explorer-adjacent curiosities of the 1960s. No auction lot, book chapter, or second editorial treatment specific to the 6429 was located. The article is written to that evidence level; claims are not padded beyond what the Hodinkee piece supports.

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 6429
|-
| family
| Explorer-adjacent (vintage / historical bucket)
|-
| common name
| "the Commando," "the Abercrombie Rolex"
|-
| production
| documented example dated 1969; no production window has been published
|-
| case
| 34mm, stainless steel Oyster
|-
| movement
| manual-wind (caliber not specified in the located source)
|-
| dial
| black, gilt-print "ROLEX OYSTER" and "COMMANDO" text, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, applied stick markers, "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation
|-
| hands
| squared-off baton hour and minute hands, in place of the Mercedes hand used on the contemporary Explorer
|-
| retail channel
| Abercrombie & Fitch (civilian); U.S. military base exchanges (the "No Commando" dial variant)
|-
| price at retail
| not much more than USD 100 — reportedly the least expensive Rolex Oyster watch of its day
|}

== Where it sits in the line ==

The 6429 sits at the edge of the Explorer family rather than inside it. Hodinkee's Reference Points survey groups the 6429 with the Space-Dweller and the 1016 as Explorer-adjacent curiosities from the same period — watches built on Rolex's contemporary steel-sport case and dial vocabulary but sold under a different name, through a different channel, or into a different market than the mainline Explorer. Where the Space-Dweller keeps the 1016's case and movement and swaps only the dial text, the 6429 is a smaller, cheaper, manual-wind watch aimed at a retail partner rather than at the Explorer's expedition-tool positioning.

Abercrombie & Fitch's mid-century Swiss-watch retailing is better known for Heuer, whose A&F-branded chronographs are a recognized collecting category of their own. Rolex's participation in the same channel is the less-told half of that story, and the Commando is the watch that tells it.

== Production outline ==

The Hodinkee article dates the documented example to 1969 and gives no further production window — no start year, no end year, and no total output figure. The "No Commando" military-channel dial is described as running in a serial range close to the Commando example, which places both dial variants in the same narrow production moment rather than as a long-running split. Nothing in the located source supports a production span wider than the late 1960s, and this article does not assert one.

== Dial map ==

=== "COMMANDO" gilt dial (Abercrombie & Fitch channel) ===

Black dial, gilt-print "ROLEX" over "OYSTER" above the center, "COMMANDO" in gilt script beneath it, 3-6-9 Arabic numerals with applied stick markers at the remaining hours, and a "SWISS – T < 25" tritium designation at six. Squared-off baton hands rather than the Explorer's Mercedes hand. This is the civilian configuration sold through Abercrombie & Fitch.

=== "No Commando" plain dial (military-channel) ===

The same dial layout with the "COMMANDO" line dropped — the dial reads simply "ROLEX OYSTER." Hodinkee's account describes U.S. military bases reportedly selling this plainer version concurrently with Abercrombie & Fitch's civilian Commando, in a close serial range, "to give it a bit more of a stealthy appearance." The documented No Commando example also dates to 1969.

== Authentication ==

Hodinkee flags the 6429 as commonly faked, specifically warning that reproduction "Commando" dials turn up inside both 6426 and 6429 cases. The 6426 is a separate, unrelated Oyster Precision reference — its appearance here is only as a documented host case for faked Commando dials, not as a second genuine Commando reference. A 6429 offered with a Commando dial needs the dial text, the case reference, and the movement checked against each other before the "Commando" premium is paid; a plain "No Commando" dial in a 6429 case is not, by itself, evidence of anything wrong.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1016|1016 Explorer]] — the mainline Explorer this generation of Rolex's steel-sport catalogue is built around.
* [[Reference:explorer|Explorer family index]]

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]]
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]]
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]]

== Sources ==

* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Jon Bues, "A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I", Hodinkee, 2022]

[[Category:Explorer]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:114200

2026-08-11T17:07:33Z

Admin: Clarify 114200 2007-2020 reading: reference number reused for OP-34 post-2014, not continuous Air-King production (primary-sourced via rolex.com Wayback)

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 114200 Air-King}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 114200 Air-King — First COSC-Certified Air-King, Cal 3130 | BezelBase
|description=The 114200 is the first chronometer-rated Air-King — 2007 to 2014, 34mm steel Oyster, Cal 3130 with Parachrom hairspring. Engraved rehaut, concentric "wave" dial palette in multiple colors, Domino's Pizza 114200 documented at Christie's. Closes the 34mm Air-King chapter before the 116900 redesign.
|keywords=Rolex, 114200, Air-King, COSC chronometer, Cal 3130, concentric wave dial, engraved rehaut
|image=Ref 114200 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 114200 Air-King silver concentric dial
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-05-02T02:33:36Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:06:50Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] -> '''114200'''

The 114200 is the modern Air-King: launched at Baselworld 2007, dropped from the catalogue in 2014, a 34mm steel Oyster running Cal. 3130 with a Parachrom hairspring. It is also the first chronometer-rated Air-King in the line's history. Every earlier reference ran sub-COSC, with dials reading "PRECISION" or "SUPER PRECISION"; the 114200 arrives with "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED" on the dial and the Air-King finally joins the tier the rest of the Rolex catalogue had occupied for decades.

It also brings the concentric "wave" dial, circles radiating from the center out to the chapter ring, offered in silver, black, blue, green, salmon, white and champagne, and paired with applied stick markers, 3-6-9 Explorer Arabic numerals, Roman numerals or a full set of Arabics at every hour. The dial menu is the widest the Air-King line ever ran, and it is what most 114200 buyers are actually shopping for. This is also the last 34mm Air-King: the line goes quiet in 2014 and returns in 2016 as the 40mm 116900.



[[File:Ref 114200 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 114200 Air-King silver concentric dial|Rolex Air-King 114200, silver concentric "wave" dial, c.2010]]

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 114200 (engine-turned bezel sister: 114210; white-gold-bezel sibling: 114234)
|-
| family
| Air-King
|-
| common name
| "the modern Air-King," "the COSC Air-King," "the concentric Air-King"
|-
| production
| 2007–2014 as the Air-King, per most editorial histories, consistent with the 2-year catalogue gap before the 116900 arrived in 2016; Rolex's own site shows the bare reference number 114200 continuing to 2020 as a non-Air-King Oyster Perpetual 34, the likely source of a specialist reading giving 2007–2020
|-
| case
| 34mm × ~11.6mm × 41.7mm L2L stainless steel Oyster, smooth bezel, 19mm non-drilled lugs
|-
| crystal
| sapphire
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| movement
| Cal 3130, automatic, 28,800 vph, ~48h reserve, hack feature, Parachrom hairspring; jewel count contested (Slaven/Monochrome and Robb Report: 31; Siems: 27)
|-
| chronometer
| yes — first COSC-certified Air-King; dial reads "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED"
|-
| rehaut
| engraved with repeating "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" + serial number, post-2005 Rolex convention; present on 114200 from launch
|-
| water resistance
| 100m
|-
| bracelet
| 78350 19mm Oyster with 557B solid end-links, 904L steel
|-
| caseback
| screw-down threaded Oyster, smooth exterior
|-
| predecessor
| 14000M (2000–2006, Cal 3130 without engraved rehaut, non-COSC)
|-
| successor
| 116900 (2016, 40mm pilot redesign — outside pre-2020 collector window for many editorial frames)
|}


== Where it sits in the line ==

The 114200 closes the 34mm Air-King chapter that runs from the 4925 (1945) through the 6552 (1953) and the 5500 (1957) into the sapphire-crystal era of the 14000 (1989) and 14000M (2000). Across those seventy years the case envelope never moves off 34mm, the dial text alternates between "AIR-KING" and "OYSTER PERPETUAL," and the movement steps from manual wind to bidirectional rotor to high beat. The 114200 adds the one thing the line had never carried: chronometer certification.

The no-date Cal. 3130 architecture is shared with the 14060M Submariner, which picked up COSC dial text in later production, and with the [[Reference:114270|114270 Explorer]]. The earlier 14270 Explorer belongs to the Cal. 3000 generation, and the Yacht-Master date references use a different movement family. Cal. 3130 itself runs across the Rolex time-only catalogue from 1999 / 2000 to 2018, when the Cal. 3230 generation replaces it. The 114200 sits in the same architectural moment as those siblings: engraved rehaut, COSC certification, Parachrom hairspring.

The 114200 shares its case middle with two contemporaries. The 114210 carries a fluted engine-turned bezel, the 114234 a fluted white-gold bezel set into the steel case middle; both run alongside the 114200 across 2007–2014 on the same Cal. 3130 and the same dial palette. Whether they count as separate references or as 114200 sub-variants is a matter of taste, and the Air-King family hub treats all three as one generation. The 114200 is the steel-and-smooth-bezel pure Air-King of the set.

The line then goes quiet. Nothing replaces the 114200 in 2014, and the 116900 that revives the name in 2016 is a 40mm redesign rather than a 34mm successor.


== Production outline ==

Marcus Siems' Air-King family history (September 2025), Erik Slaven at Monochrome (January 2025), Robb Report's Air-King guide (Allen Farmelo and Gareth Munden, September 2024) and Watch-Wiki all give 2007 as the introduction year. The 114200 ships at Baselworld 2007 alongside the 114210 engine-turned-bezel sister and the 114234 white-gold-bezel sibling, and the three trade in parallel through to 2014.

The 2014 retirement is equally settled. Rolex drops the Air-King from the catalogue at Baselworld 2014, and Robin Nooy at Monochrome (March 2016) frames the 116900 launch as a return after the line was "dropped from the collection." Two years is the longest break in the Air-King's catalogue presence since the 1945 introduction.

A few secondary outlets stretch the run "until 2016," which conflates the discontinuation with the line's return on a different reference. The primary editorial — Monochrome, Siems, Robb Report — consistently gives 2014 as the production end. 2007–2014 is the active span.

Rolex's own archived catalogue offers a likely explanation for the 2007–2020 reading some specialist sources give. The bare reference number 114200 does not disappear from rolex.com after 2014 — it stays live on the official site through August 2020, then drops out entirely by September 2020, the same week Rolex replaced the standard Oyster Perpetual line's 116000, 114300 and 176200/177200 with 126000, 124300 and 277200. That later run of 114200 carries plain "OYSTER PERPETUAL" dial text rather than "AIR-KING" — Rolex appears to have reassigned the reference number to the Oyster Perpetual 34 once the Air-King name moved off it in 2014, rather than continuing Air-King production to 2020. A source reading '2007–2020' is most plausibly tracking that reused catalogue number rather than a continuous Air-King run. This article's 2007–2014 Air-King figure stands; the 2014–2020 continuation is a different watch under the same number and is not covered here.

The reference is recent enough that most surviving examples are documented through dealer-market sales rather than catalogued auction lots. Christie's is the exception: the "Jewels and Watches Online: La Dolce Vita" sale 21040, lot 136, a full-set Domino's Pizza 114200 from c.2013 with case number 96A51575. Phillips, Sotheby's, Bonhams and Antiquorum have not catalogued the reference.


== Movement notes ==

The 114200 runs Cal. 3130, the same movement fitted to the contemporary 14060M Submariner and the [[Reference:114270|114270 Explorer]] and used across the Rolex time-only catalogue from 1999 / 2000 through 2018: 28,800 vph (4 Hz), roughly 48 hours of reserve, hacking seconds, bidirectional self-winding, and the blue paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring Rolex rolled out from c.2005, present on the 114200 from launch.

Jewel count is contested. Erik Slaven at Monochrome and Robb Report both read the 114200-era Cal. 3130 as a 31-jewel movement, up from the 27 jewels of the Cal. 3000 in the [[Reference:14000#movement-notes|14000 era]]; Marcus Siems' Air-King family history gives 27. The 31-jewel figure holds the majority position, and nothing in the production record points to a running change inside the reference. The disagreement reads as a source error rather than as two configurations.

COSC certification is the architectural break with everything before it. The 4925's Cal. 10½ Hunter, the 6552's Cal. 1030, the 5500's Cal. 1530 and 1520, the 14000's Cal. 3000 and the 14000M's Cal. 3130 all shipped uncertified, with "PRECISION" or "SUPER PRECISION" on the dial depending on era.

The 14000M-to-114200 handoff shows how little of that was mechanical. Cal. 3130 is the same movement in both references. What changed is that Rolex sent the 114200's movements to COSC before casing and did not send the [[Reference:14000M#movement-notes|14000M]]'s.


== Case and construction ==

34mm across, approximately 11.6mm thick, 41.7mm lug to lug, a three-piece stainless steel Oyster of case middle, threaded caseback and threaded crown. Nominal dimensions match the 14000M, though the 114200 wears heavier than its predecessor. Lugs are 19mm with non-drilled spring-bar holes, following the 14000-era convention. The bezel on the 114200 is fixed, smooth steel; the engine-turned version lives on the 114210.

The crystal is sapphire and the crown a Twinlock screw-down. Water resistance stays at 100m, unchanged from the 14000 era.

Every 114200 is steel. No precious-metal example surfaces in the auction record, and the gold-trimmed Air-Kings of the 2007–2014 window carry their own reference numbers — the 114234 white-gold-bezel sibling, and the gem-set sub-variants that sit outside this reference entirely.


== Engraved rehaut ==

The 114200 has the engraved rehaut from launch in 2007. The inner ring around the dial carries repeating "ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX" text plus the watch's serial number, matched to the serial engraved between the lugs. Rolex adopted the convention across the steel sport line from 2005; on the Air-King, late 14000M production may show it, but on the 114200 it is standard from the first examples.

The repetition is fine pantograph engraving, cut rather than printed, and it reproduces badly on counterfeits.


== Dial map ==

No other Air-King ran a dial catalogue this wide. The concentric "wave" pattern arrives with the reference and combines with a color range the 14000 era never had — silver, black, blue, green, salmon, white, champagne — across applied stick markers, 3-6-9 Explorer Arabics, full Roman numerals and full Arabics, with the outer ring finished sunburst soleil, brushed or matte. Documented configurations run into double figures. White and champagne dials appear in the editorial record but reach the market far less often than the silver, black and blue concentrics.

One nickname needs correcting. "Tutti Frutti" belongs to the gem-set Yacht-Master configurations with multi-color sapphire bezels, not to the Air-King; it turns up in dealer copy attached to the 114200's multi-color dials, where it has never been right. These are the concentric or wave dials.


=== Silver concentric (wave) ===

The volume dial. Sunburst silver outer ring, concentric circles running in from the center to the chapter ring, applied stick or baton hour markers, "OYSTER PERPETUAL" and "AIR-KING" in two lines above six with "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED" above them. This is the 114200 most people mean when they say 114200.


=== Black concentric (wave) ===

The same concentric pattern on a matte black ground, documented across the production and carrying a moderate premium over silver.


=== Blue concentric with orange Arabic numerals ===

The 114200 dial collectors actually chase. Sunburst blue outer ring, circular concentric inner section, applied orange Arabic numerals at every hour and no luminous fill at all — the orange against blue does the legibility work on its own. It goes by "Air-King concentric blue" or simply "the blue 114200," and it trades at a substantial premium to the standard configurations.


=== Pink salmon concentric ===

Salmon ground with the concentric pattern, applied stick or Roman numeral indices. The 14000-era salmon palette carries over to the 114200 and picks up the concentric finish.


=== Green concentric ===

Sunburst green outer with a concentric inner section, usually applied stick markers. Monochrome's Air-King history names green among the catalogue colors, but it reaches the dealer market less often than blue or salmon.


=== 3-6-9 Explorer dial ===

The Explorer layout the 5500 made famous and the 14000 carried over continues here: Arabic numerals at three, six and nine with batons or sticks elsewhere, on a black or silvered ground that may be concentric or flat. Erik Slaven at Monochrome calls it "a standard arrangement" on the 114200 — a catalogue option rather than a rarity.


=== Roman numeral dial ===

Roman numerals at every hour or at the cardinal positions, on silvered, black or salmon grounds. The Roman 114200 reads closer to a Datejust than to a traditional Air-King, and it belongs to the same appeal-widening catalogue as the rest of the palette.


=== Applied Arabic numeral dial ===

A full set of applied Arabic numerals at every hour rather than the 3-6-9 Explorer subset, on silvered or black grounds.


=== Silver 3-6-9 with pink lume markers ===

A separate branch, documented on full-set 2012 examples. The ground stays silver; the color sits in the pink luminous blocks of a 3-6-9 layout. It is not the salmon concentric dial under another name, and it is a dial execution worth recording rather than a nickname category of its own.


== Bracelets ==

19mm Oyster across the production. The 114200 era moves case and bracelet to 904L stainless steel, the alloy Rolex adopted across the catalogue after 2003. The bracelet is the 78350 on 557B solid end-links, the refined version of the 14000-era 557, closed by the modern Oysterclasp with its 5mm Easylink comfort extension.

Nothing about the bracelet platform changed at the 14000M handoff. What changed is the steel grade and the Easylink clasp, both catalogue-wide moves in the same window.

A folded-link Jubilee was a period catalogue option and turns up on a minority of surviving examples, mostly the Roman-numeral and Arabic-numeral dials sold into the Datejust-adjacent market.


== Special branches ==


=== Domino's Pizza 114200 ===

[[File:Ref 114200 dominos detail.webp|thumb|right|260px|alt=Rolex 114200 Dominos detail|Rolex Air-King 114200 Dominos Pizza, dial logo + caseback commemorative engraving]]

The Domino's Pizza incentive program carried on from the 5500 and 14000 era to the 114200. Christie's "Jewels and Watches Online: La Dolce Vita" sale 21040, lot 136 documents one: c.2013, case 96A51575, Cal. 3130, full set with original box and papers. The dial is a silvered Explorer 3-6-9 with Arabic numerals at three, six and nine, the Domino's logo sits on a center bracelet link rather than on the dial itself, and the awardee's commemorative engraving is on the caseback.

Christie's condition report gives the dial as clean and original with only light case wear, and the lot kept its original guarantee and sales tag. The paperwork is what makes the example useful: it ties the watch to a 2013 delivery rather than to a bracelet or caseback added later, which on a presentation piece matters as much as where the logo sits.

The 114200 is the last documented Domino's Air-King reference — the program wound down in the early 2010s, before Rolex moved past the 114200 in 2014. Examples surface less often than the 5500 and 14000 Domino's pieces.


=== 114210 engine-turned-bezel sibling ===

Twin to the 114200 across 2007–2014, differing only in its fluted engine-turned bezel. Collectors split on whether it is an Air-King sub-variant or a Datejust-adjacent reference of its own; the Air-King family hub keeps it inside the 114200 generation.


=== 114234 white-gold-bezel sibling ===

A steel case with a fluted white-gold bezel set into the case middle, otherwise a 114200: same case middle, same Cal. 3130, same dial palette. It sits at the precious-metal-trim end of the generation and trades at a substantial premium to the steel-only reference.


=== Signed and commemorative dials ===

Tiffany & Co.-signed, Cartier-signed and government-crest 114200s (Saudi, UAE, Bahrain, Kuwait) do not appear in the auction record through 2025. Modern references digitise more slowly than vintage ones, so the gap is not proof that none were made. But nothing documented currently supports them.


== Historical market and auction record ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year !! Reference details !! Result
|-
| Christie's Jewels and Watches Online "La Dolce Vita" || 136 || c.2018 || 114200 Domino's Pizza c.2013, case 96A51575, Cal 3130, full set || estimate and hammer not published
|}

Regional UK and US auctioneers and the dealer market carry the 114200; the headline Geneva and New York catalogues do not. The Christie's La Dolce Vita Domino's lot is the strongest auction-house anchor the reference has.

Pricing across the dealer market sits in the USD 4,500–7,000 band for standard silver and black concentric examples in clean condition. Blue concentric with orange Arabic, salmon, and green configurations carry premiums into the USD 8,000–12,000 range. Domino's, the 114210 fluted-bezel sibling, and the 114234 white-gold-bezel sibling all trade at distinct premium tiers tied to their specific configurations.


== The 114200-to-116900 redesign ==

The Air-King leaves the Rolex catalogue at Baselworld 2014 and comes back at Baselworld 2016 as the 116900, at 40mm and as a redesign rather than a successor. Robin Nooy's Monochrome hands-on review (March 2016) frames the launch as a return after the line was "dropped from the collection," and editorial has treated the 116900 as a reset ever since.

The design language shares little with the 114200. The case grows 6mm. The dial takes stylized Arabic numerals at three, six and nine, a green seconds hand and a heavier "AIR-KING" wordmark, and the movement sits inside a soft-iron Faraday cage of the kind Rolex uses on the Milgauss. The 1940s aviation-numeral dial reads back to the 4925 era's pilot-watch commemoration; it does not read forward from the 5500 / 14000 / 14000M / 114200 entry-tier sport Oyster lineage.

So the 114200 closes the continuous 34mm chapter, and it is sometimes treated as the family's modern-era closing piece. The 116900 and its 2022 126900 successor belong to their own design language, and editorial coverage of the Air-King generally splits at the 2014/2016 boundary.


== Authentication ==

Verification on a 114200 is easier than on any vintage Air-King. The rehaut is the cleanest single anchor: its serial must match the engraving between the lugs exactly. A mismatch flags case replacement, and modern counterfeit production routinely gets the two engravings out of step.

The case stamp inside the caseback should read 114200. Early examples can be checked against late letter-prefix serial ranges, but Rolex moved to randomized alphanumeric serials around 2010; on later 114200s the serial alone will not assign a production year, and the warranty card or sale record becomes the stronger date anchor.

The movement should be Cal. 3130. A Cal. 3000 in a 114200 is a swap out of the 14000 generation and wrong for the reference; a Cal. 3132 or any 32XX is equally wrong here, though those are genuine Rolex movements from elsewhere in the catalogue rather than invented calibers. The blue Parachrom hairspring should be visible inside the balance assembly on every example.

The concentric pattern is engraved, not printed. Counterfeit dials tend to screen-print it, and the result reads flatter and coarser than the pantograph-cut original. A loupe on the concentric finish is the fastest dial check the reference offers.

The bracelet should be a 78350 on 557B end-links in 904L steel. A matte 14000-era 557 end-link is a service refit, as is any post-2014 Oyster bracelet reference. The clasp should be the modern Oysterclasp with the 5mm Easylink extension; anything older has been replaced.

Restoration barely enters the picture. The reference is recent enough that most survivors still wear their original dials, so a spotless 114200 is plausible rather than suspect.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:4365|Air-King 4365]]
* [[Reference:4499|Air-King 4499]]
* [[Reference:4925|Air-King 4925]]
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — 34mm Oyster (1957–1989)
* [[Reference:5501|Air-King 5501]]
* [[Reference:5502|Air-King 5502]]

See also the [[Reference:air-king|Air-King family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.rescapement.com/blog/rolex-air-king-history Tony Traina, "Rolex Air-King History: The Forgotten King", Rescapement]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-rolex-air-king-the-underrated-pilots-watch/ Erik Slaven, "History of the Rolex Air-King, the underrated pilots watch", Monochrome Watches, 2025]
* [https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-airking-origin-history-and-design-evolution Marcus Siems, "Rolex Air-King Origin History and Design Evolution", Goldammer]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/complete-guide-to-the-rolex-air-king-1945-to-present-1235881849/ "The Complete Guide to Rolex Air-King Watches From 1945 to Present", Robb Report]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/hands-on-review-rolex-oyster-perpetual-air-king-ref-116900-40mm-baselworld-2016-live-pics-price/ Robin Nooy, "Hands-On Review Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King ref 116900 40mm Baselworld 2016", Monochrome Watches, 2016]
* [https://onlineonly.christies.com.cn/s/jewels-watches-online-la-dolce-vita/rolex-oyster-perpetual-air-king-dominos-pizza-ref-114200-136/144839 "Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air King Per Dominos Pizza Ref 114200", Christie's]
* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_air-king "Rolex Air-King", Watch-Wiki]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-air-king-reference-114200-pink-hour-markers-unpolished-full-set Eric Wind, "Rolex Air-King Reference 114200 Pink Hour Markers Unpolished Full Set Wind Vintage", Wind Vintage]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/the-king-is-dead-long-live-the-king/ Ross Povey, "The King is Dead Long Live The King — Air-King transition 14000-116900 Ross Povey Revolution", Revolution Watch, 2020]
* [https://therake.com/default/stories/the-king-is-dead-long-live-the-king Ross Povey, "The King is Dead Long Live The King The Rake Povey syndicated", The Rake, 2020]

[[Category:Air-King]]

Reference:1007

2026-08-11T16:53:21Z

Admin: Fact fix: drop stale widest-dial-spread superlative, now inaccurate vs 1002

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 1007 Oyster Perpetual}}

{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1007 — Engine-Turned Bezel, 1959–1980s | BezelBase
|description=The 1007 is the engine-turned member of the 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual line — 34mm, steel and solid gold, caliber 1560 then 1570, c.1959 into the early 1980s. Tiffany & Co. and Serpico y Laino retailer dials, a blue horizontal-brushed one-off, and the Sotheby's 'Snoopy' character dial.
|image=Ref 1007 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1007 — steel, blue horizontal-brushed dial, engine-turned bezel, Oyster bracelet
|keywords=Rolex 1007, Oyster Perpetual, engine-turned bezel, cal 1560, cal 1570, Tiffany & Co. dial, Serpico y Laino, Snoopy dial, 7205 rivet Oyster, 34mm
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-08-10T21:37:56Z
|modified_time=2026-08-10T21:41:14Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual]] -> '''1007'''

The 1007 is the engine-turned member of the 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetual line. Same 34mm Oyster case as the 1002, same caliber 1560 and then caliber 1570, same chronometer certification and acrylic crystal; the difference is a wide, flat bezel milled with alternating cut and polished segments instead of a plain polished surround. It ran from around 1959 into the early 1980s, in steel and in solid gold, with a documented dial spread covering silvered, black, and the Snoopy custom-dial curiosity detailed below.

Rolex applied the engine-turned treatment across several reference numbers at once, so the 1007 has to be read against its immediate siblings rather than on its own. What separates it in practice is variety: retailer-signed dials for Tiffany & Co. and for Serpico y Laino, gold cases in both 14 and 18 carat, a blue horizontal-brushed dial nobody has been able to match to a second example, and a 1967 steel watch whose dial carries a printed cartoon beagle.

[[File:Ref 1007 hero.webp|thumb|right|340px|Steel 1007 with a blue horizontal-brushed dial and the reference's engine-turned bezel]]

==Core facts==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 1007
|-
| family
| Oyster Perpetual
|-
| production
| c.1959 into the early 1980s
|-
| case diameter
| 34mm
|-
| lug width
| 19mm
|-
| thickness
| c.12mm
|-
| case material
| stainless steel; 14k and 18k yellow gold; steel with gold bezel
|-
| bezel
| engine-turned, wide and flat; catalogued variously as reeded, ribbed or milled
|-
| crystal
| acrylic
|-
| movement
| caliber 1560 (to c.1965), then caliber 1570
|-
| certification
| Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified
|-
| date complication
| none
|-
| bracelet
| 7205 rivet Oyster (19mm, 57 or 60 end links), later 78350 Oyster; Jubilee and leather also original
|-
| sibling references
| 1002 (smooth), 1003 / 1006 / 1008 (engine-turned), 1005 (fluted gold)
|-
| oversized relative
| [[Reference:1018
| 1018]], the 36mm case
|}

==Where it sits in the line==

The 4-digit no-date Oyster Perpetuals are a single watch offered with a choice of bezel. The 1002 takes a smooth polished surround. The 1003, 1006, 1007 and 1008 all take engine-turned bezels in varying patterns. The 1005 takes the fluted bezel, which in this family is always cast in gold, white gold on the steel watches and yellow on the gold ones. Everything behind the bezel is shared: 34mm case, screw-down back and crown, 19mm lugs, acrylic crystal, chronometer-rated no-date automatic.

Because four reference numbers share the engine-turned description, the published literature does not draw a clean line between them, and neither do the auction houses. What the documented 1007 examples show consistently is a wide, flat bezel with the milling running edge to edge rather than a narrow band of fine reeding. Beyond that, distinguishing a 1007 from a 1003 or an 1008 comes down to the number engraved between the lugs and stamped inside the caseback, not to a feature anyone can call from a photograph.

The 1007 sits below the [[Reference:1018|1018]] in the same line by two millimetres of case and one millimetre of lug width. Where the 1018 is the outlier that reaches Explorer proportions, the 1007 is the mainstream 34mm Oyster Perpetual with the more interesting bezel, and it sold in quantity for two decades on that basis.

==Production outline==

Rolex published no production figure for the 1007 and no dated catalogue page has surfaced that fixes its introduction. Caliber 1560 entered production in 1959 and is the earliest movement documented in the reference, which puts the start of the run at 1959 or very shortly after. Case numbers running into the 3.2 million band by 1971 and a solid-gold example catalogued as 1980s put the end of it in the early 1980s.

Dated examples fill in most of the intervening years. Case number 487969 carries caliber 1560 and belongs to the earliest group. Antiquorum catalogued case number 529090 as made in 1959, case number 1228334 as made in 1964, case number 1691063 as made in 1965 and case number 830809 as made in 1967. A caseback stamped 1007 and date-coded I.66 sits on a watch with a 1.3 million serial. Christie's dated case number 1'485'056 to around 1966 and Sotheby's dated case number 1'693'858 to around 1967 and case number 2985098 to around 1971. A hallmarked 18k example carries serial 3271XXX and a 1971 date, with a punched guarantee and a 1978 calendar card in the box. Bonhams catalogued case number 2297890 as 1970s and case number 355**** as around 1972.

One caution about dating from catalogue text. Antiquorum described a watch with case number 537632 as made in 1977, a serial that belongs to 1959 by every published chart; and Bonhams dated the Serpico y Laino gold example to circa 1950, which cannot be right because caliber 1560 did not exist until 1959. Where a house date and a case number disagree on a 1007, the case number is the better guide.

==Movement notes==

[[File:Ref 1007 movement.webp|thumb|right|250px|Caliber 1570 in a 1007, stamped TWENTY SIX 26 JEWELS, with the Microstella balance at left]]
Caliber 1560 powers the reference from the start of the run to about 1965. It is a rhodium-plated automatic of 25 or 26 jewels beating at 18,000 vph, adjusted to temperature and five positions, with a free-sprung balance carrying Microstella regulating screws, a self-compensating Breguet balance spring and a shock absorber. Early examples are the ones with the butterfly rotor. Chronometer certification is the reason the dial carries the Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified line.

Caliber 1570 takes over from 1965 and runs to 1974. The frequency rises to 19,800 vph and the power reserve extends to around 48 hours; the architecture is otherwise the same 26-jewel movement. Hacking seconds came to the 1500 family in 1972, which divides late 1007s from everything earlier. Both calibers are shared with the [[Reference:1018|1018]] and the Explorer [[Reference:1016|1016]], and the [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]] carries the full lineage.

==Dial map==

[[File:Ref 1007 dial.webp|thumb|right|250px|The Sotheby's 'Snoopy' example: the printed character sits left of centre, above the chronometer text]]
No other reference in this group has as much documented dial variety, and it splits along four lines: finish, colour, marker style, and retailer signature.

The default is a silvered dial, and there are at least three distinct silvered finishes on record. Sunburst is the most common, with an applied coronet and bevelled polished baton markers. A textured or linen silvered finish appears on later examples. A matte silvered version turns up on the earliest gold watches with applied gold dart and tapered bar markers. Champagne appears on gold cases, sometimes as a graduated gradient with tritium-marked hour plots. White dials appear on 1970s steel examples, and a beige or cream tone shows up on 14k gold ones, though on watches of this age the line between an original cream dial and an aged silver one is not always drawable.

Two colour branches are worth separating out. A sunburst blue dial with applied polished baton markers, white outer minute divisions and luminous five-minute dots is documented on steel examples around 1972, and is the standard blue configuration. Separately, a blue dial with a horizontal brushed finish rather than a sunburst has surfaced on a 1967 steel example, described by the specialist who handled it as one they had never seen a second time. One example is a lead, not a variant; the horizontal-brushed blue should be treated as unmapped until another surfaces. Black dials with applied gilt faceted baton markers and gilt lance hands are documented on gold cases and carry the retailer signatures discussed below.

The one thing that should be assumed rather than hoped for is refinishing. Custom-coloured 1007 dials circulate openly, and Antiquorum has catalogued at least one example explicitly as a custom dial, selling it at the bottom of its estimate. Turquoise, orange and other non-factory colours offered on this reference are refinished dials, not discoveries. Printed character dials belong in the same category; the Sotheby's 'Snoopy' covered below is the best known of them.

==Case, bezel, crystal, and crown==

[[File:Ref 1007 bezel detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|The engine-turned bezel seen edge-on, with the Twinlock screw-down crown]]
[[File:Ref 1007 reference engraving.webp|thumb|right|220px|Reference 1007 and REGISTERED DESIGN engraved between the lugs]]
The case is a three-body Oyster in a tonneau profile, polished and brushed, with a screw-down caseback and screw-down crown, 34mm across the bezel and around 12mm thick. The lugs are drilled and take a 19mm bracelet. The crystal is acrylic throughout the run; there is no sapphire 1007.

The bezel is the reference's whole identity and the thing the catalogues handle worst. Rolex's own term is engine-turned. Heritage has called it reeded, Christie's ribbed, Sotheby's milled, and Bonhams once catalogued it as a Turnograph bezel, which it is not, since the Turnograph is a rotating timing bezel and this one is fixed. On the watch itself the pattern is a wide flat band of alternating cut and polished segments running the full width of the surround, aligned so the cuts read as fine radial texture in the light. On gold cases the bezel is gold and the milling reads softer.

Case material is where the 1007 spreads furthest. Stainless steel is the volume production. Solid 14k yellow gold is documented from the earliest part of the run and is described by dealers as the more common of the two gold options; solid 18k yellow gold is documented from 1960 through 1971 and into an 1980s example that came with its original box and papers. A hallmarked 18k case runs around 53 grams. Bonhams also catalogued a steel-and-yellow-gold example under the paired designation 1007/1005, which is a reminder that in this family the case is common property and the bezel is what the reference number encodes.

==Bracelets, end links, and clasps==

[[File:Ref 1007 caseback.webp|thumb|right|250px|Screw-down caseback on a 7205 rivet Oyster; the end links are stamped 60]]
Original steel delivery through the 1960s was on the 7205 rivet Oyster, 19mm, with a signed folding clasp. End-link stamps vary within the fitment: 57 is the number usually quoted for the 19mm 7205, and the 1967 example Sotheby's catalogued wears 60. A 1966 example survives with a caseback date-coded I.66 and a clasp stamped 2-66, head and bracelet from consecutive quarters. From the late 1960s the folded-link 78350 with 557 end links takes over, and clasp codes running into the 1970s and 1980s are period-correct on later heads. Jubilee bracelets appear on some examples. Gold watches came on gold fold-over bracelets or on leather with a signed gold buckle, and the 19mm strap width carries across.

A clasp code dates the bracelet and only the bracelet. Sixty years of servicing has separated most 1007 heads from what they left the factory on, and a later clasp stamp on an earlier case is normal wear history rather than evidence of a problem. The cross-family detail sits on [[Reference:Bracelets|the bracelet and clasp guide]].

==Special branches==

===Tiffany & Co.===

A 14k yellow-gold 1007 with a Tiffany & Co. signature below the Rolex coronet is the best-documented retailer branch on the reference. The watch is case number 529090, made in 1959, with a silver dial carrying applied gold dart and tapered bar markers, caliber 1560 with 25 jewels, on a 14k gold fold-over bracelet, and triple-signed on case, dial and movement. It sold at Heritage in New York in May 2013 and again at Antiquorum in Geneva two years later, which makes it one of the few 1007s with a traceable modern ownership chain.

===Serpico y Laino===

The Caracas retailer Serpico y Laino signed Rolex dials in volume through the 1950s and 1960s, and an 18k gold 1007 carries the signature below 12 on a black dial with applied gilt faceted baton markers, gilt outer minute divisions with luminous five-minute dots, and gilt lance hands. The watch is case number 487969, weighs just under 53 grams and runs caliber 1560. Bonhams offered it in Paris in October 2024 and it went unsold against a high estimate. A Serpico y Laino [[Reference:1018|1018]] has also surfaced, so the signature spans the family rather than singling out the 1007.

===The Sotheby's 'Snoopy'===

[[File:Ref 1007 detail.webp|thumb|right|250px|The 'Snoopy' 1007, case 1'693'858, circa 1967]]
Sotheby's catalogued a steel 1007 in New York in October 2020 under the lot title Oyster Perpetual 'Snoopy', and the name is literal. The silvered dial carries a printed Snoopy with Woodstock perched against him, sitting between the coronet and the Superlative Chronometer text. Case number 1'693'858, circa 1967, caliber 1570, on a 7205 rivet Oyster with 60 end links. It made USD 6,300 against a USD 4,000–6,000 estimate, the strongest 1007 result located.

The catalogue photographs the character plainly but describes the dial only as silvered and says nothing about who printed it. Rolex has never held a Peanuts licence and no factory character dial is documented on this reference, which puts the Snoopy alongside the custom colours: decoration applied outside Geneva to an otherwise honest watch. It cleared its high estimate anyway.

==Auction record==

The 1007 trades in the low thousands as a rule, frequently without reserve, and often in general watch sales rather than dedicated vintage Rolex auctions. Gold cases and retailer signatures carry the top of the range, and the two highest results on record are a nicknamed steel example and a Tiffany-signed gold one. The two most expensive lots offered in recent years, both gold and both estimated in five figures, failed to sell, which suggests the ceiling for the reference sits below where consignors have been placing it.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! date
! house
! configuration
! result
|-
| Oct 2020
| Sotheby's New York, lot 96
| steel 'Snoopy', silvered dial, cal 1570, case 1'693'858, c.1967
| USD 6,300 (est. USD 4,000–6,000)
|-
| May 2015
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 110
| 14k gold, Tiffany & Co. signed, case 529090, made 1959
| CHF 4,750 (est. CHF 3,000–5,000)
|-
| May 2013
| Heritage New York, lot 081
| the same Tiffany-signed 14k gold example, case 529090
| USD 4,062
|-
| Nov 2014
| Christie's Hong Kong, Important Watches, lot 2430
| 14k gold, gilt brushed dial, cal 1570, case 1'485'056, c.1966
| HKD 27,500 (est. HKD 32,000–48,000)
|-
| Nov 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Watches Online, lot 83
| steel, white dial, case 2297890, Oyster bracelet, 1970s
| USD 1,920 (no reserve)
|-
| Mar 2018
| Sotheby's, Fine Timepieces Online, lot 111
| steel, silvered textured dial, cal 1570, case 2985098, c.1971
| CHF 1,600 (est. CHF 1,500–3,000)
|-
| Nov 2016
| Antiquorum Geneva, lot 39
| steel, custom dial, case 1228334, made 1964, rivet bracelet
| CHF 1,063 (est. CHF 1,000–2,000)
|-
| May 2013
| Bonhams Knightsbridge, lot 222
| steel, sunburst blue dial, cal 1570, 78350 bracelet, c.1972
| GBP 937
|-
| Oct 2024
| Bonhams Paris, lot 3014
| 18k gold, Serpico y Laino signed black dial, case 487969
| not sold (est. EUR 6,000–8,000)
|-
| Sep 2024
| Bonhams, Weekly Watches Online, lot 2012
| steel and yellow gold, catalogued 1007/1005, silvered dial, c.1966
| not sold (est. USD 2,200–3,200)
|}

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:1018|Oyster Perpetual 1018]] — the 36mm case in the same line
* [[Reference:1016|Explorer 1016]] — same calibers, 36mm Explorer dial
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — the 34mm non-chronometer running mate

See also the [[Reference:oyster-perpetual|Oyster Perpetual family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==

* [https://www.watch-wiki.net/doku.php?id=rolex_calibres Watch Wiki, "Rolex calibres — reference index", Watch Wiki (watch-wiki.net)]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/the-review-of-the-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1005/ BeckerTime, "Review: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1005", BeckerTime, 2022-09-11]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/watches-5/rolex-reference-1007-oyster-perpetual-snoopy-a Sotheby's, "Sotheby's New York Watches Lot 96 — Rolex reference 1007 Oyster Perpetual 'Snoopy' c.1967", Sotheby's, 2020-10-29]
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Lot 110 — Rolex ref 1007 retailed by Tiffany, 14K yellow gold, 1959", Antiquorum, 2015-05-10
* Heritage Auctions, "Heritage New York Watches & Fine Timepieces Lot 081 — Rolex ref 1007 gold Oyster Perpetual for Tiffany & Co.", Heritage Auctions, 2013-05-21
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Paris Fine Watches and Chronographs Lot 3014 — Rolex ref 1007 18K gold retailed by Serpico y Laino", Bonhams, 2024-10-22
* Bonhams, "Bonhams Knightsbridge Watches & Wristwatches Lot 222 — Rolex ref 1007 blue sunburst dial c.1972", Bonhams, 2013-05-21
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Lot 39 — Rolex ref 1007 custom dial, steel, 1964", Antiquorum, 2016-11-13
* Sotheby's, "Sotheby's Fine Timepieces Online Lot 111 — Rolex ref 1007 steel, case 2985098, c.1971", Sotheby's, 2018-03-02
* Christie's, "Christie's Hong Kong Important Watches Lot 2430 — Rolex ref 1007 14K gold, case 1'485'056, c.1966", Christie's, 2014-11-26
* Antiquorum, "Antiquorum Geneva Lot 293 — Rolex ref 1007 18K yellow gold, case 1691063, made 1965", Antiquorum, 2008-03-16
* [https://shop.watchsteez.com/products/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1007-circa-1966-engine-turned-bezel Watchsteez, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1007 circa 1966 (engine-turned bezel)", Watchsteez]
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-oyster-perpetual-1007-blue-horizontal-brush-dial-w2788 Bulang & Sons, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual blue horizontal-brushed dial ref 1007", Bulang & Sons]
* [https://mokumwatches.com/product/rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1007-1960/ Mokum Watches, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1007 — 1960, 18K yellow gold", Mokum Watches]
* [https://www.hashtagwatchco.com/products/vintage-rolex-oyster-perpetual-1007-18k-yellow-gold-caliber-1570-automatic-wristwatch-box-papers-circa-1971 Hashtag Watch Co., "1971 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 1007 18K yellow gold caliber 1570 with box and papers", Hashtag Watch Co.]
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/1966-rolex-oyster-perpetual-ref-1007-silver-dial Craft + Tailored, "1966 Rolex Oyster-Perpetual Ref. 1007 silver dial", Craft + Tailored]
* [https://www.collectorsquare.com/en/watches/rolex/oyster-perpetual/ref-rolex-1007/lpi Collector Square, "Rolex Oyster Perpetual ref. 1007 — auction and second-hand price index", Collector Square]

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:References]]

Reference:Movements

2026-08-11T16:52:55Z

Admin: Add documented Cal 1530-in-1002/1003 outlier note per OP research side-finding

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Caliber & Movement Reference}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Movements & Calibers — Cross-Family Reference | BezelBase
|description=Cross-family caliber catalogue for vintage and discontinued Rolex. Every movement that powered a pre-2020 Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer, or Oyster Perpetual reference, with spec, lineage, and reference fitments.
|keywords=Rolex caliber, Rolex movement, cal 4030, cal 4130, cal 727, Valjoux 72, Zenith El Primero, cal 1570, cal 1575, cal 3035, cal 3135, cal 3185, cal 3186, Oysterquartz 5035, Rolex chronograph caliber, vintage Rolex movement
|type=Article
}}

[[Main Page]] -> '''Movements'''

== Quick jump ==

{| style="width:100%; border-collapse:separate; border-spacing:0; padding:8px 12px; margin:0.5em 0 1.5em 0; background:#f8f8f6; border-left:3px solid #555;"
|-
| style="padding:4px 0; vertical-align:top;" | ''Pre-Oyster era:'' [[#cal-a260|A260]] · [[#cal-a296|A296]] · [[#cal-1030|1030]] · [[#cal-1036|1036]]
|-
| style="padding:4px 0; vertical-align:top;" | ''1500 family:'' [[#cal-1520|1520]] · [[#cal-1530|1530]] · [[#cal-1560|1560]] · [[#cal-1570|1570]] · [[#cal-1575|1575]]
|-
| style="padding:4px 0; vertical-align:top;" | ''Modern Sub / GMT:'' [[#cal-3035|3035]] · [[#cal-3135|3135]] · [[#cal-3185|3185]] · [[#cal-3186|3186]]
|-
| style="padding:4px 0; vertical-align:top;" | ''Daytona chronograph:'' [[#cal-72|72]] · [[#cal-72b|72B]] · [[#cal-722|722]] · [[#cal-727|727]] · [[#cal-4030|4030]] · [[#cal-4130|4130]]
|-
| style="padding:4px 0; vertical-align:top;" | ''Prince shaped:'' [[#cal-300|300]] · [[#cal-350|350]] · [[#cal-300-ts|7¾ T.S. 300]]
|}

== Rolex movements ==
The table below catalogues every Rolex caliber that powered a reference documented here, with spec, production span, and fitments. The lineage sections at the bottom of the page group those calibers by family arc.

The caliber number is engraved on the movement itself and read with the caseback off; it is separate from the case serial, which is the number that dates the watch on the [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial-number page]]. Where a movement number and case number diverge sharply, as on the stockpiled Prince calibers, the movement was made well before the case it sits in.

== Caliber index ==

{| class="wikitable sortable" style="width:100%;"
|-
! Caliber !! Type !! Years !! Specs !! Features !! Families !! Notes
|-
| '''300''' || shaped manual-wind || 1928–1937 || 15 (Prima) / 18 (Extra Prima / Ultra Prima)j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer (extra prima / ultra prima only) || Prince || 7½ × 14½ lignes; rectangular plates; Cal. 877 (Gruen Techni-Quadron) is the architectural sibling, sold under the Gruen brand in the US market — not a Rolex caliber; cal. 300 winding-stem bridge is a known service fail point. Cal. 414, 527, 579 T, 701, 841 T, 1004, and 1759 are commercial designations documented on 1862 Prince cases that share the Cal. 300 architecture under different finishing/grading; each has its own row below (see [[#cal-414|414]], [[#cal-527|527]], [[#cal-579|579 T]], [[#cal-701|701]], [[#cal-841|841 T]], [[#cal-1004|1004]], [[#cal-1759|1759]])
|-
| '''350''' || shaped manual-wind || c.1928–1935 || 15 (some examples 18)j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer (extra prima) || Prince || Documented on Phillips lots CH080319/17 (Beyer 1490) and NY080223/92 (18K 1490 c.1933); appears alongside Cal. 300 in 1490 and 971 cases without obvious dating segregation
|-
| '''7½′′′ T.S. 300''' || shaped manual-wind || 1932–1938 || 18j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer (ultra prima, 6-position) || Prince || Très Soigné — the Ultra Prima movement variant; lateral lever escapement; monometallic balance with micrometer regulator; Breguet overcoil hairspring; rhodium-plated; documented on Antiquorum May 2006 Mondani lot 46 (1490 case 17,365, dated 1935) and on the [[Reference:1527|1527 Railway]] (Antiquorum Vicenza 1992 lot 146 white+pink, Geneva 2005 lot 100 white+yellow, Mondani 2006 lot 108/33 white+yellow with bamboo bracelet 1931, hammer CHF 27,140, the highest recorded). On 1527 examples the grade ratio reverses the 1490 pattern — Extra Prima dominates, Ultra Prima 8-position 'Officially Tested in Eight Ways' is the apex outlier
|-
| '''310''' || shaped manual-wind || Aegler shaped (Cal. 300 family — distinct caliber number) 1932–1938 (then stockpiled and cased into 1950s Princes) || 18j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer || Prince || 7½′′′ rectangular, lateral lever escapement, Superbalance adjusted to 6 positions, Breguet hairspring, swan-neck micro-regulator. Documented exclusively on the [[Reference:3361|3361 Aerodynamic]] / 3362 / [[Reference:3937|3937]] wedge-shaped Prince family — every documented 3361 catalog entry names Cal. 310 specifically (Antiquorum Mondani 2006 lot 209/210, NY 2015 sale 296 lot 73 mvt T94122, PatekMonger Cuervo y Sobrinos). Available in both sub-seconds and centre-seconds variants; the 3361/3362/3937 receive the centre-seconds variant. Cal. 310 production ended 1938 but Aegler stockpiled movements that Rolex cased into 3361 production through 1952 — the case-and-movement number divergence reflects this stockpile pattern (e.g. Mondani 1952 case 899,677 carries a movement number significantly lower than the case). Auction-house catalogs commonly list Cal. 310 as 'Cal. 300 family', which is an under-specification rather than a sub-caliber distinction
|-
| '''360 HW''' || shaped manual-wind || 1936–late 1930s || 15–18j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer (extra prima) || Prince || Successor caliber for late-period 971 / 1490 / 1862 / 3361; visually identifiable by tonneau-shaped movement plates rather than the rectangular plates of Cal. 300/350 — the plate-shape distinction is the cleanest authentication tell for late-era Prince movement attribution (NAWCC Doug Sinclair / gmorse / Cary Hurt 2013)
|-
| '''414''' || shaped manual-wind || c.early-1930s || 15–17j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer || Prince || Documented on 1862 cases. Same Cal. 300 architecture under a different commercial number.
|-
| '''527''' || shaped manual-wind || c.1934 || 15–17j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer || Prince || Documented on Christie's online Watches Online Time Autumn lot 31 (Prince 1862, 9K Glasgow 1934) — the canonical Cal. 527 example with "Modèle déposé" enamel-marked dial.
|-
| '''579 T''' || shaped manual-wind || c.1935 || 15–17j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer || Prince || Documented on a collector-market 1862 lot. T suffix likely denotes a specific finishing or adjustment grade within the Cal. 300 family.
|-
| '''701''' || shaped manual-wind || c.mid-1930s || 15–17j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer || Prince || Documented on 1862 cases.
|-
| '''841 T''' || shaped manual-wind || c.1930 || 17j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer || Prince || Documented on Bonhams 2022 1862 case. T suffix denotes a specific Aegler grading tier.
|-
| '''1004''' || shaped manual-wind || c.1936 || 17j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer (8-position adjustment) || Prince || Documented on Christie's London 2015 9K Glasgow 1936 Prince 1862, "officially tested in 8 positions" — eight-position adjustment is unusual (Swiss and Kew chronometer protocols typically tested 5–6 positions); may indicate Aegler-internal regulation tier rather than Bureaux-Officiels-Suisse-de-Contrôle certification
|-
| '''1759''' || shaped manual-wind || c.1937 || 18j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer (ultra prima chronometer, 6-position) || Prince || Ultra Prima Chronometer execution; 18-jewel, 6-position. Documented on a 9K Prince 1862, Glasgow 1937. Same architectural specification as Cal. 300 Ultra Prima — caliber-number drift across auction houses (Cal. 300 Ultra Prima vs Cal. 1759 Ultra Prima Chronometer for similar architectural specs) is documented but not fully resolved
|-
| '''971A''' || shaped manual-wind || c.1938–1952 || 18j · 18,000 vph · ~50h || chronometer || Prince || Aegler shaped late commercial designation in the [[#cal-300|Cal. 300]] family. Documented on the [[Reference:3937|3937 Rams Horn]] (Fabsuisse 14K rose gold 1946-47 example). Lateral lever escapement, Superbalance, Breguet hairspring, 6–7 position adjustment. The "971A" letter suffix follows the Aegler convention of using letters for finishing tiers — distinct from the Cal. 300 family-level designation that some auction catalogs use to under-specify late-period Prince movements. Dealer listings occasionally attribute Cal. 1530 to the 3937. That is a misattribution: Cal. 1530 is a 1965-era Oyster Perpetual caliber that did not exist when the 3937 was produced
|-
| '''72''' || chronograph || 1960–65 || 17j · 18,000 vph · 48h || — || Daytona || Bare Valjoux 72 in 6234 / early 6238
|-
| '''72A''' || chronograph || early-to-mid 1960s || 17j · 18,000 vph · 48h || — || Daytona || Rolex-finished intermediate; thin documentation
|-
| '''72B''' || chronograph || 1962–65 || 17j · 18,000 vph · 48h || — || Daytona || Final pre-722 Valjoux 72 in early 6238
|-
| '''722''' || chronograph || 1963–69 || 17j · 18,000 vph · 48h || — || Daytona || First Rolex-stamped Valjoux 72; 6239 / 6241
|-
| '''722-1''' || chronograph || 1969–70 || 17j · 18,000 vph · 48h || — || Daytona || Transitional 722 revision into the 727 era
|-
| '''727''' || chronograph || 1970–88 || 17j · 21,600 vph · 48h || — || Daytona || Higher-beat Valjoux 72; 6262 / 6263 / 6264 / 6265
|-
| '''4030''' || chronograph || 1988–2000 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 54h || chronometer || Daytona || Modified El Primero in the Zenith Daytona; modification list disputed
|-
| '''4130''' || chronograph || 2000–present || 44j · 28,800 vph · 72h || chronometer || Daytona || First in-house Rolex chronograph; vertical clutch
|-
| '''10½ Hunter''' || manual || 1945–53 || 15j (early) → 17j (later) · 18,000 vph || — || Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || Aegler-supplied 10½-ligne hand-wound family (700 / 710 / 720 base architecture). Powers the originating Air-King 4925 and the sister Air-Lion / Air-Tiger / Air-Giant references (4365 sub-seconds / 4444 mid-size / 4647 Hunter Precision). Non-chronometer, central seconds. The bridge between the pre-war Bubbleback shaped calibers and the post-war 1030 automatic.
|-
| '''A260''' || automatic || 1953–55 || 19j · 18,000 vph · 36h || — || Submariner, Oyster Perpetual || First-generation Sub 6204 / 6205. 26.4mm, with a "non-butterfly" rotor (distinct from the butterfly-rotor 1030). Hodinkee reads A260 as "repurposed from earlier Oyster Perpetual models including later bubblebacks."
|-
| '''A296''' || automatic || 1952–55 || 18j · 18,000 vph · 36h || — || Submariner, Explorer, Oyster Perpetual || Big Crown 6200; Explorer 6098 / 6150 ("Precision") / 6350 (chronometer). 29.5mm. Full-rotor uni-directional Perpetual; A296 is sometimes described as a bumper caliber, a confusion with bubble-back geometry. The 1030 that succeeds A296 introduces bidirectional winding via the butterfly rotor and a thinner autowind module — the thickness change is what eliminates the bubble-back caseback profile (Phillips Geneva Watch Auction FOUR lot 146 frames the A296→1030 swap explicitly as a thickness change; Charlie Dunne, ''How Rolex Became Rolex: The Automatic Perpetual Movement Part 2'', Wind Vintage, 2023).
|-
| '''1030''' || automatic || 1950–62 || 25j · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer || Submariner, Explorer, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || Rolex's first bidirectional automatic; butterfly rotor stamped ROLEX PERPETUAL PATENTED. 28.5 × 5.85mm. First appears on 6098 in 1952; runs across 6536 / 6536-1 / 6538 Submariners and 6610 Explorer. COSC and non-COSC versions on the same caliber. First Air-King appearance on 6552 (1953–57)
|-
| '''1036''' || automatic || 1954–59 || 25j · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer || GMT-Master || First GMT caliber; bakelite-bezel 6542
|-
| '''1065''' || automatic || 1956–59 || 25j · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer || GMT-Master || Late-6542 GMT caliber
|-
| '''1530''' || automatic || 1957–65 || 25j (early) → 26j (late) · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer (post-1958 only) || Submariner, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || First Submariner appearance on 5510 (1958–59); not chronometer-rated at 5510 launch — chronometer arrived with caliber 1560 on 5512. Jewel-count progression 17 → 25 → 26 across the 5508 run. Foundation of the 15xx family; early 5512 / 5513. Powers the 36mm Explorer-case 5504 Air-King 1957/58-1963/64 in parallel with the early 5500 production. Bonhams has also catalogued Cal. 1530 in a 1002 and a 1003, against the Watch-Wiki concordance, which assigns Cal. 1530 to the 5500 family only — a documented outlier rather than a confirmed cross-reference pattern.
|-
| '''1520''' || automatic || 1963–90 || 17 / 25 / 26j · 19,800 vph · 42h || — || Submariner, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || Non-chronometer twin; powers late 5513 / 5514 / 5517 Submariners and the long-running 5500 Air-King (1963 onward) / 1002 OP / 5501 / 5520. 17-jewel variant is a US/Canada import-duty-bracket move, not a movement difference
|-
| '''1525''' || automatic || 1959–c.1975 || 17 / 25j · 19,800 vph · 42h || — || Air-King || Date-module variant of Cal 1520 powering early 5700 / 5701 Air-King-Date. Non-chronometer (Precision tier); the chronometer-rated date sibling in this generation is the 1500-series Oyster Perpetual Date (1500 / 1501 / 1503 / 1505)
|-
| '''1535''' || automatic || c.1975–1988 || 26j · 19,800 vph · 42h || — || Air-King || Later running update to Cal 1525, same architecture with date module. Powers later 5700 / 5701 Air-King-Date production. Non-chronometer; the chronometer-rated 1500-series uses a related 1500-family date caliber
|-
| '''1560''' || automatic || 1959–65 || 26j · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || Cross-family chronometer; mid 5512 / 1675 / 1016
|-
| '''1565''' || automatic || 1959–65 || 25j · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer || GMT-Master || Early 1675; "caller" GMT
|-
| '''1570''' || automatic || 1965–80 || 26j · 19,800 vph · 44h || chronometer || Submariner, Explorer || Higher-beat 1560; hack added mid-life
|-
| '''1575''' || automatic || 1965–80 || 25j · 19,800 vph · 50h || chronometer || Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer || 1680 / late 1675 / Explorer II 1655
|-
| '''3000''' || automatic || 1989–99 || 27j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · chronometer || Submariner, Explorer, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || First 28,800 vph time-only; 14060 / 14270 / 14000 (first sapphire-crystal Air-King)
|-
| '''3035''' || automatic || 1977–88 || 27j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · quickset · chronometer || Submariner || First quickset Sub; 16800 / 168000 / 16808 / 16803
|-
| '''3075''' || automatic || 1979–88 || 27j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · quickset · chronometer || GMT-Master || 16750 / 16753 / 16758
|-
| '''3085''' || automatic || 1983–89 || 27j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · chronometer || GMT-Master, Explorer || First Rolex caliber to dissociate local hour from 24-hour hand; local hour sets in one-hour clicks, 24-hour hand follows the bezel for the third zone. Trade-off: no quick-set date (advances via local hour hand). 28.5 × 6.3mm — the 6.3mm thickness drove the 16760 "Fat Lady" / "Sophia Loren" case proportions. Used exclusively in 16760 GMT-Master II and 16550 Explorer II
|-
| '''3130''' || automatic || 1999–2018 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · chronometer || Submariner, Explorer, Air-King, Oyster Perpetual || Time-only successor to 3000; 14060M / 114060 / 114270 / 14000M / 114200
|-
| '''3132''' || automatic || 2010–~2020 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · chronometer || Explorer, Oyster Perpetual || 3130 with Parachrom + Paraflex; 214270
|-
| '''3135''' || automatic || 1988–2018 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · quickset · chronometer || Submariner || 30-year workhorse; 16610 / 16613 / 16618 / 116610-series
|-
| '''3175''' || automatic || 1988–99 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · quickset · chronometer || GMT-Master || 16700 — last "caller" GMT and last fixed-GMT caliber. One-reference-only; 24-hour hand stays linked to local hour, second zone read off bezel. Adjusted to 5 positions and temperature, Glucydur balance with Microstella, Breguet hairspring, Kif shock
|-
| '''3185''' || automatic || 1989–~2007 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · quickset · chronometer || GMT-Master, Explorer || 16710 / 16713 / 16718 / 16570
|-
| '''3186''' || automatic || 2007–19 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 50h || hack · quickset · chronometer || GMT-Master, Explorer || Parachrom hairspring; 116710LN / BLNR / 116719BLRO / late 16710
|-
| '''1055''' || automatic || 1956–1959 || 25j · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer (gen-2 1055B) || Day-Date || First Rolex day-and-date caliber. Gen-1 (6510 / 6511) pre-COSC; gen-2 "1055B" (6611 / 6612 / 6613) added free-sprung Microstella + Breguet overcoil + COSC. No quickset, no hacking.
|-
| '''1555''' || automatic || 1959–c.1965 || 25j · 18,000 vph · 42h || chronometer · non-quickset · non-hack || Day-Date || Cal 1055-derived. Free-sprung Microstella, Breguet overcoil. Early 4-digit Day-Date: 1803 / 1804 / 1806 / 1807 / 1811.
|-
| '''1556''' || automatic || c.1965–1977/78 || 26j · 19,800 vph · 42h || hack (from 1972) · non-quickset · chronometer || Day-Date || Higher frequency than 1555; hacking added 1972 mid-production (pre-1972 examples do not hack). Mid-and-late 4-digit Day-Date: 1803 / 1804 / 1806 / 1807 / 1811.
|-
| '''3055''' || automatic || 1977–1988 || 27j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · single quickset (date) · chronometer || Day-Date || First Day-Date with quickset (date only; day still advanced by running the hands). Sapphire-crystal era. 18038 / 18048 / 18078 / early 18238.
|-
| '''3155''' || automatic || 1988–2019 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · double quickset (day + date) · chronometer || Day-Date || Double quickset from 1988; long-serving modern Day-Date movement. Late 18238 / 18248 and the 6-digit 118238 family.
|-
| '''3156''' || automatic || 2008–2015 || 31j · 28,800 vph · 48h || hack · double quickset · chronometer || Day-Date || Day-Date II 41mm derivative of the 3155 with Parachrom hairspring + Paraflex shock. 218238 / 218239 / 218206 / 218235.
|-
| '''5035''' || quartz || 1977–2001 || 11j · 32 kHz vph || hack · quickset · chronometer || Oyster Perpetual || Oysterquartz 17000 / 17013 / 17014
|-
| '''5055''' || quartz || 1977–2001 || 11j · 32 kHz vph || hack · quickset · chronometer || Day-Date || Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018 (yellow gold) / 19019 (white gold); 19028 pyramid bezel
|}

== Manual-wind chronograph lineage ==

The manual-wind Daytona stayed on Valjoux 72 architecture for its full first chapter. Cal 72 belongs to the 6234 and earliest 6238. Cal 722 is the first Rolex-stamped version and powers the original 6239 alongside the 6240 and 6241 generation. Cal 722-1 bridges into the higher-beat cal 727, which lifts the rate from 18,000 to 21,600 vph and then runs through the 6262, 6264, 6263, and 6265 until the manual-wind era closes in 1988.

== Automatic chronograph lineage ==

Cal 4030 is the most disputed Daytona movement spec, but the working outline is clear. Rolex took the Zenith El Primero base, reworked it heavily, and launched it in 1988 with the 16520 for a twelve-year run. Serious sources agree on 28,800 vph, a free-sprung Breguet balance, no date, and major Rolex revision. They diverge on the length of the modification list and on power reserve, usually quoted as 52 or 54 hours. It was the last foreign-sourced caliber in Rolex's modern line.

Cal 4130 launched in 2000 with the 116520 as Rolex's first fully in-house chronograph movement. The architecture is column wheel with a vertical clutch, the reserve runs 72 hours, and the part count drops below the cal 4030 it replaced. It powered the whole pre-ceramic in-house Daytona generation and carried forward into the 116500LN.

== Sport time-only lineage (Submariner, GMT-Master, Explorer) ==

The sport time-only line opens with the A-series uni-directional Perpetuals — full-rotor automatics, not bumpers (Rolex never produced a bumper caliber). Cal A260 powers the first 6204 and 6205. Cal A296 carries the 6200 and the earliest Explorers, with the 6150 / 6350 split showing the same movement in non-COSC and COSC form. Cal 1030 takes over from 1955 with the bidirectional butterfly rotor and a thinner autowind module, and underpins the mid-1950s Submariner and Explorer generation.

The 15xx family is Rolex's long middle chapter. Cal 1530 anchors early 5508, 5510, 5512, and 5513 production. Cal 1520 is the non-chronometer twin used in late 5513, 5514, and 5517. Cal 1560 and 1570 carry the chronometer side of the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Explorer lines. Cal 1575 adds the date or GMT module, which is how it lands in the 1680, late 1675, and the 1655 Explorer II.

The GMT branch reads in three steps. Cal 1036 and 1065 belong to the bakelite 6542 era and keep the 24-hour hand linked to the main hour hand. Cal 1565, 1575, and 3075 carry that synchronized layout through the 1675 and 16750 generation. Cal 3085 breaks the pattern with the first independently jumping local hour hand, used in the 16760 and 16550. Cal 3185 then defines the long 16710 run, and cal 3186 adds the Parachrom hairspring for late 16710 production and the ceramic-era GMT line. The 16700 keeps the old synchronized caller layout alive on cal 3175 until 1999.

The modern time-only line settles on the 31xx family. Cal 3000 is the first 28,800 vph no-date movement of the era, used in the 14060 and 14270. Cal 3130 succeeds it in the 14060M, 114060, 114270, and later Oyster Perpetual watches. Cal 3132 adds the Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock system for the 214270. Cal 3135 is the date counterpart and the dominant modern Rolex workhorse across the Submariner Date and the rest of the steel sports line.

== Oyster Perpetual lineage ==

The Oyster Perpetual line shares most of its movements with the sport watches. Bubbleback and early Oyster references use the 520, 620, 630, and A-series automatics, documented on the Bubbleback family page. Mid-century OP shares the A296 and 1030 with the early Submariner and Explorer. Later no-date OP references move through 1530, 1560, and 1570, then into cal. 3000, 3130, and 3132, in the same sequence seen on the no-date Submariner and Explorer.

The Oysterquartz sits outside the mechanical line. Cal 5035 and 5055 launched in 1977 as Rolex's in-house quartz calibers and ran through 2001. Total output stayed small, under about 25,000 watches across the 24-year run. Cal 5035 powers the Oysterquartz Datejust and Oyster Perpetual references; cal 5055 powers the Day-Date Oysterquartz.

== Day-Date lineage ==

The Day-Date runs on its own caliber family, separate from the sport and Oyster Perpetual movements. Cal 1055 (1956–1959) is Rolex's first day-and-date movement, carried by the originals-era 6510 / 6511 / 6611 / 6612 / 6613. The 4-digit era splits the run in two: cal 1555 (1959 to c. 1965) at 18,000 vph, then cal 1556 (c. 1965 to 1977-78) at 19,800 vph with hacking added across the family in 1972. Neither has quickset, so the 4-digit Day-Dates (1803, 1804, 1806, 1807, 1811) set the day and date only by running the hands through midnight.

Quickset arrives with the 5-digit era. Cal 3055 (1977–1988) adds a date quickset to the 18038 and its siblings; the day still advances by running the hands. Cal 3155 (1988 onward) adds the day quickset as well, the double-quickset the 18238 introduced and the 6-digit 118238 family carried forward unchanged. The 41mm Day-Date II runs cal 3156 (2008–2015), a 3155 derivative with a Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock. The quartz outlier, cal 5055, powers the Oysterquartz Day-Date 19018 and 19019.

== Prince lineage ==

The Prince family runs on Aegler shaped movements that predate every other Rolex movement on this page. The 1927 Wilsdorf-Aegler patent for a "shaped watch movement with a seconds dial" placed the winding barrel at one end of the rectangular movement and the balance at the other — the architectural choice that allowed both a larger balance wheel (for improved precision) and a larger mainspring barrel (for longer power reserve) than competing shaped calibers of the period. The Aegler-Rolex relationship was a supplier arrangement: Aegler manufactured in Bienne as an independent firm until Rolex purchased the company from the Borer family in April 2004 (Tim Mosso, Quill & Pad). "Aegler" and "Rebberg" refer to the same manufacturer — Aegler is the company name, Rebberg the Bienne street address.

Two distinct caliber generations span the Prince production window. Cal. 300 (rectangular plates, 1928–1935) is the original shaped movement: 15 jewels at the Prima base, 18 jewels at Extra Prima and Ultra Prima with 6-position adjustment, 18,000 vph, about 50 hours of power reserve. Cal. 7½′′′ T.S. 300 is the Ultra Prima execution of the same architecture (1932–1938) with lateral lever escapement and monometallic balance. Cal. 360 HW is the 1936-onward successor with tonneau-shaped plates rather than the rectangular plates of Cal. 300. The plate-shape distinction is the clearest visual authentication: a 971 or 1490 with rectangular movement plates is a 1928–1935 example; a watch in the same case reference with tonneau plates is a 1936-onward example.

Movement grading runs Prima → Extra Prima → Ultra Prima, corresponding to ascending jewel counts (15 → 18), adjustment positions, and chronometer testing rigour. The "Chronometer" or "Observatory" designation on a Prince dial corresponds to Extra Prima or Ultra Prima grade — a Prima movement does not earn the dial mark. The Kew-Teddington observatory testing tradition runs through this period: Rolex submitted Prince movements to the National Physical Laboratory at Kew for independent rate certificates against the Swiss Bureaux Officiels Suisse de Contrôle. The 1914 Class A Kew certificate that Rolex commonly cites as their first official chronometer rating was issued for an earlier ladies' wristwatch movement; the Prince calibers extend the observatory-testing lineage from 1928 forward, but the 1914 milestone predates the Prince family.

The [[Reference:1491|1491 Brancard Jumping Hour]] is the one Prince configuration that adds a complication module on top of the standard movement architecture. The Aegler-built jump-hour module mounts on the rear of a standard 7½′′′ Extra Prima Observatory base (Cal. 350 T.S. in Phillips's labeling), and the module added enough mechanical thickness that the 1491 case had to be deepened to accommodate it. There is no separate caliber number for the jump-hour module — the module is an addition to the standard Prince base, not a distinct movement. The case-depth difference (1491 case vs 1490 case) is the canonical authentication tell for distinguishing genuine 1491 examples from 1490 cases retrofitted with later modules. Three module-specific service patterns surface in the collector record: weak jump impulse spring producing "lazy" disc advance; worn disc retention pawl producing hour-disc jitter; misaligned dial aperture revealing fragments of two numerals at once.

On Cal. 300 the winding-stem bridge is a known fail point. A Prince that sets time then disengages immediately is symptomatic of a broken bridge. Aftermarket CNC-machined brass replacements circulate among watchmakers, and aftermarket "cal. Prince TS" winding stems are commercially available. The stem bridge is a maintenance item on these movements rather than a hidden fault.

Aegler supplied shaped movements to Gruen as well as Rolex; Rolex took the British Empire markets, Gruen took the United States market. The Gruen Cal. 877 used in the Gruen Techni-Quadron is the architectural sibling of the Rolex Cal. 300 — the same Aegler movement under a different brand. Some Prince literature lists "Cal. 877" as a Prince caliber; that is a misattribution traceable to the Gruen-Rolex sibling relationship. A Gruen-stamped movement under a Rolex Prince case is a known transplant pattern.

== Sources ==

* [https://revolutionwatch.com/a-movement-in-history-the-zenith-driven-rolex-daytona/ Revolution — A Movement in History: The Zenith-driven Rolex Daytona] (Ross Povey, 2018)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-part-1-3 Hodinkee — A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Part 1] (Paul Boutros, 2012)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-vintage-watch-nerds-critical-dissection-of-the-rolex-daytona-past-to-present-pt-23 Hodinkee — A Vintage Watch Nerd's Critical Dissection of the Rolex Daytona, Part 2] (Paul Boutros, 2013)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-daytona-chronograph-1963-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Daytona] (Erik Slaven, 2024)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-1-the-early-references/ Monochrome — History of the Rolex Submariner, Part 1] (Tom Mulraney, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-submariner-history-part-2-the-55xx-1680references/ Monochrome — History of the Rolex Submariner, Part 2] (Tom Mulraney, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-gmt-master-and-gmt-master-ii-1955-2024-iconic-traveller-watch-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-from-1953-36mm-1016-14270-114270-214270-124270-in-depth-review/ Monochrome — The History of the Rolex Explorer] (Frank Geelen, 2024)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-rolex-explorer-ii-adventure-watch-gmt-1655-16550-16570-216570-226570-in-depth/ Monochrome — In-Depth: The History of the Rolex Explorer II]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-explorer-14270-perfect-youngtimer-watch-vintage-corner/ Monochrome — Youngtimer Case Study, the Rolex Explorer 14270] (Frank Geelen, 2020)
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/rolex-explorer-214270-vs-previous-214270-review-history-rolex-explorer/ Monochrome — Rolex Explorer 214270 In-Depth Review] (Brice Goulard, 2016)
* [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-explorer-reference-points Hodinkee — A Comprehensive Collector's Guide To The Rolex Explorer I] (Jon Bues, 2022)
* [https://www.watchtime.com/brands/watches/tracking-the-rolex-daytona-a-53-year-history WatchTime — Tracking the Rolex Daytona: A 55-Year History]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/rolex-john-player-special-paul-newman-daytona-ref-6241/ Revolution — The Rolex "John Player Special" Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6241] (Bob Ridley, 2017)
* [https://www.acollectedman.com/blogs/journal/rolex-pre-daytona-forgotten-classic A Collected Man — Is the Rolex Pre-Daytona a Forgotten Classic?] (Russell Sheldrake, 2020)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/why-i-bought-the-rolex-cosmograph-daytona-reference-116520/ Fratello — Why I Bought The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Reference 116520] (Ben Hodges, 2021)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-14060m/ Fratello — Rolex Submariner 14060M Review]
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/rolex-submariner-114060-review/ Fratello — Rolex Submariner 114060 Review] (2019)
* [https://www.fratellowatches.com/ceramic-bezel-close-up-of-the-rolex-gmt-master-ii-ref-116710ln/ Fratello — Ceramic Bezel close-up of the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116710LN]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/auctions/ecatalogue/2018/important-watches-n09952/lot.252.html Sotheby's — Submariner Ref 6536/1, Stainless Steel Automatic With Bracelet, Circa 1957]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/buy/25e5416b-f436-484a-834e-1ba10a9dfc69/lots/9a553d3f-0450-465f-b767-7f1946a7bfc0 Sotheby's — Submariner Ref. 6538, Stainless Steel With 4-Line Tropical Dial, Circa 1958]
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra

Reference:oyster-perpetual

2026-08-11T16:52:35Z

Admin: Add 1006/1008 to hub table as unconfirmed siblings per editorial decision

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex Oyster Perpetual}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex Oyster Perpetual — Reference Guide to Every Model & Year | BezelBase
|description=The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the founding line the case, crown and self-winding rotor all trace back to. From the 1930s early-Oyster references through the classic 4-digit line of the 1960s-70s and the 1950s flat-caseback generation. Family hub for every published plain-OP reference — Bubbleback and Air-King have their own hub pages.
|keywords=Rolex, Oyster Perpetual, family, history, references, 1002, 1018, 6098
|image=Oyster Perpetual family hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex Oyster Perpetual family
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

The Oyster Perpetual is the reference point every other Rolex sports and dress line borrows from — the waterproof Oyster case (1926) and the self-winding Perpetual rotor (1931) combined into one plain, no-complication watch. This page covers the lineages that carry the Oyster Perpetual name directly and have not split into their own hub: the early manual-wind Oyster of the 1930s-40s, the 1950s flat-caseback generation that closed out the Bubbleback era, and the classic 4-digit line of the 1960s-70s that the modern Datejust and Oyster Perpetual both descend from. [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] and [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] are close relatives on the same case architecture and have their own family hubs.

== References in scope ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Reference !! Production !! Movement !! Notes
|-
| [[Reference:2136|2136]] / [[Reference:2574|2574]] / [[Reference:3139|3139]] / [[Reference:3359|3359]] / [[Reference:4220|4220]] || 1930s–1940s || manual-wind || Early Oyster / Oyster Royal / Speedking generation, before the Perpetual rotor became standard across the line
|-
| [[Reference:6098|6098]] / [[Reference:6085|6085]] / [[Reference:6084|6084]] / [[Reference:6564|6564]] / [[Reference:6580|6580]] || c.1950–1955 || cal 1030 || The flat-caseback generation that closed out the Bubbleback era. 6085 is the precious-metal, honeycomb-dial sibling of 6098; 6084 is the transitional "Semi-Bubbleback" case profile; 6564 is the 18k gold example with early "Brevet" patent marking; 6580 fills out the steel honeycomb-dial spread. A separately attested reference, 6567 (gold, fluted bezel), is a probable sibling on the same platform but not independently confirmed
|-
| [[Reference:1002|1002]] / [[Reference:1003|1003]] / [[Reference:1005|1005]] / [[Reference:1007|1007]] / [[Reference:1018|1018]] || 1959–mid-1980s || cal 1560 then 1570 || The classic 4-digit line, organised by bezel: 1002 smooth, 1003/1007 engine-turned, 1005 fluted (bezel always gold, case in steel or gold). 1018 is the 36mm outlier and the direct case donor for the 1016 Explorer
|-
| 1006 / 1008 || undated, same era || cal 1560/1570 per the Watch-Wiki caliber concordance || Named as siblings of the 1002/1005 pair by the caliber concordance and this family survey; no auction lot or dealer example for either has surfaced, so neither has its own article yet
|}

The 5-digit and 6-digit Oyster Perpetual generations (14203/14233/etc., 116000/116034/etc.) and the post-2020 current-production line fall mostly outside the pre-2020 discontinued focus here; individual references are admitted case-by-case as research surfaces real collector demand.

== Where it sits across Rolex ==

The Oyster Perpetual is the case and movement donor for both the [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] (34mm, non-chronometer, entry tier) and the [[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] (36mm, chronometer, EXPLORER dial text) — the 1018's 36mm case is shared with the 1016 Explorer, and the 5500 Air-King's case middle carries a period-correct inside "1002" stamp from sharing tooling with the Oyster Perpetual line.

== Related families ==

* [[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] — the entry-tier branch that split off the same case architecture and never rejoined.
* [[Reference:bubbleback|Bubbleback]] — the earlier curved-caseback generation this line's flat-caseback references replaced.
* [[Reference:explorer|Explorer]] — the 36mm sibling built on the 1018's case.

== Shared references ==

* [[Reference:Serial-numbers|Serial numbers by year]] — date any Oyster Perpetual from its serial
* [[Reference:Movements|Movement reference]] — the calibers used across the line
* [[Reference:Bracelets|Bracelet & clasp guide]] — bracelet types, end-links, and clasp date codes

== Sources ==

* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra

[[Category:Oyster Perpetual]]
[[Category:Family Hub]]

Reference:5504

2026-08-11T16:23:23Z

Admin: Fact fix: attribute disputed 5504 case size (36mm vs Watch-Wiki/dealer 35mm) per hard rule 6

{{DISPLAYTITLE:Rolex 5504 Air-King}}
{{#seo:
|title=Rolex 5504 Air-King — 36mm Explorer-Case Super Precision | BezelBase
|description=The 5504 is the 36mm Explorer-case Air-King — 1957/58 to 1963/64, Cal 1530, "Super Precision" dial, the connective tissue between the 5500 (34mm) and the 1016 Explorer (36mm). 3-6-9 Explorer dial with AIR-KING text. Tropical, honeycomb, and underline-transitional sub-variants documented at major auction.
|keywords=Rolex, 5504, Air-King, Super Precision, Cal 1530, 1016 Explorer sister, 3-6-9 dial
|image=Ref 5504 hero.webp
|image_alt=Rolex 5504 Air-King 36mm
|type=Article
|og_type=article
|published_time=2026-05-02T03:26:37Z
|modified_time=2026-08-04T00:12:48Z
|robots=index,follow,max-image-preview:large
}}

[[Reference:air-king|Air-King]] -> '''5504'''

The 5504 is the 36mm version of the Air-King. It launches in 1957 alongside the 34mm 5500 and runs roughly through 1963/64 — about seven years of parallel production where Rolex offered the Air-King in two case sizes side by side. The 5504 wears the same case architecture as the 1016 Explorer and the 6610 that precedes it: 36mm steel Oyster, smooth bezel, acrylic crystal, Cal 1530. What separates the 5504 from its 1016 sister is dial text and chronometer status. The 1016 says EXPLORER on the dial and runs a chronometer-rated Cal 1560/1570; the 5504 says AIR-KING and runs a non-chronometer Cal 1530. Robb Report's framing is exact: "the 36mm Air-King 5504 was basically an Explorer I with a different dial and hands."

That positioning makes the 5504 the connective tissue across the steel sport line. It pulls the Air-King line up from 34mm to 36mm; it pulls the Cal 1530 lineage from the 5500 across to the Explorer-class case envelope; and it sets up the dial-swap question that runs through every 3-6-9 5504 catalogued at major auction. One specialist dealer asserts that gilt 3-6-9 Explorer-dial 5504s were produced only in 1958 — implying that later-cased 3-6-9 5504s started life as standard AIR-KING dials and got Explorer-dial swaps during service. Other dealers don't corroborate the strict 1958 cutoff. Both readings are on the public record, and the variant-completeness rule means both go in the article.



[[File:Ref 5504 hero.webp|thumb|right|250px|alt=Rolex 5504 Air-King 36mm|Rolex Air-King 5504, 36mm Super Precision, silvered dial with applied indices, c.1958]]

== Core facts ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! detail
! value
|-
| reference
| 5504
|-
| family
| Air-King
|-
| common name
| "the 36mm Air-King," "the Explorer-case Air-King," "the Super Precision 5504"
|-
| production
| 1957/58 to 1963/64 — Rescapement and Marcus Siems' secondary attribution read 1957 launch alongside 5500; Marcus Siems' primary attribution and Robb Report read 1958 launch; latest documented examples cluster mid-1963
|-
| case
| 36mm × ~43mm L2L stainless steel Oyster, smooth bezel (Watch-Wiki and one specialist-dealer source instead give 35mm)
|-
| crystal
| acrylic plexiglass, domed
|-
| crown
| Twinlock screw-down
|-
| movement
| Cal 1530, automatic, 25 → 26 jewels (running update), 18,000 vph, ~44h reserve, butterfly rotor, Breguet overcoil
|-
| chronometer
| no — "SUPER PRECISION" dial text (rare "PRECISION" examples on lower-grade-adjusted movements)
|-
| dial text
| "AIR-KING" + "SUPER PRECISION" (canonical) or "OYSTER PERPETUAL AIR-KING" + "PRECISION" on later production
|-
| bracelet
| 19mm Oyster — period-correct 7205 rivet (early) → 7206 rivet (mid-1960s) with 58 or 80 end-links; later service 78360
|-
| caseback
| screw-down threaded Oyster
|-
| sister
| 5500 (34mm same Cal 1530 — the long-run classic Air-King) and 1016 Explorer (36mm same case envelope, EXPLORER text, chronometer-rated Cal 1560 then 1570)
|-
| predecessor
| 6610 Explorer (1955–59, Cal 1030, same 36mm case architecture)
|-
| successor
| line absorbed into 5500 + 1016 by 1964 — no direct 5504 successor
|}


== Where it sits in the line ==

The 5504 sits across three reference lineages simultaneously, and its identity depends on which lineage frames it. From the Air-King line: the 5504 is the 36mm bigger sibling to the 5500, running in parallel from 1957/58 through 1963/64. From the Explorer line: the 5504 wears the 1016 Explorer's case envelope, the 6610's 36mm Cal 1030 architecture brought up to Cal 1530, and the dial-language conventions that define the Explorer family — except for the AIR-KING text. From the steel-sport line: the 5504 shares its Cal 1530 architecture with the early 5512/5513 Submariner, the mid-1960s 5500 production, and the early 1016.

The cleanest way to place the 5504 is as a market-segmentation reference. Rolex's late-1950s catalogue offered the AIR-KING name at two case sizes and the EXPLORER name at one. The 34mm 5500 was the entry-tier Oyster for buyers who wanted a Rolex but didn't need a chronometer-rated movement. The 36mm 5504 was the same proposition at a larger case size — bigger, more visible, but still entry-tier price and still without COSC certification. The 1016 Explorer ran in parallel at the same 36mm case size with chronometer certification and the EXPLORER name, addressing buyers who wanted the technical specification rather than the catalogue tier. Marcus Siems' regional reading suggests the 5504 was dual-marketed: black-dial Explorer-style examples to the UK market, brighter-dial Air-King-style examples to Canada — same reference, different positioning per geography.

The architectural relationship to the 1016 is close enough that some collectors treat the 5504 as a dial-swap candidate by default. A 5504 with a 3-6-9 Explorer dial and Mercedes hands is mechanically indistinguishable from a 1016 except for the dial text and the movement caliber — and even the caliber distinction (Cal 1530 vs Cal 1560/1570) requires opening the caseback. Authentication on a 3-6-9 5504 has to lean hard on the dial-side originality verification rather than on case or bracelet evidence.

The 5504 retires by 1963/64 as the Cal 1530 phases out across the broader Rolex line. The 5500 absorbs the Air-King name forward; the 1016 carries the 36mm Explorer line forward. The 5504 has no direct successor — Rolex's catalogue moved past the dual-case-size Air-King strategy and consolidated on the 5500 alone for the 34mm Air-King through 1989.


== Production outline ==

The launch year is contested. Rescapement and Marcus Siems' secondary attribution read 1957; Marcus Siems' primary attribution and Robb Report read 1958. The earliest documented 5504 examples cluster at 1957/58 serials — Sotheby's 2020 lot 364 (case 372,245) is dated c.1958, and Eric Wind's documented 5504 examples sit in the 371,xxx case range with 1958 attribution. 1957/58 is the launch window rather than a single year. The reference launches alongside the 5500 in the broader 1957 Air-King catalogue refresh.

The retirement is firmer at 1963/64. Documented examples cluster at serial 949,xxx (mid-1963), and Marcus Siems cites case numbers in the 950,xxx range as late-production. No 5504 dated post-1964 has surfaced in the auction record. The retirement is driven by the Cal 1530 phase-out across the Rolex catalogue — Aggregator coverage of the Cal 1530 transition dates the changeover beginning 1963, and the 5504 rolls off in the same window. The 5500 absorbs the Air-King line forward.

Total production output is not published. The 5504 is scarcer than the 5500 — shorter production window (about seven years vs the 5500's 32), smaller market position (the 36mm Air-King was always the secondary Air-King to the 34mm), and modest profile in its day relative to the Submariner and Daytona. The reference surfaces at major-house auction more frequently than the 4925 / 6552 / 14000 / 14000M / 114200 because of its 1016-adjacency and its scarcity premium, but less frequently than the 5500.


== Movement notes ==

The 5504 runs Cal 1530 — the same caliber that powers the early 5500 production, the early 1016 Explorer, the early 5512/5513 Submariner, and the broader steel-sport line through the early 1960s. 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), approximately 44 hour power reserve, butterfly rotor, Breguet overcoil hairspring. Jewel count is 25 in the early production and 26 in later examples (running update across the line, consistent with the Cal 1530 generation as a whole). The full caliber breakdown lives at [[Reference:5500#movement-notes|the 5500 movement notes]].

Dial text on most 5504s reads "SUPER PRECISION" — the Cal-1530-era marketing tier that sits below the chronometer-rated OYSTER PERPETUAL OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED CHRONOMETER text the 1016 Explorer carried. Some 5504s carry the simpler "PRECISION" designation, typically on movements adjusted to a lower grade. The 5504's "Super Precision" line is the most-cited example of the Air-King-era marketing distinction: the same Cal 1530 movement, adjusted to the same Bienne or Geneva Observatory standard, gets either chronometer paperwork (1016 → "OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED CHRONOMETER" dial) or sub-chronometer paperwork (5504 → "SUPER PRECISION" dial). The mechanical hardware is the same; the catalogue tier is different.

A small number of late-production 5504 examples are catalogued with Cal 1560 in dealer copy, which notes both Cal 1530 and Cal 1560 across the run. This may reflect service-replacement movements rather than factory-original Cal 1560 5504s — the Cal 1560 is the chronometer-rated 1016 Explorer caliber, and a 5504 with an original Cal 1560 movement would be unusual. A documented Cal-1560 5504 is suspect for service-replacement until factory documentation surfaces.

The 5504 was never COSC chronometer rated. Even the Super Precision examples carry the "Super Precision" line rather than the chronometer text, and no 5504 is documented in the auction record with the Officially Certified Chronometer designation. The architectural choice to keep the 5504 at the sub-COSC tier, despite the Cal 1530 being the same architecture as the chronometer-rated 1016 Cal 1560 sibling, is the central catalogue-positioning decision that defines the reference.


== Case and construction ==

36mm × approximately 43mm L2L stainless steel three-piece Oyster — case middle, threaded caseback, threaded crown. Watch-Wiki's Air-King history reads the case smaller, describing the 5504 as a "larger 35 mm Air-King for export markets" rather than 36mm; one specialist-dealer listing gives the same 35mm figure. The 1016 Explorer case-architecture match and the documented 19mm-lug bracelet fitments support the 36mm reading, so this article treats 36mm as the primary figure and flags the 35mm reading as a documented disagreement. The case envelope is shared with the 1016 Explorer and the preceding 6610 Explorer; the 5504's distinctness from those references is dial-side and movement-side rather than case-side. Lug width is 19mm, consistent with the 1016 Explorer / 5500 / 6610 architecture and with the documented period-correct bracelet fitments (7205, 7206, later 78360). Some sources read the 5504's lugs as 20mm — Robb Report and one specialist-dealer listing both note 20mm — but the bracelet-evidence (7206 rivet with 58 end-links is a 19mm fitment, documented on Eric Wind's documented 5504) reads firmly at 19mm. The 20mm reading is an editorial error.

The case is steel-only across the production. No precious-metal, gold-capped, or two-tone 5504 surfaces in the auction record. The bezel is fixed and steel and smooth across all surfaced examples — no coin-edge or fluted bezel variant is documented. The crystal is acrylic plexiglass, domed; sapphire-crystal arrives on the Air-King line only with the 14000 in 1989, well after the 5504's retirement.

The crown is Twinlock screw-down — the two-gasket sealed crown patent Rolex introduced in 1953 and standardized across the steel-sport line through the late 1950s. Drilled lugs are present on early 5504 production, consistent with the broader 19mm-lug Rolex sport convention through the 1980s.


== Dial map ==

The 5504 carries a wide documented dial map for a reference of its short production window. Six configurations surface in the major-house and specialist-dealer market, with the marquee 3-6-9 Explorer-dial variants pulling the auction record toward 1016-gilt territory.


=== Silvered AIR-KING SUPER PRECISION ===

The canonical 5504 dial. Silvered satin or sunburst ground, applied baton hour markers, alpha hands, "AIR-KING" + "SUPER PRECISION" text. The production-volume configuration on most surfaced 5504 examples. Auction-house and specialist-dealer records catalogue this configuration as the standard.


=== Black gilt AIR-KING SUPER PRECISION ===

Glossy black lacquer ground with gilt printing, applied silvered indices, gilt minuterie chapter ring, "Swiss" only at six (no "T" tritium designation — period-correct for radium-era examples). The marquee Air-King-text variant is documented across specialist-dealer records, with a c.1963 example serving as the strongest anchor. Trades at a premium to silvered configurations.


=== 3-6-9 Explorer dial with AIR-KING text ===

The 5504-as-Explorer configuration. Black or gilt ground with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals at three / six / nine, baton or dagger indices at the other hours, Mercedes-style hour and minute hands. AIR-KING text on the dial rather than EXPLORER. Mechanically and visually a 1016 Explorer except for the dial text and the Cal 1530 movement.

The same source asserts that gilt 3-6-9 Explorer-dial 5504s were produced only in 1958 — implying that later 3-6-9 5504s "most likely started life as Air-Kings" with Explorer-dial swaps applied during service. Other dealers do not corroborate the strict 1958 cutoff. Both readings are on the public record. The variant is the 5504's marquee collector configuration regardless of which reading prevails on a specific example, and provenance papers / case-and-dial-period verification are essential at this sub-variant tier.


=== Honeycomb / clous-de-Paris gilt ===

Rare. Eric Wind, writing at Wind Vintage, documents a 1958-cased 5504 with a honeycomb (clous-de-Paris) finely-textured gilt dial, paired with a 1966 7206 rivet bracelet on 58 end-links. The honeycomb 5504 sits in the same dial-finish family as the contemporary 6305 Datejust, the 6202 Turn-O-Graph, and the 6298 Bubbleback honeycomb examples. Period-original honeycomb 5504s are scarce; service-replacement honeycomb dials applied to standard 5504 cases also circulate.


=== Tropical chocolate-gilt ===

Documented across multiple dealer sources — gilt black dials aged through decades of UV exposure and chemical aging to a uniform chocolate-brown patina. The tropical conversion on a 5504 carries the same premium logic as on a tropical 1016: even fade, original applied indices, no dial-print degradation. Tropical 5504s sit at the top of the reference's market range when authenticity holds.


=== Underline transitional dial ===

A short-window radium-to-tritium changeover variant from approximately 1962 to 1964. A small horizontal line printed under the model text indicates the luminous material changed from radium to tritium. A documented 1963 5504 carries an underline + tropical chocolate gilt + chapter ring + Swiss-only configuration — the convergence of three rare features on a single example. Underline 5504s sit at premium to standard configurations even before the tropical patina is added.


== Bracelets, end-links, and clasps ==

19mm Oyster across the production. Period-correct delivery configurations: 7205 rivet with end-link 57 or 58 on early 5504s through the early 1960s; 7206 rivet with end-link 58 or 80 on mid-1960s production. Eric Wind's documented 5504 carries a 7206 rivet bracelet dated to 1966 (clasp date code) — service-era period-correct fitment paired with a 1958-cased head, common across the 5504-era Air-Kings. A documented May-1962 5504 carries a later 78360 Oyster, illustrating the service-era replacement pattern.

The bracelet platform is shared exactly with the 5500 and the 1016 — the 5504 doesn't carry a 36mm-specific bracelet. Authentication on the bracelet rests on the case-and-clasp date verification rather than on the bracelet reference number alone; most surviving 5504s wear bracelets that post-date the 5504's own production window by a decade or more.


== Special branches ==


=== 3-6-9 Explorer-dial Air-King ===

The 5504's marquee collector configuration. Documented across the specialist-dealer market. The dating contradiction (one specialist reading: gilt-Explorer 5504s only made in 1958; other dealers: 3-6-9 5504s across the production window with later examples being dial-swap candidates) defines the variant's market. Provenance papers and case-and-dial-period verification are the central authentication anchors.


=== Dual-market Air-King vs Explorer regional split ===

Marcus Siems' regional reading — repeated on RolexForums and WatchUSeek collector threads as longstanding consensus — frames the 5504 as dual-marketed by Rolex with bright-dial AIR-KING examples directed to Canadian and broader Commonwealth markets, and black-dial EXPLORER-style examples directed to UK markets. The mechanism appears to be regional dealer ordering rather than separate factory configurations: the same 5504 reference, the same case and movement, with AIR-KING-text or EXPLORER-style dials specified per market at order. The pattern surfaces in surviving 5504s' geographic provenance and in the regional preference for one dial configuration over the other in catalogue evidence.


=== NAAFI distribution ===

The 5504 surfaces in references to Navy, Army and Air Force Institutes (NAAFI) distribution — the British forces commissary that supplied watches to UK military personnel through the 1960s. No documented engraved-caseback NAAFI 5504 surfaces in the auction record, but the distribution channel is referenced in collector literature. The NAAFI 5504 is a soft branch — distribution rather than commemoration, no military issue or crest dial.

The Domino's Pizza, Tiffany retailer-signed, government-crest (Saudi / UAE / Bahrain / Kuwait), and Joyería Riviera retailer-signed 5504 configurations are not documented. The Domino's program (1977 onward) post-dates the 5504's retirement entirely; the Tiffany-signed dial program existed across the period but no 5504-specific Tiffany lot has surfaced; the government-crest commissions are 5500-era. Their absence is consistent with the 5504's short production window and modest contemporary market position.


== Historical market and auction record ==

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Sale !! Lot !! Year !! Reference details !! Result
|-
| Sotheby's London Important Watches || 364 || 2020 || 5504 c.1958, case 372,245, movement 41,321, black gloss radium dial || Est. GBP 10,000–18,000, hammered in 12,600–15,120 band
|-
| Bonhams London || — || 2018 || 5504 c.1959 || Sold GBP 13,750
|-
| Bonhams London || — || 2022 || 5504 || GBP 4,000–5,000 band
|-
| Hong Kong sale || — || 2019 || 5504 || HKD 68,750 (≈ USD 8,848)
|}

The 5504 trades primarily at the GBP 4,000–15,000 band depending on dial configuration, condition, and originality. Sotheby's London 2020 lot 364 sits at the upper edge of the standard-dial market; the marquee 3-6-9 Explorer-dial and tropical configurations push pricing into the GBP 15,000–25,000 range when provenance holds. Specialist-dealer asks on the underline-tropical configuration sit in the high four-figure to low five-figure band for the strongest examples.

Phillips Geneva sales include 5504 lots in their broader Rolex sales (Phillips XIII, XIV, XVIII, V, VI, VIII per the Phillips archive) but no headline-essay 5504 has surfaced — the Explorer-dial 5504 has not yet broken out at Phillips at the level of a gilt 1016 Explorer. The Sotheby's and Bonhams lots are the documented major-house anchors.


== Authentication ==

The 5504 is 60+ years old and most surviving examples have been serviced multiple times. The dial restoration window of the 1980s–2000s caught many 5504s; original dials with even minor period patina (silvering loss, applied-marker shadowing, gilt-print degradation) are the originality positive, while perfectly clean dials should be examined as potential restorations.

The dial-text question is the cleanest single architectural anchor. The 5504 dial reads either "AIR-KING SUPER PRECISION" (canonical) or "AIR-KING PRECISION" (lower-grade-adjusted variant). A 5504 with a "SUPERLATIVE CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED" dial is service-replacement (likely a later Cal 1560-era dial applied to the 5504 case during service) and is not original. A 5504 with an EXPLORER dial text is a dial swap and is not the same watch as a 1016.

The 3-6-9 Explorer-dial 5504 needs particularly careful authentication. The "produced only in 1958" specialist reading, if accurate, narrows the period-original 3-6-9 5504 examples to a single year of production. Later cased examples with 3-6-9 dials are dial-swap candidates. Provenance documentation tying the dial to the original sale, period photographs of the same example, and movement-dial-and-case period consistency are all essential at this sub-variant tier. Without that documentation, a 3-6-9 5504 reads as 50/50 whether it's period-original or a dial-swap.

The case stamp inside the caseback should read 5504. Roman-quarter date codes (II.58, IV.62, etc.) inside the caseback should be period-consistent with the 1957-1964 production window. The case-number band runs roughly 350,000–950,000 across the documented production. A 5504 with a case number outside this band — particularly anything above 1,000,000 — is a service-replacement caseband or a misattribution.

The movement should be Cal 1530. A 5504 with Cal 1520 (5500-era variant) or Cal 1560 (1016 Explorer caliber) is service-replacement and not original-delivery. The Cal 1530's butterfly rotor and Breguet overcoil are visible inside the case and provide cleaner architectural-anchor verification than the dial-text reading alone.

The bracelet usually doesn't help. Most surviving 5504s wear bracelets that post-date the 5504's own production window. Authentication should focus on the dial, the case stamp, and the movement; the bracelet is supplementary evidence at best.

== Related references ==

* [[Reference:4365|Air-King 4365]]
* [[Reference:4499|Air-King 4499]]
* [[Reference:4925|Air-King 4925]]
* [[Reference:5500|Air-King 5500]] — 34mm Oyster (1957–1989)
* [[Reference:5501|Air-King 5501]]
* [[Reference:5502|Air-King 5502]]

See also the [[Reference:air-king|Air-King family index]], the [[Reference:explorer|Explorer family index]], [[Reference:Movements|movement reference]], [[Reference:Bracelets|bracelet & clasp guide]], and [[Reference:Serial-numbers|serial numbers by year]].

== Sources ==
* ''The Vintage Rolex Field Manual'' — Colin A. White, Morning Tundra
* [https://www.rescapement.com/blog/rolex-air-king-history Tony Traina, "Rolex Air-King History: The Forgotten King", Rescapement]
* [https://monochrome-watches.com/history-of-the-rolex-air-king-the-underrated-pilots-watch/ Erik Slaven, "History of the Rolex Air-King, the underrated pilots watch", Monochrome Watches, 2025]
* [https://goldammer.me/blogs/articles/rolex-airking-origin-history-and-design-evolution Marcus Siems, "Rolex Air-King Origin History and Design Evolution", Goldammer]
* [https://robbreport.com/style/watch-collector/lists/complete-guide-to-the-rolex-air-king-1945-to-present-1235881849/ "The Complete Guide to Rolex Air-King Watches From 1945 to Present", Robb Report]
* [https://revolutionwatch.com/kens-klassics-rolex-air-king/ Ken Kessler, "Kens Klassics Rolex Air-King 5500 and 5504", Revolution Watch, 2020]
* [https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/auction/2020/important-watches-3/rolex-air-king-super-precision-ref-5504 "Rolex Air-King Super Precision Ref 5504 c.1958 Sothebys London Important Watches Lot 364", Sotheby's, 2020]
* [https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/london-watches-2018/ "Rolex Air-King Ref 5504 c.1959 Bonhams London", Bonhams, 2018]
* [https://www.windvintage.com/rolex-air-king-reference-5504 Eric Wind, "Rolex Air-King Reference 5504 36mm Honeycomb Dial", Wind Vintage]
* [https://bulangandsons.com/products/rolex-air-king-5504 "Rolex Air-King Super Precision Ref 5504 Tropical Underline Dial w3509", Bulang and Sons]
* [https://www.craftandtailored.com/products/rolex-air-king-5504 "Rolex Air-King Ref 5504 Explorer Gilt 3-6-9 Dial 1958", Craft and Tailored]
* [https://beckertime.com/blog/rolex-caliber-15201530/ "Rolex Caliber 1520 and 1530", Beckertime]

[[Category:Air-King]]
[[Category:Explorer]]